Materials Needed:
Plastic embroidery canvas
Scissors
Plastic binding bars

To build a tank divider, measure the width of your aquarium from the front wall to the back, holding the measuring tape against the inside walls of the aquarium. Cut a piece of plastic embroidery canvas to the exact measurement and slide it vertically into the tank. The sides of the canvas should fit snugly against the front and back wall – there should be no gaps through which a betta fish might slip. Trim the top of the embroidery canvas so it sits just below the rim of the tank.

Slide a plastic binding bar onto all four edges of the embroidery canvas, trimming them to the length and width of the canvas. Place the divider back inside the tank to ensure that it fits. If adding the binding bars significantly increases the width of the divider you may need to trim the canvas slightly so that it sits flush with the tank walls.

Build up the substrate against the bottom of the tank divider to remove the possibility that your betta fish can burrow under it to the other side of the tank. If you can, dig a trench in the substrate before sliding the divider into place then fill in the trench once the bottom of the divider sits against the bottom of the tank. Check that the water level in the tank is at least two inches below the top of the divider before introducing your betta fish to their sections of the tank.

Other Considerations for a Divided Tank

While a divided tank is an excellent way to economize your use of tank space in keeping multiple bettas, there are some problems which you will need to address. Plastic embroidery canvas is filled with small holes which allow water to flow from one side of the tank to the other, but whichever side you place the filter on will benefit from higher water quality than the other. You might install your filter as close to the center of the tank as possible or use two smaller filters, one in each corner. Another alternative to this plan is to place a mesh bag full of EcoBio-Pebbles in the section of the tank furthest from the filter. EcoBio-Pebbles are made of porous volcanic rock infused with beneficial bacteria which break down ammonia and help to clarify and purify aquarium water. Once the bacteria have been introduced into your tank through the EcoBio-Pebbles they will multiply and continue to revitalize the water, lessening the frequency of necessary water changes and improving the water quality in your tank. By using EcoBio-Pebbles in your betta tank you can avoid having to purchase a second filter and both sides of the tank will benefit from clear, healthy water.

One type of tropical fish disease is ammonia poisoning.  As the name implies, there is too high a level of ammonia in your tank.  The main symptoms of ammonia poisoning are your fish turning a red-lilac color and they’re floating below the surface panting for air.

The remedy for ammonia poisoning is relatively simple to implement, but it’s important to do this right away or your fish’s health may be compromised on a long-term basis.  You need to understand the cycling process of a new tank to limit the ammonia level of the water, as well as to maintain the pH levels and water temperature of the tank.

An additional help is the EcoBio-Block, which can be very effective in keeping your tank from experiencing ammonia spikes that can cause harm to your fish.

Yet, another type of tropical fish disease is cataracts.  Eye-related infections are often caused by the level of waste in your tank.  Cataracts are usually just fungal growths covering the eyes.  Normal aquarium fungicide is usually a very effective form of treatment for cataracts.

To keep your fish from getting cataracts, it’s important to keep the levels of ammonia and nitrate at acceptable levels.  You can also use the EcoBio-Block products to effectively keep ammonia and nitrate levels at levels that are safe for your fish.

Corneybacteriosis is commonly referred to as bulging eyes because it looks like the fish who have corneybacteriosis have bulging eyes.  Additionally, these fish have swelling in their heads.

Corneybacteriosis is usually caused by a large amount of waste in the tank, which is often caused by having too many fish in the tank.  Keeping the level of waste at a low level is the best defense against your fish contracting corneybacteriosis.  Utilizing EcoBio-Blocks in your tank can establish the nitrogen cycle and keep your water clean and pure, thereby reducing the chances of your fish contracting corneybacteriosis.

Goldfish with dropsy

Another common tropical fish disease is dropsy.  Dropsy makes your fish look bloated and their scales appear to be bursting outward.  Dropsy is usually caused by an internal bacterial infection.

It is important to treat dropsy as quickly as possible; otherwise, further internal damage to your fish could be the result.  Anti-bacterial medication can help to treat the infection, along with raising the aquarium water temperature slightly over the next few weeks.

Ichthyophthiriasis, or what is commonly known as ich, ich is a type of tropical fish disease that is indicated by small white spots covering the fish’s body and fins.  A type of parasite is responsible for causing ich.

Cichlid with ich

Treatment for ich involves gradually raising the water temperature to prevent the spread of the parasites that cause ich.  Once the water becomes clear again, then lower the water temperature back to its previous level.  Anti-ich medication can also be helpful, as this will break the cycle of ich and treat the disease in the water.

As you can see, the main keys to preventing tropical fish diseases is paying attention to your fish and their normal appearances, keeping your aquarium’s ammonia and nitrate levels at acceptable levels, and keeping your water clear. Utilizing the line of Eco-Bio Block products (which need to be removed when using medications), can speed up the nitrogen cycle, minimize the number of times you need to change the aquarium water, and revitalize and clarify the water to avoid tropical fish diseases.

cyano bactria infected water

One of the biggest challenges for aquarium owners is an outbreak of single celled organisms called cyanobacteria. They are casually referred to as blue-green algae because they are typically bluish green in color (although sometimes black or red) and aquatic; they are, in fact, microscopic bacteria that, when prolific, form into shiny sheets that look like algae.

Cyanobacteria also act like algae because they create their own food through photosynthesis. Given enough light and nutrients in the water, cyanobacteria can cause a bacterial bloom that can lead to major problems in the aquarium.

A cyanobacterial bloom may be free-floating greenish brown particles that make the water look hazy. The bacteria may also colonize into ugly films of slimy looking growth covering rocks and plants in the aquarium. Uncontrolled, a bacterial bloom can gather into foam or scum on the surface of the tank and give off a nasty rotten smell. At any rate, the proliferation of cyanobacteria is an indication that the nutrients that feed it – organic matter and waste products – are excessive in the water, which can only mean that the fish are in grave danger.

Cyanobacteria problems can be prevented with good fishkeeping conditions and attentive maintenance. In the event that a cyanobacterial bloom occurs, several steps can be taken, the first of which is to reduce the amount of light exposure in the tank. Because cyanobacteria thrive through photosynthesis, depriving them of light curtails their growth.

Together with reduced lighting, an effective way to fight cyanobacteria is consecutive water changes. Water changes up to 20% every three to four days will reduce the concentration of phosphates and waste material that feed the cyanobacteria. Test kits for nitrates and cyanobacteria are helpful in determining when healthy levels have been achieved. And to prevent future problems, it is best to maintain the aquarium with just the right number of fish, highly efficient filtration, and no over-feedings.

At times, though, cyanobacterial bloom can be unrelenting enough to defy light deprivation and water changes. Some fishkeepers resort to antibacterial chemicals, which could be equally detrimental to fishes and plants. A greener, more eco-friendly solution is the EcoBio-Block Family Products, originally designed and currently being used to degrade toxins and pollutants from lakes, streams, and reservoirs in many Asian countries.

EcoBio-Blocks, EcoBio-Rocks, EcoBio-Stones, and EcoBio-Pebbles are porous, mineral-rich volcanic stones from Japan. They are embedded with prolific beneficial bacteria (“bacillus subtilis natto”) that can actively multiply every half hour into colonies that degrade organic matter and nitrify waste products in the water. Because they degrade the organic matter that feeds cyanobacteria, the internet radio show Pet Fish Talk feels strongly that EcoBio-Block helped clear up their cyanobacteria problem. (click hear the Special Pet Fish Talk titled “Cyanobacteria”)

Cyanobacteria cannot be totally eliminated from the aquarium. Overgrowth and its toxic consequences, however, can be prevented with optimum water conditions through diligent aquarium maintenance together with proven eco-friendly solutions like the EcoBio-Block products.

Click here to view the embedded video.

Guppy fry

Just a word of warning to beginning aquarists, its better not to expect either to breed fishes too soon after purchase, or to rear too big a proportion of fry from eggs that have hatched.
Reality probably hits most often in regard to the bubble-nest-builders.  Expectations are high because, in the first place, they are among the fishes most readily spawned. Secondly, their small eggs are usually numerous, anywhere between 300 and 600 or more being common. With luck most of them hatch. Unless eaten by a parent they live about a week, even without food. At that point the let-down begins, even with food, especially in a small tank, their numbers start to decrease. Indeed if the number reared to half-adult size is 50, it should be considered to be above average. All too often it comes down to half a dozen, or even less. One consolation is that the survivors must be the naturally strong ones, fit for carrying on the reproduction of the family.
Is this infant mortality rate unavoidable? In an aquarium or tank under 15-gallon size the practical answer is yes. The newly-hatched fishes are very small and our guess is that in a small tank there are insufficient amounts of very small infusoria to give the babies a start until they can eat the sizes present in most cultures.
At any rate, the larger the tank, the better the chances. This follows through until one reaches something like an outdoor pool say 5×5 feet, in which approximately 100% of hatched fry may reach maturity, barring other misfortunes. This may explain why the beginner with limited water space should not be too disappointed if only a small proportion of a hatching reaches maturity.  Another way to increase your chances of success is to place an EcoBio-Block in your tank. EcoBio-Block takes care of the toxins that are dangerous to fish while slowly replacing necessary trace minerals, creating a healthy environment for breeding fish and reducing loss.
In referring to “pairs” of any kind, I must touch on the subject of “guaranteed” pairs, usually bought at a good fat premium price. They are usually a disappointment, and not worth the outlay, for they seldom make good. This is not meant to cast any reflection on the honesty of the seller, but pairs that are known to have bred may be “bred out”. No one can tell when time has caught up with fertility. Besides a change of environment may throw a pair out of reproduction rhythm. It is best to develop one’s own breeders if possible.
As to time required for breeding after acquiring a pair, there of course can be no set period of reasonable expectation. I refer mostly to the egg-laying type of fish. They may possibly be ripe for spawning almost at once, but ordinarily they need not only to be well-fed (on live food if possible), but must have time to adjust themselves to new surroundings and changed water. Several weeks are usually needed.
Besides (although we do not know why) some species are difficult, even for experienced aquarists, to get to spawn at all. That is true of most of the Characins (Tetras).
It sometimes happens that a beginner has acquired one or more kinds of fishes that are always difficult (or nearly impossible) to breed, even if they are close relatives of species that are easy to reproduce. Here are a few examples: Corydomr pazleaim, and C. azenezu are often bred, but that is not true of other members of that large family. Razrbommeinkeni is the only one of its numerous family, possibly excepting the “Scissors Tail” (trilineatur), from which success may be more likely.
The live-bearers are more obliging and less sensitive to change. In fact new water and changed surroundings often stimulate them to early delivery. It is from the egg-layers that we should not expect too much too soon.
In any case, optimism is good, but it should be tempered by what may be called “reasonable and realistic expectations.”

Overcrowded Fish Tank

It seems that I begin many of these letters by quoting from some correspondence. After all, what better or more practical source of inspiration can there be? In this instance, the point is one that is brought up rather frequently by beginners in aquarium care, who have not been very successful after having seemingly followed the primary instructions gleaned from books or our dealer friends. They give recommended foods in conservative amounts, have good light and temperature control. But here is where trouble starts, through the acceptance of a fallacious signal as to what constitutes “overcrowding.” The signal watched for is when the fishes gasp at the surface of the water, “blowing bubbles.”
That is a carry-over from the days when goldfish was King. Goldfish and other cool-water fishes are very sensitive to any shortage of oxygen in the water, or the presence of too much carbon dioxide. They quickly express their distress by breathing at the surface. Incidentally, I have often wondered how fishes, never before in such a situation, know enough to get a fresh supply of oxygen at the surface of the water.
Warm-water fishes are better equipped to get along in oxygen-deficient conditions. In a tank containing both goldfish and exotics (a combination not recommended) the goldfish will invariably be the first to register discomfort from overcrowding. The point that I am stressing is that “Tropicals” are apt to “suffer in silence.” When they come to the surface and stay there, conditions are not merely bad, but very bad. Undetected crowding has been present for some time past, indicated by the poor condition of the fishes. Of course such symptoms can come from other causes, but crowding is one of the first to look for. That suspicion can be confirmed if frequent partial changes of water relieves the condition.
Water changes help keep the parameters within acceptable limits, help remove excess organic material such as waste and uneaten food, and also replenish required minerals in the water that the fish use up over time. If you prefer not to do as many water changes or are physically unable to, there are alternatives that can reduce your labor. My favorite is the EcoBio-Block, which is an aquarium care product that introduces beneficial bacteria into the aquarium (which keep the biological filter healthy) and slowly leach necessary minerals into the water to keep fish healthy and help beginners become successful aquarists.
Advising a new aquarist at the height of his frenzy to go slowly in building up his tank of fishes is like talking against the tempest. Recently I fitted out a grandson with an aquarium and a suitable collection of fishes. All was lovely for a few weeks until he was bitten with the desire for more and more.
The dealer could not be blamed for selling to him, but the result was not hard to foresee – a general attack of “Ich.” Overcrowding does not necessarily cause that disease, but reduces the vitality of the fishes so that they are more subject to it.
The elder Rothschild is credited with the wise crack “Nobody ever got poor taking a profit.” I would paraphrase that in reverse: “No aquarist ever got into trouble by having too few fishes:”

The most important thing to keep going in the aquarium is the oxygen exchange. Beneficial bacteria in the tank require a lot of oxygen, so once a filter and aerator stop working the dissolved oxygen depletes very quickly. Once oxygen is depleted the bacteria colonies begin dying off or becoming inactive, allowing ammonia levels to rise. Hardy strains of bacteria such as the bacillus subtilis natto strain used in EcoBio-Block will mostly become inactive, but return to actively breaking down ammonia as soon as proper oxygen levels are restored. This can happen within an hour or two of losing power, depending on stocking levels. Additionally, a lot of beneficial bacteria lives in filter media so if you have a canister filter or HOB filter that keeps the media out of the main body of water a large portion of the aquarium’s bacteria may be unavailable instantly.

This is where planning ahead can be a real lifesaver…and back saver! If your power goes out and you don’t have a generator, having all your aquarium equipment plugged into an uninterrupted power supply is possibly one of the best ways to keep going for short-term outages. Battery-powered aerators are available online and in many pet stores as well and can be a great asset during outages or when traveling with fish. If none of these are available, you can manually facilitate oxygen exchange by filling a pitcher from the tank (here’s where the back comes in) and dumping the water back in, then repeating at regular intervals until power comes back.

Now for temperature control; in cold weather, a watertight container filled with boiling water (provided you have a gas range or access to a wood-burning stove) makes a great heater that will keep fish near it warm. In hot weather, a water-tight container or two or three ziplock baggies inside each other (to prevent leaks) with ice cubes in it will keep water near it cool enough for the fish.

If the power is out for extended periods of time you may have to watch the water parameters closely when the aquarium is functioning again as a lot of beneficial bacteria can die from oxygen deprivation, causing ammonia spikes. To control these you’ll either need to do water changes every day to keep ammonia levels down until the bacteria catches up again, or you can add some new bacteria from products such as EcoBio-Block or BioSpira. BioSpira is a bottled bacteria culture that works well, but has to be refrigerated and has a limited shelf life so it may not be the best for emergency preparation. EcoBio-Block is a water maintenance product that lasts about 1 1/2-2 years in the aquarium; this product introduces and promotes the growth of beneficial bacteria as well as keeps the water parameters healthy, which can reduce fish stress in an emergency. EcoBio-Block is a very valuable maintenance product that will keep the aquarium water healthy every day in addition to emergency uses, but it can take up to a couple of weeks to start working initially so it should already be in place to be effective in an emergency.

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