Aquarium and Pond Care with EcoBio-Block

When it comes to properly maintaining a saltwater tank there are several pieces of equipment you must have. A thriving saltwater tank will require a high-quality filtration system to help remove solid and dissolved wastes from the water column. It will also require a high-powered lighting system, especially if you plan to keep corals in your tank. A protein skimmer may be necessary to remove excess proteins from your tank water and a sump system may be helpful in keeping all of this equipment in order. One piece of equipment that may not be mandatory for keeping a saltwater tank, but proves quite useful, is a UV sterilizer.

What are UV Sterilizers?

An ultraviolet (UV) sterilizer is a device that helps to control microscopic algae, bacteria and parasites in your tank water. This device can generally be attached to your filter system so that filtered water passes through the device as it is being returned to the tank. A UV sterilizer consists of an ultraviolet bulb over which filtered water is passed – the UV light kills off a significant portion of the algae, parasites and bacteria in the water before returning it to the tank. These devices are incredibly useful and, when paired with a high-quality filtration system, they are a very effective means of keeping your saltwater aquarium clean. The best part about UV sterilizers is that it doesn’t require any additional work on your part, other than setting up the device.

Tips and Considerations

Before you go out and buy a UV sterilizer for your tank, you might want to consider the benefits and drawbacks of such a device. One of the main benefits of UV sterilizers is that they are generally very easy to use – many models can be attached directly to standard aquarium filters. These devices also help to prevent excess algae growth and the spread of pathogenic bacteria by killing the cells before they are able to reproduce. Another benefit is that UV sterilizers come in a variety of sizes to fit all saltwater and freshwater tanks – you can even find stand-alone models if your filter system cannot accommodate a traditional UV sterilizer.

Though UV sterilizers are very beneficial in the saltwater tank, you should be aware that these devices only target the free-floating organisms in your tank water – they cannot do anything about algae growing on tank surfaces or bacteria/parasites that have already invaded the bodies of your fish. It is also important to note that UV sterilizers can interfere with certain medications so, if you are treating your fish for disease, you may need to unplug the device. Aside from these drawbacks, UV sterilizers are an excellent device to incorporate into your saltwater tank.

While incorporating a UV sterilizer into your saltwater tank setup may help improve the water quality in your tank, there are other simple things you can do to keep your tank clean. Installing an EcoBio-Stone, for example, is a hassle-free way to boost the biological filtration in your tank to help keep your tank water clean and clear. EcoBio-Stones are made from natural volcanic rock and they are infused both with beneficial bacteria and the nutrients they need to thrive. Once installed in your tank, EcoBio-Stones help to establish and maintain the nitrogen cycle, thus adding to the water-cleaning power of your UV sterilizer.

Marne tank

If you are an experienced aquarium hobbyist, you have probably dealt with your fair share of Ich outbreaks. What you may not realize, however, is that there are significant differences between freshwater and marine Ich. Both diseases are caused by a parasite but they can affect your tank and spread throughout your aquarium in different ways. If you have a saltwater tank, it would be beneficial for you to learn the basics about marine Ich so that you are prepared to deal with it, if needed

Symptoms

While freshwater Ich is caused by the parasite Ichthyophthirius multifiliis, marine Ich is caused by the parasite Cryptocaryon irrita. Like freshwater Ich, marine Ich typically manifests in form of small white spots covering the bodies, fins and gills of saltwater aquarium fish. These spots are actually encysted parasites and, while attached to the bodies of fish, they are feeding on the fish in preparation for the next stage of their life cycle. Though white spots are the most obvious symptom of marine Ich, this disease may also cause fish to develop cloudy eyes, pale gills or ragged fins. In response to the parasite infection, some fish may experience an increase in mucus production on their skin which could also contribute to a change in skin coloration. In addition to these physical symptoms, fish may also exhibit behavioral changes such as lethargy, abnormal swimming behavior, labored breathing or rubbing against tank objects (flashing).

Transmission and Spread

Marine Ich has the potential to spread very quickly throughout the saltwater tank. By the time you notice the symptoms of the disease, the parasite may already be widely distributed throughout the tank. When the parasite is attached to the host body it is in the feeding and growing stage and, in this stage, it is called a trophont. Once the parasite matures, it detaches itself from the host body and becomes a tomont. During this stage, the parasite will attach itself to the tank substrate or other tank objects and form a cyst. Inside this cyst, the tomont divides up to 10 times, producing many tiny tomites which will eventually break out of the cyst and infect the entire tank, seeking host bodies to attach to in order to restart the entire life cycle. Unlike freshwater Ich, marine Ich is not affected by water temperature. A common treatment for freshwater Ich is to increase the tank temperature in order to speed up the life cycle of the parasite so that it becomes vulnerable to medication. Marine Ich, however, is not sensitive to temperature and it is likely to spread quickly in tanks that have poor water quality.

Treatment Options

The most common treatment for marine Ich is copper or copper sulfate. To administer this treatment properly, dose your tank at a rate of between 0.15 to 0.24 mg/liter. In most cases, this treatment is effective within a few weeks – do not prolong the treatment more than necessary because excess exposure to copper can be harmful for fish. Another option is a medication called Coppersafe which is a stabilized form of chelated copper that is safe for both freshwater and saltwater aquarium fish. This medication is effective against several kinds of external parasites and one dose lasts for 4 weeks. As an alternative to copper treatment, you could also try raising the salinity of your tank to 11 or 12 ppt. Be careful when using this treatment, however, because some fish may be sensitive to changes in salinity.

In addition to treating the infection, you may also want to take steps to improve the water quality in your tank. Fish become stressed when the water quality in the tank declines and that stress often results in increased susceptibility to disease – the happier your fish are, the healthier they will be. A simple way to improve the water quality in your tank is to add an EcoBio-Stone. These stones are made from volcanic stone and they are infused with beneficial bacteria. Once added to your tank, the beneficial bacteria from the EcoBio-Stone will rapidly multiply, working to maintain the nitrogen cycle in your tank, thus keeping your tank water clean and clear.

Being an aquarium owner is one of the most rewarding hobbies ever! There are so many different types of fish to choose from, and watching your fish with their striking colors swim about the tank is a pleasure you can enjoy every day.

Some aquarium owners are unaware of the need to prevent overcrowding in their fish tanks, and are unable to tell if their fish are ready for a larger tank.
A novice owner can commit this no-no easily. The fish that they purchased when first starting out in the aquarium hobby may have become too large for their original tank. Enthused about this new hobby, the newbie may have also added more fish than the size of the usual beginner 10-gallon tank can handle. No matter what the circumstances, it does not take long for an overcrowded tank to begin to show signs of trouble as the level of toxins in the water rise.

A high toxin load in your aquarium is definitely going to stress out your fish, and can even kill them if it is allowed to continue for too long. You can try to keep up with partial water changes, which can help the condition of the tank water, but that can be a lot of work.

The overcrowded aquarium requires much more oxygen than the aquarium that is properly stocked and well maintained. This means that the fish in a tank that is too small to house them properly are deprived of the oxygen they need.
If you are dealing with an overcrowded aquarium, then ammonia and nitrite levels should be monitored frequently.

Another aspect of overcrowding is the fact that any diseases or parasites your fish may have will affect every fish in the aquarium in a very short time. All fish have parasites and bacteria on the surface of their bodies. When fish are stressed, they are much more apt to fall victim to either or both.

It can be simple to take care of one or two fish that have developed some sort of fungus, or who are spotted with Ich. However, having a small aquarium full of sick fish is not a pleasant scenario. By the time you are able to get all of the fish out of the aquarium and into a safe place, well over half of them could be dead or dying.

You may think that a larger tank is out of your budget. Ask friends if they have or know of anyone with a spare aquarium in their garage. Watch the classified section of your daily newspaper for used tanks, or even better, look around the online classifieds for your area. You may be lucky enough to find the exact type and size of tank you need

Once you have located what you think would be a suitable tank for your fish, make sure that you have found the size that you need. Freshwater fish will generally need about a gallon of water for every inch. Saltwater fish need one square foot for every three inches, so do keep the proper figures in mind as you shop for a larger tank.

Your larger tank will be a lot of fun to accessorize, but why not make one of those accessories a highly functional one? Placing a couple of EcoBio-Stone M in that new to you, larger aquarium will help to keep the water beautifully clear. This product also gets rid of any funky odors the tank water may have, and can really cut down on the frequency of water changes.

Those who have just begun the hobby of keeping freshwater aquarium fish may not realize the importance of keeping the aquarium water quality in their tanks crystal clean and pleasing to the eye. When the water has this appearance, and has no odor, you know that your aquarium is a good home for your fish. The aquarium water quality of the water you use can play a big role in the overall health and longevity of your fish.

You are responsible for the condition of your fish. In the wild, the different species of fish thrive in various kinds of environments. To be fair to your fish, it is up to you to provide an environment for them that will mimic what they would live in were they in their natural state.

The type of water you use is very important. Most people use whatever water is easiest for them. This means tap water to the majority of the population who have aquariums. The only thing needed is a dechlorinator or a chloramine remover. Tap water from a city source is more than likely chlorinated, and you must remove this chemical from the water to make it safe for your fish.

Other water types you can use in your aquarium if tap water is not an option include various types of bottled water. Since bottled water so frequently comes from a municipal source, just as tap water does, it is difficult to find a brand you can trust unless you become a habitual label reader.

If you use a water softener for your home, you should make sure that the softener media it requires is safe for your aquarium. Sometimes, fish owners want to collect rainwater, or use water from a lake or stream to fill their tank. There may be pathogens, pollution, or parasites in these water types that could harm your fish.

Tap water is generally safe, no matter where you may happen to live. The consensus among those who do not keep fish is that if it is good enough for human consumption, it should be good enough for a fish. While clean water is very important for people, aquarium fish do much better with the addition of some beneficial bacteria to their water.

What can beneficial bacteria do for the water in your aquarium, and the health of your fish? These bacteria can do many things to make the aquarium fish hobby one that you will thoroughly enjoy. Keeping fish is much easier when you have the right bacteria balance. Beneficial bacteria can clarify the cloudy water in your tank, keeping it healthy and clear. As long as there are beneficial bacteria present, your aquarium water quality will continue to improve.

Nowadays, it is easier than ever to keep fish happy and healthy. An EcoBio-Block is a block made of volcanic mixture that has been infused with the live, beneficial bacteria your fish tank needs. These bacteria will keep your tank water crystal clear and odor free. They will help a new aquarium to cycle faster, and almost eliminate the need for frequent partial water changes and substrate vacuuming.

EcoBio-Block is safe for your fish, and can last for up to two years. Anyone who enjoys keeping fish and has pondered over aquarium water quality dos and don’ts, owes it to themselves to try an EcoBio-Block, and see the difference in their tank water.

If you keep fish, you’ve almost certainly heard of Ichthyophthirius Multifillis…or, more simply, Ich. Though many amateur aquarists misdiagnose their afflicted fish with Ich because of the presence of any kind of white spot, once your fish actually have the real disease it’s unmistakable.

Ich is a parasite that first appears as a bunch of small white cysts on the fish’s skin, generally concentrated around the gills and fins. These spots are “clean” and compact, looking much like someone sprinkled salt over your fish. If this does not describe the spots on your fish, it’s not Ich…fin rot, columnaris and a multitude of other parasites and infections have some form of white or grey spotting. Ich can be deadly to the fish, though surprisingly most fish that have Ich do not die because of the parasites. Instead, most die from secondary infections from having less-than-pristine water or even from the harsh medications meant to treat Ich.

How do the fish get Ich? Sometimes it’s from infected new fish, sometimes there are even parasites already living in the aquarium that you never know about until conditions are right for them to infect the fish. So what do you do? Simple…you keep your fish as healthy as humanly possible. If a fish is active with a strong immune system and a healthy slime coat, their chances of being infected are minimal. In the event that such a healthy fish does get infected, they have a very good chance of fighting off the parasite and avoiding secondary infections.

The first step to keeping fish healthy is to feed them a high-quality, varied diet. The food sold at most pet stores do not qualify as high-quality, though if it’s all that’s available it will do for maintenance care as long as they have some dietary variation. It’s easy to cultivate live food such as brine shrimp, vinegar eels, mosquito larvae or grindal worms to add necessary protein and variety into the diet. There are plenty of online sources of healthy fish food as well as recipes for creating your own top-of-the-line food for your finned pets.

The next – and most important – step to keeping fish healthy and preventing secondary infections in afflicted fish is to have a clean aquarium. Just because the water is clear, doesn’t mean it’s clean or healthy. A healthy tank will require a partial water change at least every two weeks, depending on stocking levels (though water maintenance products such as EcoBio-Stones can significantly reduce these), and nitrate levels need to be kept below 20ppm. Most books and sites will recommend no more than 40ppm nitrates, however some types of fish and invertebrates such as snails, shrimp, smaller tetras and angels do not like the higher levels, so it’s always best to err on the side of caution.

Water changes help keep the parameters within acceptable limits, help remove excess organic material such as waste and uneaten food, and also replenish required minerals in the water that the fish use up over time. If you prefer not to do as many water changes or are physically unable to, there are alternatives to doing so many. My favorite is the aforementioned EcoBio-Stone, which is a water maintenance product that introduces beneficial bacteria into the aquarium (which keeps the biological filter healthy) and slowly leaches necessary minerals into the water to keep fish healthy. You’ll still need to do a gravel vacuum occasionally to remove excess organic material or stir your substrate to get rid of potentially harmful gas pockets and bring the organic material up where your mechanical filter can remove it from the aquarium.

Finally, if your fish do get Ich, avoid commercial medications if possible. Most Ich medications contain Malachite Green, a chemical that is very toxic in concentrated amounts and is often used as a dye. This is very effective at killing parasites, but is also very hard on the fish and you run a risk of killing them too. Invertebrates and plants are at special risk with these products. Instead, make sure your water parameters are ideal (this may require a partial water change) and then treat with aquarium salt and a topical antibiotic such as Melafix. Exactly how much of each of these will depend on the size of your tank and whether you have invertebrates or scale-less fish such as tetras. While any medication is being used you should remove activated carbon from the filter. If you have EcoBio-Stone, vacation food, calcium blocks or any other leave-in or time-released products they will need to be removed before treating the aquarium. Keep EcoBio-Stone in de-chlorinated water if you’d like to avoid any extra re-starting time.

If you wish to decrease treatment time, raising the temperature will speed up the life cycle of the parasites so they can be killed sooner, but be careful if you decide to do this. Many sources suggest heating the water to 80F which is great for tetras, guppies and the like, but the safe temperature varies widely for each fish. The temperature of the water determines how much dissolved oxygen the water can hold, so it’s safe to heat the water to the upper comfortable limit for each fish but not much warmer. This means that for many hardy community fish 80F works well, but for some goldfish or mosquito fish it shouldn’t be any warmer than 75F while some types of cichlids may be able to handle 83F without a problem. Do some research on all the species of fish in your aquarium to determine how much you can safely heat the water.

Bear in mind that the salt will kill the parasites, but it cannot harm them while they are inside the fish. It can take up to two weeks for the cysts to burst and another couple of weeks after that for all of them to die. The aquarium should remain treated for the entire time, about 4-5 weeks. The antibiotic helps prevent deadly secondary infections. After the treatment phase is over the salt and medication may be removed by water changes or with activated carbon; then you just need to examine your feeding and maintenance habits to keep the infestation from happening again.

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