Aquarium and Pond Care with EcoBio-Block

Healthy pond with aeration

To maintain a healthy pond, you need to make sure that your pond has good-quality aeration.  A lack of good aeration can lead to a green-colored, algae-filled pond, while good aeration can lead to a crystal-clear and thriving fish pond.

Many kinds of fish require clean, cool, well-oxygenated water.  Water that is not properly aerated will have a low level of dissolved oxygen and will often have stratified water columns, or water that varies in water quality depending on the depth and level of the water.

Finding out the proper level of aeration often takes a trial-and-error approach.  A commonly accepted method of finding the proper aeration is to pump the entire pond through the filter at least once per hour.  This does not guarantee sufficient aeration, however, as the shape, size, and structure of your fish pond could necessitate a different level of aeration in order for the pond to be properly aerated.

An external filter could have the flow returned to the pond using a stream or waterfall.  This can diffuse the current, which can lead to low-flow areas on the opposite side of the pond.  Adding an additional outlet to the flow can usually correct this problem.  Many people will add supplemental flow through an air pump or dedicated pump to ensure proper air flow throughout the entire pond.

Without proper aeration, there will be low dissolved oxygen levels in the water.  If the dissolved oxygen levels are too low, it can cause many problems, with the most dangerous problem being that fish can die if a certain parts per million (ppm) of dissolved oxygen is not maintained.

Additionally, noxious odors can come from the pond when there are low levels of dissolved oxygen in the water.  This is due to the breakdown of organic waste shifting from an aerobic process to a slower anaerobic process, which results in the formation of hydrogen sulfide (that produces the odor).  If the pond is deeper, the lack of oxygen will also create an unusable layer at the bottom of the pond, a place where fish cannot inhabit.  As a result, their living space is reduced and the oxygenated water in that living space is stressed even more because it alone has to sustain the fish.

The most common cause of low oxygen levels is an overabundance of aquatic plants, especially algae.  A moderate number of aquatic plants can be beneficial to the pond because they do release water into the pond.  Planktonic algae are the first step in the food chain of a pond, so their presence is also critical.  However, having too many of them will harm the pond’s environment; while planktonic algae do provide oxygen to the pond during the day, they will also consume oxygen at night.  As a result, heavy algae blooms or thick aquatic vegetation can lead to dangerous low levels of oxygen for the fish, often leading to their deaths.

Poor dissolved oxygen levels also come from high organic waste loads.  Dead vegetation, fertilizer run-off, fish food, and fish waste can all contribute to the amount of organic waste load.  These elements can be naturally broken down in a pond due to the presence of beneficial bacteria, but like most things, that bacteria needs oxygen in order to do it, which is why it is critical that you keep the oxygen levels at acceptable levels or higher.

To do this, you need to consider the two main types of aeration systems:  surface aeration and bottom based aeration.  To decide which would be more beneficial for your pond, consider the depth of your pond.  If your pond is less than six feet deep, a surface aeration system is likely best, while deeper ponds should utilize a bottom based aeration system.

The main difference between the two types of aeration systems is that surface aerators are usually floating aeration units that pull in water from the top foot or two of the pond and splash it into the air.  As the water falls back to the pond, oxygen transfer and the venting of gases occur.  This means that the aeration is taking place just at the surface, which is why this method of aeration works best for smaller ponds.

Conversely, bottom based aeration systems or diffused aeration involves pushing air down to the bottom of the pond or lake and allowing the bubbles to rise naturally to the surface of the water.  The bubbles provide the bulk of the aeration, which makes bottom based aeration systems the ideal choice for larger ponds and lakes.  As the bubbles rise, they de-stratify the water, which eliminates that oxygen-poor zone down at the bottom of the pond or lake.  The oxygen rich water helps to create a healthier water column.

Proper aeration will not only keep your fish alive, but will also stimulate beneficial pond bacteria that can break down waste and reduce the bottom muck layer.  Aerobic bacteria will also be more numerous than anaerobic bacteria, which will reduce the odor that your pond produces.  Phosphates, which algae thrive on, are eliminated, preventing the algae from accumulating in your pond.  Your overall water quality will also be improved.  Gasses like carbon dioxide and hydrogen sulfide can be easily vented.  Quality aeration systems can also keep fish from dying in ponds in northern states during the winter, as the pond’s surface will not freeze over, allowing gasses to be vented during the winter, which is critical to the survival of your fish.

To further aid the presence and growth of aerobic bacteria, you should utilize EcoBio-Block nsM and/or EcoBio-Block Wave.  These products have been shown to increase the presence of nitrifying bacteria and decrease the time it takes to establish the denitrification cycle in your pond.  This will help to reduce the odor emanating from your pond and it has been established as safe for all fish and plants.

As you can see, pond aeration is critical to the survival of your fish and to the presence of aerobic bacteria, which can break down waste more quickly and with less odor than anaerobic bacteria.  There are two main types of aeration:  surface aeration and bottom based aeration.  Surface aeration is best for ponds that are less than six feet, as aeration only occurs at the surface.  For deeper ponds and lakes, bottom based aeration is best, since this keeps the bottom part of the pond/lake enriched with oxygen, critical to the water level remaining high and allowing your fish to live throughout the whole area.  By carefully considering and implementing the proper aeration system, your fish can remain healthy and add to the landscape of your pond.

Aquarium with Green Algae

Of all the irritating and unpleasant things that can happen to an aquarist, nothing is more likely to ruin his disposition and destroy his faith in the essentially benign purposes of nature than green water, particularly when it occurs, as it usually does, in a tank he is especially proud of or for some reason wants to watch closely.

The writer recalls vividly his own initial experience with this condition. He observed one morning that the water in his prize aquarium had lost its usual transparency. The next day it had a slightly green tinge. By the end of the week the contents of the tank had completely disappeared in a fog of pea soup, which the strongest light would not pierce. Hoping the condition was temporary and would clear itself up, he postponed doing anything about it, as the tank was a large one and cleaning it out would be no small job.

Finally deciding that further waiting was hopeless, he drew off all the water he could without removing about a hundred and fifty fish and replaced it with clear water. The improvement that resulted lasted only a few hours, and three days later the condition was worse than ever.

On the advice of more experienced friends the light was then cut down. The only result, after forty-eight hours, was to bring the fish to the surface gasping for air. Salt was added, likewise on the advice of friends. Effect-none. Other suggested remedies were tried without any improvement whatever, and finally the tank had to be cleaned out completely, washed, replanted and gotten off to a new start.

Following this experience an investigation was made which disclosed the following interesting facts:
Water everywhere in indoor aquariums as well as outdoor ponds, etc., is constantly receiving air borne spores of algae, yeasts, molds and other bacteria. When the water contains appreciable percentages of dissolved or suspended organic matter, the spores develop into bacteria, which break down this matter into its component salts. These salts are the food of plants, and when there is sufficient actively growing plant life in the aquarium the salts are absorbed by the plants practically as fast as they are formed. Under these conditions an aquarium is “balanced” and the water remains sweet and clear indefinitely.

When, however, the salts referred to are formed faster than the plants can absorb them, the algae spores (which in effect are microscopic plant seeds) find a foothold and tiny microscopic plants which swim about in the water develop in prodigious numbers. These algae take up the excess salts and keep the water sweet, but unfortunately they also create an unsightly appearance. Moreover they compete with the higher plants in the aquarium, robbing them of both food and light. In time the higher plants will succumb, leaving the algae in full possession.

It will be seen therefore that the development of green water arises in the first place from an unbalanced condition in the aquarium. The decay and dissolution of an undue quantity of uneaten food, dead snails, fish, plant leaves, excrement, etc., leads to a high bacterial content (indicated by cloudy or ill smelling water) which produces more food than can be consumed by the plant life present in the tank. The algae step in and the tank becomes green.

Cutting down the light kills the algae, removing the effect without touching the cause. This is true of any other remedy which merely kills the algae. The sudden death and rapid decomposition of a quantity of algae may foul the tank and kill the fish. The only logical, safe and permanent remedy for green water is to reduce the amount of decomposing organic matter in the tank or increase the number of plants. This means:

1. Find out whether the excess is caused by too many fish.
2. If not, watch your feeding and siphon off the bottom dirt more frequently.

Close attention and careful monitoring of your tank conditions should keep your aquarium clear and algae free. Products that increase beneficial bacteria in your tank, like the EcoBio-Block will help to keep your tank water “balanced” for 1.5 to 2 years and are added protection against “algae bloom”.

Cloudy Aquarium Water

One of the most common challenges of keeping an aquarium is cloudy water. Whether the cloudiness is green, white, or gray, a fish habitat that is short of crystal clear is not just an eyesore but also a serious health risk for its inhabitants. Why does the water turn cloudy and what can you do about it?

Grayish or dirty white water is often encountered when setting up a new tank. In most cases, a sand or gravel substrate that has not been diligently rinsed before setup will generate sufficient debris to fog the water. The only solution would be to re-rinse the substrate until all the debris is removed. An efficient mechanical filter will also help take care of minute floating particles.

Green water, which is oftentimes also thick and hazy, is caused by an “algae bloom” or the rapid growth of microscopic green algae. High and prolonged levels of bright light are the main causes of green algae growth and proliferation. If a tank gets direct sunlight or if the overhead lighting is left on for more than 10-12 hours a day, algae overgrowth becomes imminent. The simple solution is to locate the tank away from direct sunlight and attach a timer to the overhead lights so that the ideal light exposure cycles can be maintained.

Milky white water that sometimes gives off a rotten smell is caused by decay. Uneaten leftover food deteriorates and fouls up the water. An overstocked aquarium will render filtration systems and nitrifying bacteria inadequate to handle the bio-load. The result is pollution from rotting food and excess waste, making the water murky. In severe pollution situations, drastic water changes may be necessary.

Cloudy aquarium water caused by decaying food can be prevented by feeding only as much as the fish community can consume in three to five minutes. Leftover food should be scooped out.

Murky water caused by excess waste products can be prevented by maintaining a balanced tank with a population of fishes suitable for the size of the tank and the capacity of the filtration systems. This ensures that the filters and the colonies of beneficial bacteria can keep up with the bio-load of the community.

In effect, cloudy water can be minimized if adequate colonies of beneficial bacteria are present to break down the harmful ammonia and nitrites (from decaying food and excess waste matter) into less harmful nitrates. Experts have suggested adding gravel from established aquariums to supplement the insufficient bacterial colonies in a cloudy tank. One simple solution is to add an EcoBio-Block product to the tank.

The EcoBio-Block Family Products are mineral-rich porous volcanic stones from Japan embedded with prolific bacteria (“bacillus subtilis natto”) that can actively multiply every half hour. The bacteria establish colonies quickly, degrading organic matter and nitrifying waste products, and keeping the aquarium clear, odor-free and healthy for years.

Cloudy aquarium water, which causes stress to the fish community, should never have to happen. Feed just the right amount of food, keep a population of fish suitable to the tank size and filtration system, and add a bacteria enhancing product like EcoBio-Block, and you are assured of crystal clear water and healthy fishes all the time.

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