Aquarium and Pond Care with EcoBio-Block

Even the most novice aquarium hobbyist is likely to understand the importance of routine water changes in keeping an aquarium clean and healthy. Water changes are not only essential for keeping algae growth and aquarium fish diseases at bay, but they are also important in maintaining stable water chemistry. If the water chemistry in your tank changes drastically, your fish could become stressed or even die as a result. In order to avoid such a severe consequence it is wise to understand not only the need for regular water changes but also the proper way to go about performing them.

Why Water Changes are Necessary

Like all living creatures, aquarium fish produce waste and this waste typically sinks to the bottom of the tank where it accumulates with other forms of organic debris like decomposing plant matter and uneaten fish food. Over time, this debris begins to break down and produces ammonia, a substance toxic to fish. Though the beneficial bacteria in an aquarium help to convert ammonia into less harmful substances, these bacteria can only do so much. Water changes are necessary to keep toxins in the tank under control – if you never performed a water change, the chemicals would simply build up in the tank water, making it unsuitable for aquarium fish. Water changes are also needed to replace the water lost through evaporation.

Proper Water Changing Procedure

gravel vacuuming

Though the size and frequency of necessary aquarium water changes may vary slightly according to the species of fish in the tank, most tanks require a weekly water change of 10% to 15% of the tank volume. These regular water changes should be accompanied by a larger 25% water change once a month. To perform a water change most effectively, use a gravel vacuum to siphon the substrate in your tank – this method will remove built-up detritus from the bottom of your tank along with the dirty tank water. If you were to simply scoop out a few gallons of water from the top of the tank you might succeed in diluting some of the toxins present in the water but the build-up in the substrate of the tank would continue to produce ammonia which would eventually lead to a decline in water quality.

Once you have removed the desired amount of water from the tank, the next step is to replace it with clean water. For freshwater tanks, regular tap water can be used as long as it has been dechlorinated. Aquarium hobbyists use a variety of methods to remove chlorine from tap water but the easiest and most effective method is to use a liquid water conditioner. Water conditioners work instantly to remove chlorine and chloramine from tap water, thus making it safe for aquarium fish. If you have a saltwater tank, your water changes may not be so quick or easy. You must mix the saltwater at least 24 hours before you perform the water change and it is best to add the water to the tank through a sump system rather than pouring it directly into the tank.

Tips for Water Changes

To make your water changes easier, select a gravel vacuum proportional to the size of your tank. If you have a small tank, a simple tube-shaped vacuum should be sufficient. For larger tanks, however, gravel vacuums that have wider heads are helpful. Though you cannot get away without ever performing a water change if you want your tank to stay clean and healthy, there are a few things you can do to reduce the frequency of necessary water changes. Adding an EcoBio-Stone to your tank is an easy way to keep your tank water fresh and clean and reducing maintenance needs. EcoBio-Stones are made from natural zeorite and special cement, and they can be added directly to the tank where the beneficial bacteria with which the stone is infused will immediately get to work. These bacteria will establish a colony in your tank, working to maintain the nitrogen cycle so the water in your tank stays clean and the water quality remains high. If you can maintain high water quality in your tank, you will find that you need to perform water changes less often.

Planted Nano Aquarium

For the fish-lover, there is nothing as beautiful and peaceful as an aquarium. It brightens up any room in which it is placed, as well as giving the owner a low-maintenance pet. However, not everyone has the space for a large tank. For these people, there is the option of purchasing a smaller aquarium, anywhere from 1 to 15 gallons. Although this size of tank, otherwise known as a “nano aquarium”, is harder to maintain, it is still a good choice for many people. They just need to remember a few simple things. The most important thing to keep in mind about a small aquarium is not to let it get overcrowded. Keep the fish small and don’t put too many in the tank. Otherwise, it will be difficult to maintain the water quality. Also, take into account the fact that smaller amounts of water change temperature more quickly, which can be stressful for fish. Therefore, try to place your nano aquarium somewhere that keeps a constant temperature year round. And remember that even a small tank can weigh a lot when full, so put it somewhere where it won’t need to be moved. In a small tank, water quality can decrease very quickly. It is therefore important to test it every day and change 10-20% of the water as often as twice a week. While doing these changes, vacuum a section of the gravel. If you are busy or just don’t want the hassle of changing your water so often, you could try EcoBio-Stone S. Simply place the stone in the water and it will keep your water clear and healthy for years with beneficial bacteria, which keep the water in the aquarium perfectly balanced by breaking down the toxic ammonia and nitrite from fish waste and uneaten food, and re-supplying trace minerals from the stone. Additionally, be sure to change your filter regularly or else it may leak toxins into the water. If you do notice an issue, attend to it quickly. In a nano aquarium, small problems multiply rapidly. If you wait even one day to take care of them, you may find that your entire system has crashed Another important factor to be considered with a small tank is the oxygen level. One way to keep it high is to agitate the surface of the water with a small filter. For even more oxygen, put live plants in your tank instead of artificial ones. However, be sure to choose ones that don’t require a lot of light or you may find your water temperature increasing too much. Finally, do not overfeed the fish in your nano aquarium. This can cause poor water quality and place stress on your fish. If you remember to do all of these things and use a time-released water maintenance product such as EcoBio-Stone you will be able to enjoy keeping fish even if you have limited space.

The beautiful and popular Betta fish are the second most abused fish.

Siamese fighting fish, or betta fish, rank amongst some of the most popular aquarium fish because of their low maintenance requirements and flashy good looks. Sadly, they rank only behind goldfish as the most abused aquarium fish in the world.

What are Betta Fish?

If you’re not familiar with bettas, these are small-medium fish that come in about every color of the rainbow. Males of most varieties have long, flowing fins but both males and females of good breeding will have vivid, colorful bodies. These fish are often sold in small cups or divided plastic barracks in pet stores because of the fierce territorial behavior of the male toward other males of its species. Contrary to popular belief, however, a single male goes very well in a community aquarium with tank mates that will not nip its fins.

The fish you’re undoubtedly familiar with seeing in pet stores are the well-known veiltail bettas with the male’s long spade-shaped tails, but there are also crowntails, half-moons, deltas, super deltas, plakats and more. The plakats are a variety that sports short, rounded tales in both genders.

What do Bettas Eat?

If you’re familiar with bettas you’re probably familiar with the popular betta vase which pairs a betta fish and a peace lily or hardy vine in an attractive display. Unfortunately, many people misunderstand this setup, thinking it’s completely self-contained and that the betta will eat the roots of the plant. The problem is, bettas are carnivorous.

Like all fish, bettas require a variety of foods to be healthy, but they are also notoriously picky eaters. If you purchase a fish from a reputable breeder they will often already be used to eating various foods, but if they’re from a fish farm (like most pet store fish) they have probably only been fed one type of food their entire life and may need some encouragement to try new things.

The packaged betta pellets in stores work fine as a grade staple food, namely Hikari Betta Bio-Gold or another good pellet with low ash content (filler). Live or freeze-dried blood worms are generally a favorite, and live foods such as micro-worms, vinegar eels or grindal worms are easy to keep and readily accepted by most bettas. Bettas have small stomachs, so they’ll likely only eat about five pellets or 3-5 small worms at a time and appreciate twice-daily feedings.

What Environment do Bettas Require?

Since bettas are kept in very small quarters in pet stores and so-called “betta tanks” of miniscule proportions are sold all over the world, many people believe that their fish will do just fine in these quarters. Sadly, this is how it earned its rank of second-most-abused fish in the world.

While a betta can survive for a time in small amounts of water due to the fact that they breath air from the surface of the water instead of the dissolved oxygen, reducing the need for proper aeration, it is exceedingly difficult to keep these tiny quarters clean and the betta will not thrive in this confined area.

In order to be healthy the betta requires at least one gallon of water – and that’s total water volume, not the total a container can hold before gravel and decorations are added – as well as very clean water and good filtration. Because their fins snag and tear easily, they should only have real or silk plants rather than plastic plants. They prefer to have plants situated so that they can rest on top of them and be able to reach the surface of the water.

Water changes of about 50% have to be done about every other day for a single betta in one gallon, though the number of water changes goes down the more water volume you get. Alternatively, there is a product in the EcoBio-Block family called EcoBio-Stone S that will help reduce the number of water changes in your betta’s tank by introducing the beneficial bacteria that breaks down ammonia and nitrites from the fish’s waste and uneaten food into nitrates, as well as keeping the proper levels of essential minerals in the water at all times. There are indications that suggest EcoBio-Block also promote the growth of anaerobic bacteria that convert nitrates into gases that can evaporate rather than needing to be removed manually (such as through water changes).

Bettas are not strong swimmers so they prefer a filter with minimal current. A small sponge filter paired with an aerator works great for smaller setups and ensures that there is enough dissolved oxygen in the water to keep the beneficial bacteria healthy. Additionally, make sure you have a secure cover on the tank because bettas are strong jumpers and can get out of surprisingly small holes.

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Green water is a nasty problem in many aquariums; one day you have a gorgeous, crystal-clear tank and the next day you wake up to an aquarium of opaque green. This condition is caused by a free-floating algae bloom, and it really can go from no problem at all to being able to see absolutely nothing inside the aquarium overnight. So what do you do about it?

As with most things, the best cure is prevention. Green water occurs when an aquarium is overstocked or has too much decaying organic matter in it. This process creates an excess of nitrates and other nutrients that feed the algae. Once all the right environmental factors are in place, the algae takes over quickly and mercilessly. The key is to keep nitrates down and the water parameters healthy for the fish.

You can start by ensuring you’re not over-feeding your fish. A fish in the wild can never be certain where its next meal is coming from, so its metabolism has adapted into that of an opportunistic eater. Healthy fish will always be hungry, so you can not simply feed them until they stop eating. Give your fish just enough that it takes them about two minutes to eat all the food twice a day (three times if you have juveniles); if you see uneaten food get to the bottom, cut back a little.

Next, make sure you have good mechanical filtration and a well-aerated tank. For additional preventative, you can use a time-released water maintenance product such as EcoBio-Block. These blocks last up to two years apiece and ensure that the water in the aquarium stays perfectly balanced by breaking down the toxic ammonia and nitrites from waste and excess food, as well as re-supplying essential minerals in the water as they’re used up by the fish.

Many aquarists believe that direct sunlight is the main cause of green water and this is not true. While direct sunlight should be avoided because of its effects on the water temperature, algae can not bloom without quite a bit of excess nutrients in the water. It is true that algae can not grow without light as well, but the algae requires very little light for its photosynthesis; once it’s started, any tiny bit of natural light that reaches the aquarium will be sufficient to continue its growth.

Live plants are great for helping get rid of excess nitrates and there are many hardy varieties that will use up a lot of the spare nitrates that algae blooms feed on. In most cases you’ll want to keep an eye on the plants so dead pieces can be removed before they start to decay, however this is not a problem if you have an EcoBio-Block or adult P. bridgesii (a type of apple snail commonly sold in pet stores), or “brigs”. Brigs grow to about the size of golf balls, lay their eggs above the water line so population control is easy, and as adults never eat healthy plants. Be certain you have an adult before you introduce it into a planted tank, though, because the juveniles are still able (and very willing!) to eat healthy plants. If you decide on snails, do a little research first. P. canaliculata, or “canas”, can look very similar to brigs if you aren’t familiar with them, and canas grow to the size of a softball and will always have a voracious appetite for live plants.

Regular partial water changes are required to keep the nitrates down and remove organic material from the aquarium. Again, if you have a time-released product such as EcoBio-Block this is not necessary, though occasionally stirring your substrate to get rid of potentially harmful gas pockets and to send organic materials through your mechanical filter is recommended. If the water is kept in pristine condition, you will not have a problem with green water.

Finally, once you have green water it is difficult and time-consuming to get rid of. You can begin by restricting light, even covering the outside of the aquarium with paper to keep additional light out, and do a partial water change to get rid of some of the excess nutrients. Note that the water changes in themselves will do nothing to get rid of the algae, it reproduces quickly and can only be gotten rid of through “starvation”. Cut back your fish’s food and leave the tank light off for the duration of the clearing time. It may take a couple of weeks to clear up.

As soon as the tank is clear, immediately take some of the preventative measures outlined above to avoid re-occurrence. I especially recommend ensuring that you have a good mechanical filter, plenty of aeration to keep beneficial bacteria healthy, and a time-released maintenance product to ensure the water is always as close to perfect as possible.

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The body of every fish is completely covered by a mucus layer known as the slime coat. A fish’s first – and best – defense against disease and parasites lies in the slime coat; it acts much like a human’s top layer of skin by keeping out harmful substances and regulating the fluids within the body. The problem is, this slime coat gets damaged very easily and many beginning aquarists have no idea how crucial it is to keeping fish healthy. While this coating can be somewhat protected and replenished by products that contain aloe, simple treatments will never be enough if you do not take care of the underlying cause of the damage.

The first major cause of damage is simple mechanical damage. Whenever you net a fish, or a fish gets it in its head to attack another fish or it brushes past an artificial plant, that is when the slime coat gets damaged. Often it is only minor scrapes that can heal easily provided no other slime coat hazards are present.

The second major cause is stress. This can be stress from moving, from water changes, or the worst kind…the stress of living in inappropriate water conditions. Make sure your temperature does not vary widely throughout the days and nights; ideally there will be no more fluctuation than about two degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that your tank is well-aerated; as long as the water surface is moving you have oxygen exchange, but if the fish are often seen at the top “gasping” for air you will need to find a way to further aerate the aquarium.

Of all the inappropriate water conditions, an improperly cycled tank is the most deadly. Coming in second place – an aquarium in which too many fish were added at once. The result: ammonia in the water. Ammonia is the extremely toxic by-product of fish waste and decaying uneaten food, and even at trace levels it will swiftly dissolve the slime coat and kill the fish. To avoid this, be sure to allow a full 36-day cycle to be completed before you add fish, use filter media or a handful of gravel from an established tank, or use a commercial product such as EcoBio-Block that will introduce the necessary beneficial bacteria to the aquarium.

Do regular partial water changes to keep nitrate levels down and remove waste and other organic material, as well as replenish essential minerals in the water that the fish need to survive. If you do not have the time or physical ability to do 2-4 water changes per month, a combination of a strong mechanical filter and an EcoBio-Block can significantly cut down the number of water changes needed. The EcoBio-Block leaches the necessary minerals into the water for up to two years in addition to adding in the beneficial bacteria, so be sure to keep it in the tank if you have one!

As long as you keep your water parameters within healthy limits, handle your fish with care (make sure to soak your nets before using them, dry fibers are much more damaging) and add an aloe-containing product to the aquarium after stressful events or whenever a fish is sick, your aquatic critters should keep a beautiful, healthy slime coat that will greatly reduce their risk of disease and parasites.

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