Aquarium and Pond Care with EcoBio-Block

Setting up a new tank

After purchasing an aquarium and bringing it home, many novice aquarium hobbyists mistakenly believe that the most difficult task is behind them. It can be very hard, after all, to choose just one tank from among a wide variety of choices in aquarium sizes and shapes. Once you get your new aquarium home, however, the real work begins. If you take time to make the necessary preparations and research the proper procedure, setting up your first freshwater aquarium will be less of a hassle and your job will be much easier down the line when it comes to routine care and maintenance.

Selecting a Location

Place your aquarium on top of a sturdy cabinet or aquarium stand and position it somewhere you will be able to enjoy it. When selecting a location for your tank, keep in mind that if you place it in direct sunlight you will have problems with algae growth. It is also important to consider accessibility when selecting a location for your tank so that routine cleaning and maintenance does not become difficult.

Basic Set-Up Tips

1. Rinse the aquarium along with any gravel, plants and decorations in warm tap water. When rinsing gravel or substrate, stir the gravel well and flush it with water until the overflow runs clear.

2. Attach your aquarium background to the back of the tank using clear tape.

3. Pour the clean gravel into the tank then fill it about 2/3 full with warm tap water. Place a flat rock in the center of the tank and pour the water in over the rock to avoid scattering the gravel.

4. Check the water temperature in the tank as you fill it using an in-tank thermometer, adding warmer or cooler water as needed to keep the temperature between 70° and 76° Fahrenheit.

5. Set up your power filter according to the manufacturer’s instruction, but do not plug it in.

6. Mount your submersible aquarium heater on the wall of the tank, but do not plug it in. Leave adequate space around the heater to ensure even distribution of heated water and do not rest any decorations up against the heater itself.

7. Install your decorations and plants in the aquarium. Position the tallest plants near the back of the aquarium and place smaller plants up front.

8. Fill the tank the rest of the way with warm tap water and add your choice of dechlorinating solution, following the instructions on the bottle to determine how much to use.

9. Plug in your heater and filter and adjust them to the appropriate settings. Read the instructions included with your filter to determine whether you need to fill the filter with water before plugging it in.

10. Wait at least 24 hours before adding any fish to your aquarium. This will give the tank temperature time to stabilize and the nitrogen cycling process time to begin.

Other Tips for a Healthy Aquarium

In order to keep your aquarium running properly you need to establish a base of beneficial bacteria – a process often referred to as cycling the tank. Adding a few fish to the tank at a time is one of the most common ways to begin building a colony of beneficial bacteria but installing an EcoBio-Stone to your tank can help you to jumpstart the process. EcoBio-Block products are made of porous volcanic cement block infused with beneficial bacteria that will multiply upon being introduced into your tank. These bacteria help to speed up the nitrogen cycle, keeping the water in your tank clean and clear for your fish to enjoy and reduce the frequency of necessary water changes.

Platy fry

While several species of freshwater aquarium fish breed readily under a variety of circumstances, some have specific requirements that must be met before they are likely to spawn. The basics of breeding, however, are fairly uniform among most species of freshwater aquarium fish. The first thing you must do is to select a breeding pair, or a trio for some species, and quarantine them in a breeding tank. Once you have done so, you can begin the process of conditioning your fish for breeding.

Setting Up a Breeding Tank

The size of the breeding tank should depend on the size of the fish, but ten to twenty gallons is usually sufficient. The tank should be bare-bottomed in order to make it easier to clean and it should be decorated sparsely. It is wise to provide a few hiding places like large rocks or terra cotta pots in the event that the female needs a place to rest and recover from the male’s aggressive advances. Some species – egg-layers in particular – prefer a breeding tank stocked with live plants on which they will deposit their eggs.

Encouraging Your Fish to Spawn

Maintaining a steady temperature and providing a healthy, varied diet are two of the most important elements in encouraging your fish to spawn. The temperature of the breeding tank should be determined by the breed of fish but, in many cases, slowly raising the temperature encourages breeding behavior. In some species, however, the opposite is true. Corydoras catfish, for example, typically spawn after a recent rainfall has lowered the temperature in their native habitat, the Amazon River.

Offer your fish a varied diet consisting of small amounts of live, frozen, flake and pellets foods several times a day in order to condition them for breeding. After a few days you should begin to notice courtship and spawning behavior. The male of the species will often chase the female around the tank and some fish, like betta fish, will prepare a bubble nest and collect the eggs after spawning has occurred.

Caring for Fry

Some species of fish, such as cichlids, care for their fry after they have hatched but most freshwater fish are more likely to eat their own young. This being the case, it is wise to remove the parents from the breeding tank as soon as possible after spawning has occurred. If you are breeding an egg-laying species, dose the tank with methylene blue to prevent fungus from killing the eggs. Install a sponge filter in the corner of the tank to provide filtration without putting the fry at risk for being sucked up an intake valve.

For the first few days after hatching, the fry of most egg-laying species will subsist on the remainder of their yolk sacs. The fry of live-bearing species, however, should be started on a diet of newly hatched brine shrimp or a liquid fry food such as infusoria. During the first few weeks after hatching it is important to feed the fry small amounts several times a day. Once they have tripled in size you may begin to feed them finely crushed flake foods and, as they continue to grow, move them to a larger tank.

Tips for Breeding Success

If your fish are not in prime condition, they will be unlikely to spawn. In addition to a healthy diet, clean water is essential to the health and well-being of your fish. Establishing a colony of beneficial bacteria in your tank is one of the best ways to keep the water quality in your tank high. Install an EcoBio-Stone to begin a colony of nitrifying bacteria that will help to remove odor, break down wastes, and keep the water clear. EcoBio-Stones are made of natural volcanic rock infused with beneficial bacteria that will multiply readily upon being introduced into your tank. Not only is this product perfect for the breeding tank, but it can also be used in fry tanks where power filters are not recommended due to the danger they pose toward delicate fry.

Tropical Freshwater Aquarium

When it comes to the home aquarium, many people do not realize that there are more than two options: freshwater or saltwater. These two categories contain a number of different options for the experienced aquarium hobbyist to explore. The tropical community tank is generally recommended for novice aquarium hobbyists but those who have a great deal of experience with fishkeeping may enjoy moving on to the challenge of a coldwater or brackish aquarium. Along with the challenge of a new type of freshwater aquarium come new species of fish, new options for decorations and greater satisfaction.
Tropical Freshwater Aquariums

Many aquarium hobbyists choose the tropical freshwater aquarium because it is relatively inexpensive and easy to maintain. While saltwater tanks require specialized equipment like protein skimmers, most tropical freshwater tanks require only a submersible aquarium heater, filter and lighting. Most of this equipment can be programmed, making it a virtually hands-free system even the most inexperienced aquarium hobbyist can use without difficulty. In addition to these benefits, tropical freshwater fish are relatively easy to find in stores and there is, in general, a greater variety from which to choose in this category than in other categories of freshwater fish.
Coldwater Aquariums

Goldfish are the most commonly recognized species of coldwater fish but certain species of barbs, tetras and danios can tolerate water temperatures in the low 60’s as can guppies, white clouds and loaches. While some of these fish are not as brightly colored as the more popular tropical species, it may be worth it to simplify the aquarium set-up by eliminating the need for heating equipment. Just because an aquarium heater is not necessary, however, does not always mean that coldwater tanks are easier to manage than tropical freshwater tanks. You may need to purchase an aquarium chiller to keep the water temperature low enough for some species and some fish have specific needs that may require extra equipment. Goldfish, for example, have one of the highest waste outputs of any species of freshwater fish and require highly-oxygenated water which may necessitate an extra filter or an aerator.

Adding an EcoBio-Stone or EcoBio-Planter to your coldwater tank is an easy way to help keep a tank full of goldfish clean. EcoBio products are made from natural volcanic stone and are infused with beneficial bacteria. After being introduced into your tank, these bacteria multiply to create a colony of nitrifying bacteria which will help to break down wastes, keeping the water in your tank clean and clear between routine water changes for approximately 2 years.
Brackish Water Aquariums

The word brackish refers to a mix of saltwater and freshwater and it describes the type of aquatic environment found in estuaries, coastal streams and saltwater swamps. When it comes to setting up a brackish tank, the necessary equipment is generally the same as for a tropical freshwater tank – filter, heater and lighting. Where a brackish aquarium differs from a typical tropical freshwater tank is in the tank environment. Brackish aquariums are usually filled with a dark substrate like sand and live plants and driftwood which are the staples of brackish tank décor.

In order to create a true brackish environment, salt must be added to the water to achieve a specific gravity between 1.002 and 1.025 depending on the fish you plan to raise. Some popular species of brackish aquarium fish include swordtails, mollies, loaches, gobies and catfish. While several plants commonly used in tropical freshwater aquariums can survive in a brackish environment, plants like cabomba, vallisneria and mangroves are best-suited for this type of tank. Brackish water aquariums may be more difficult to care for than a simple tropical freshwater tank, but experienced aquarium hobbyists may appreciate the challenge.

Planted freshwater aquarium

Live plants perform two essential roles in the freshwater aquarium. First, live plants enhance the appearance of your aquarium in a way that artificial plants cannot. Fake aquarium plants often look rigid and unrealistic whereas live plants bloom and grow, filling your aquarium with natural beauty. Second, live aquarium plants improve the water quality in your tank by removing nitrates and by oxygenating the water. Some aquarium plants even help to reduce algae growth.

Before you begin cultivating a planted aquarium, make sure you have adequate tank space to accommodate the growth of live aquarium plants. A tank height between 12 and 18 inches is sufficient along with a volume between 15 and 50 gallons. In addition to providing your live plants with plenty of space to grow, adequate filtration is necessary in order to circulate the water and to remove toxins and waste. Undergravel filters may hamper the spread of plant roots and are not recommended for planted tanks. The best filter for a planted aquarium is a power filter that provides both mechanical and chemical filtration.

Lighting is one of the most important aspects in keeping live aquarium plants healthy. Aquarium plants require at least 2 watts of fluorescent lighting per gallon of tank capacity in order to grow properly. Special plant-friendly fluorescent lights are available at most pet supply stores but regular full spectrum and daylight varieties work just as well and are much less expensive. Leave the lights on in your tank for 10 to 12 hours a day to maximize plant growth and replace the bulbs every few months to ensure the maximum efficacy.

Though many aquarium plants do well in regular gravel or sand, substrates designed with aquarium plants in mind are best for optimal plant growth. Plants need a supply of iron in order to grow properly so substrates like Fluorite and Eco-Complete which provide plants with this nutrient are recommended for planted tanks. If you do not want to purchase a planting substrate, consider at least putting down a 1-inch layer of peat moss or laterite under your gravel to fertilize your plants. Providing your plants with the right substrate will enhance their growth, ensuring that they will be able to do the work of improving the water quality in your tank.

To maximize the water quality-enhancing effects of live aquarium plants, pot one or two of them in an EcoBio-Planter. The EcoBio-Planter is made from natural zeolite and crushed stone, making it the perfect environment to cultivate the microbes and beneficial bacteria that help aquarium plants to thrive. If you choose to use the planter, place a fertilizer tablet in the planter before adding your plant because it will not have access to any fertilizer you add to the substrate in your tank. EcoBio-Block products help to improve water quality by establishing a colony of nitrifying bacteria that clear cloudy water, making it a healthier environment for live plants.

Cultivating a planted freshwater tank is not as difficult as it may seem to the novice aquarium hobbyist. Aside from providing the right substrate, lighting and nutrients there is little else that must be done on a day to day basis to keep your aquarium plants thriving. In order to ensure the success of your planted aquarium, purchase an aquarium water test kit to check the CO2 and nitrogen levels in your tank on a weekly basis and make adjustments when necessary. If you provide your plants with the right environment they will grow well and repay you by keeping your freshwater aquarium clear and healthy.

If you plan on turning your freshwater aquarium into a saltwater aquarium, you are likely wondering if the equipment you already have can be used to create that saltwater aquarium or if you have to get brand new equipment. We will examine the individual components to see what you can continue to use and what you must replace. First, we will check out the aquarium itself.

Aquariums are not designed only to be used as either a freshwater tank or a saltwater tank; most aquariums can be used for either. The glass or acrylic material that makes up the structure of the aquarium certainly applies to both freshwater and saltwater aquarium tanks. The silicone adhesive that is used in construction is also applicable to both freshwater and saltwater aquariums.

The one main difference between freshwater and saltwater tanks is that freshwater tanks tend to be considerably smaller than their saltwater counterparts. While a 5-gallon freshwater tank can theoretically be transformed into a saltwater tank, small saltwater tanks are often harder to work with, which is why many experienced saltwater aquarists suggest that you use no smaller than a 55-gallon tank for your saltwater aquarium.

Regarding the filtration of your aquarium, filtration is a little more involved when it comes to saltwater aquariums, since biological filtration is an especially critical component in a saltwater aquarium. Freshwater aquarium owners can choose to use a biowheel and box that hangs on the outside of the tank or in a corner of the tank for filtration needs, but a saltwater tank usually needs more filtration than that which these types of filters can provide. While undergravel filter (UGF) set-ups can be used in saltwater aquariums, they can contribute to unwanted nitrate problems in later years, which is why many saltwater aquarium owners prefer wet-dry trickle and canister type filters that have bio-media chambers.

There is no set choice for a filter to be used in a saltwater aquarium; your best bet is to research the various filtration methods and set-ups, than choose the one that you feel will work best for your aquarium.  You can usually help to narrow your decision by deciding whether you will have a fish-only aquarium or a reef tank system, though filters that are used for reef tank systems can also be used for fish-only aquariums, so you can save money and hassle by purchasing filters that will work with reef tank systems even if you only initially plan on having fish in your saltwater aquarium.

Regarding pumps and powerheads, most freshwater pumps can work well in saltwater aquariums, provided that they are rated as safe to use in saltwater. The main difference between freshwater and saltwater aquariums is that saltwater aquariums use more pumps and powerheads to obtain greater movement and circulation in the water. This can be especially beneficial to the health of corals.

Many freshwater aquarium owners use large-sized gravel or rock material to provide the biological filter base. However, this does not work well in a saltwater tank, as the substrate that is used in saltwater tanks should have high natural levels of calcium content that originates in the ocean. One solution that you can use in both freshwater and saltwater aquariums is ONEdersave’s EcoBio-Block® aquarium products. Their EcoBio-Stone™ L works especially well in larger saltwater tanks, as it is made to be used in 16 to 100 gallons of water.

The lighting used for freshwater tanks can work with fish-only saltwater tanks, though the light hood may not stand up well to the corrosive effects of saltwater, plus it will not hold MH, PC, or VHO lighting.  You certainly need to change the lighting if you plan on having a reef system. It is important that you carefully research exactly what you need for your aquarium before heading out to your local fish store so that you don’t buy unnecessary or inadequate equipment.

You will definitely need to change the decorations in your tank if you plan to convert from freshwater to saltwater, as most saltwater fish are grazers, and if you leave decorations that are made of plastic, your saltwater fish could have their digestive tracks shut down from eating such items. You should place either live rock or non-living or synthetic decorative rocks and corals in your saltwater aquarium.

The heater for your freshwater tank will likely suffice for your saltwater tank, provided that it is safe to use in saltwater tanks. You will need to use a different test kit, however, since the chemicals used in freshwater test kits are entirely different from those found in saltwater test kits.

In conclusion, some equipment from your freshwater aquarium will work well with your new saltwater aquarium, but some equipment will have to be replaced. By doing some careful research online and in saltwater aquarium books, along with the information in this article, you should be able to transform your freshwater aquarium into a saltwater aquarium quickly and at relatively little cost.