Aquarium and Pond Care with EcoBio-Block

Even if you make sure to perform regular water changes and keep your aquarium filter running properly, it is likely that your fish will contract a disease at some point. Keeping your tank clean and feeding your fish a healthy diet are two of the most effective ways to prevent disease, but you cannot completely protect your fish. Aquarium fish diseases fall into four different categories and if you understand the basics about these diseases you will be better equipped to deal with them. Knowledge is the key to quickly diagnosing and treating aquarium fish diseases and the more quickly you are able to do so, the greater the chances are that your fish will recover.

Bacterial Diseases

Goldfish with Popeye

Poor water quality is the most common cause of bacterial infections and fish that are already stressed due to poor tank conditions or prior injury have an increased susceptibility to bacterial diseases. Bacterial infections may be either external or internal but external infections are the most common. External bacterial infections often produce symptoms like ragged or rotting fins, lethargy, reddening of the skin and ulcers. Internal infections may result in hemorrhaging and fluid build-up. Some of the most common bacterial infections include fin rot, dropsy, tuberculosis and red pest. Salt baths are a common treatment for bacterial infections, though medications such as potassium permanganate and chloramine-T are also effective.

Fungal Diseases

Fungal diseases are some of the most common among freshwater fish and examples of fungal diseases include cotton mouth, egg fungus and gill rot. Because fungal spores are already present in most aquariums, it only takes a decline in water quality for the disease to spread. Fish that are already stressed or injured are much more likely to contract fungal infections. Common symptoms of fungal diseases include white cottony growths, excessive mucus production and difficulty breathing or eating. Fungal infections are most often treated with antifungal agents such as phenoxyethanol and Malachite Green, though salt baths are also known to be effective.

Parasite Diseases

Parasite infections are caused by microscopic organisms which enter the bodies of fish and feed off of them, often killing the fish in the process. Common parasite infections include Ich, Hexamita, Chilodonella and Velvet. These diseases often produce symptoms such as ulcers, visible cysts or spots, loss of appetite and rubbing against tank objects. Increasing tank temperature can sometimes help to speed up the life cycle of the parasite but more common treatments include potassium permanganate, formalin and acriflavine.

Viral Diseases

Viral infections are some of the most difficult to diagnose and to treat because they are largely internal and cannot be treated directly. The most recognizable symptom of viral disease is wart-like growths, though red streaks or bruises on the skin and fins are also common. Some viral diseases may result in bloating, hemorrhaging, anorexia and lethargy. Fish pox, Lymphocystis and viral hemorrhagic septicemia are some of the most common viral infections. Most viral infections have no cure and even if the infected fish survives it may be a lifelong carrier of the disease.

Tips for Keeping Fish Healthy

You already know that keeping your fish tank clean is the key to keeping your fish healthy. What you may not realize, however, is that something as simple as adding an EcoBio-Stone to your tank can make a big difference in maintaining high water quality. EcoBio-Stones are made from porous volcanic cement and infused with beneficial bacteria. When the stone is immersed in water, the beneficial bacteria multiply to form a colony in your tank that will help maintain the nitrogen cycle and clarify the water. When combined with routine water changes and adequate filtration, an EcoBio-Stone can help to keep your aquarium clean and clear which will lower the chances of your fish contracting a disease.

Algae growth is a nuisance that most aquarium hobbyists have trouble with at one time or another. Excessive algae growth is something that can creep up slowly or it may suddenly take over your tank in the form of an algae bloom. If you hope to control algae growth in your tank, you first need to cultivate an understanding of the different types of aquarium algae. Once you know the basics you will be able to identify the algae growing in your tank and you will then be able to take the proper steps to control it.

Types of Algae in the Aquarium

from left: brown algae, green algae, and thread algae

Brown Algae = This is the most common type of aquarium algae and it is likely to be found in new tanks as well as aquariums with low lighting. Also called diatoms, brown algae presents in the shape of soft clumps that form on aquarium walls and décor. This type of algae can be easily removed by hand and it can be controlled through the introduction of live plants or algae eaters like aquarium snails and Otocinclus catfish.

Green Algae = This type of algae usually presents as green water in the aquarium and it is often a result of poor water quality. Green algae, also called an algae bloom, grows quickly in tanks that have too much light and in new tanks that haven’t been cycled correctly. Because it typically forms a film on tank walls and décor, green algae can easily be wiped off and it usually goes away on its own once the tank conditions have stabilized.

Cyanobacteria = Often called blue/green algae, cyanobacteria are actually microscopic organisms that spread throughout the tank in slimy blue/green sheets. This type of algae can be removed easily by hand and its growth should be controlled or it may result in the death of fish and aquarium plants.

Green Spot Algae = Presenting in the form of hard green spots on tank walls and plants, this type of algae is one of the most stubborn. Green spot algae is typically found in tanks exposed to too much light and tanks with low CO₂ and Phosphate levels. The best way to remove this type of algae is by scraping it away with a razor blade – few species of algae eaters are successful in removing green spot algae growths.

Red/Brush Algae = Brush algae, also called red algae, tends to collect on slow-growing aquarium plants. This type of algae can grow in either acidic or alkaline conditions and it is difficult to remove by hand. Siamese algae eaters are one of the only known species that are effective in controlling this type of algae growth.

Thread Algae = This type of algae takes the form of long threads which grow up to 30cm long and hang on to leaf edges. Thread algae is likely to grow in tanks that are low in iron and it can easily be removed by twirling the growths around a toothbrush. This type of algae can be controlled through the introduction of Siamese algae eaters into the tank.

Tips for Controlling Aquarium Algae

In order to keep algae levels low in your aquarium you need to limit the nutrients available and make the tank environment less ideal for algae growth. Keeping your tank clean through routine water changes and by limiting the amount of food you give your fish are two simple ways to limit the nutrients available to algae. Live aquarium plants are another great solution because plants will compete with algae for nutrients, thus limiting the ability of algae to grow. Keeping your tank out of direct sunlight and limiting your use of artificial light to 10 or 12 hours a day are the best ways to make your tank environment less likely to encourage algae growth.

Another simple way to keep your tank clean and clear is to introduce an EcoBio-Stone. An EcoBio-Stone is made of porous volcanic rock and is infused with unique beneficial bacteria. Once they have been introduced into your tank, these bacteria will multiply and help to maintain the nitrogen cycle. The nitrogen cycle is simply the process through which wastes are broken down and the resulting ammonia is converted into nitrates. Once you install an EcoBio-Stone in your tank, the beneficial bacteria will take over, helping to keep your tank water clean and clear. A clean aquarium is less likely to experience excess algae growth and it will be a healthier environment for your fish.

Suffice it to say that Old Tank Syndrome is the opposite of New Tank Syndrome. To refresh the memory, let us remember that New Tank Syndrome takes place when an eager newcomer to the aquarium hobby starts to lose fish at about the six-week anniversary of aquarium ownership.

This can happen due to poor water quality, especially elevated ammonia levels because of an unhealthy filtration system. It can also take place because the novice owner is still a bit clumsy at giving the aquarium and fish the proper sort of care.

Old Tank Syndrome has a telltale symptom, and that is a sense of complacency in a long time aquarium owner when it comes to the condition of his or her tank. All of the excitement of having this hobby has passed by this time, and the fish-lover could almost be said to take his aquarium for granted.

The tank is stable, the fish are well fed and in good health. There have been no changes in the aquarium for quite a while now. The fish are fed on schedule most of the time, and no new fish have been added to the aqua community. No water tests for ammonia or nitrites have been done, either. All those partial water changes that were done at the beginning of aquarium ownership have fallen by the wayside as well.

It is about now that the long-time aquarium owner begins to notice that his fish tank seems to be a bit “off”. He or she may decide to do a partial water change to try and rectify things. Alternately, the hobbyist discovers a dead fish, and decides to go and purchase a few new occupants for the aquarium. Either of these scenarios is going to upset the balance of the aquarium.

The present fish are used to the aquarium condition just the way it is. A partial water change could prove to be very stressful, and could even kill the fish. Every seasoned pet fish keeper has heard this tale of woe from a newbie, “We had just changed the water, and then all the fish started to die one by one.”

New fish will also upset the balance in the aquarium, but in a different way. They will create even more ammonia and nitrites, and this will upset the balance that the fish have slowly become used to. Either way, you stand a good chance of losing some fish.

Old tank syndrome can be avoided by maintaining the same schedule of water testing and frequent partial water changes that you did when your tank was brand new. Or, you can take advantage of one of the EcoBio-Block family of products, and spend the time you would have spent maintaining your aquarium admiring your fish! EcoBio-Block Products will keep the water quality in your tank healthy for your fish population as well as maintaining the water in a crystal clear condition.

Why my aquarium plants are dying?

Freshwater aquariums have untold value as both a living, breathing ecosystem in your own home for educational purposes as well as a gorgeous home decor item for your pleasure. There are a vast array of decorations you can put in your aquarium ranging from store-bought ceramic statues to driftwood, but the favored addition for many are plants. Beginning aquarists frequently opt for plastic or silk aquarium plants because they have a beauty similar to nature and are presumably easier to take care of than live plants. However, many have found that hardy live aquarium plants rarely require more maintenance than fake plants, and they really aren’t that difficult to keep.  Having trouble with plants dying and don’t know what’s causing it? There are a number of common, easy-to-fix causes of plant death.

By far the most common affliction for live plants in a freshwater aquarium is the light level. When selecting your plants, make sure that they all have similar lighting requirements, and that your aquarium can provide the ideal light level. In general, most low-light plants still grow in higher lighting — although many can grow out of control — so your best bet is to increase the lighting. If the style of your light fixture allows, this could be as easy as lining the bulb housing with aluminum foil to increase the amount of light reflected into the water.

The next concern is the nutrient level and water quality. Plants require nitrates as well as various trace nutrients in order to grow. They may also require CO2 injection into the tank, especially if your aquarium is well-aerated and has quite a bit of surface agitation as this will help the CO2 gas off quickly. Poor water quality (in general) can have a detrimental effect on aquarium plants; if the water isn’t within healthy parameters for the fish living in the aquarium.  It’s not healthy for the plants either. Water quality can be ensured through regular water changes and/or with a high-quality water maintenance product such as EcoBio-Block. EcoBio-Block contains beneficial bacteria to break down ammonia and nitrites into plant-usable nitrates as well as essential trace minerals to ensure the water stays at an optimal level between water changes.

Medications may also be to blame for plant problems. Many aquatic treatments and medications are harmful to invertebrates such as shrimp and snails as well as any live plants in the aquarium as they contain copper; these include any kind of algae destroyer as well as many ich medications, fungicide, and antibiotics. EcoBio-Planter or a similar water maintenance product may reduce or eliminate the need for any of these treatments, as high water quality is critical for healthy fish. However, if you must use medications to treat the water, EcoBio-Block should be removed during the process as the live bacteria could also be harmed.

There is a lot that can be learned about what conditions might be ailing a particular plant by the color and pattern of blemishes and the way in which it dies that can help diagnose the issue; however, in the majority of cases the problem is one of the above which can easily be corrected.