Aquarium and Pond Care with EcoBio-Block

By Robert Paul Hudson

Did you know there are ways to promote the growth of healthy nitrifying bacteria in the aquarium and things to avoid which will adversely affect bacteria?

There are many strains of the nitrifying bacteria species and each may have varying tolerances, but in general, the following information applies to all of them:

Temperature

Temperature plays a role in the growth rate of bacteria.

• 77-86° F (25-30° C)  is the temperature for optimum growth of nitrifying bacteria
• At 64° F (18° C) the growth rate is decreased by 50%
• At 46-50° F. Growth rate is decreased by 75%
• No activity will occur at 39° F (4° C)
• Nitrifying bacteria will die at 32° F (0° C).
• Nitrifying bacteria will die at 120° F (49° C)

In cold water systems, careful attention should be given to monitor the levels of nitrite.

pH

The optimum pH range for Nitrosomonas is between 7.8-8.0, and for Nitrobacter is between 7.3-7.5. Below these ranges growth is slowed down. All nitrification ceases at a pH of 6.0 or lower. Ammonia levels should be closely monitored at a pH of 6.5 or lower.

Dissolved Oxygen

Oxygen levels have a direct effect on nitrifying bacteria. At very low levels the bacteria basically become inactive.  The bacteria reach their highest level of nitrification when dissolved oxygen levels reach 80% saturation.

Micronutrients

Just like plant life, bacteria need nutrients to feed on for energy and growth. Many micronutrients are used by bacteria including phosphorus which plays an important role in the conversion of ATP to energy for cellular functions. Phosphorus is usually present in the form of phosphate in tap water and from decaying fish foods or other decaying organic material, but if your aquarium has no measurable level of phosphate it would be a good idea to introduce a small amount by way of phosphoric acid, mono-sodium phosphate or di-sodium phosphate.

Other micronutrients, (minerals) are normally found in ample levels in tap water. RO, deionized, or distilled water that is completely stripped of all minerals is inhibitory to nitrifying bacteria. It is important if using this type of water to replenish the water with mineral salts for the overall health of the aquatic system.

You can use products like the EcoBio-Block line, which contain special beneficial bacteria (bacillus subtilis natto) that are already packaged with the micronutrients they need to keep levels of good bacteria high and cloudy water and odor non-existent. These bacterium can survive from the strong acid of pH 3 to the strong alkali of pH 11, and are active in temperatures from 50° F to 149° F.

Nitrifying bacteria play an important role in keeping a healthy and balanced aquarium, but are also dependent on a balanced environment in order to function and grow- as all life is.

You’ve spent a lot of money and time picking out the right fish for your aquarium and you think you’ve got it just right. Then you start losing some valuable fish. How does this happen and what can you do to prevent this tragedy?

There can be a lot of reasons why your fish are dying. Generally, it happens when a fish tank is new. It pays to buy an aquarium water test kit to determine how much ammonia, nitrites and nitrates are in the aquarium, and how high or low the pH is. These are the four most important tests for your tank.

In the nitrogen cycle of the fish tank, an important biological cycle, the fish give off nitrogenous wastes when they eliminate and these products break down into ammonia, which is very toxic to most fishes. In aquariums, this nitrogen product can build up into levels that are harmful to your fish. When you measure the ammonia level, it should be negligible.

The nitrogen cycle, is the process of getting rid of ammonia using nitrifying bacteria that convert the ammonia to nitrite and then to nitrate, which is not as hazardous. The cycle goes from ammonia to nitrite to nitrate. These bacteria are present everywhere and establish themselves eventually in your fish tank as soon as the ammonia builds up. It is a slow process, however, and you can lose fish in the meantime.

One way of improving the nitrogen status of your aquarium is to purchase an EcoBio-Block Products that contains the nitrifying bacteria within the block. You rinse the block and soak it in chlorine free water over night before placing it in your tank. Normally, in a few weeks or so, you can have your ammonia levels drop followed by drops in nitrite levels. You can safely put your fish in then and expect that they will survive.

The other thing is to take a couple of hardy and cheap fish and put them in your tank. Don’t overfeed the fish. More food means that more ammonia will build up. For freshwater fish, try some zebra danios or some barbs. For saltwater tanks, use damselfish. Don’t use feeder fish for your tank as they can introduce unwanted diseases in your tank. The initial cheap fish you put into the tank get the nitrogen cycle going and you can then add more delicate and expensive fish to your tank.

Use your test kit to determine the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate level in your tank and use this as a guide for how healthy your tank is. It takes time for the bacteria to develop unless you are using a EcoBio-Stone to speed up the nitrification process.

Poor pH can also be a cause of a loss of fish. The pH is a measure of how acidic or how alkaline a fish tank is. Ideally, the pH should be around 7.0, which is “neutral”. However, fish can generally tolerate pH of 5.5 to 8.0. You can get a test strip to measure the level and if you need to change it, look at ways to change the pH slowly.

If your water contains buffers, you will not be able to change the pH very easily. Remember, too, that fish can tolerate a wide range of pH levels but do not tolerate sudden changes in pH.  Sometimes it’s better to leave the pH alone as long as your fish are thriving.

If you still think you need to adjust the pH, one way to lower it slowly is to add some driftwood to your fish tank or to the tank. A cleaned off seashell or coral skeleton will gradually increase the pH of your aquarium. The downside of both these solutions is that they will stain the color of the water brown or yellow for quite a while, but it will alter the pH in a safe way.

Maintain your tank well and you can have a healthy, happy fish population.

Cloudy Aquarium Water

One of the most common challenges of keeping an aquarium is cloudy water. Whether the cloudiness is green, white, or gray, a fish habitat that is short of crystal clear is not just an eyesore but also a serious health risk for its inhabitants. Why does the water turn cloudy and what can you do about it?

Grayish or dirty white water is often encountered when setting up a new tank. In most cases, a sand or gravel substrate that has not been diligently rinsed before setup will generate sufficient debris to fog the water. The only solution would be to re-rinse the substrate until all the debris is removed. An efficient mechanical filter will also help take care of minute floating particles.

Green water, which is oftentimes also thick and hazy, is caused by an “algae bloom” or the rapid growth of microscopic green algae. High and prolonged levels of bright light are the main causes of green algae growth and proliferation. If a tank gets direct sunlight or if the overhead lighting is left on for more than 10-12 hours a day, algae overgrowth becomes imminent. The simple solution is to locate the tank away from direct sunlight and attach a timer to the overhead lights so that the ideal light exposure cycles can be maintained.

Milky white water that sometimes gives off a rotten smell is caused by decay. Uneaten leftover food deteriorates and fouls up the water. An overstocked aquarium will render filtration systems and nitrifying bacteria inadequate to handle the bio-load. The result is pollution from rotting food and excess waste, making the water murky. In severe pollution situations, drastic water changes may be necessary.

Cloudy aquarium water caused by decaying food can be prevented by feeding only as much as the fish community can consume in three to five minutes. Leftover food should be scooped out.

Murky water caused by excess waste products can be prevented by maintaining a balanced tank with a population of fishes suitable for the size of the tank and the capacity of the filtration systems. This ensures that the filters and the colonies of beneficial bacteria can keep up with the bio-load of the community.

In effect, cloudy water can be minimized if adequate colonies of beneficial bacteria are present to break down the harmful ammonia and nitrites (from decaying food and excess waste matter) into less harmful nitrates. Experts have suggested adding gravel from established aquariums to supplement the insufficient bacterial colonies in a cloudy tank. One simple solution is to add an EcoBio-Block product to the tank.

The EcoBio-Block Family Products are mineral-rich porous volcanic stones from Japan embedded with prolific bacteria (“bacillus subtilis natto”) that can actively multiply every half hour. The bacteria establish colonies quickly, degrading organic matter and nitrifying waste products, and keeping the aquarium clear, odor-free and healthy for years.

Cloudy aquarium water, which causes stress to the fish community, should never have to happen. Feed just the right amount of food, keep a population of fish suitable to the tank size and filtration system, and add a bacteria enhancing product like EcoBio-Block, and you are assured of crystal clear water and healthy fishes all the time.

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