Aquarium Care and EcoBio-Block

gravel siphone

One of the first tidbits of information many new aquarium owners get, often has to do with partial water changes. It is important to be aware of the importance of partial water changes for your freshwater aquarium. However, doing this tank maintenance the wrong way can be just as bad, or worse, than not doing anything at all about changing the water.

Many beginners think tank maintenance means that twice a month, you take out the fish, drain the water, take out the gravel and anything else in the tank, and wash everything except the fish thoroughly! This is rather extreme, and unfortunately, anyone who practices this method will be out of the fish hobby very quickly.

A partial water change takes place when you change a part of the water in your aquarium on a regular basis. The key word here is part. So many novice owners will take out half of the water or more, add back fresh water, and not bother to add any sort of water conditioner. Then they wonder why they usually have a fish death or two after each water change! Novices have been known to exclaim knowingly to others that changing the water in an aquarium will kill your fish!

Nothing could be further from the truth, but unless you know how to change the water properly, it could seem to be true. Your fish may seem to thrive without regular water changes and proper tank maintenance, but they will more than likely be very stressed due to the poor conditions they must live in.

How do you know when it is time to perform this sort of maintenance on your aquarium? Generally, aquarium hobbyists to prevent a drop in the water’s pH, or a spike of the nitrate values will change the water every week or so. If the sides of your tank have started to collect algae, this is another sign that a partial water change is needed. By paying close attention to the appearance of your aquarium, subtle changes are more easily seen.

So, how do we do these partial water changes, and do them correctly? You will need certain equipment to do this job. It is best to have a tool called a gravel siphon to help to drain the water and clean up part of the substrate at the same time. You will also need a couple of buckets, water conditioner, and a scrubbing pad made just for aquarium use.

How much water should be taken from the tank during a partial water change? Most of those who have experience in maintaining fish tanks will say that no more than one-fourth of the total amount of water in the aquarium should be removed. Of course, if you have gone too long between water changes, you may well have to remove more than this amount. This is why it is important to do these changes on a regular basis. Removing too much water stresses out the fish, and also upsets the bacterial balance of the water, which contributes to the stress felt by the fish.

That is why the addition of an EcoBio-Block to your aquarium is one of the best things you can do. The EcoBio-Block not only keeps the tank water crystal clear, but also establishes a friendly and beneficial bacterium that will multiply freely for about two years. Other nutrients and minerals are added to the water as well. You do not have to worry about the bacterial balance with an EcoBio-Block product! This product also dramatically decreases the number of times you will need to do a partial water change and vacuum the gravel. The water stays clean and clear, with no discernable odor, and you have saved both time and money. Using the EcoBio-Block can give the novice to the world of aquariums a good feeling about his new hobby.

Ammonia Test

What are some of the common problems with aquarium water chemistry? Many times, beginners to the aquarium hobby are uncertain as to what steps they need to take in order to get their tank off to a good start.

No matter how clear and sparkling that water may look in your new aquarium, do not be fooled! Remember that looks can frequently be deceptive. Many new owners think that it could not possibly hurt to go ahead and add some fish to their new aquarium setup once they have added the water. After all, it looks so clean and pure!

Wrong. That water you just poured into your tank is full of certain gases that can be toxic to your fish in the right amount. Compressed carbon dioxide gas is present in most city or tap water, along with chlorine, fluoride, and perhaps even some sulfides as well. There are also minerals, heavy metals, and chemicals in this water.

Some of these substances are added by the facilities that treat water in order to make it safe for human consumption. What is safe for a human can be quite unsafe for a fish. You must wait for the water in your aquarium to stabilize before you can add any fish to it. Often, people are advised to place one lone feeder fish in the tank in order to get the beneficial bacteria started up, cycle the tank, and also to see if the water quality is good enough for this fish to live in. While this seems like a good plan, you may be bringing diseases into your tank by doing so. There are much better ways to accomplish this task.

Test kits are available to tell you the condition of your aquarium water. Make sure you get the proper test to match your aquarium water, as the tests for freshwater and saltwater tanks can be a little different. You will want to test your tap water before proceeding to test the tank water. That first test will give you a baseline of sorts. Knowing the parameters of your tap water and comparing them to the parameters of your aquarium water can help you to decide if you need to do a partial water change or adjust the water parameters.

What sort of parameters do these kits test the water for? Normally, a simple water test kit will check the pH, Nitrite, Nitrate, Carbonate hardness and General hardness. You can also purchase kits that will test for ammonia. Tanks can be tested for KH or GH as well with a simple home kit. You can purchase products at your pet store to make the proper adjustments.

It does not take much ammonia to be toxic to fish, so the beginner hobbyist should strive to keep the levels in the tank at or near zero. However, during cycling, you will get high ammonia readings until there is enough bacteria in the tank to breakdown the ammonia into safer by-products. During this time, water changes of 10 –20% are suggested to keep the ammonia levels down. Different fish varieties need different pH readings, so a normal level will depend on the type of fish you are keeping. At one time, the only way to test your aquarium water was with a series of test kits and/or test strips. Whenever you suspected a problem, you would need to perform these tests on a daily basis. With the busy lifestyles so many of us have, it could be difficult to schedule this testing.

Fortunately, there is a solution that will save the hobbyist time, effort, and even some cash! The EcoBio-Block family of products can keep your aquarium water safe for your fish. These products contain a good bacteria that can last as long as two years. This bacteria will change ammonia into nitrates, which are safer for fish. Minerals and calcium are added to the water by the block, and the water is kept sparkling clear. Owning and using an EcoBio-Block product is a great way to help you reduce any problems you might have with your aquarium. Common problems with aquarium water chemistry are easily conquered when you are using the right tools.

When you are ready to purchase your first aquarium, one of the first things you learn is how to properly cycle the aquarium and how to slowly introduce new fish to avoid ammonia spikes while the colonies of beneficial bacteria are developing. That’s easy enough to follow — but what about when you have to move an existing community of fish to a new home? Maybe you moved and have to re-establish the aquarium, maybe you’re moving to a larger or even a smaller tank; whatever the reason, there are ways to safely move the fish without as much risk of ammonia spikes.

A properly cycled tank contains a healthy colony of bacteria that breaks down ammonia from a fish’s waste and uneaten food into nitrites and then into nitrates. In a healthy tank, there should be 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites and less than 40ppm nitrates (20ppm if you have invertebrates such as snails or shrimp). Without sufficient amounts of beneficial bacteria, ammonia and nitrite in the water may be fatal to fish.

Beneficial bacteria live all through the water and on every underwater surface in the aquarium, but the water itself carries a very low concentration of bacteria so it’s not very effective to simply transfer water from the old aquarium to the new in order to maintain bacteria levels. Ideally, you will be able to transfer some old filter media to the new aquarium, or even a handful of gravel or fake plants that will all have beneficial bacteria on them. Make sure that the materials of your choice stay wet with tank water until they can be placed in the new aquarium.

Alternatively, if you have EcoBio-Block in your aquarium, that will be sufficient to switch over to the new one. EcoBio-Block has a lot of beneficial bacteria living in its volcanic rock and has quite a bit of surface area so a lot of additional bacteria get transferred over from the established tank. It is not necessary to keep EcoBio-Block wet, but it may help eliminate any minor ammonia spikes that may occur after the transfer as there will be more active bacteria immediately if kept wet. EcoBio-Block will also allow you to wait a little bit longer before doing the first water change as it provides essential minerals that would otherwise have to be replenished through water changes, giving the fish extra time to de-stress after a big move without being bothered.

Make sure not to put whatever bacteria-containing materials you’ve chosen into the new aquarium until a de-chlorinator has been used in the water as chlorine will kill the bacteria. Keep close tabs on the water parameters for the first week after the transfer, doing minor water changes as needed to compensate for any ammonia in the system that may not be compensated for by the bacteria yet. Watch the fish closely for any clamped fins or red, puffy gills as these may be signs that the water parameters are off. If these simple guidelines are followed your fish should have a relatively effortless and healthy move.