Aquarium and Pond Care with EcoBio-Block

Aquarium Substrate

When it comes to setting up your aquarium for the first time one of the most important decisions you can make is what type of substrate to use. Many first-time aquarium hobbyists do not even realize that they have a choice beyond natural or colored gravel. While gravel serves its purpose well as an aquarium substrate, there are other options and some of these options have additional benefits for your tank. If you plan to keep live aquarium plants in your tank it is especially important for you to choose a substrate wisely.

Different Types of Substrates

Gravel : As one of the most readily available types of substrate, gravel is also one of the most popular. Not only is gravel easy to find and inexpensive to purchase but it comes in a variety of shapes and sizes which makes it a great option for hobbyists who want to customize their tank. Another benefit of gravel substrate is that it can be relatively easy to clean – you can simply remove it from the tank and rinse it in warm tap water until the water runs clear. Gravel can also serve as a base for the growth of beneficial bacteria but it does not provide any nutrients to support the growth of live aquarium plants.

Sand: Sea sand is not recommended for freshwater aquariums but it is popular for use in marine aquariums. This type of sand often contains impurities which can cloud the water and it may also contain pieces of shell or coral that can raise the pH in the tank. Play sand, however, makes an excellent substrate for freshwater aquariums because it has been sterilized and requires less-frequent cleaning than aquarium gravel. Aragonite is another popular type of sand substrate that is useful in buffering pH levels in saltwater aquariums.

Vermiculate: This substance is a substrate composed of the minerals aluminum, iron and magnesium. This substrate has a high cation exchange rate which helps aquarium plants to utilize nutrients. Vermiculate is an excellent substrate for planted tanks because it releases nutrients over a long period of time which negates the use of fertilizers. The best way to use this substrate is as a lower layer on the bottom of the tank covered or mixed with a layer of gravel.

Laterite: Laterite is a type of porous clay, often reddish in color, which can be used as a substrate in freshwater aquariums. This type of substrate attracts and holds nutrients, storing them until they can be utilized by aquarium plants. Like vermiculate, this substrate is best used as a lower layer in the home aquarium, covered by a layer of sand or gravel.

Tips for Using Aquarium Substrate

Do not think you need to limit yourself to one particular type of substrate. If you have a planted tank it is wise to combine several types of substrate, like vermiculate and laterite, with gravel or another substrate in order to provide the necessary nutrients. In conjunction with the right substrate, introducing an EcoBio-Stone is a great way to keep your tank clean and healthy. EcoBio-Block products are made from porous volcanic cement that has been infused with beneficial bacteria. Once introduced into your tank, these bacteria multiply and help to keep your tank water clear and odor-free which results in less maintenance on your part and a healthier environment for your fish.

Your pond filter is perhaps the most essential piece of equipment when it comes to keeping your pond clean and healthy. Pond filtration systems circulate the water to prevent algae formation, to remove waste build-up and they may also facilitate the growth of beneficial bacteria. Because filtration is key to the success of your outdoor pond, you should not buy a cheap one or purchase one too small for your pond. If saving money is a necessity, however, you can build your own pond filter from scratch.

Materials Needed:
Large plastic planter or stock tank
3-inch plastic shower drain
Jig saw
Joint compound
1 ½ inch PVC pipe
1 ½ to 1-1/4 inch threaded nipple reducer

DIY Pond Filter

The first thing you need in order to build your own pond filter is a large plastic planter or stock tank. Visit your local home improvement store to peruse your options. Next, trace around the plastic shower drain on the outside of the tank just below the rim. Cut out the hole with a jig saw, apply a bead of joint compound around the outside of the hole then insert the shower drain and press it firmly against the side of the tank to create a seal.

Measure across the bottom of the tank and divide the measurement by two. Cut two pieces of 1 ½-inch PVC pipe to 2 inches shorter than the measurement you just took and attach a PVC elbow to one end of each pipe. Connect the two pipes in the middle with a tee connector and insert a piece of PVC equal to the height of the tank vertically into the remaining connection on the tee. Top the vertical pipe with a 1-1/2 to 1-1/4-inch threaded nipple reducer then place the assemblage of pipes in the center of the planter or stock tank so the horizontal pipes rest on the bottom.

Position the elbows on the horizontal pipes so they point in opposite directions – this will create a swirling effect at the bottom of the tank which will increase the efficiency of the filtration. Cut a piece of rigid plastic mesh to the size of the stock tank or, if you are using a plastic planter, purchase a plastic sieve large enough to fit inside. Cut a hole in the middle large enough to pass the vertical PVC pipe through. The mesh should sit several inches above the bottom of the tank – elevate it with wooden blocks if necessary.

Fill the tank with your preferred filter media. You can purchase filter sponges from your local pet supply store, but regular dishwashing sponges and scrubber pads cost less and work just as well. These materials are ideal for use in pond filters because the pores catch unwanted waste and debris while also providing a place for beneficial bacteria to grow. Finish up your homemade pond filter by positioning it on the opposite end of the pond as your sump pump. Insert the hose from your sump pump into the 1-1/4-inch threaded nipple in the vertical piece of PVC and turn on the pump. The water will pass through the PVC pipes, swirl around the bottom of the tank up through the filter media and exit via the shower drain in the side of the tank back into the pond.

To turn your homemade filter into a more efficient biological filter, consider adding an EcoBio-Block Wave in addition to the sponges. EcoBio-Block products are infused with beneficial bacteria which naturally clear cloudy pond water, keeping it safe and healthy for fish. The EcoBio-Block Wave lasts for three years and can accommodate between 300 and 1000 gallons of water which means that it will keep working long after it becomes necessary to replace your other filter media. You can also install EcoBio-Block Waves along the bottom of your pond, instead of inside the filter, to clarify water and remove odors.

Goldfish are widely thought of as one of the lowest maintenance pets you can find. Goldfish keeping is practically a hassle free hobby. You do not have to worry about taking goldfish out on walks, nor do you have to worry about them chewing your furniture.

Keeping goldfish is popular for another reason as well. Watching goldfish swim around in their aquarium is beneficial due to the calming affect it seems to have on the mind. Goldfish keeping is one of the best ways to release stress and eliminate tension from your life. Watching your goldfish grow and live is surely a pleasurable experience.

Goldfish are an interesting species, which can live for as long as thirty years if proper care is taken of them. With so much to gain from goldfish keeping, the least you could do is look after them well.

In spite of the relative ease of goldfish keeping, mistakes are still made from time to time. However, if you take the time to learn the basics of goldfish keeping and the common problems involved, you and your goldfish are on your way to a long, beautiful friendship.

A. There are a few things you should know about goldfish keeping.

One of the first things you should know is that goldfish are dirty little creatures. They eat constantly and regurgitate much of their food as well as creating quite a bit of waste. They also have a habit of plowing up the bottom of their tanks for food, making the water dirty and muddy looking. Dirty water is harmful and often fatal to goldfish due to an increase in toxins and a decrease in oxygen.

Fortunately, products like EcoBio-Block are available to help reduce the amount of care and maintenance involved in providing a proper home for your goldfish. It contains beneficial bacteria living and multiplying in the block, which work to clarify cloudy aquarium water naturally.

It is important to understand that a goldfish aquarium is a delicate eco- system. Take your time as well as great care when you are setting up your goldfish’s home. You must ensure a proper balance of microorganisms to maintain a healthy aquarium for your beloved goldfish.

The water in your goldfish aquarium should be completely clean in addition to being well-oxygenated. You will need a good filter as well as an air pump. The oxygen in the aquarium will not only help your goldfish, but also the beneficial bacteria that the EcoBio-Block disperses into the water approximately every half-hour.

B. Illness Is Inevitable

Keeping goldfish healthy is generally obtainable through basic aquarium management. All you have to do is make sure the water is clean, appropriately oxygenated and maintaining a proper temperature. Giving your goldfish a good home and feeding it correctly is usually enough to avoid major problems.

However, even in the most diligently managed aquariums, goldfish do get sick from time to time. Fortunately, it is easy to recognize when something is wrong with your goldfish. Here is a list of some of the most common goldfish problems:

• Ichtyopthirius – bad water can lead to this parasite, which causes small salt-like grain on the fins, gills or skin
• Fin Rot – parts of your goldfish’s tails and fins will appear to be wasting away
• Fungus – a bacterial infection that strikes weak or injured goldfish in a poorly maintained aquarium
• Constipation – can occur from improper feeding

If left untreated, these problems may be fatal to your goldfish. However, if you notice something is wrong with your goldfish and it is promptly treated with the right care, goldfish will usually make a full recovery.

The health of your saltwater aquarium is critical to the survival of your fish and corals. While feeding your fish, some tasks like observing the quality of the water, topping off the water, and checking the water temperature should be done on a daily basis. There are also other tasks you must do on a regular basis to ensure the health of your saltwater aquarium.

How often you will need to perform extensive cleaning will depend on what type of filter system you have.  Filter systems such as Jaubert/Plenum and true Berlin Live Rock don’t require much maintenance, but systems such as canister filters and Wet-Dry Trickle require much more attention.  The specific factors that will determine how often you need to clean your aquarium tank include the following:

• The amount and type of food you feed to your fish.
• The type of filtration that you use.
• The biological load that is on your filtration system.
• Whether you use tank janitors or not.
• How often you use toxin-reducing products like phosphate and nitrate.

Monitoring weekly water tests will also help you determine whether you need to perform cleaning tasks on your tank more often or less often. One way to simplify your maintenance needs is to use EcoBio-Block products. Made of natural zeolite, the blocks contain beneficial bacteria which live and multiply in the block. Dispersing into the water, they break down organic waste and keep your tank clear and healthy. Then all you need to do is observe and take note of certain conditions in your tank to determine how often you need to clean it.

In regards to your fish, you should observe the following:

• Their color, eyes, and fins.
• Their movements in the tank.
• How much food they are consuming.
• Whether they appear to have parasites or not.

In regards to your invertebrates, observe the following:

• Their movements in the tank.
• How much food they are consuming.

Observe the following when it comes to your corals:

• Their color.
• Whether they are open or not.

Here is what to note about the water in your tank:

• The movement of the water.
• The clearness of the water.

In regards to the tank janitors:

• Their effectiveness in cleaning the aquarium
• Their activity.

When observing the substrate:

• Check for the presence of algae.
• See if there is debris, such as uneaten food and detritus.

You should be testing your water parameters at least once per week.  If you notice slight changes in some of your tests, that is usually normal, but keep an eye on them to make sure that they are not the start of some trends that could affect the health of your aquarium.

What are the water parameters you should be keeping track of?

• Temperature
• pH
• Alkalinity
• Salinity
• Ammonia
• Nitrite
• Nitrate
• Calcium
• Iodine
• Phosphate

You should know what the Normal Sea Water (NSW) values are (consult a table that lists these, such as the one found here:  http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/planasystem/ig/Guide-Charts–Tables–Diagrams/Major-Elements-in-Saltwater-.htm) and what the target water test levels (again, consult a table that lists these, such as the one found here:  http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/planasystem/ig/Guide-Charts–Tables–Diagrams/Target-Water-Values.htm).

There might be times when you decide that a major cleaning of your aquarium must be done. It takes a fair amount of time to do it properly, but after you’ve done it a few times, you’ll be able to lessen the time it takes to do it each time.

You should start from the inside of your tank and work outwards. Place some towels on the floor so that any water that spills out does not damage your floor (remember that the water is saltwater, not freshwater, which can increase the chances of the water damaging your floor). Scrub the algae from the submerged equipment and tank walls.  Siphon the clean substrate. Change the water. Top off the new water with new (pre-mixed) saltwater. Test the parameters that were not normal originally and record the new results.  Add supplements if necessary to adjust the levels to appropriate readings.Next, you should deal with your filtration system. Remove debris from the bottom of your sump. Either clean or change the material of the mechanical filter. Check your adsorbents and see if they need to be cleaned or even changed. You should clean your biological filter material by rinsing it in saltwater. Empty your protein skimmer’s collection cup and adjust the water and air flow as needed. You should clean around your light bulbs and fixtures. Replace old bulbs as necessary.

You should make sure that your pumps are free of blockages, cleaning the filters as necessary. You should also check the hose connections to make sure that they are operating at their full capabilities. You should also clean the salt creep (or salt crystals that are behind when saltwater is spilled somewhere and the fresh water evaporates).

Check the amount of debris in your mechanical filter to get a better idea of whether you need to do major cleanings more or less often. When a mechanical filter becomes clogged and overworked, contaminants will either go around the filter material or be forced through the filter, which will only further decrease the effectiveness of your filter.

By keeping a record of your observations, you can adjust how often you perform major maintenance tasks on your saltwater aquarium tank. By following the advice in this article and keeping a regular maintenance schedule, you can have and maintain a healthy saltwater aquarium tank.