Did you know there are ways to promote the growth of healthy nitrifying bacteria in the aquarium and things to avoid which will adversely affect bacteria?
There are many strains of the nitrifying bacteria species and each may have varying tolerances, but in general, the following information applies to all of them:
Temperature
Temperature plays a role in the growth rate of bacteria.
77-86° F (25-30° C) is the temperature for optimum growth of nitrifying bacteria
At 64° F (18° C) the growth rate is decreased by 50%
At 46-50° F. Growth rate is decreased by 75%
No activity will occur at 39° F (4° C)
Nitrifying bacteria will die at 32° F (0° C).
Nitrifying bacteria will die at 120° F (49° C)
In cold water systems, careful attention should be given to monitor the levels of nitrite.
pH
The optimum pH range for Nitrosomonas is between 7.8-8.0, and for Nitrobacter is between 7.3-7.5. Below these ranges growth is slowed down. All nitrification ceases at a pH of 6.0 or lower. Ammonia levels should be closely monitored at a pH of 6.5 or lower.
Dissolved Oxygen
Oxygen levels have a direct effect on nitrifying bacteria. At very low levels the bacteria basically become inactive. The bacteria reach their highest level of nitrification when dissolved oxygen levels reach 80% saturation.
Micronutrients
Just like plant life, bacteria need nutrients to feed on for energy and growth. Many micronutrients are used by bacteria including phosphorus which plays an important role in the conversion of ATP to energy for cellular functions. Phosphorus is usually present in the form of phosphate in tap water and from decaying fish foods or other decaying organic material, but if your aquarium has no measurable level of phosphate it would be a good idea to introduce a small amount by way of phosphoric acid, mono-sodium phosphate or di-sodium phosphate.
Other micronutrients, (minerals) are normally found in ample levels in tap water. RO, deionized, or distilled water that is completely stripped of all minerals is inhibitory to nitrifying bacteria. It is important if using this type of water to replenish the water with mineral salts for the overall health of the aquatic system.
You can use products like the EcoBio-Block line, which contain special beneficial bacteria (bacillus subtilis natto) that are already packaged with the micronutrients they need to keep levels of good bacteria high and cloudy water and odor non-existent. These bacterium can survive from the strong acid of pH 3 to the strong alkali of pH 11, and are active in temperatures from 50° F to 149° F.
Nitrifying bacteria play an important role in keeping a healthy and balanced aquarium, but are also dependent on a balanced environment in order to function and grow- as all life is.
To maintain a healthy pond, you need to make sure that your pond has good-quality aeration. A lack of good aeration can lead to a green-colored, algae-filled pond, while good aeration can lead to a crystal-clear and thriving fish pond.
Many kinds of fish require clean, cool, well-oxygenated water. Water that is not properly aerated will have a low level of dissolved oxygen and will often have stratified water columns, or water that varies in water quality depending on the depth and level of the water.
Finding out the proper level of aeration often takes a trial-and-error approach. A commonly accepted method of finding the proper aeration is to pump the entire pond through the filter at least once per hour. This does not guarantee sufficient aeration, however, as the shape, size, and structure of your fish pond could necessitate a different level of aeration in order for the pond to be properly aerated.
An external filter could have the flow returned to the pond using a stream or waterfall. This can diffuse the current, which can lead to low-flow areas on the opposite side of the pond. Adding an additional outlet to the flow can usually correct this problem. Many people will add supplemental flow through an air pump or dedicated pump to ensure proper air flow throughout the entire pond.
Without proper aeration, there will be low dissolved oxygen levels in the water. If the dissolved oxygen levels are too low, it can cause many problems, with the most dangerous problem being that fish can die if a certain parts per million (ppm) of dissolved oxygen is not maintained.
Additionally, noxious odors can come from the pond when there are low levels of dissolved oxygen in the water. This is due to the breakdown of organic waste shifting from an aerobic process to a slower anaerobic process, which results in the formation of hydrogen sulfide (that produces the odor). If the pond is deeper, the lack of oxygen will also create an unusable layer at the bottom of the pond, a place where fish cannot inhabit. As a result, their living space is reduced and the oxygenated water in that living space is stressed even more because it alone has to sustain the fish.
The most common cause of low oxygen levels is an overabundance of aquatic plants, especially algae. A moderate number of aquatic plants can be beneficial to the pond because they do release water into the pond. Planktonic algae are the first step in the food chain of a pond, so their presence is also critical. However, having too many of them will harm the pond’s environment; while planktonic algae do provide oxygen to the pond during the day, they will also consume oxygen at night. As a result, heavy algae blooms or thick aquatic vegetation can lead to dangerous low levels of oxygen for the fish, often leading to their deaths.
Poor dissolved oxygen levels also come from high organic waste loads. Dead vegetation, fertilizer run-off, fish food, and fish waste can all contribute to the amount of organic waste load. These elements can be naturally broken down in a pond due to the presence of beneficial bacteria, but like most things, that bacteria needs oxygen in order to do it, which is why it is critical that you keep the oxygen levels at acceptable levels or higher.
To do this, you need to consider the two main types of aeration systems: surface aeration and bottom based aeration. To decide which would be more beneficial for your pond, consider the depth of your pond. If your pond is less than six feet deep, a surface aeration system is likely best, while deeper ponds should utilize a bottom based aeration system.
The main difference between the two types of aeration systems is that surface aerators are usually floating aeration units that pull in water from the top foot or two of the pond and splash it into the air. As the water falls back to the pond, oxygen transfer and the venting of gases occur. This means that the aeration is taking place just at the surface, which is why this method of aeration works best for smaller ponds.
Conversely, bottom based aeration systems or diffused aeration involves pushing air down to the bottom of the pond or lake and allowing the bubbles to rise naturally to the surface of the water. The bubbles provide the bulk of the aeration, which makes bottom based aeration systems the ideal choice for larger ponds and lakes. As the bubbles rise, they de-stratify the water, which eliminates that oxygen-poor zone down at the bottom of the pond or lake. The oxygen rich water helps to create a healthier water column.
Proper aeration will not only keep your fish alive, but will also stimulate beneficial pond bacteria that can break down waste and reduce the bottom muck layer. Aerobic bacteria will also be more numerous than anaerobic bacteria, which will reduce the odor that your pond produces. Phosphates, which algae thrive on, are eliminated, preventing the algae from accumulating in your pond. Your overall water quality will also be improved. Gasses like carbon dioxide and hydrogen sulfide can be easily vented. Quality aeration systems can also keep fish from dying in ponds in northern states during the winter, as the pond’s surface will not freeze over, allowing gasses to be vented during the winter, which is critical to the survival of your fish.
To further aid the presence and growth of aerobic bacteria, you should utilize EcoBio-Block nsM and/or EcoBio-Block Wave. These products have been shown to increase the presence of nitrifying bacteria and decrease the time it takes to establish the denitrification cycle in your pond. This will help to reduce the odor emanating from your pond and it has been established as safe for all fish and plants.
As you can see, pond aeration is critical to the survival of your fish and to the presence of aerobic bacteria, which can break down waste more quickly and with less odor than anaerobic bacteria. There are two main types of aeration: surface aeration and bottom based aeration. Surface aeration is best for ponds that are less than six feet, as aeration only occurs at the surface. For deeper ponds and lakes, bottom based aeration is best, since this keeps the bottom part of the pond/lake enriched with oxygen, critical to the water level remaining high and allowing your fish to live throughout the whole area. By carefully considering and implementing the proper aeration system, your fish can remain healthy and add to the landscape of your pond.
Would you be able to handle a saltwater tank problem if you went home this evening to find one waiting for you? No one who keeps fish wants to go through an emergency with their saltwater tank, but it can certainly help to know what needs to be done if by chance you should find yourself with a saltwater tank problem.
There are three main emergencies that the saltwater tank owner needs to be prepared for if possible. Knowing what to do when faced with a leaking tank, an electrical outage, or a tank that is overheating can go a long way towards turning an emergency into a learning experience.
A leaking saltwater tank does not have to mean disaster for the carpet or floors in your home if you act quickly. If you discover a leak, bring out those clean five-gallon buckets you have collected just in case you needed them, and start dipping the salt water out of your aquarium. The idea is to save as much of the water as you can. Take a fish net, and gently catch your fish, then place them in the five-gallon buckets of aquarium water.
I hope that you have anticipated a saltwater tank problem, and have another aquarium that you can quickly set up. The longer your saltwater fish have to spend in those buckets, the greater are the chances that they may not survive. Once you get the spare tank set up, place your fish and their water into it, hook up your filters, heater, and lights, and all is well again.
If your power goes out during a storm, it could be off for ten minutes or ten days, depending on the severity of the storm and where you live. Prepare for this problem by obtaining an air pump that runs on batteries. This will help to keep the oxygen levels in your saltwater aquarium as close to normal as possible, as well as aerate the water. If it is cold, you will want to keep your fish as warm as you can. A heavy blanket wrapped around the tank will help keep the heat in.
If you live in an area where the power goes off routinely for a few days during storm season, a small portable generator of the kind used for camping could work out to be cheaper than batteries for you. You can plug the electrical accessories, such as your saltwater tank’s filtration system, heater and the like, right into the generator, which can run for several hours on a tank of fuel.
An aquarium heater that malfunctions can be dangerous to your fish if it is allowed to run unchecked. Make a habit of checking the temperature of the water on a daily basis. If you should discover that the water in your saltwater tank is too hot, immediately begin to remove some of the water in those five-gallon buckets we spoke of earlier. Set the buckets to one side once they are full, as you will be adding the water back to the tank when it is cooler.
Fill some plastic Ziploc bags with ice cubes, and float them in the aquarium. You must use the plastic bags, as regular ice cubes would dilute the salinity of your tank water. Monitor the temperature of the water in the tank as well as the water in the buckets. Remove the ice cubes when the tank water has cooled to around its usual temperature, and pour the water from the buckets back into the tanks once it is cool enough.
If you experience a saltwater tank problem like the ones mentioned here, try to stay calm and remember the procedures outlined in this article. Just by knowing what to do can keep a saltwater tank emergency from becoming a possible disaster.
Aquariums are wonderful additions to any home, but problems can arise from the fact that essential life functions within the aquarium are facilitated by electricity – namely, oxygen and temperature regulation. Strong winds, lightning, falling tree branches and floods can all cause unexpected power outages, and in small towns or rural areas even automobile accidents that involve power poles can plunge households into darkness as the only means of electricity has to be shut down. Here are a few tips on how to safeguard your beloved aquarium in the event of a power outage.
The most important thing to keep going in the aquarium is the oxygen exchange. Beneficial bacteria in the tank require a lot of oxygen, so once a filter and aerator stop working the dissolved oxygen depletes very quickly. Once oxygen is depleted the bacteria colonies begin dying off or becoming inactive, allowing ammonia levels to rise. Hardy strains of bacteria such as the bacillus subtilis natto strain used in EcoBio-Block will mostly become inactive, but return to actively breaking down ammonia as soon as proper oxygen levels are restored. This can happen within an hour or two of losing power, depending on stocking levels. Additionally, a lot of beneficial bacteria lives in filter media so if you have a canister filter or HOB filter that keeps the media out of the main body of water a large portion of the aquarium’s bacteria may be unavailable instantly.
This is where planning ahead can be a real lifesaver…and back saver! If your power goes out and you don’t have a generator, having all your aquarium equipment plugged into an uninterrupted power supply is possibly one of the best ways to keep going for short-term outages. Battery-powered aerators are available online and in many pet stores as well and can be a great asset during outages or when traveling with fish. If none of these are available, you can manually facilitate oxygen exchange by filling a pitcher from the tank (here’s where the back comes in) and dumping the water back in, then repeating at regular intervals until power comes back.
Now for temperature control; in cold weather, a watertight container filled with boiling water (provided you have a gas range or access to a wood-burning stove) makes a great heater that will keep fish near it warm. In hot weather, a water-tight container or two or three ziplock baggies inside each other (to prevent leaks) with ice cubes in it will keep water near it cool enough for the fish.
If the power is out for extended periods of time you may have to watch the water parameters closely when the aquarium is functioning again as a lot of beneficial bacteria can die from oxygen deprivation, causing ammonia spikes. To control these you’ll either need to do water changes every day to keep ammonia levels down until the bacteria catches up again, or you can add some new bacteria from products such as EcoBio-Block or BioSpira. BioSpira is a bottled bacteria culture that works well, but has to be refrigerated and has a limited shelf life so it may not be the best for emergency preparation. EcoBio-Block is a water maintenance product that lasts about 1 1/2-2 years in the aquarium; this product introduces and promotes the growth of beneficial bacteria as well as keeps the water parameters healthy, which can reduce fish stress in an emergency. EcoBio-Block is a very valuable maintenance product that will keep the aquarium water healthy every day in addition to emergency uses, but it can take up to a couple of weeks to start working initially so it should already be in place to be effective in an emergency.
Did you know there are ways to promote the growth of healthy nitrifying bacteria in the aquarium and things to avoid which will adversely affect bacteria?
