Aquarium and Pond Care with EcoBio-Block

August 2010, saw the implementation of a pilot program to treat wastewater in the suburbs of Ulaanbaatar in Mongolia. EcoBio-Blocks were installed in 3 out or 6 wastewater treatment plants to deal with problems created in infrastructure and basic services which are being overwhelmed with rapid urbanization and population increase. These wastewater lakes, located about 50 kilometers outside of the city were selected by the Ulaanbaatar Water and Sewerage Authority due to their proximity to the wastewater sources and the fact that the water is being discharged back into the main Tuul River without treatment.

EcoBio-Blocks are attached to the floats

EcoBio-Block had been introduced to the Expert Meeting group in Asia in October of 2009, generating strong interest among the participants who found great potential in the simple, sustainable (expected to last 5-7 years), low maintenance technology.

Taking into consideration various factors such as shape, size, depth, water conditions, bottom conditions, location of lake and the climate of Mongolia, a custom built design was developed by the manufacturer, Koyoh Co. in Japan. Floats were created to enable the Blocks to activate just under the surface of the waste water with sufficient levels of oxygen for the natto bacillus bacteria to be constantly active.

There has been regular testing done in the waters after implementation, and after a period of one month, an improvement in water quality of 30% has been found in various parameters of the water.

Scene of final EcoBio-Block setup

Sponsored by KCAP, Knowledge Management Center for Asia and the Pacific, a United Nations Habitat initiative “linking environmental issues with sustainable solutions”, pilot projects are being conducted including “feasibility studies, demos, and experiments”.
These projects are being developed with unique technology or know-how which appear to have significant potentially effective solutions to specific urban issues being faced in Asian cities.

by Ruby Bayan

Community Fish Tank

Here’s a candid question from my friend Bob: “I just got a 20-gallon tank and was thinking about putting in about a dozen Neon Tetras, six to eight Mollies, a Plecostomus and perhaps introducing two to three Angelfish afterwards. Is this an acceptable plan?”

My answer was, “Bob, you’re inviting disaster into your aquarium! You will be defying at least four major guidelines in the book of ‘good fishkeeping’!”

Defiance 1: “The one-inch-per-gallon rule is baloney!”

Although not a strict rule, the one-inch-of-fish-per-gallon-of-water guideline is often a takeoff point for fishkeeping hobbyists aspiring for a stable bioload. However, factors like efficient filtration, fast-growing fishes, and aggressive or territorial breeds totally overhaul this “rule” giving rise to setups with more than one inch of fish per gallon, or with just a pair of two-inch fish for a 25-gallon tank.

In Bob’s planned 20-gallon setup, 12 Neons, 8 Mollies, 1 Pleco, and 3 Angels, even if they’re all less than an inch each, will surely overload his tank habitat, no matter how efficient his filtration is. But let’s say that on top of a truly efficient filter, he can be diligent enough to make regular water changes, his next problem will be what water parameters to maintain.

Defiance 2: “What natural habitat? I’ll give them their natural habitat!”

One of the primary objectives of fishkeepers is to provide a habitat that is closest to what the fishes have in the wild. The community that Bob is looking at putting together cannot occur naturally because the fishes he has chosen do not thrive in the same water conditions.

Although all the chosen fishes can be made accustomed to a common water temperature (around 77 degrees F), Neons prefer water that is slightly soft, with pH between 5.0 and 7.0. Mollies, on the other hand, live in slightly hard water with pH of 7.5 to 8.5.

In other words, either the Neons or the Mollies will suffer stress and eventually fall ill if brought together in one community tank because the water composition is outside the range ideal for them.

So, if Bob removes the Mollies from the equation and maintains a water composition ideal for the rest of the fishes, will the Neons, Pleco, and Angelfish be fine together? The answer is, again, “no.”

Defiance 3: “They don’t look aggressive to me!”

Angelfishes belong to the notoriously cranky group of cichlids. Highly territorial and potentially aggressive, Angels (an oxymoron?) are known to be “stealth” attackers. Swimming casually and almost in a delicately gentle manner, they can snap at a prey in a flash and swallow whatever fits their mouths. Full-grown Angels are known to feast on Neons.

So, maybe Bob can chuck the idea of adding Angels later on. Will his tank be safe now with the dozen Neons and one Plecostomus? Unfortunately, the Pleco may pose a whole new problem.

Defiance 4: “They’re just sooo cute!”

The Plecostomus is one of the fastest growing catfishes in captivity. A “cute” three-inch Pleco can double in length in six months and grow to a “horrendous” adult size of close to two feet in a couple of years. Their phenomenal growth is accompanied by their equally phenomenal rate of excretion that can easily overwork standard filtration systems. A Pleco will, therefore, be okay in a 20-gallon tank only in its first few months as a juvenile.

In other words, Bob’s 20-gallon tank is down to just a dozen Neons. That’s no fun, right? Well, a 20-gallon tank can’t really support a lot of fishes, and frankly, losing some to not having an acceptable plan is my definition of “no fun.”
Bob can still have a fun tank by choosing a combination of community fishes that are attractive together and thrive in a habitat that will remain stable indefinitely.

Here’s one suggestion: to join his Neons, he can add a pair of Rams (Ramirezis may be cichlids but they’re one of the more sedate ones), and instead of the Pleco he can choose a pair of Corys (corydoras) or Otos (otocinclus) that remain small even as adults.

Add to that some diligent monitoring, regular water changes (or better yet, an EcoBio-Block that conditions water so that changes are hardly necessary), and efficient equipment, and Bob can be well on his way to implementing a truly acceptable plan.

Healthy aquarium with EcoBio-Block L

One of the first lessons a fishkeeping hobbyist learns is that preparing a good habitat for aquatic pets is all about breeding beneficial bacteria. The famous “New Tank Syndrome” or “Cycling” of a new aquarium setup basically describes the period when bacteria colonies are initially propagated in the aquatic habitat. In effect, the overall health of a fish tank and its inhabitants relies heavily on the steady and sustained growth and proliferation of bacteria.

Two types of beneficial bacteria are required to keep ideal water conditions in a fish tank. The first type is called “nitrosomonas,” which are aerobic bacteria that convert deadly ammonia (generated by fish waste and decaying food) into another toxic substance called nitrites. The second type is called “nitrobacter,” which converts the toxic nitrites into less harmful nitrates. Microbes in gravel in established tanks can process nitrates into nitrogen gas which then dissipates (which in large volumes will also stress the fish); can be absorbed by aquatic plants (and algae) as fertilizer; or can be removed from the tank through regular partial water changes.

In a new fish tank, ammonia must be present to start the nitrosomonas colonies, but the ammonia levels should be just enough to feed the bacteria because excesses will harm the fish. The same is true with the nitrobacter – they proliferate in the presence of nitrites but until there are enough colonies to process the nitrites, excesses will cause distress to the fishes. Therefore, the tank’s ability to sustain more fishes improves as the colonies of beneficial bacteria increase.

Because the speed of aquarium cycling depends on how quickly bacterial colonies grow, fishkeeping experts suggest several ways to rapidly proliferate bacteria. The most common method is to migrate bacterial colonies from disease-free established aquariums by moving gravel, décor, or filter media to the new tank.

If migrating established bacterial colonies from existing tanks is not feasible, there is always the “canned bacteria” option. Preserved nitrosomonas and nitrobacter bacteria can be purchased from reputable fish hobby vendors. Some providers claim that their bottled bacteria colonies can jumpstart the cycling process as well as revitalize a failing or overstocked aquarium.

Another bacteria-proliferation option is the EcoBio-Block Family Products. These porous volcanic stones are mineral-rich and imbedded with a type of beneficial bacteria called “bacillus subtilis natto” from Japan. These bacteria, which multiply every half hour, perform the nitrification process required for a stable fish tank, effectively degrading organic matter and making the tank clear and odor-free. Bacteria-rich EcoBio-Block products are used to speed up cycling and maintain a clear and healthy tank for years.

Undoubtedly, setting up a fish tank involves not just acquiring an aquarium setup but also growing and sustaining large colonies of beneficial bacteria to render the water habitable to aquatic pets. Whether the bacteria colonies are from a friend’s tank, the bottled variety, or the EcoBio-Block strain, as long as they are fed, aerated, and prolific, they will do their job to ensure the health and success of the fish community in their environment.
copyright©2009 ONEdersave Products LLC

The body of every fish is completely covered by a mucus layer known as the slime coat. A fish’s first – and best – defense against disease and parasites lies in the slime coat; it acts much like a human’s top layer of skin by keeping out harmful substances and regulating the fluids within the body. The problem is, this slime coat gets damaged very easily and many beginning aquarists have no idea how crucial it is to keeping fish healthy. While this coating can be somewhat protected and replenished by products that contain aloe, simple treatments will never be enough if you do not take care of the underlying cause of the damage.

The first major cause of damage is simple mechanical damage. Whenever you net a fish, or a fish gets it in its head to attack another fish or it brushes past an artificial plant, that is when the slime coat gets damaged. Often it is only minor scrapes that can heal easily provided no other slime coat hazards are present.

The second major cause is stress. This can be stress from moving, from water changes, or the worst kind…the stress of living in inappropriate water conditions. Make sure your temperature does not vary widely throughout the days and nights; ideally there will be no more fluctuation than about two degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that your tank is well-aerated; as long as the water surface is moving you have oxygen exchange, but if the fish are often seen at the top “gasping” for air you will need to find a way to further aerate the aquarium.

Of all the inappropriate water conditions, an improperly cycled tank is the most deadly. Coming in second place – an aquarium in which too many fish were added at once. The result: ammonia in the water. Ammonia is the extremely toxic by-product of fish waste and decaying uneaten food, and even at trace levels it will swiftly dissolve the slime coat and kill the fish. To avoid this, be sure to allow a full 36-day cycle to be completed before you add fish, use filter media or a handful of gravel from an established tank, or use a commercial product such as EcoBio-Block that will introduce the necessary beneficial bacteria to the aquarium.

Do regular partial water changes to keep nitrate levels down and remove waste and other organic material, as well as replenish essential minerals in the water that the fish need to survive. If you do not have the time or physical ability to do 2-4 water changes per month, a combination of a strong mechanical filter and an EcoBio-Block can significantly cut down the number of water changes needed. The EcoBio-Block leaches the necessary minerals into the water for up to two years in addition to adding in the beneficial bacteria, so be sure to keep it in the tank if you have one!

As long as you keep your water parameters within healthy limits, handle your fish with care (make sure to soak your nets before using them, dry fibers are much more damaging) and add an aloe-containing product to the aquarium after stressful events or whenever a fish is sick, your aquatic critters should keep a beautiful, healthy slime coat that will greatly reduce their risk of disease and parasites.

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