Aquarium and Pond Care with EcoBio-Block

When it comes to properly maintaining a saltwater tank there are several pieces of equipment you must have. A thriving saltwater tank will require a high-quality filtration system to help remove solid and dissolved wastes from the water column. It will also require a high-powered lighting system, especially if you plan to keep corals in your tank. A protein skimmer may be necessary to remove excess proteins from your tank water and a sump system may be helpful in keeping all of this equipment in order. One piece of equipment that may not be mandatory for keeping a saltwater tank, but proves quite useful, is a UV sterilizer.

What are UV Sterilizers?

An ultraviolet (UV) sterilizer is a device that helps to control microscopic algae, bacteria and parasites in your tank water. This device can generally be attached to your filter system so that filtered water passes through the device as it is being returned to the tank. A UV sterilizer consists of an ultraviolet bulb over which filtered water is passed – the UV light kills off a significant portion of the algae, parasites and bacteria in the water before returning it to the tank. These devices are incredibly useful and, when paired with a high-quality filtration system, they are a very effective means of keeping your saltwater aquarium clean. The best part about UV sterilizers is that it doesn’t require any additional work on your part, other than setting up the device.

Tips and Considerations

Before you go out and buy a UV sterilizer for your tank, you might want to consider the benefits and drawbacks of such a device. One of the main benefits of UV sterilizers is that they are generally very easy to use – many models can be attached directly to standard aquarium filters. These devices also help to prevent excess algae growth and the spread of pathogenic bacteria by killing the cells before they are able to reproduce. Another benefit is that UV sterilizers come in a variety of sizes to fit all saltwater and freshwater tanks – you can even find stand-alone models if your filter system cannot accommodate a traditional UV sterilizer.

Though UV sterilizers are very beneficial in the saltwater tank, you should be aware that these devices only target the free-floating organisms in your tank water – they cannot do anything about algae growing on tank surfaces or bacteria/parasites that have already invaded the bodies of your fish. It is also important to note that UV sterilizers can interfere with certain medications so, if you are treating your fish for disease, you may need to unplug the device. Aside from these drawbacks, UV sterilizers are an excellent device to incorporate into your saltwater tank.

While incorporating a UV sterilizer into your saltwater tank setup may help improve the water quality in your tank, there are other simple things you can do to keep your tank clean. Installing an EcoBio-Stone, for example, is a hassle-free way to boost the biological filtration in your tank to help keep your tank water clean and clear. EcoBio-Stones are made from natural volcanic rock and they are infused both with beneficial bacteria and the nutrients they need to thrive. Once installed in your tank, EcoBio-Stones help to establish and maintain the nitrogen cycle, thus adding to the water-cleaning power of your UV sterilizer.

If you are used to keeping a freshwater tank, making the switch to a saltwater tank can be quite a challenge. Not only do you have to get used to new fish and tank equipment, but you also have to learn about a different set of water parameters. While many freshwater fish species can tolerate minor changes in water temperature or chemistry, some saltwater fish are highly sensitive to changes. Saltwater fish are also very sensitive to the mineral content of tank water. If there is not enough calcium, for example, your fish may not thrive. To prevent this from happening, consider using kalkwasser to maintain proper calcium levels in your tank.

What is Kalkwasser?

Kalkwasser is a solution of calcium hydroxide that has been dissolved in water. It is widely used by saltwater aquarium hobbyists to replenish depleted calcium stores in tank water. As water evaporates from the tank, the calcium level in your tank naturally declines. German for “lime water,” kalkwasser is effective in increasing calcium content in tank water without drastically affecting the pH or alkalinity of the water. This solution may provide additional benefits such as encouraging pink coralline algae growth and improving the buffering capacity of tank water.

Using Kalkwasser

You cannot simply add kalkwasser to your saltwater tank and hope that it has the desired effect. Adding too much kalkwasser to the tank at once can result in significant changes in water chemistry that would likely have a negative impact on your fish. Rather, it is best to add kalkwasser to the tank in small doses over time. To achieve this, saltwater aquarium hobbyists utilize one of two methods. The first method is to add kalkwasser when mixing the saltwater you use for water changes. This method can be effective as long as you mix the water within one day of using it – it may be difficult, however, to achieve the proper dosage.

A more exact method involves the use of a dosing pump or calcium reactor. These devices administer regulated doses of kalkwasser into the tank, often through a drip method, to replace the calcium store of tank water as it is depleted. If you are on a budget, a dosing pump is the more affordable option and you should be able to find them in a variety of sizes to accommodate your needs. If you have a very large or heavily stocked tank, a calcium reactor may be a better choice for you because it will be able to achieve more precise dosages. Regardless which device you choose, you must continue to test and monitor the calcium levels in your tank on a regular basis.

Other Tips and Considerations

Though it is not mandatory for saltwater aquarium hobbyists to use kalkwasser in their tanks, it is certainly an effective means of maintaining high water quality. If you are looking for other simple ways to keep your water quality high and your tank water clean, consider adding an EcoBio-Stone to your tank. These stones are made from natural volcanic rock, infused with beneficial bacteria and the nutrients needed to support them. Once you introduce an EcoBio-Stone into your tank, the bacteria will rapidly multiply and work to establish and maintain the nitrogen cycle resulting in cleaner, clearer tank water. In conjunction with the use of kalkwasser, an EcoBio-Stone is an easy way to maintain the water parameters in your tank.

Left: Nitrite level color chart
Right: Nitrate level color chart

Whether you have a freshwater or saltwater tank, nitrites and nitrates are something you are just going to have to deal with. Both of these substances are by-products of the nitrogen cycle so you can’t avoid having them in your tank but you should do your best to control them. If you let the nitrite or nitrate levels in your tank get out of control, it could have serious consequences for your fish. Luckily, controlling these substances is not a very difficult task – performing a few routine maintenance tasks and installing an EcoBio-Stone in your tank can make a huge difference.

Dangers of High Nitrite/Nitrate Levels

You may already be familiar with the dangers of ammonia poisoning but you may not realize that nitrite and nitrate can be just as dangerous for aquarium fish. In fact, nitrite poisoning is closely linked to ammonia poisoning because high levels of one are often linked to high levels of the other. Nitrite poisoning is often nicknamed “brown blood disease” because it results in increased levels of met hemoglobin in the blood of fish which can cause a brown discoloration. Discoloration of the blood is not the only problem associated with nitrite poisoning – this disease can also cause damage to the gills and inhibits the ability of blood cells to carry oxygen throughout the body. Fish suffering from nitrite poisoning may suffocate, even if the water in the tank has plenty of oxygen in it. Nitrite poisoning can also lead to stress in fish which can increase their susceptibility to disease – secondary infections like fin rot are common in fish that are already suffering from nitrite poisoning.

Though nitrate is less harmful than nitrite and ammonia, it can still be toxic for fish at high levels. The ideal level for nitrate in an aquarium is less than 30ppm, though most fish can tolerate levels up to 50ppm. When the nitrate levels in your tank reach 100ppm or higher, your fish will definitely start to feel the effects. Prolonged exposure to such high nitrate levels may cause increased stress, reduced reproductive capabilities and, in juvenile fish, stunted growth. In addition to affecting your fish, high nitrate levels in the tank could also contribute to increased algae growth. If algae growth is allowed to get out of control, it could have a negative impact on the water quality in your tank.

Tips for Control

As you know, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate are the by-products of the nitrogen cycle. As part of the nitrogen cycle, beneficial bacteria break down organic wastes like uneaten fish food and fish feces. It makes sense, then, that the less waste available in your tank, the lower the levels of ammonia, nitrite and nitrate will be. In order to minimize the amount of waste in your tank, make sure not to feed your fish more than necessary – only offer your fish as much as they can consume in 2 to 3 minutes and remove the uneaten portions of sinking wafers after an hour before they can fully dissolve. Another simple tip for controlling nitrite and nitrate in your tank is to install an EcoBio-Stone. These stones are made from volcanic stone and they are infused with beneficial bacteria as well as the nutrients they need to thrive. Adding extra beneficial bacteria to your tank through the EcoBio-Stone will help to maintain the nitrogen cycle, combatting high nitrite and nitrate levels in your tank. In combination with routine water changes, adding an EcoBio-Stone to your tank is an effective way to keep the water quality in your tank high and the nitrite/nitrate levels under control.

Marne tank

If you are an experienced aquarium hobbyist, you have probably dealt with your fair share of Ich outbreaks. What you may not realize, however, is that there are significant differences between freshwater and marine Ich. Both diseases are caused by a parasite but they can affect your tank and spread throughout your aquarium in different ways. If you have a saltwater tank, it would be beneficial for you to learn the basics about marine Ich so that you are prepared to deal with it, if needed

Symptoms

While freshwater Ich is caused by the parasite Ichthyophthirius multifiliis, marine Ich is caused by the parasite Cryptocaryon irrita. Like freshwater Ich, marine Ich typically manifests in form of small white spots covering the bodies, fins and gills of saltwater aquarium fish. These spots are actually encysted parasites and, while attached to the bodies of fish, they are feeding on the fish in preparation for the next stage of their life cycle. Though white spots are the most obvious symptom of marine Ich, this disease may also cause fish to develop cloudy eyes, pale gills or ragged fins. In response to the parasite infection, some fish may experience an increase in mucus production on their skin which could also contribute to a change in skin coloration. In addition to these physical symptoms, fish may also exhibit behavioral changes such as lethargy, abnormal swimming behavior, labored breathing or rubbing against tank objects (flashing).

Transmission and Spread

Marine Ich has the potential to spread very quickly throughout the saltwater tank. By the time you notice the symptoms of the disease, the parasite may already be widely distributed throughout the tank. When the parasite is attached to the host body it is in the feeding and growing stage and, in this stage, it is called a trophont. Once the parasite matures, it detaches itself from the host body and becomes a tomont. During this stage, the parasite will attach itself to the tank substrate or other tank objects and form a cyst. Inside this cyst, the tomont divides up to 10 times, producing many tiny tomites which will eventually break out of the cyst and infect the entire tank, seeking host bodies to attach to in order to restart the entire life cycle. Unlike freshwater Ich, marine Ich is not affected by water temperature. A common treatment for freshwater Ich is to increase the tank temperature in order to speed up the life cycle of the parasite so that it becomes vulnerable to medication. Marine Ich, however, is not sensitive to temperature and it is likely to spread quickly in tanks that have poor water quality.

Treatment Options

The most common treatment for marine Ich is copper or copper sulfate. To administer this treatment properly, dose your tank at a rate of between 0.15 to 0.24 mg/liter. In most cases, this treatment is effective within a few weeks – do not prolong the treatment more than necessary because excess exposure to copper can be harmful for fish. Another option is a medication called Coppersafe which is a stabilized form of chelated copper that is safe for both freshwater and saltwater aquarium fish. This medication is effective against several kinds of external parasites and one dose lasts for 4 weeks. As an alternative to copper treatment, you could also try raising the salinity of your tank to 11 or 12 ppt. Be careful when using this treatment, however, because some fish may be sensitive to changes in salinity.

In addition to treating the infection, you may also want to take steps to improve the water quality in your tank. Fish become stressed when the water quality in the tank declines and that stress often results in increased susceptibility to disease – the happier your fish are, the healthier they will be. A simple way to improve the water quality in your tank is to add an EcoBio-Stone. These stones are made from volcanic stone and they are infused with beneficial bacteria. Once added to your tank, the beneficial bacteria from the EcoBio-Stone will rapidly multiply, working to maintain the nitrogen cycle in your tank, thus keeping your tank water clean and clear.

If you plan on turning your freshwater aquarium into a saltwater aquarium, you are likely wondering if the equipment you already have can be used to create that saltwater aquarium or if you have to get brand new equipment. We will examine the individual components to see what you can continue to use and what you must replace. First, we will check out the aquarium itself.

Aquariums are not designed only to be used as either a freshwater tank or a saltwater tank; most aquariums can be used for either. The glass or acrylic material that makes up the structure of the aquarium certainly applies to both freshwater and saltwater aquarium tanks. The silicone adhesive that is used in construction is also applicable to both freshwater and saltwater aquariums.

The one main difference between freshwater and saltwater tanks is that freshwater tanks tend to be considerably smaller than their saltwater counterparts. While a 5-gallon freshwater tank can theoretically be transformed into a saltwater tank, small saltwater tanks are often harder to work with, which is why many experienced saltwater aquarists suggest that you use no smaller than a 55-gallon tank for your saltwater aquarium.

Regarding the filtration of your aquarium, filtration is a little more involved when it comes to saltwater aquariums, since biological filtration is an especially critical component in a saltwater aquarium. Freshwater aquarium owners can choose to use a biowheel and box that hangs on the outside of the tank or in a corner of the tank for filtration needs, but a saltwater tank usually needs more filtration than that which these types of filters can provide. While undergravel filter (UGF) set-ups can be used in saltwater aquariums, they can contribute to unwanted nitrate problems in later years, which is why many saltwater aquarium owners prefer wet-dry trickle and canister type filters that have bio-media chambers.

There is no set choice for a filter to be used in a saltwater aquarium; your best bet is to research the various filtration methods and set-ups, than choose the one that you feel will work best for your aquarium.  You can usually help to narrow your decision by deciding whether you will have a fish-only aquarium or a reef tank system, though filters that are used for reef tank systems can also be used for fish-only aquariums, so you can save money and hassle by purchasing filters that will work with reef tank systems even if you only initially plan on having fish in your saltwater aquarium.

Regarding pumps and powerheads, most freshwater pumps can work well in saltwater aquariums, provided that they are rated as safe to use in saltwater. The main difference between freshwater and saltwater aquariums is that saltwater aquariums use more pumps and powerheads to obtain greater movement and circulation in the water. This can be especially beneficial to the health of corals.

Many freshwater aquarium owners use large-sized gravel or rock material to provide the biological filter base. However, this does not work well in a saltwater tank, as the substrate that is used in saltwater tanks should have high natural levels of calcium content that originates in the ocean. One solution that you can use in both freshwater and saltwater aquariums is ONEdersave’s EcoBio-Block® aquarium products. Their EcoBio-Stone™ M works especially well in saltwater tanks, as it is made to be used in 16 to 50 gallons of water.

The lighting used for freshwater tanks can work with fish-only saltwater tanks, though the light hood may not stand up well to the corrosive effects of saltwater, plus it will not hold MH, PC, or VHO lighting.  You certainly need to change the lighting if you plan on having a reef system. It is important that you carefully research exactly what you need for your aquarium before heading out to your local fish store so that you don’t buy unnecessary or inadequate equipment.

You will definitely need to change the decorations in your tank if you plan to convert from freshwater to saltwater, as most saltwater fish are grazers, and if you leave decorations that are made of plastic, your saltwater fish could have their digestive tracks shut down from eating such items. You should place either live rock or non-living or synthetic decorative rocks and corals in your saltwater aquarium.

The heater for your freshwater tank will likely suffice for your saltwater tank, provided that it is safe to use in saltwater tanks. You will need to use a different test kit, however, since the chemicals used in freshwater test kits are entirely different from those found in saltwater test kits.

In conclusion, some equipment from your freshwater aquarium will work well with your new saltwater aquarium, but some equipment will have to be replaced. By doing some careful research online and in saltwater aquarium books, along with the information in this article, you should be able to transform your freshwater aquarium into a saltwater aquarium quickly and at relatively little cost.