Bacterial Diseases

Goldfish with Popeye

Poor water quality is the most common cause of bacterial infections and fish that are already stressed due to poor tank conditions or prior injury have an increased susceptibility to bacterial diseases. Bacterial infections may be either external or internal but external infections are the most common. External bacterial infections often produce symptoms like ragged or rotting fins, lethargy, reddening of the skin and ulcers. Internal infections may result in hemorrhaging and fluid build-up. Some of the most common bacterial infections include fin rot, dropsy, tuberculosis and red pest. Salt baths are a common treatment for bacterial infections, though medications such as potassium permanganate and chloramine-T are also effective.

Fungal Diseases

Fungal diseases are some of the most common among freshwater fish and examples of fungal diseases include cotton mouth, egg fungus and gill rot. Because fungal spores are already present in most aquariums, it only takes a decline in water quality for the disease to spread. Fish that are already stressed or injured are much more likely to contract fungal infections. Common symptoms of fungal diseases include white cottony growths, excessive mucus production and difficulty breathing or eating. Fungal infections are most often treated with antifungal agents such as phenoxyethanol and Malachite Green, though salt baths are also known to be effective.

Parasite Diseases

Parasite infections are caused by microscopic organisms which enter the bodies of fish and feed off of them, often killing the fish in the process. Common parasite infections include Ich, Hexamita, Chilodonella and Velvet. These diseases often produce symptoms such as ulcers, visible cysts or spots, loss of appetite and rubbing against tank objects. Increasing tank temperature can sometimes help to speed up the life cycle of the parasite but more common treatments include potassium permanganate, formalin and acriflavine.

Viral Diseases

Viral infections are some of the most difficult to diagnose and to treat because they are largely internal and cannot be treated directly. The most recognizable symptom of viral disease is wart-like growths, though red streaks or bruises on the skin and fins are also common. Some viral diseases may result in bloating, hemorrhaging, anorexia and lethargy. Fish pox, Lymphocystis and viral hemorrhagic septicemia are some of the most common viral infections. Most viral infections have no cure and even if the infected fish survives it may be a lifelong carrier of the disease.

Tips for Keeping Fish Healthy

You already know that keeping your fish tank clean is the key to keeping your fish healthy. What you may not realize, however, is that something as simple as adding an EcoBio-Stone to your tank can make a big difference in maintaining high water quality. EcoBio-Stones are made from porous volcanic cement and infused with beneficial bacteria. When the stone is immersed in water, the beneficial bacteria multiply to form a colony in your tank that will help maintain the nitrogen cycle and clarify the water. When combined with routine water changes and adequate filtration, an EcoBio-Stone can help to keep your aquarium clean and clear which will lower the chances of your fish contracting a disease.

Small Species of Fish

Neon Tetras

Many of the smaller species of freshwater fish you are likely to see in pet stores are hardy and tolerant of varying water conditions. Some of the most popular small species for beginning aquarists include neon tetras, danios, barbs and livebearers such as guppies, mollies and swordtails. Do not think that just because a species of fish is easy to care for that they are also boring – guppies, for example, are known for the vibrant colors and patterns displayed by males of the species. Mollies, platies and swordtails are also available in a wide variety of colors and can be mixed in different combinations to create a colorful array for your first tank. Keep in mind when selecting small species of fish for your first tank that many of these species prefer to be kept in groups with others of their kind and, because they are small, they should not be kept with large or aggressive fish.

Medium and Large Species

One of the most recognizable species of freshwater fish is the angelfish. Not only is this species very popular, but it is also a fairly hardy species, easy to maintain in the home aquarium. Another popular group of fish for new aquarium hobbyists is the gourami family. Gouramis can be found in many different color combinations and most species are hardy, peaceful fish well suited to the community tank. Pearl gouramis, for example, have a very mild temperament and exhibit beautiful coloration that can enhance the aesthetic appeal of any community tank. Another species recommended for new aquarium hobbyists is the plecostomus. Small plecostomus are great for community tanks and require little care because the majority of their diet is gleaned from algae growths and uneaten fish food. When stocking your tank with medium and large species, keep in mind that as these fish grow they may become territorial. This is particularly true regarding plecostomus and male gouramis.

Tips for Starting a New Tank

If you are starting your first tank, there are a few things you need to do in order to ensure that the tank is a safe and healthy environment for fish. Not only do you need to make sure you dechlorinate the tank water and install all of the necessary equipment, you also need to cycle the tank before you can add any fish. The nitrogen cycle is the process through which nitrifying bacteria in your tank convert harmful toxins like ammonia into nitrites and then into less harmful nitrates. Adding an EcoBio-Stone is a simple way to introduce some of these bacteria into your tank to help start a colony for maintaining the nitrogen cycle. EcoBio-Stones are made of porous volcanic cement and are infused with beneficial bacteria. Once these bacteria enter your tank they will multiply and work to keep the water clean and clear while also helping to maintain the nitrogen cycle. Though the species of fish previously mentioned are tolerant of changing water conditions, all fish are more likely to thrive in a clean tank where the water parameters remain stable.

Dietary Needs of Aquarium Fish

Like all living things, aquarium fish have certain nutritional needs that must be met if they are going to thrive and grow. The basic needs of all aquarium fish include protein, lipids (fats), carbohydrates, vitamins and minerals. Though all fish have these basic needs, certain kinds of fish require different amounts of certain nutrients. Carnivorous species of fish, for example, may require high-protein diets while herbivorous fish need more vegetables. It is important to keep in mind that you should feed your fish about 3% of their body weight once or twice a day. Because most species of fish are relatively small, this does not add up to a large amount of food. It becomes especially important, then, to feed your fish the right foods if they are to receive all the nutrients they require.

Types of Fish Food

While the most popular type of aquarium fish food – and also the most readily available – is flake food, this type is not necessarily the most nutritious. Generally, processed foods like flakes, pellets and granules lose a high percentage of their nutrients during processing and are thus not recommended as the staple foods in an aquarium fish diet. To keep your fish healthy, supplement a diet of processed foods with live, freeze-dried and frozen foods. Bloodworms, white worms, brine shrimp and daphnia are some of the most popular types of live foods and many of these foods are also available in frozen and freeze-dried forms. If you do choose to feed your fish flake foods, try to choose one that is specially formulated for the type of fish you have or at least select a vitamin- or mineral-enriched formula. Once you have accumulated a variety of fish foods, create a dietary routine – try to give your fish a different type of food each day of the week.

Tips for Healthy Fish

The amount you feed your fish is almost as important as the type of food you give them. If you overfeed your fish they may become obese and large quantities of uneaten fish food will build up along the bottom of your tank. This build-up of uneaten fish food will result in high levels of ammonia in your tank which could put your fish at risk for ammonia poisoning. Limit the amount of food you give your fish to a quantity they can consume in three to five minutes. This will keep your fish from overindulging and it will also reduce the amount of waste build-up in your substrate.

While controlling the amount of food you give your fish is a good way to reduce waste build-up, you cannot eliminate it completely. In order to keep up with your fish and to break down ammonia as it is produced, consider adding an EcoBio-Stone to your tank. These stones are made of porous volcanic sand and are infused with unique nitrifying bacteria. After these bacteria have been introduced into your tank they will multiply and grow, working to convert harmful ammonia into less harmful nitrates. In combination with routine water changes and controlled feedings, EcoBio-Stones are an easy way to keep your fish healthy while also keeping your tank clean and clear.

Types of Algae in the Aquarium

from left: brown algae, green algae, and thread algae

Brown Algae = This is the most common type of aquarium algae and it is likely to be found in new tanks as well as aquariums with low lighting. Also called diatoms, brown algae presents in the shape of soft clumps that form on aquarium walls and décor. This type of algae can be easily removed by hand and it can be controlled through the introduction of live plants or algae eaters like aquarium snails and Otocinclus catfish.

Green Algae = This type of algae usually presents as green water in the aquarium and it is often a result of poor water quality. Green algae, also called an algae bloom, grows quickly in tanks that have too much light and in new tanks that haven’t been cycled correctly. Because it typically forms a film on tank walls and décor, green algae can easily be wiped off and it usually goes away on its own once the tank conditions have stabilized.

Cyanobacteria = Often called blue/green algae, cyanobacteria are actually microscopic organisms that spread throughout the tank in slimy blue/green sheets. This type of algae can be removed easily by hand and its growth should be controlled or it may result in the death of fish and aquarium plants.

Green Spot Algae = Presenting in the form of hard green spots on tank walls and plants, this type of algae is one of the most stubborn. Green spot algae is typically found in tanks exposed to too much light and tanks with low CO₂ and Phosphate levels. The best way to remove this type of algae is by scraping it away with a razor blade – few species of algae eaters are successful in removing green spot algae growths.

Red/Brush Algae = Brush algae, also called red algae, tends to collect on slow-growing aquarium plants. This type of algae can grow in either acidic or alkaline conditions and it is difficult to remove by hand. Siamese algae eaters are one of the only known species that are effective in controlling this type of algae growth.

Thread Algae = This type of algae takes the form of long threads which grow up to 30cm long and hang on to leaf edges. Thread algae is likely to grow in tanks that are low in iron and it can easily be removed by twirling the growths around a toothbrush. This type of algae can be controlled through the introduction of Siamese algae eaters into the tank.

Tips for Controlling Aquarium Algae

In order to keep algae levels low in your aquarium you need to limit the nutrients available and make the tank environment less ideal for algae growth. Keeping your tank clean through routine water changes and by limiting the amount of food you give your fish are two simple ways to limit the nutrients available to algae. Live aquarium plants are another great solution because plants will compete with algae for nutrients, thus limiting the ability of algae to grow. Keeping your tank out of direct sunlight and limiting your use of artificial light to 10 or 12 hours a day are the best ways to make your tank environment less likely to encourage algae growth.

Another simple way to keep your tank clean and clear is to introduce an EcoBio-Stone. An EcoBio-Stone is made of porous volcanic rock and is infused with unique beneficial bacteria. Once they have been introduced into your tank, these bacteria will multiply and help to maintain the nitrogen cycle. The nitrogen cycle is simply the process through which wastes are broken down and the resulting ammonia is converted into nitrates. Once you install an EcoBio-Stone in your tank, the beneficial bacteria will take over, helping to keep your tank water clean and clear. A clean aquarium is less likely to experience excess algae growth and it will be a healthier environment for your fish.

Types of Fish That Eat Aquarium Plants

While many species of aquarium fish are likely to nibble on the plants in your aquarium, some are capable of decimating your entire planted aquarium in a matter of hours. Silver dollar fish, for example, are particularly notorious plant eaters. Other species like mollies and swordtails may nibble at your plants but will rarely do any major damage. Though they may not actually eat your aquarium plants, some larger species like gouramis and cichlids may uproot and break apart the plants in your tank and algae eaters may chew holes in them.

Species of Fish Safe for Planted Tanks

If you have taken the time to cultivate a planted tank you should also make the effort to ensure that the fish you add to your tank will not destroy all of your hard work. Most small, community species of fish pose no threat to aquarium plants. Barbs, tetras, danios and guppies are all unlikely to do anything more than pick flakes of food from the leaves of aquarium plants. Even some of the slightly larger species like discus, killifish and dwarf gouramis are safe for planted tanks. Other species that are recommended for planted tanks include corydoras catfish, platties, gobies, minnows and betta fish.

Tips for Maintaining a Planted Tank

Healthy Planted Tank

There are many benefits to cultivating live aquarium plants in your tank. Not only do live plants enhance the aesthetic appeal of your tank but they can also increase the oxygen level and help filter out harmful toxins. In order to keep your aquarium plants healthy you need to provide a healthy aquarium environment. To create this type of environment you will need adequate light, nutrition and filtration.

In addition to these three things there is something else you can do to keep your tank a clean, healthy environment for your plants and fish. Introduce an EcoBio-Planter to your mid-size aquarium as a simple way to remove odors and clarify your tank water (for larger tanks, simply add another planter or a stone). EcoBio-Planters are made from natural zeolite and crushed stone which has been infused with beneficial bacteria. Once introduced to your tank, these bacteria will multiply and establish a colony that will then work to break down wastes, remove odors and speed up the nitrogen cycle. EcoBio-Planter is also terrific for your plants. Simply place a small root ball in the opening and the plant will grow and thrive, greatly adding to the beauty of your planted aquarium.

Community fish tank

Regarding tropical fish compatibility, there are three major categories into which most species of fish fall: community; semi-aggressive and aggressive. Community fish are those species which are typically peaceful and get along well with most other fish. Danios, tetras, guppies, swordtails, platys and mollies are community fish that not only do well with a variety of other species but thrive best in groups, or schools, made up of their own species.

Semi-aggressive tropical fish are those which have a tendency to be territorial but generally tolerate community fish. Some examples of fish belonging to this category include barbs, gouramis, eels, loaches and sharks. In most cases, these species can co-exist happily with other species provided there is enough space in the tank to reduce the need of the semi-aggressive fish to defend its territory. Breeding is another major concern which factors into how well one fish will get along with another. Semi-aggressive and aggressive fish should be limited to one male of the species per tank. If two males of the same species are kept in one tank, the stronger male is likely to torment the other until it falls ill and dies.

Some of the most aggressive species of tropical fish are also the largest. Oscars and cichlids are the most common species belonging to this category and they do best when kept in large tanks with few other fish. Some species of cichlid can be extremely aggressive so it is important that you do your research or consult a professional at your local aquarium supply store before adding a cichlid to your aquarium. When they are small, plecostomus are generally fairly peaceful but medium and large plecostumus can be also very territorial and aggressive.

The key to keeping your fish happy and healthy is to reduce stress and one of the easiest ways to do so is to ensure that all of your fish get along. Choose carefully when purchasing the fish for your aquarium and use caution when introducing them. Rather than adding your fish all at once, especially when you first start your aquarium, add one species at a time and give each group enough time to adjust to the tank. Adding fish to the tank slowly will also give your filter and the beneficial bacteria in your tank time to adjust and accommodate for the new arrivals.

Maintain the harmony in your tank by keeping both your fish and your aquarium healthy. Adding to your tank an EcoBio-Stone, a product made of natural zeolite, is an easy way to improve water clarity. The stone introduces a colony of beneficial bacteria called bacillus subtillis natto which break down ammonia and nitrify the water in your aquarium, keeping it clean and clear. EcoBio-Block products help to reduce the frequency of necessary water changes and contribute to making your aquarium a more pleasant environment for your fish. When you provide your fish with a healthy environment in which to live and the right tank mates, they are sure to thrive.

Tropical fish enjoy themselves in water clarified by EcoBio-Stones. Beneficial bacteria in the stones multiply in the block and disperse into your fish tank, using nature’s own cleansing system to create clear water and a healthy environment for your fish!

Clownfish in a quarantine tank

If you have saltwater tropical fish, it is virtually essential that you have a quarantine tank for them. Why? This is because most saltwater tropical fish are mostly wild and are not used to captivity when they are caught. As a result, they are more susceptible to diseases than their freshwater counterparts. Therefore, a quarantine tank will be quite helpful for treating sick saltwater tropical fish, as just one diseased fish in an aquarium tank full of fish can wipe out the entire fish population in that tank.

In addition to a quarantine tank being more convenient for saltwater fish keepers to treat their diseased tropical fish, most saltwater fish keepers will also have invertebrates and live rock in their tanks that they will not want to cover with the harsh medicines that will be needed to treat their diseased tropical fish. Some harsh medicines can even wipe out all invertebrates in an aquarium tank, so it is especially vital to have a quarantine tank ready for your saltwater tropical fish when they contract a disease or infection.

It is relatively simple to set up a quarantine tank. A tank size of 10-20 gallons will be sufficient for most people, though if you have larger fish, you can turn a larger tank into a quarantine tank as well. The main items you will need for your quarantine tank are the following items:

• Some type of filtration.
• A heater.
• A powerhead and/or airstone to increase surface agitation.
• Aquarium test kits to test for nitrate, nitrite, ammonia, and pH levels.
• A fish net, as you should use a different net for your quarantine tank than you do for your main tank.

You should first fill the quarantine tank with water from your main tank and then turn on your quarantine tank.

When you place newly acquired saltwater fish in a quarantine tank, you should monitor them closely for a period of two to three weeks. Monitor the water conditions with your test kits and see if there are any bacterial infections or parasites present.

If your newly acquired saltwater fish do contract something, youíll need to treat them with the appropriate medication and keep them in the quarantine tank for an additional two weeks to ensure that you have eradicated the infection or parasite. If no problems are present after those two weeks, then you can acclimate them to the main tank and introduce them to the other fish.

If your saltwater tropical fish develop an infection or disease while in the main tank, net them and place them into the quarantine tank. This is why it’s important to use water from your main tank in the quarantine tank, you don’t have to acclimate them to the quarantine tank. Diagnose the infection or disease, treat them accordingly, then hold the fish in the quarantine tank an extra week to ensure that the fish have been completely treated before introducing them back into the main tank.

To help keep your tanks clean and risk of infection low, use the EcoBio-Block line of products in your tanks. EcoBio-Blocks are available in different sizes to keep your home aquariums clean and healthy for your fish. Be careful not to put these blocks in your quarantine tank, however; as the beneficial bacteria in the Blocks may not survive any medication necessary for treating your fish.

It’s important for owners of saltwater tropical fish to have a ready supply of saltwater on hand in case of an emergency. You don’t want to have to mix up a batch of saltwater in the middle of an emergency. Additionally, freshly mixed saltwater can be quite toxic to many saltwater tropical fish, as well as be very difficult to get accurate readings of the water with your hydrometer. Therefore, you should always have a supply of extra saltwater on hand just in case.

As you can see, having saltwater tropical fish virtually necessitates having a quarantine tank for treating your fish when they contract a disease or infection. Failure to act in removing them from the fish population could wipe out your entire population. Additionally, the treatments used to treat these diseases and infections could have adverse effects on invertebrates and/or live rocks you have in your tank.  It’s relatively easy to create a quarantine tank to help treat your fish when they become ill.  Having an additional supply of saltwater on hand is also good to deal with emergencies when they occur. By following the information here, you can increase the chances that your saltwater tropical fish will live long, healthy lives.

Healthy small tank

Creating healthy small aquariums that have around 10-20 gallons of water in them for your freshwater fish isn’t that hard and can be quite rewarding, as your aqua ecosystem will flourish with life.  You must be diligent though, as small problems can become large problems in aquariums that are small and where fish are closely living together. One disease or infection could wipe out the entire population if you delay in taking appropriate action. Therefore, you need to be committed in order to successfully create a healthy small aquarium.

You should pick a kit with integrated filtration and lighting already built in. This way, the system will be virtually foolproof and you won’t have to combine elements to create a healthy small aquarium. The only thing you’ll need to add is an appropriate heater.

You should invest in an appropriate aquarium stand, as even a small aquarium that is filled with water can easily weigh over 100 pounds! An appropriate aquarium stand will handle the weight and even provide extra storage space for supplies.

You should choose a theme for your aquarium.  Populate it with a specific region, species, or community grouping so that it is easier to keep the water parameters in good balance for all of the inhabitants of the aquarium.

It’s important when you have a small aquarium not to overpopulate it with fish, as it will be virtually impossible to keep the water quality at the level it needs to be, to ensure the health of your fish. You should only introduce a few of the smallest fish possible into your aquarium over a period of several weeks or even a few months to ensure the health and safety of your aquarium.

It is best to have natural filtration for your freshwater aquarium. You should avoid artificial plants and structures,  and instead opt for live plants and eco-complete gravel. The EcoBio-Block line of products is a great option for keeping your freshwater aquarium in optimal shape as it keeps your water clear and healthy. The EcoBio-Stone S works perfectly for small aquariums that have 10-15 gallons of water in them.

Brightening the lighting of your aquarium can increase plant and reef growth. This is important because having healthy plants and reefs are critical to the health of your fish and aquarium. Retrofit kits are easy to find and install to adjust the lighting of your aquarium.

Daily testing and observation of the water in a small aquarium is absolutely necessary, since water in small-volume aquariums experience accelerated cycles in water quality. You should keep track of your fishes’ behavior and any gasping, hiding, drifting, or darting should be taken as a sign that there are invisible health dangers present in the water that need your immediate response.

It’s vital that you change 10-20% of the water in your aquarium as often as twice a week. This is important because you want the aquarium water to be as fresh as water found in nature, and nature will recycle water via rain and water currents. This helps to eliminate much of the toxins found in the water before they rise to dangerous levels for your fish. You can reduce the frequency of water changes though, if you choose to use the EcoBio-Block products which eliminate the toxins which are bad for your fish.

It’s important to change your filter media as often as the manufacturer recommends. That filter media keeps larger pieces of waste out of the water; neglecting to change it regularly could lead to that filter media (especially the chemical type) to allow toxins to seep back into the water, threatening your fish and aquarium.

As mentioned earlier, it’s vital that you respond to any problems immediately. Even a slight delay could lead to the death of your fish and the loss of your aquarium. You should observe daily, test often, and respond to problems within the same day to ensure the health of your fish and aquarium.

As you can see, having a small freshwater aquarium can be a very enjoyable experience, but you must be committed to maintaining the health of your aquarium and be observant for any potential problems. By following the information here, you can be prepared to keep your aquarium in optimal shape and give your fish the best chance at living long and healthy lives.

To have a healthy freshwater aquarium, you need to be aware of the basic water parameters that constitute a healthy freshwater aquarium.  This will increase the chances that your fish will enjoy long and healthy lives.

The pH level of your water is vitally important. pH is the measurement of hydrogen ions in the water.  Increased hydrogen ions lead to a drop in pH, causing more acidic water as you would find in a car’s battery. Conversely, decreased hydrogen ions lead to a rise in pH, causing less acidic water as you would find in dish soap. Most types of fish can adapt to most pH levels, but it is especially shocking to their systems and dangerous to their health if the pH level is constantly changing.

Therefore, you should try to keep the pH level at one level at all times whenever possible. Additionally, drops in pH levels cause ammonia toxicity to be more deadly to fish and keep nitrifying bacteria from growing and being more productive, also negatively affecting the health of your fish and aquarium, so it’s also important that the pH levels of your aquarium are not too low or acidic.

Water hardness is made up of two factors:  general hardness (GH) and carbonate hardness (KH). GH primarily measures calcium and magnesium ions. KH primarily measures dissolved bicarbonate and carbonate ions and indicates how stable your pH level is, as more bonding of carbonate ion and hydrogen ions indicate a higher pH, while less bonding indicates a lower pH.

The nitrogen compounds of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate make up the Nitrogen Cycle, which is a very important process in having a healthy aquarium. Fish wastes, leftover food, and all other organic matter are decomposed by microorganisms, leaving toxic Ammonia. Bacteria known as Nitrosomonas turn this Ammonia Gas into Nitrite. This substance is also toxic for fish and the other inhabitants of the aquarium, but fortunately, nitrifying bacteria are able to transform Nitrite into Nitrate, a less toxic substance that can be used by fish and other inhabitants of the aquarium as well as plants. The nitrifying bacteria usually need two to six weeks before they are plentiful enough to completely handle the rigors of your aquarium.

The EcoBio-Block line of products can effectively promote the Nitrogen Cycle and keep your water’s ammonia levels from spiking and endangering the lives of your fish.  The EcoBio-Stone S is an especially good choice for a small freshwater and saltwater aquarium, while the EcoBio-Stone M and EcoBio-Stone L can accommodate medium and large freshwater and saltwater aquariums respectively.

Phosphates enter the aquarium through water changes using tap water and also through food and leaching carbon. Dying plants and algae also create phosphates while decaying. High pH will keep phosphates in an insoluble stage, while low pH will make these compounds water-soluble and available to the algae spores. It’s important to note that the variance in pH levels in an aquarium can have an effect on what stage the phosphates are in, and having some algae is critical to the life of your aquarium.

Silicates enter the aquarium through substrate, salt, water, and dying diatom algae. Filters used to keep them out will only last for a few days before they find their way through the membranes.  Decaying organic matter creates another type of silicate, silicid acid. As with phosphates, silicates become water-soluble at lower pH levels.

High chlorine and chloramine levels can cause fish to die because they destroy the oxygen-carrying cells in your fish.  Chlorine is less stable than chloramine and airs out in just a few days. Chloramine, a mixture of ammonia and chlorine, is much more stable and can pass through the fishís tissue directly into the bloodstream. Chloramine can kill all of the fish in an aquarium within 24 hours, so it is vital that you treat tap water before using it in your aquarium as most municipal water systems use chlorine or chloramine to treat the water.

As you can see, there are many water parameters you need to be aware of in order to have a healthy freshwater aquarium.  It is vital that you test these factors regularly and take immediate action to remedy any problems so that your fish and aquarium are not in danger. By following this information, you will be able to establish a healthy freshwater aquarium where your fish and other inhabitants will live long and healthy lives.

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