Aquarium and Pond Care with EcoBio-Block

Useful, interesting and must-know articles about aquarium and pond care

Controlling Algae Growth in Your Outdoor Pond

Algae growth can be a serious problem for both indoor aquariums and outdoor ponds. In an outdoor pond, a limited amount of algae can lend your pond a natural appearance and it can also provide a healthy food source for your fish. If algae spreads too quickly, however, and if its growth is not controlled it can threaten the healthy balance you have worked so hard to maintain in your pond. To avoid having to deal with a sudden algae problem, take early and consistent steps to control and limit algae growth within your pond.

The Pros and Cons of Algae in Ponds

green pond waterAlgae are single-celled organisms that thrive in warm, nutrient-rich water. In an outdoor pond, algae are an essential part of the food chain. Algae subsist on the waste produced by your fish and, in turn, become a food source for your fish. In limited quantities, algae can enhance the appearance of your pond by giving it a more natural look but if it grows out of control algae can cover the surfaces in your pond with a green or brown slime. In addition to this slimy muck, algae can also turn your pond water an unsightly shade of green. This may reduce the clarity of your pond water and make it more difficult for you to view your fish. In addition to the aesthetic problems induced by its growth, algae can also deplete the oxygen supply in your pond water which will make it a stressful environment for your fish.

Factors that Contribute to Algae Growth

Like any aquatic plant, algae require nutrients to grow and if your pond provides an abundance of these nutrients you may experience a problem with algae. Organic matter and uneaten fish food settle at the bottom of your pond which will, over time, result in a build-up of ammonia and nitrate on which algae can feed. Direct sunlight is another contributing factor in the growth of algae so if your pond is not shaded by trees you may have trouble with algae. Though it can be harmful to your pond if too much algae is allowed to grow, most ponds experience a “bloom” of algae in the spring. In most cases, your pond will find its balance after a few weeks and return to its normal clarity.

Tips for Controlling Algae

Installing an adequate filtration system in your pond is an easy way to limit the growth of algae. Many pond filters utilize chemical filtration which helps to remove the wastes and toxins that would otherwise provide a food source for algae. Adding aquatic plants to your pond is another easy solution because plants will compete with algae for the same nutrients, thus limiting the potential for algae to grow and spread.  Introducing some floating plants like water lilies may also help to control algae growth by cooling the water and providing shade.

In addition to these measures, adding an EcoBio-Block Wave or nsM to your outdoor pond can be effective in clarifying the water and reducing algae growth. EcoBio-Blocks are made from natural zeolite and special cement that has been infused with special beneficial bacteria. Once the block has been installed in your pond it will release bacteria regularly which will work to break down organic waste into ammonia, then nitrites and then into nitrates. EcoBio-Block keeps water healthy which discourages the growth of algae. It also appears to encourage the growth of anaerobic bacteria, which changes nitrates (on which bacteria feed) to nitrogen gas. This product is a simple way to control algae and a great way to keep your pond water clean and clear with no extra effort required on your part.

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November 13, 2011 at 9:48 PM Comments (0)

Why Biological Filtration Is Important

Aquarium bio-filters

Aquarium bio-filters

If you are new to the hobby of aquariums, you may have run across the term “biological filtration” quite a few times while you read about and researched your leisure pursuit choice. If that is so, you have probably wondered why biological filtration is important to the health of your freshwater fish. You may already have a biological filter on your freshwater tank. If you have chosen an under-gravel filter or a wet-dry filter, then guess what is filtering your aquarium water? That is right – a biological filter!

Aquarium filters all do the same thing. They have the job of removing any sort of decaying organic matter from the water. This could be leftover fish food, chemicals, live plants that have died, or waste products that are passed by the fish. There are two other types of filters that can be used along with a biological filter. These are mechanical filtration and chemical filtration. Mechanical filtration can be used to keep the water crystal clear. Chemical filtration can help to remove toxins that may be in your tap water, or any form of medication you may have placed in the tank.

Biological filtration can definitely help the aquarium lover keep a well-maintained tank without a lot of effort. With biological filtration, you are introducing bacteria into the tank water. These are friendly bacteria that help to change the waste products produced by the fish into substances that are not as toxic to the fish. Without this type of filtration, no one would be able to keep fish without very frequent water changes, which would be quite time consuming. The toxins would build up in the water otherwise, and your fish would die off, one by one.

One biological filtration product that is effective and easy-to-use is the EcoBio-Block. Simply place a block in your tank, sit back, and watch as your tank water clears up and stays clear. Marvel as you check your tank’s ammonia and nitrate/nitrite levels, and find the amounts are so low that that they are practically non-existent. You will find that the need to vacuum the gravel in the bottom of your tank has lessened considerably.

Your test results will reassure you that those frequent partial water changes are no longer needed for your aquarium. Cycling a new freshwater tank is a breeze with an EcoBio-Block product! This is possibly one of the easiest aquarium products you will ever use. There is no measuring, no mixing of chemicals. All you do is place an EcoBio-Block in your aquarium. They are made to be unobtrusive, and look like actual rocks while they are working for you. One EcoBio-Block can last up to two years before it needs to be replaced.

Instead of buying all sorts of things to clear the water and normalize the water chemistry of your tank, let biological filtration do its thing in your tank! Seeing is believing and once you see the difference in how your aquarium looks, you will understand why biological filtration is important.

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December 10, 2009 at 10:00 PM Comments (0)

Green Water in Aquariums

Aquarium with Green Algae

Aquarium with Green Algae

Of all the irritating and unpleasant things that can happen to an aquarist, nothing is more likely to ruin his disposition and destroy his faith in the essentially benign purposes of nature than green water, particularly when it occurs, as it usually does, in a tank he is especially proud of or for some reason wants to watch closely.

The writer recalls vividly his own initial experience with this condition. He observed one morning that the water in his prize aquarium had lost its usual transparency. The next day it had a slightly green tinge. By the end of the week the contents of the tank had completely disappeared in a fog of pea soup, which the strongest light would not pierce. Hoping the condition was temporary and would clear itself up, he postponed doing anything about it, as the tank was a large one and cleaning it out would be no small job.

Finally deciding that further waiting was hopeless, he drew off all the water he could without removing about a hundred and fifty fish and replaced it with clear water. The improvement that resulted lasted only a few hours, and three days later the condition was worse than ever.

On the advice of more experienced friends the light was then cut down. The only result, after forty-eight hours, was to bring the fish to the surface gasping for air. Salt was added, likewise on the advice of friends. Effect-none. Other suggested remedies were tried without any improvement whatever, and finally the tank had to be cleaned out completely, washed, replanted and gotten off to a new start.

Following this experience an investigation was made which disclosed the following interesting facts:
Water everywhere in indoor aquariums as well as outdoor ponds, etc., is constantly receiving air borne spores of algae, yeasts, molds and other bacteria. When the water contains appreciable percentages of dissolved or suspended organic matter, the spores develop into bacteria, which break down this matter into its component salts. These salts are the food of plants, and when there is sufficient actively growing plant life in the aquarium the salts are absorbed by the plants practically as fast as they are formed. Under these conditions an aquarium is “balanced” and the water remains sweet and clear indefinitely.

When, however, the salts referred to are formed faster than the plants can absorb them, the algae spores (which in effect are microscopic plant seeds) find a foothold and tiny microscopic plants which swim about in the water develop in prodigious numbers. These algae take up the excess salts and keep the water sweet, but unfortunately they also create an unsightly appearance. Moreover they compete with the higher plants in the aquarium, robbing them of both food and light. In time the higher plants will succumb, leaving the algae in full possession.

It will be seen therefore that the development of green water arises in the first place from an unbalanced condition in the aquarium. The decay and dissolution of an undue quantity of uneaten food, dead snails, fish, plant leaves, excrement, etc., leads to a high bacterial content (indicated by cloudy or ill smelling water) which produces more food than can be consumed by the plant life present in the tank. The algae step in and the tank becomes green.

Cutting down the light kills the algae, removing the effect without touching the cause. This is true of any other remedy which merely kills the algae. The sudden death and rapid decomposition of a quantity of algae may foul the tank and kill the fish. The only logical, safe and permanent remedy for green water is to reduce the amount of decomposing organic matter in the tank or increase the number of plants. This means:

  1. Find out whether the excess is caused by too many fish.
  2. If not, watch your feeding and siphon off the bottom dirt more frequently.

Close attention and careful monitoring of your tank conditions should keep your aquarium clear and algae free. Products that increase beneficial bacteria in your tank, like the EcoBio-Block will help to keep your tank water “balanced” for 1.5 to 2 years and are added protection against “algae bloom”.

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May 21, 2009 at 4:07 PM Comments (0)

Cyanobacteria in the Aquarium: What It Is and How to Get Rid of It

cyanobacteriaweb3One of the biggest challenges for aquarium owners is an outbreak of single celled organisms called cyanobacteria. They are casually referred to as blue-green algae because they are typically bluish green in color (although sometimes black or red) and aquatic; they are, in fact, microscopic bacteria that, when prolific, form into shiny sheets that look like algae.

Cyanobacteria also act like algae because they create their own food through photosynthesis. Given enough light and nutrients in the water, cyanobacteria can cause a bacterial bloom that can lead to major problems in the aquarium.

A cyanobacterial bloom may be free-floating greenish brown particles that make the water look hazy. The bacteria may also colonize into ugly films of slimy looking growth covering rocks and plants in the aquarium. Uncontrolled, a bacterial bloom can gather into foam or scum on the surface of the tank and give off a nasty rotten smell. At any rate, the proliferation of cyanobacteria is an indication that the nutrients that feed it – organic matter and waste products – are excessive in the water, which can only mean that the fish are in grave danger.

Cyanobacteria problems can be prevented with good fishkeeping conditions and attentive maintenance. In the event that a cyanobacterial bloom occurs, several steps can be taken, the first of which is to reduce the amount of light exposure in the tank. Because cyanobacteria thrive through photosynthesis, depriving them of light curtails their growth.

Together with reduced lighting, an effective way to fight cyanobacteria is consecutive water changes. Water changes up to 20% every three to four days will reduce the concentration of phosphates and waste material that feed the cyanobacteria. Test kits for nitrates and cyanobacteria are helpful in determining when healthy levels have been achieved. And to prevent future problems, it is best to maintain the aquarium with just the right number of fish, highly efficient filtration, and no over-feedings.

At times, though, cyanobacterial bloom can be unrelenting enough to defy light deprivation and water changes. Some fishkeepers resort to antibacterial chemicals, which could be equally detrimental to fishes and plants. A greener, more eco-friendly solution is the EcoBio-Block Family Products, originally designed and currently being used to degrade toxins and pollutants from lakes, streams, and reservoirs in many Asian countries.

EcoBio-Blocks, EcoBio-Rocks, EcoBio-Stones, and EcoBio-Pebbles are porous, mineral-rich volcanic stones from Japan. They are embedded with prolific beneficial bacteria (“bacillus subtilis natto”) that can actively multiply every half hour into colonies that degrade organic matter and nitrify waste products in the water. Because they degrade the organic matter that feeds cyanobacteria, the internet radio show Pet Fish Talk feels strongly that EcoBio-Block helped clear up their cyanobacteria problem. (click hear the Special Pet Fish Talk titled “Cyanobacteria”)

Cyanobacteria cannot be totally eliminated from the aquarium. Overgrowth and its toxic consequences, however, can be prevented with optimum water conditions through diligent aquarium maintenance together with proven eco-friendly solutions like the EcoBio-Block products.
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May 7, 2009 at 2:59 PM Comments (0)

Defeating the Green Monster: Controlling Green Water in Your Aquarium

Green water is a nasty problem in many aquariums; one day you have a gorgeous, crystal-clear tank and the next day you wake up to an aquarium of opaque green. This condition is caused by a free-floating algae bloom, and it really can go from no problem at all to being able to see absolutely nothing inside the aquarium overnight. So what do you do about it?

As with most things, the best cure is prevention. Green water occurs when an aquarium is overstocked or has too much decaying organic matter in it. This process creates an excess of nitrates and other nutrients that feed the algae. Once all the right environmental factors are in place, the algae takes over quickly and mercilessly. The key is to keep nitrates down and the water parameters healthy for the fish.

You can start by ensuring you’re not over-feeding your fish. A fish in the wild can never be certain where its next meal is coming from, so its metabolism has adapted into that of an opportunistic eater. Healthy fish will always be hungry, so you can not simply feed them until they stop eating. Give your fish just enough that it takes them about two minutes to eat all the food twice a day (three times if you have juveniles); if you see uneaten food get to the bottom, cut back a little.

Next, make sure you have good mechanical filtration and a well-aerated tank. For additional preventative, you can use a time-released water maintenance product such as EcoBio-Block. These blocks last up to two years apiece and ensure that the water in the aquarium stays perfectly balanced by breaking down the toxic ammonia and nitrites from waste and excess food, as well as re-supplying essential minerals in the water as they’re used up by the fish.

Many aquarists believe that direct sunlight is the main cause of green water and this is not true. While direct sunlight should be avoided because of its effects on the water temperature, algae can not bloom without quite a bit of excess nutrients in the water. It is true that algae can not grow without light as well, but the algae requires very little light for its photosynthesis; once it’s started, any tiny bit of natural light that reaches the aquarium will be sufficient to continue its growth.

Live plants are great for helping get rid of excess nitrates and there are many hardy varieties that will use up a lot of the spare nitrates that algae blooms feed on. In most cases you’ll want to keep an eye on the plants so dead pieces can be removed before they start to decay, however this is not a problem if you have an EcoBio-Block or adult P. bridgesii (a type of apple snail commonly sold in pet stores), or “brigs”. Brigs grow to about the size of golf balls, lay their eggs above the water line so population control is easy, and as adults never eat healthy plants. Be certain you have an adult before you introduce it into a planted tank, though, because the juveniles are still able (and very willing!) to eat healthy plants. If you decide on snails, do a little research first. P. canaliculata, or “canas”, can look very similar to brigs if you aren’t familiar with them, and canas grow to the size of a softball and will always have a voracious appetite for live plants.

Regular partial water changes are required to keep the nitrates down and remove organic material from the aquarium. Again, if you have a time-released product such as EcoBio-Block this is not necessary, though occasionally stirring your substrate to get rid of potentially harmful gas pockets and to send organic materials through your mechanical filter is recommended. If the water is kept in pristine condition, you will not have a problem with green water.

Finally, once you have green water it is difficult and time-consuming to get rid of. You can begin by restricting light, even covering the outside of the aquarium with paper to keep additional light out, and do a partial water change to get rid of some of the excess nutrients. Note that the water changes in themselves will do nothing to get rid of the algae, it reproduces quickly and can only be gotten rid of through “starvation”. Cut back your fish’s food and leave the tank light off for the duration of the clearing time. It may take a couple of weeks to clear up.

As soon as the tank is clear, immediately take some of the preventative measures outlined above to avoid re-occurrence. I especially recommend ensuring that you have a good mechanical filter, plenty of aeration to keep beneficial bacteria healthy, and a time-released maintenance product to ensure the water is always as close to perfect as possible.

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September 27, 2008 at 7:51 PM Comments (0)