Aquarium and Pond Care with EcoBio-Block

The health of your saltwater aquarium is critical to the survival of your fish and corals. While feeding your fish, some tasks like observing the quality of the water, topping off the water, and checking the water temperature should be done on a daily basis. There are also other tasks you must do on a regular basis to ensure the health of your saltwater aquarium.

How often you will need to perform extensive cleaning will depend on what type of filter system you have.  Filter systems such as Jaubert/Plenum and true Berlin Live Rock don’t require much maintenance, but systems such as canister filters and Wet-Dry Trickle require much more attention.  The specific factors that will determine how often you need to clean your aquarium tank include the following:

• The amount and type of food you feed to your fish.
• The type of filtration that you use.
• The biological load that is on your filtration system.
• Whether you use tank janitors or not.
• How often you use toxin-reducing products like phosphate and nitrate.

Monitoring weekly water tests will also help you determine whether you need to perform cleaning tasks on your tank more often or less often. One way to simplify your maintenance needs is to use EcoBio-Block products. Made of natural zeolite, the blocks contain beneficial bacteria which live and multiply in the block. Dispersing into the water, they break down organic waste and keep your tank clear and healthy. Then all you need to do is observe and take note of certain conditions in your tank to determine how often you need to clean it.

In regards to your fish, you should observe the following:

• Their color, eyes, and fins.
• Their movements in the tank.
• How much food they are consuming.
• Whether they appear to have parasites or not.

In regards to your invertebrates, observe the following:

• Their movements in the tank.
• How much food they are consuming.

Observe the following when it comes to your corals:

• Their color.
• Whether they are open or not.

Here is what to note about the water in your tank:

• The movement of the water.
• The clearness of the water.

In regards to the tank janitors:

• Their effectiveness in cleaning the aquarium
• Their activity.

When observing the substrate:

• Check for the presence of algae.
• See if there is debris, such as uneaten food and detritus.

You should be testing your water parameters at least once per week.  If you notice slight changes in some of your tests, that is usually normal, but keep an eye on them to make sure that they are not the start of some trends that could affect the health of your aquarium.

What are the water parameters you should be keeping track of?

• Temperature
• pH
• Alkalinity
• Salinity
• Ammonia
• Nitrite
• Nitrate
• Calcium
• Iodine
• Phosphate

You should know what the Normal Sea Water (NSW) values are (consult a table that lists these, such as the one found here:  http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/planasystem/ig/Guide-Charts–Tables–Diagrams/Major-Elements-in-Saltwater-.htm) and what the target water test levels (again, consult a table that lists these, such as the one found here:  http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/planasystem/ig/Guide-Charts–Tables–Diagrams/Target-Water-Values.htm).

There might be times when you decide that a major cleaning of your aquarium must be done. It takes a fair amount of time to do it properly, but after you’ve done it a few times, you’ll be able to lessen the time it takes to do it each time.

You should start from the inside of your tank and work outwards. Place some towels on the floor so that any water that spills out does not damage your floor (remember that the water is saltwater, not freshwater, which can increase the chances of the water damaging your floor). Scrub the algae from the submerged equipment and tank walls.  Siphon the clean substrate. Change the water. Top off the new water with new (pre-mixed) saltwater. Test the parameters that were not normal originally and record the new results.  Add supplements if necessary to adjust the levels to appropriate readings.Next, you should deal with your filtration system. Remove debris from the bottom of your sump. Either clean or change the material of the mechanical filter. Check your adsorbents and see if they need to be cleaned or even changed. You should clean your biological filter material by rinsing it in saltwater. Empty your protein skimmer’s collection cup and adjust the water and air flow as needed. You should clean around your light bulbs and fixtures. Replace old bulbs as necessary.

You should make sure that your pumps are free of blockages, cleaning the filters as necessary. You should also check the hose connections to make sure that they are operating at their full capabilities. You should also clean the salt creep (or salt crystals that are behind when saltwater is spilled somewhere and the fresh water evaporates).

Check the amount of debris in your mechanical filter to get a better idea of whether you need to do major cleanings more or less often. When a mechanical filter becomes clogged and overworked, contaminants will either go around the filter material or be forced through the filter, which will only further decrease the effectiveness of your filter.

By keeping a record of your observations, you can adjust how often you perform major maintenance tasks on your saltwater aquarium tank. By following the advice in this article and keeping a regular maintenance schedule, you can have and maintain a healthy saltwater aquarium tank.

If you plan on turning your freshwater aquarium into a saltwater aquarium, you are likely wondering if the equipment you already have can be used to create that saltwater aquarium or if you have to get brand new equipment. We will examine the individual components to see what you can continue to use and what you must replace. First, we will check out the aquarium itself.

Aquariums are not designed only to be used as either a freshwater tank or a saltwater tank; most aquariums can be used for either. The glass or acrylic material that makes up the structure of the aquarium certainly applies to both freshwater and saltwater aquarium tanks. The silicone adhesive that is used in construction is also applicable to both freshwater and saltwater aquariums.

The one main difference between freshwater and saltwater tanks is that freshwater tanks tend to be considerably smaller than their saltwater counterparts. While a 5-gallon freshwater tank can theoretically be transformed into a saltwater tank, small saltwater tanks are often harder to work with, which is why many experienced saltwater aquarists suggest that you use no smaller than a 55-gallon tank for your saltwater aquarium.

Regarding the filtration of your aquarium, filtration is a little more involved when it comes to saltwater aquariums, since biological filtration is an especially critical component in a saltwater aquarium. Freshwater aquarium owners can choose to use a biowheel and box that hangs on the outside of the tank or in a corner of the tank for filtration needs, but a saltwater tank usually needs more filtration than that which these types of filters can provide. While undergravel filter (UGF) set-ups can be used in saltwater aquariums, they can contribute to unwanted nitrate problems in later years, which is why many saltwater aquarium owners prefer wet-dry trickle and canister type filters that have bio-media chambers.

There is no set choice for a filter to be used in a saltwater aquarium; your best bet is to research the various filtration methods and set-ups, than choose the one that you feel will work best for your aquarium.  You can usually help to narrow your decision by deciding whether you will have a fish-only aquarium or a reef tank system, though filters that are used for reef tank systems can also be used for fish-only aquariums, so you can save money and hassle by purchasing filters that will work with reef tank systems even if you only initially plan on having fish in your saltwater aquarium.

Regarding pumps and powerheads, most freshwater pumps can work well in saltwater aquariums, provided that they are rated as safe to use in saltwater. The main difference between freshwater and saltwater aquariums is that saltwater aquariums use more pumps and powerheads to obtain greater movement and circulation in the water. This can be especially beneficial to the health of corals.

Many freshwater aquarium owners use large-sized gravel or rock material to provide the biological filter base. However, this does not work well in a saltwater tank, as the substrate that is used in saltwater tanks should have high natural levels of calcium content that originates in the ocean. One solution that you can use in both freshwater and saltwater aquariums is ONEdersave’s EcoBio-Block® aquarium products. Their EcoBio-Stone™ L works especially well in larger saltwater tanks, as it is made to be used in 16 to 100 gallons of water.

The lighting used for freshwater tanks can work with fish-only saltwater tanks, though the light hood may not stand up well to the corrosive effects of saltwater, plus it will not hold MH, PC, or VHO lighting.  You certainly need to change the lighting if you plan on having a reef system. It is important that you carefully research exactly what you need for your aquarium before heading out to your local fish store so that you don’t buy unnecessary or inadequate equipment.

You will definitely need to change the decorations in your tank if you plan to convert from freshwater to saltwater, as most saltwater fish are grazers, and if you leave decorations that are made of plastic, your saltwater fish could have their digestive tracks shut down from eating such items. You should place either live rock or non-living or synthetic decorative rocks and corals in your saltwater aquarium.

The heater for your freshwater tank will likely suffice for your saltwater tank, provided that it is safe to use in saltwater tanks. You will need to use a different test kit, however, since the chemicals used in freshwater test kits are entirely different from those found in saltwater test kits.

In conclusion, some equipment from your freshwater aquarium will work well with your new saltwater aquarium, but some equipment will have to be replaced. By doing some careful research online and in saltwater aquarium books, along with the information in this article, you should be able to transform your freshwater aquarium into a saltwater aquarium quickly and at relatively little cost.

gravel siphone

One of the first tidbits of information many new aquarium owners get, often has to do with partial water changes. It is important to be aware of the importance of partial water changes for your freshwater aquarium. However, doing this tank maintenance the wrong way can be just as bad, or worse, than not doing anything at all about changing the water.

Many beginners think tank maintenance means that twice a month, you take out the fish, drain the water, take out the gravel and anything else in the tank, and wash everything except the fish thoroughly! This is rather extreme, and unfortunately, anyone who practices this method will be out of the fish hobby very quickly.

A partial water change takes place when you change a part of the water in your aquarium on a regular basis. The key word here is part. So many novice owners will take out half of the water or more, add back fresh water, and not bother to add any sort of water conditioner. Then they wonder why they usually have a fish death or two after each water change! Novices have been known to exclaim knowingly to others that changing the water in an aquarium will kill your fish!

Nothing could be further from the truth, but unless you know how to change the water properly, it could seem to be true. Your fish may seem to thrive without regular water changes and proper tank maintenance, but they will more than likely be very stressed due to the poor conditions they must live in.

How do you know when it is time to perform this sort of maintenance on your aquarium? Generally, aquarium hobbyists to prevent a drop in the water’s pH, or a spike of the nitrate values will change the water every week or so. If the sides of your tank have started to collect algae, this is another sign that a partial water change is needed. By paying close attention to the appearance of your aquarium, subtle changes are more easily seen.

So, how do we do these partial water changes, and do them correctly? You will need certain equipment to do this job. It is best to have a tool called a gravel siphon to help to drain the water and clean up part of the substrate at the same time. You will also need a couple of buckets, water conditioner, and a scrubbing pad made just for aquarium use.

How much water should be taken from the tank during a partial water change? Most of those who have experience in maintaining fish tanks will say that no more than one-fourth of the total amount of water in the aquarium should be removed. Of course, if you have gone too long between water changes, you may well have to remove more than this amount. This is why it is important to do these changes on a regular basis. Removing too much water stresses out the fish, and also upsets the bacterial balance of the water, which contributes to the stress felt by the fish.

That is why the addition of an EcoBio-Block to your aquarium is one of the best things you can do. The EcoBio-Block not only keeps the tank water crystal clear, but also establishes a friendly and beneficial bacterium that will multiply freely for about two years. Other nutrients and minerals are added to the water as well. You do not have to worry about the bacterial balance with an EcoBio-Block product! This product also dramatically decreases the number of times you will need to do a partial water change and vacuum the gravel. The water stays clean and clear, with no discernable odor, and you have saved both time and money. Using the EcoBio-Block can give the novice to the world of aquariums a good feeling about his new hobby.

How to prepare your aquarium before you leave for a vacation.

If you’ve been doing some research on taking care of your new aquarium or are an experienced fish keeper, you’ll no doubt have noticed that while the requirements of an aquarium are not very difficult to fulfill, they do require ongoing attention. So what happens if you want to go on vacation and no one will be around to do water changes? What if there’s a family emergency that takes your time and attention for extended periods of time? Life is so unpredictable you can never be absolutely certain that you’ll always be there to look after your fish, but with a few alterations to your daily aquarium care schedule you can effectively switch to a temporary “low-maintenance” mode.

The primary concern with extended absences or emergency situations where there’s just no time to perform aquarium maintenance tasks is the water quality. Depending on stocking levels, aquariums need a partial water change anywhere from once a month to as often as once a week. If you’re like me, you barely trust anyone else to feed your fish, much less perform water changes, so the ideal solution is to find a way to maintain water quality for extended periods until you can resume your normal maintenance routine.

Water changes are done to remove excess nitrates in the system; nitrate is the end product after ammonia and nitrites from waste and uneaten food have been broken down by beneficial bacteria. If you wish to slow the rate of nitrate buildup, you simply have to reduce the amount of waste and uneaten food in the aquarium; when you’re not able to do water changes, this means feeding less. In the wild there is no guarantee of getting regular food; as a result a fish’s metabolism is such that the fish can take advantage of food when it is offered but can also live for days or weeks with very little or no food without it having an adverse effect on the fish’s health. So, option one is to cut back to only feeding the fish once every two or three days; this won’t completely stop the level of nitrates from growing, but it will help slow it.

Next, you can use a water maintenance product such as EcoBio-Block in your aquarium. EcoBio-Block contains a strain of hardy beneficial bacteria that break down the ammonia and nitrites from waste. Additionally, the product leaches essential minerals into the water; these minerals are used up quickly by the fish and generally need to be replaced through water changes unless a water maintenance product is present. There is also evidence indicating that EcoBio-Block helps promote the growth of anaerobic bacteria in the substrate which breaks nitrates down into a gas that can evaporate, making water changes unnecessary. There haven’t been sufficient studies to confirm this yet, but aquarists have observed low nitrate levels and have been able to go for even a year at a time without doing a partial water change. Organic material such as waste and excess food will still need to be removed either through the filtration system or gravel vacuums, but that can be done at your leisure.

Other than ensuring water quality, about the only maintenance routine that must be seen to regardless of outside events are occasional checks to ensure there is no disease showing in the tank, no deaths for any reason, that filter pads are clean and all equipment are running properly.
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