Aquarium and Pond Care with EcoBio-Block

Tropical Freshwater Aquarium

When it comes to the home aquarium, many people do not realize that there are more than two options: freshwater or saltwater. These two categories contain a number of different options for the experienced aquarium hobbyist to explore. The tropical community tank is generally recommended for novice aquarium hobbyists but those who have a great deal of experience with fishkeeping may enjoy moving on to the challenge of a coldwater or brackish aquarium. Along with the challenge of a new type of freshwater aquarium come new species of fish, new options for decorations and greater satisfaction.
Tropical Freshwater Aquariums

Many aquarium hobbyists choose the tropical freshwater aquarium because it is relatively inexpensive and easy to maintain. While saltwater tanks require specialized equipment like protein skimmers, most tropical freshwater tanks require only a submersible aquarium heater, filter and lighting. Most of this equipment can be programmed, making it a virtually hands-free system even the most inexperienced aquarium hobbyist can use without difficulty. In addition to these benefits, tropical freshwater fish are relatively easy to find in stores and there is, in general, a greater variety from which to choose in this category than in other categories of freshwater fish.
Coldwater Aquariums

Goldfish are the most commonly recognized species of coldwater fish but certain species of barbs, tetras and danios can tolerate water temperatures in the low 60’s as can guppies, white clouds and loaches. While some of these fish are not as brightly colored as the more popular tropical species, it may be worth it to simplify the aquarium set-up by eliminating the need for heating equipment. Just because an aquarium heater is not necessary, however, does not always mean that coldwater tanks are easier to manage than tropical freshwater tanks. You may need to purchase an aquarium chiller to keep the water temperature low enough for some species and some fish have specific needs that may require extra equipment. Goldfish, for example, have one of the highest waste outputs of any species of freshwater fish and require highly-oxygenated water which may necessitate an extra filter or an aerator.

Adding an EcoBio-Stone or EcoBio-Planter to your coldwater tank is an easy way to help keep a tank full of goldfish clean. EcoBio products are made from natural volcanic stone and are infused with beneficial bacteria. After being introduced into your tank, these bacteria multiply to create a colony of nitrifying bacteria which will help to break down wastes, keeping the water in your tank clean and clear between routine water changes for approximately 2 years.
Brackish Water Aquariums

The word brackish refers to a mix of saltwater and freshwater and it describes the type of aquatic environment found in estuaries, coastal streams and saltwater swamps. When it comes to setting up a brackish tank, the necessary equipment is generally the same as for a tropical freshwater tank – filter, heater and lighting. Where a brackish aquarium differs from a typical tropical freshwater tank is in the tank environment. Brackish aquariums are usually filled with a dark substrate like sand and live plants and driftwood which are the staples of brackish tank décor.

In order to create a true brackish environment, salt must be added to the water to achieve a specific gravity between 1.002 and 1.025 depending on the fish you plan to raise. Some popular species of brackish aquarium fish include swordtails, mollies, loaches, gobies and catfish. While several plants commonly used in tropical freshwater aquariums can survive in a brackish environment, plants like cabomba, vallisneria and mangroves are best-suited for this type of tank. Brackish water aquariums may be more difficult to care for than a simple tropical freshwater tank, but experienced aquarium hobbyists may appreciate the challenge.

If you plan on turning your freshwater aquarium into a saltwater aquarium, you are likely wondering if the equipment you already have can be used to create that saltwater aquarium or if you have to get brand new equipment. We will examine the individual components to see what you can continue to use and what you must replace. First, we will check out the aquarium itself.

Aquariums are not designed only to be used as either a freshwater tank or a saltwater tank; most aquariums can be used for either. The glass or acrylic material that makes up the structure of the aquarium certainly applies to both freshwater and saltwater aquarium tanks. The silicone adhesive that is used in construction is also applicable to both freshwater and saltwater aquariums.

The one main difference between freshwater and saltwater tanks is that freshwater tanks tend to be considerably smaller than their saltwater counterparts. While a 5-gallon freshwater tank can theoretically be transformed into a saltwater tank, small saltwater tanks are often harder to work with, which is why many experienced saltwater aquarists suggest that you use no smaller than a 55-gallon tank for your saltwater aquarium.

Regarding the filtration of your aquarium, filtration is a little more involved when it comes to saltwater aquariums, since biological filtration is an especially critical component in a saltwater aquarium. Freshwater aquarium owners can choose to use a biowheel and box that hangs on the outside of the tank or in a corner of the tank for filtration needs, but a saltwater tank usually needs more filtration than that which these types of filters can provide. While undergravel filter (UGF) set-ups can be used in saltwater aquariums, they can contribute to unwanted nitrate problems in later years, which is why many saltwater aquarium owners prefer wet-dry trickle and canister type filters that have bio-media chambers.

There is no set choice for a filter to be used in a saltwater aquarium; your best bet is to research the various filtration methods and set-ups, than choose the one that you feel will work best for your aquarium.  You can usually help to narrow your decision by deciding whether you will have a fish-only aquarium or a reef tank system, though filters that are used for reef tank systems can also be used for fish-only aquariums, so you can save money and hassle by purchasing filters that will work with reef tank systems even if you only initially plan on having fish in your saltwater aquarium.

Regarding pumps and powerheads, most freshwater pumps can work well in saltwater aquariums, provided that they are rated as safe to use in saltwater. The main difference between freshwater and saltwater aquariums is that saltwater aquariums use more pumps and powerheads to obtain greater movement and circulation in the water. This can be especially beneficial to the health of corals.

Many freshwater aquarium owners use large-sized gravel or rock material to provide the biological filter base. However, this does not work well in a saltwater tank, as the substrate that is used in saltwater tanks should have high natural levels of calcium content that originates in the ocean. One solution that you can use in both freshwater and saltwater aquariums is ONEdersave’s EcoBio-Block® aquarium products. Their EcoBio-Stone™ L works especially well in larger saltwater tanks, as it is made to be used in 16 to 100 gallons of water.

The lighting used for freshwater tanks can work with fish-only saltwater tanks, though the light hood may not stand up well to the corrosive effects of saltwater, plus it will not hold MH, PC, or VHO lighting.  You certainly need to change the lighting if you plan on having a reef system. It is important that you carefully research exactly what you need for your aquarium before heading out to your local fish store so that you don’t buy unnecessary or inadequate equipment.

You will definitely need to change the decorations in your tank if you plan to convert from freshwater to saltwater, as most saltwater fish are grazers, and if you leave decorations that are made of plastic, your saltwater fish could have their digestive tracks shut down from eating such items. You should place either live rock or non-living or synthetic decorative rocks and corals in your saltwater aquarium.

The heater for your freshwater tank will likely suffice for your saltwater tank, provided that it is safe to use in saltwater tanks. You will need to use a different test kit, however, since the chemicals used in freshwater test kits are entirely different from those found in saltwater test kits.

In conclusion, some equipment from your freshwater aquarium will work well with your new saltwater aquarium, but some equipment will have to be replaced. By doing some careful research online and in saltwater aquarium books, along with the information in this article, you should be able to transform your freshwater aquarium into a saltwater aquarium quickly and at relatively little cost.

You’ve spent a lot of money and time picking out the right fish for your aquarium and you think you’ve got it just right. Then you start losing some valuable fish. How does this happen and what can you do to prevent this tragedy?

There can be a lot of reasons why your fish are dying. Generally, it happens when a fish tank is new. It pays to buy an aquarium water test kit to determine how much ammonia, nitrites and nitrates are in the aquarium, and how high or low the pH is. These are the four most important tests for your tank.

In the nitrogen cycle of the fish tank, an important biological cycle, the fish give off nitrogenous wastes when they eliminate and these products break down into ammonia, which is very toxic to most fishes. In aquariums, this nitrogen product can build up into levels that are harmful to your fish. When you measure the ammonia level, it should be negligible.

The nitrogen cycle, is the process of getting rid of ammonia using nitrifying bacteria that convert the ammonia to nitrite and then to nitrate, which is not as hazardous. The cycle goes from ammonia to nitrite to nitrate. These bacteria are present everywhere and establish themselves eventually in your fish tank as soon as the ammonia builds up. It is a slow process, however, and you can lose fish in the meantime.

One way of improving the nitrogen status of your aquarium is to purchase an EcoBio-Block Products that contains the nitrifying bacteria within the block. You rinse the block and soak it in chlorine free water over night before placing it in your tank. Normally, in a few weeks or so, you can have your ammonia levels drop followed by drops in nitrite levels. You can safely put your fish in then and expect that they will survive.

The other thing is to take a couple of hardy and cheap fish and put them in your tank. Don’t overfeed the fish. More food means that more ammonia will build up. For freshwater fish, try some zebra danios or some barbs. For saltwater tanks, use damselfish. Don’t use feeder fish for your tank as they can introduce unwanted diseases in your tank. The initial cheap fish you put into the tank get the nitrogen cycle going and you can then add more delicate and expensive fish to your tank.

Use your test kit to determine the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate level in your tank and use this as a guide for how healthy your tank is. It takes time for the bacteria to develop unless you are using a EcoBio-Stone to speed up the nitrification process.

Poor pH can also be a cause of a loss of fish. The pH is a measure of how acidic or how alkaline a fish tank is. Ideally, the pH should be around 7.0, which is “neutral”. However, fish can generally tolerate pH of 5.5 to 8.0. You can get a test strip to measure the level and if you need to change it, look at ways to change the pH slowly.

If your water contains buffers, you will not be able to change the pH very easily. Remember, too, that fish can tolerate a wide range of pH levels but do not tolerate sudden changes in pH.  Sometimes it’s better to leave the pH alone as long as your fish are thriving.

If you still think you need to adjust the pH, one way to lower it slowly is to add some driftwood to your fish tank or to the tank. A cleaned off seashell or coral skeleton will gradually increase the pH of your aquarium. The downside of both these solutions is that they will stain the color of the water brown or yellow for quite a while, but it will alter the pH in a safe way.

Maintain your tank well and you can have a healthy, happy fish population.

Saltwater Aquarium

Many newcomers to the world of keeping saltwater fish are wondering about the proper accessories for saltwater tanks. A lot depends on what kind of saltwater tank system you prefer. Do you want a reef tank system, a system with live rock and fish, or a system with just fish? Some accessories are considered to be basic; you would need them no matter which kind of system you chose.

Let us assume that you have already chosen the aquarium in the size you prefer. You know where you are going to place it in your home, and you have a suitable stand that can bear the weight of your tank when it is filled with water. You will need to decide what sort of lighting you are going to use. A hood for the top of the tank usually holds the lighting system you have chosen. Remember that for saltwater tanks, the lighting must be very similar to that of the sun. Otherwise, marine fish and coral will not do well.

Gravel, aragonite sand, crushed oyster shell and crushed coral are popular choices as a substrate for saltwater tanks. Since calcium is so important in maintaining the pH in the water of a marine tank, choosing a substrate like gravel, coral or oyster shell that can provide this mineral is a wise choice.

The plants chosen for saltwater tanks are generally live ones. Plastic plants, while attractive and hardy, cannot take a constant bath in salt water without a change in appearance. Live plants that are known to grow in salt water should be chosen. Live rock and coral are often considered as part plant, part decoration by the aquarium hobbyist. These choices grow and need nutrients just as plants do. The shapes and colors of coral are as beautiful a decoration as anyone could want.

Your aquarium filter should be chosen with both the size of the tank and the type of water that will be used in it in mind. A canister filter is a good choice. Saltwater tanks often prefer a filter that includes a protein skimmer. An aquarium heater will be needed as well. Choose a heater that is intended to use around 3 watts per gallon. You will need a thermometer, preferably digital, though some in the fishkeeping hobby do prefer the standard type of aquarium thermometer.

You will need a synthetic salt mix in order to make your salt water, available at any store that sells supplies for marine fish. Do not use regular table salt! A few buckets are handy to have to mix the salt water. In fact, five gallon buckets are a fine accessory for helping you maintain your tank. They can be used to hold plants, substrate, even fish if necessary for a short time. The proper mixing of the water is crucial for the saltwater tank. Just as the quality of the water that marine fish are used to in their native habitat is constant, so must the water that you mix and add to the tank also be.

A powerhead is an excellent choice as one of the proper accessories for saltwater tanks. Powerheads duplicate the wave action of the ocean. As so many of the marine fish sold today are wild caught, having conditions that match the ocean’s is crucial for success.
One of the best accessories possible for your saltwater tank is an EcoBio-Block. This product keeps the aquarium water clean and clear, and releases beneficial bacteria and nutrients into the water to help deal with the organic waste matter. It helps keep the ammonia, nitrate and nitrite levels down, and keeps the pH at a constant level. The EcoBio-Block can help you maintain your tank with very little work.

Ammonia Test

What are some of the common problems with aquarium water chemistry? Many times, beginners to the aquarium hobby are uncertain as to what steps they need to take in order to get their tank off to a good start.

No matter how clear and sparkling that water may look in your new aquarium, do not be fooled! Remember that looks can frequently be deceptive. Many new owners think that it could not possibly hurt to go ahead and add some fish to their new aquarium setup once they have added the water. After all, it looks so clean and pure!

Wrong. That water you just poured into your tank is full of certain gases that can be toxic to your fish in the right amount. Compressed carbon dioxide gas is present in most city or tap water, along with chlorine, fluoride, and perhaps even some sulfides as well. There are also minerals, heavy metals, and chemicals in this water.

Some of these substances are added by the facilities that treat water in order to make it safe for human consumption. What is safe for a human can be quite unsafe for a fish. You must wait for the water in your aquarium to stabilize before you can add any fish to it. Often, people are advised to place one lone feeder fish in the tank in order to get the beneficial bacteria started up, cycle the tank, and also to see if the water quality is good enough for this fish to live in. While this seems like a good plan, you may be bringing diseases into your tank by doing so. There are much better ways to accomplish this task.

Test kits are available to tell you the condition of your aquarium water. Make sure you get the proper test to match your aquarium water, as the tests for freshwater and saltwater tanks can be a little different. You will want to test your tap water before proceeding to test the tank water. That first test will give you a baseline of sorts. Knowing the parameters of your tap water and comparing them to the parameters of your aquarium water can help you to decide if you need to do a partial water change or adjust the water parameters.

What sort of parameters do these kits test the water for? Normally, a simple water test kit will check the pH, Nitrite, Nitrate, Carbonate hardness and General hardness. You can also purchase kits that will test for ammonia. Tanks can be tested for KH or GH as well with a simple home kit. You can purchase products at your pet store to make the proper adjustments.

It does not take much ammonia to be toxic to fish, so the beginner hobbyist should strive to keep the levels in the tank at or near zero. However, during cycling, you will get high ammonia readings until there is enough bacteria in the tank to breakdown the ammonia into safer by-products. During this time, water changes of 10 –20% are suggested to keep the ammonia levels down. Different fish varieties need different pH readings, so a normal level will depend on the type of fish you are keeping. At one time, the only way to test your aquarium water was with a series of test kits and/or test strips. Whenever you suspected a problem, you would need to perform these tests on a daily basis. With the busy lifestyles so many of us have, it could be difficult to schedule this testing.

Fortunately, there is a solution that will save the hobbyist time, effort, and even some cash! The EcoBio-Block family of products can keep your aquarium water safe for your fish. These products contain a good bacteria that can last as long as two years. This bacteria will change ammonia into nitrates, which are safer for fish. Minerals and calcium are added to the water by the block, and the water is kept sparkling clear. Owning and using an EcoBio-Block product is a great way to help you reduce any problems you might have with your aquarium. Common problems with aquarium water chemistry are easily conquered when you are using the right tools.