Aquarium and Pond Care with EcoBio-Block

Useful, interesting and must-know articles about aquarium and pond care

How to Set Up and Use a Hospital Tank

Quarantine tank with EcoBio-Stone S

When one of your fish falls ill it may only be a matter of time before the disease spreads to your other tank inhabitants. For this reason it is extremely important for you to keep an eye out for the early symptoms of disease. If you catch the disease early enough you will be able to quarantine the sick fish in a hospital tank to ensure a speedy recovery and to prevent your other fish from falling ill. A hospital tank, or quarantine tank, is a fairly basic set-up and it is generally easy to maintain.

Setting Up the Tank

Because you will usually keep just one fish in the hospital tank at a time it does not need to be large – 10 gallons is a sufficient size. The bottom of the tank should be kept bare of gravel or other substrate to facilitate easy cleaning and to prevent the build-up of disease-harboring bacteria. Do not over-decorate the tank – simply provide a few plants or an overturned terra cotta pot to give your fish places to hide. Hospital tanks have very few requirements other than clean water and adequate filtration but you need to choose wisely when selecting a filter for your tank. Power filters that have a low setting are generally recommended for hospital tanks because they provide both chemical and mechanical filtration without creating a current powerful enough to disturb your sick fish.

Using a Hospital Tank

When you notice the symptoms of disease beginning to manifest in your tank, set up your hospital tank as quickly as possible. Use as much water from the original tank as you can when filling the hospital tank in order to decrease the amount of stress your fish experience in switching tanks. Use an in-tank thermometer to monitor and control the water temperature in the tank and administer whatever medications your fish require on a regular basis.

Other Tips for Hospital Tanks

If you have a large tank with many fish, it may be wise to set up a permanent hospital tank. By doing this you can rest assured that if one of your fish happens to fall ill you will not be putting the rest of your fish at risk by delaying the removal of the sick fish from the tank. A hospital tank can also be used as a quarantine tank when you bring new fish home from the pet store. To prevent the spread of disease you should always quarantine new fish for at least seven days. This will ensure that the new fish do not pass an existing illness on to your other fish.

A quick and easy way to ensure that the water in your hospital tank stays clean and clear is to use an EcoBio-Stone. EcoBio-Stones are made from porous volcanic rock and cement block and they are infused with nutrients and beneficial bacteria designed to keep your tank healthy. Once introduced into your tank, these beneficial bacteria will multiply and work to speed up the nitrogen cycle, keeping your tank water clean and clear. Not only do EcoBi0-Block products help keep your tank healthy, they also reduce the amount of routine maintenance required.

No matter how careful you are in caring for your aquarium fish, the chances are good that you will eventually experience the outbreak of some kind of disease. By acting quickly in setting up and utilizing a hospital tank, however, you can effectively curtail the spread of this disease. Learning how to set up a hospital tank, and then putting that knowledge to use, is a simple way to ensure that your sick fish recover quickly and your other fish do not fall ill.

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December 28, 2011 at 4:32 PM Comments (0)

Setting Up Your Freshwater Aquarium for the First Time

new aquarium

Setting up a new tank

After purchasing an aquarium and bringing it home, many novice aquarium hobbyists mistakenly believe that the most difficult task is behind them. It can be very hard, after all, to choose just one tank from among a wide variety of choices in aquarium sizes and shapes. Once you get your new aquarium home, however, the real work begins. If you take time to make the necessary preparations and research the proper procedure, setting up your first freshwater aquarium will be less of a hassle and your job will be much easier down the line when it comes to routine care and maintenance.

Selecting a Location

Place your aquarium on top of a sturdy cabinet or aquarium stand and position it somewhere you will be able to enjoy it. When selecting a location for your tank, keep in mind that if you place it in direct sunlight you will have problems with algae growth. It is also important to consider accessibility when selecting a location for your tank so that routine cleaning and maintenance does not become difficult.

Basic Set-Up Tips

1. Rinse the aquarium along with any gravel, plants and decorations in warm tap water. When rinsing gravel or substrate, stir the gravel well and flush it with water until the overflow runs clear.

2. Attach your aquarium background to the back of the tank using clear tape.

3. Pour the clean gravel into the tank then fill it about 2/3 full with warm tap water. Place a flat rock in the center of the tank and pour the water in over the rock to avoid scattering the gravel.

4. Check the water temperature in the tank as you fill it using an in-tank thermometer, adding warmer or cooler water as needed to keep the temperature between 70° and 76° Fahrenheit.

5. Set up your power filter according to the manufacturer’s instruction, but do not plug it in.

6. Mount your submersible aquarium heater on the wall of the tank, but do not plug it in. Leave adequate space around the heater to ensure even distribution of heated water and do not rest any decorations up against the heater itself.

7. Install your decorations and plants in the aquarium. Position the tallest plants near the back of the aquarium and place smaller plants up front.

8. Fill the tank the rest of the way with warm tap water and add your choice of dechlorinating solution, following the instructions on the bottle to determine how much to use.

9. Plug in your heater and filter and adjust them to the appropriate settings. Read the instructions included with your filter to determine whether you need to fill the filter with water before plugging it in.

10. Wait at least 24 hours before adding any fish to your aquarium. This will give the tank temperature time to stabilize and the nitrogen cycling process time to begin.

Other Tips for a Healthy Aquarium

In order to keep your aquarium running properly you need to establish a base of beneficial bacteria – a process often referred to as cycling the tank. Adding a few fish to the tank at a time is one of the most common ways to begin building a colony of beneficial bacteria but installing an EcoBio-Stone to your tank can help you to jumpstart the process. EcoBio-Block products are made of porous volcanic cement block infused with beneficial bacteria that will multiply upon being introduced into your tank. These bacteria help to speed up the nitrogen cycle, keeping the water in your tank clean and clear for your fish to enjoy and reduce the frequency of necessary water changes.

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October 26, 2011 at 2:48 PM Comments (0)

How To Maintain a Clear and Healthy Saltwater Aquarium

The health of your saltwater aquarium is critical to the survival of your fish and corals. While feeding your fish, some tasks like observing the quality of the water, topping off the water, and checking the water temperature should be done on a daily basis. There are also other tasks you must do on a regular basis to ensure the health of your saltwater aquarium.

How often you will need to perform extensive cleaning will depend on what type of filter system you have.  Filter systems such as Jaubert/Plenum and true Berlin Live Rock don’t require much maintenance, but systems such as canister filters and Wet-Dry Trickle require much more attention.  The specific factors that will determine how often you need to clean your aquarium tank include the following:

  • The amount and type of food you feed to your fish.
  • The type of filtration that you use.
  • The biological load that is on your filtration system.
  • Whether you use tank janitors or not.
  • How often you use toxin-reducing products like phosphate and nitrate.

Monitoring weekly water tests will also help you determine whether you need to perform cleaning tasks on your tank more often or less often. One way to simplify your maintenance needs is to use EcoBio-Block products. Made of natural zeolite, the blocks contain beneficial bacteria which live and multiply in the block. Dispersing into the water, they break down organic waste and keep your tank clear and healthy. Then all you need to do is observe and take note of certain conditions in your tank to determine how often you need to clean it.

In regards to your fish, you should observe the following:

  • Their color, eyes, and fins.
  • Their movements in the tank.
  • How much food they are consuming.
  • Whether they appear to have parasites or not.

In regards to your invertebrates, observe the following:

  • Their movements in the tank.
  • How much food they are consuming.

Observe the following when it comes to your corals:

  • Their color.
  • Whether they are open or not.

Here is what to note about the water in your tank:

  • The movement of the water.
  • The clearness of the water.

In regards to the tank janitors:

  • Their effectiveness in cleaning the aquarium
  • Their activity.

When observing the substrate:

  • Check for the presence of algae.
  • See if there is debris, such as uneaten food and detritus.

You should be testing your water parameters at least once per week.  If you notice slight changes in some of your tests, that is usually normal, but keep an eye on them to make sure that they are not the start of some trends that could affect the health of your aquarium.

What are the water parameters you should be keeping track of?

  • Temperature
  • pH
  • Alkalinity
  • Salinity
  • Ammonia
  • Nitrite
  • Nitrate
  • Calcium
  • Iodine
  • Phosphate

You should know what the Normal Sea Water (NSW) values are (consult a table that lists these, such as the one found here:  http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/planasystem/ig/Guide-Charts–Tables–Diagrams/Major-Elements-in-Saltwater-.htm) and what the target water test levels (again, consult a table that lists these, such as the one found here:  http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/planasystem/ig/Guide-Charts–Tables–Diagrams/Target-Water-Values.htm).

There might be times when you decide that a major cleaning of your aquarium must be done. It takes a fair amount of time to do it properly, but after you’ve done it a few times, you’ll be able to lessen the time it takes to do it each time.

You should start from the inside of your tank and work outwards. Place some towels on the floor so that any water that spills out does not damage your floor (remember that the water is saltwater, not freshwater, which can increase the chances of the water damaging your floor). Scrub the algae from the submerged equipment and tank walls.  Siphon the clean substrate. Change the water. Top off the new water with new (pre-mixed) saltwater. Test the parameters that were not normal originally and record the new results.  Add supplements if necessary to adjust the levels to appropriate readings.Next, you should deal with your filtration system. Remove debris from the bottom of your sump. Either clean or change the material of the mechanical filter. Check your adsorbents and see if they need to be cleaned or even changed. You should clean your biological filter material by rinsing it in saltwater. Empty your protein skimmer’s collection cup and adjust the water and air flow as needed. You should clean around your light bulbs and fixtures. Replace old bulbs as necessary.

You should make sure that your pumps are free of blockages, cleaning the filters as necessary. You should also check the hose connections to make sure that they are operating at their full capabilities. You should also clean the salt creep (or salt crystals that are behind when saltwater is spilled somewhere and the fresh water evaporates).

Check the amount of debris in your mechanical filter to get a better idea of whether you need to do major cleanings more or less often. When a mechanical filter becomes clogged and overworked, contaminants will either go around the filter material or be forced through the filter, which will only further decrease the effectiveness of your filter.

By keeping a record of your observations, you can adjust how often you perform major maintenance tasks on your saltwater aquarium tank. By following the advice in this article and keeping a regular maintenance schedule, you can have and maintain a healthy saltwater aquarium tank.

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May 13, 2011 at 11:04 AM Comments (0)

How to Start Your Pond in Spring After the Winter Thaw

Koi PondAs winter starts to fade and spring starts to come into view, those who maintain ponds are eager to bring those ponds back to life.  However, before this can occur, there are some things you need to take care of first.

One thing that you need to do is to carefully inspect your pond.  There could be winter damage to any of the components that keep the pond in good working order or even damage to the pond itself.  You should note these occurrences of damage and repair them before bringing your pond back to life.

You also need to clean your pond.  No matter how meticulous you are in keeping your pond clean during the spring, summer, and fall, chances are that the winter season has caused your pond to be in less than pristine condition.  Even with leaf netting, chances are high that at least a few leaves have gotten into your pond and settled at the bottom of it.  You need to scoop these leaves out manually or with a pond vacuum.

Spring is certainly the time to start your pump back up after it’s been off during the winter season.  When the water temperature has reached 50 degrees, it’s advisable for you to restart your pump.  Most people will just turn on their pumps and then leave them unattended, such as leaving their homes to run errands, etc.  This is not wise, as you want to make sure that the pump is functioning as it was when you turned it off the previous fall.  You should spend some time at your house after you turn it on and ensure that the pump is functioning as it should.

You should give your filter system a complete cleaning before starting it again.  You should also increase the number of bacteria in your pond to increase the speed of the clean-up process and to maintain the health of your pond over the course of the upcoming pond season.  A good way to increase the number of bacteria in your pond is by using EcoBio-Block® nsM or EcoBio-Block Wave.

You should test the condition of the pond water, specifically the nitrite and ammonia levels.  If either of these readings is higher than zero, perform partial water changes to get both readings down to zero.

You should check on the condition of the fish in your pond.  Spring is the time of year when fish are most susceptible to health problems and diseases; gram-negative bacteria are one of the greatest problems, as they can cause severe infections in your fish.  There are products on the market to help minimize their risk to these infections, and it’s important that you try to keep them from becoming infected, as it’s very difficult to eliminate the infections once they have them.

Another major problem faced by fish in the spring are internal worms.  There are types of medicated fish food to help protect from these worms.  Pond salt can also help ward off diseases and pathogens.  Safe, natural treatment products can also help to ensure the strong health of your fish as spring begins.

Wait until the water temperature is consistently above 50 degrees before you begin feeding your fish again.  You should feed them a type of food that is formulated for the spring and fall seasons and continue to give them this food until the water temperature is consistently in the 60s.

You should not forget about the plants that you brought into your house from the pond at the end of last season.  As the water temperature reaches the 50s, you should begin fertilizing them.  If they are getting too crowded in the pots they were placed in, you should divide them to ensure that they reach their maximum growth and flowering potential.

Spring is the time of year when many things come back to life, including your pond.  By using the information above, you can ensure that your pond returns to its active form quickly and without any major problems so that your fish and plants can once again populate your pond without incident.

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March 1, 2011 at 3:32 PM Comments (2)

How To Winterize Your Pond

A common misconception many people have regarding winterizing your pond is that running water will somehow hurt your fish.  It’s important to keep in mind that fish are cold-blooded creatures and that they will adapt to whatever the water temperature is. In addition, running water freezes more slowly than still water, so you can run your waterfall well into winter as long as you take some precautions to make sure that your waterfall or filter outlet flow does not freeze and divert water out of the pond.

To help your fish survive during the winter, start introducing a vitamin and mineral supplement to their diet during the fall. This will help them to build up their immune systems and add the needed fat in order for them to make it through their hibernation cycles.

If the water temperature drops below 50 degrees, do not feed your fish. They go into a kind of hibernation and their bodies cannot absorb food at this time.

Many people think that a pond de-icer (heater) will help to protect their fish during the winter. A de-icer can help with the buildup of carbon dioxide under the surface of the ice that forms on the water.

A better option for winterizing your pond for your fish is to use an aerator/circulator decontaminator unit.  By using it all year round, you will greatly enhance the overall biological process by keeping algae at bay, plus you will continuously supply dissolved oxygen to the pond during the winter via the air bubbles that the decontaminator unit provides.

If you are using the EcoBio-Block line of products to help prevent ammonia build-up and to increase the presence of good bacteria that will keep the water clean and healthy for your fish, rest assured that the bacteria in the block will simply hibernate along with your fish until warmer weather when it will start producing again just when your pond is starting to need it.

Tropical plants will not make it through the winter if they are left in your pond. When the water temperature falls under 60 degrees Fahrenheit, they should be removed. Depending on the species of plant, you could keep them in your house as house plants or consider them as annuals and purchase new ones to fill your pond the following spring.

If you have an out-of-the pond biological filter, you can let it continue to run until there is a chance that the outlet water flow can freeze and divert water from the pond. If/when you shut it down, let the water drain via the siphon effect or via the drain plug.  Only clean the leaves and dead plant matter from it. If you have an in-the pond biological filter, remove it before winter begins. If you have a non-oil filled pump, you can leave it on during the winter so long as it is well under where the ice will form.

During the winter, you should check to make sure that everything is going well. If your pond has completely frozen over, NEVER break the ice by pounding on it. Keep in mind that the decontaminator unit is still providing oxygen and removing toxicants for your fish under the ice. To reopen the hole in the ice, either use a de-icer or pour hot water over a section of the ice until the hole reopens.

Preparing ahead of time to winterize your pond for your fish and plants can ensure that they will survive the winter and that the pond will be in optimal condition for them when they come out again in the spring.

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November 11, 2010 at 11:00 AM Comments (0)