Aquarium and Pond Care with EcoBio-Block

Even the most novice aquarium hobbyist is likely to understand the importance of routine water changes in keeping an aquarium clean and healthy. Water changes are not only essential for keeping algae growth and aquarium fish diseases at bay, but they are also important in maintaining stable water chemistry. If the water chemistry in your tank changes drastically, your fish could become stressed or even die as a result. In order to avoid such a severe consequence it is wise to understand not only the need for regular water changes but also the proper way to go about performing them.

Why Water Changes are Necessary

Like all living creatures, aquarium fish produce waste and this waste typically sinks to the bottom of the tank where it accumulates with other forms of organic debris like decomposing plant matter and uneaten fish food. Over time, this debris begins to break down and produces ammonia, a substance toxic to fish. Though the beneficial bacteria in an aquarium help to convert ammonia into less harmful substances, these bacteria can only do so much. Water changes are necessary to keep toxins in the tank under control – if you never performed a water change, the chemicals would simply build up in the tank water, making it unsuitable for aquarium fish. Water changes are also needed to replace the water lost through evaporation.

Proper Water Changing Procedure

gravel vacuuming

Though the size and frequency of necessary aquarium water changes may vary slightly according to the species of fish in the tank, most tanks require a weekly water change of 10% to 15% of the tank volume. These regular water changes should be accompanied by a larger 25% water change once a month. To perform a water change most effectively, use a gravel vacuum to siphon the substrate in your tank – this method will remove built-up detritus from the bottom of your tank along with the dirty tank water. If you were to simply scoop out a few gallons of water from the top of the tank you might succeed in diluting some of the toxins present in the water but the build-up in the substrate of the tank would continue to produce ammonia which would eventually lead to a decline in water quality.

Once you have removed the desired amount of water from the tank, the next step is to replace it with clean water. For freshwater tanks, regular tap water can be used as long as it has been dechlorinated. Aquarium hobbyists use a variety of methods to remove chlorine from tap water but the easiest and most effective method is to use a liquid water conditioner. Water conditioners work instantly to remove chlorine and chloramine from tap water, thus making it safe for aquarium fish. If you have a saltwater tank, your water changes may not be so quick or easy. You must mix the saltwater at least 24 hours before you perform the water change and it is best to add the water to the tank through a sump system rather than pouring it directly into the tank.

Tips for Water Changes

To make your water changes easier, select a gravel vacuum proportional to the size of your tank. If you have a small tank, a simple tube-shaped vacuum should be sufficient. For larger tanks, however, gravel vacuums that have wider heads are helpful. Though you cannot get away without ever performing a water change if you want your tank to stay clean and healthy, there are a few things you can do to reduce the frequency of necessary water changes. Adding an EcoBio-Stone to your tank is an easy way to keep your tank water fresh and clean and reducing maintenance needs. EcoBio-Stones are made from natural zeorite and special cement, and they can be added directly to the tank where the beneficial bacteria with which the stone is infused will immediately get to work. These bacteria will establish a colony in your tank, working to maintain the nitrogen cycle so the water in your tank stays clean and the water quality remains high. If you can maintain high water quality in your tank, you will find that you need to perform water changes less often.

Measuring pH with a Meter

Water chemistry is a term used to describe the chemical and physical characteristics of tank water which can be measured using aquarium water test kits. Test kits are typically inexpensive and easy to use, making them an excellent tool for in-home use by aquarium hobbyists. These tests will help you to monitor the basic components of water chemistry – pH, water hardness and chemical content. While many species of freshwater fish are tolerant of a variety of tank conditions, it is always a good idea to keep an eye on the water chemistry in your tank. If the pH spikes or the water becomes too hard, your fish could become stressed and, as a result, could fall ill or even die. By learning the basics of water chemistry you can prevent such a disaster from happening in your tank.

Main Components of Water Chemistry

Perhaps the most important component of water chemistry is pH. PH is a measure of how acidic or alkaline the water in your tank is and it is measured on a scale from 0 to 14. A pH of 7.0 is considered neutral while anything above is alkaline and anything below is acidic. The recommended pH for a fish tank varies depending on the species of fish and the natural environment from which they come. Water hardness, or general hardness, is a measure of the concentration of dissolved ions in tank water. This hardness is measured in degrees – soft water typically measures between 0° and 3.36° degrees of general hardness (°GH) and hard water is between 6.78° and 10.08° GH. Another important aspect of water chemistry is buffering capacity – the ability of tank water to maintain a stable pH. When acids or bases are added to the tank, the buffering capacity of the water is what keeps the pH from spiking or dropping as a result of these additions. All aquariums are likely to contain trace amounts of chemicals and toxins such as ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Keeping an eye on the chemical levels in your tank is a good way to prevent ammonia poisoning and toxicity.

Testing Water Quality

Basic aquarium water test kits are available online and in pet stores, usually for $20 or less. These kits are easy to use and generally work in one of two ways. Some kits include test strips that you simply dip into a cup of tank water while others involve collecting individual water samples and adding drops of test solution. Once you have taken the samples, all you need to do is compare the color of the sample to the color chart included with the test kit in order to determine the measurement of whatever it is you are testing for. It is wise to perform water tests on a weekly basis and you should record the measurements in a journal in order to keep track of any changes.

Tips for Maintaining High Water Quality

The easiest and most effective way to keep the water quality in your tank high is to perform weekly 10% to 20% water changes. These water changes will help to control the waste build-up in your tank and will also ensure that your water chemistry stays stable. Another simple way to keep the water in your tank clean and the water chemistry stable is to introduce an EcoBio-Stone. These stones are made from porous volcanic cement and are infused with unique beneficial bacteria. Once introduced into the tank, these bacteria will multiply to form a colony of nitrifying bacteria which will help to maintain the nitrogen cycle. Placing the EcoBio-Stone will greatly reduce your maintenance needs – the bacteria will do most of the work in helping to keep your tank water clear and the water quality high.

Filtration is the key to keeping your aquarium a clean and healthy environment for your fish. When it comes to choosing a filter, however, it is easy to become overwhelmed by the sheer volume of options available. Before selecting a filter for your aquarium you need to understand the basics of aquarium filtration which includes understanding the three types of filtration. Different types of filters offer different types of filtration and, unless you understand the basics, you will not be equipped to select the right piece of equipment for your tank.

Mechanical Filtration

The most basic, and perhaps the most important, type of aquarium filtration is mechanical filtration. Mechanical filtration simply involves the physical removal of solid waste products from tank water. Generally, solid waste takes the shape of uneaten fish food, decaying plant matter and organic waste like feces. Aquarium filters that offer mechanical filtration usually operate by sucking the aquarium water up through an intake tube. The water is then filtered through some kind of sponge and released back into the aquarium. As the water passes through the sponge, solid waste products become lodged in the pores and are thus removed from the aquarium water. This type of filtration is essential in the home aquarium because, as solid waste accumulates along the bottom of the tank, it breaks down in a process that produces ammonia. Ammonia is a substance toxic to fish and if the ammonia levels in your tank become too high, your fish could become stressed, fall ill or even die.

Chemical Filtration

Chemical filtration is often combined with mechanical filtration as a means of removing dissolved wastes in addition to solid wastes from aquarium water. This type of filtration helps to remove a variety of wastes including proteins, hormones and metabolic waste as well as organic acids and compounds. As the filter takes tank water up through the intake tube, it passes through the sponge along with some type of filter media which removes the dissolved wastes. The most common type of filter media is activated carbon. Most modern filters which incorporate chemical filtration utilize filter cartridges that combine the mechanical filtration of a sponge with the chemical filtration of activated carbon. In order to maximize the effectiveness of these filters, the filter cartridge must be replaced every three to four weeks.

Biological Filtration

The third type of filtration, biological filtration, does not necessarily require any special equipment. Biological filtration is a term used to describe the process by which nitrifying bacteria break down wastes in your tank, converting harmful toxins like ammonia into less harmful nitrates. While mechanical filters work to remove solid wastes, there is likely to still be some build-up in your substrate. As these substances decompose, ammonia is produced. The nitrifying bacteria in your tank work to convert ammonia into nitrites then into nitrates, a process called the Nitrogen Cycle. While some filters incorporate a Bio-wheel designed to provide beneficial bacteria a place to grow, the most common places these bacteria grow is in tank substrate and on in-tank surfaces.

Tips for Aquarium Filtration

Regardless what type of filter you choose for your aquarium, you will be required to perform some basic maintenance tasks. It is wise to rinse your filter once in a while to remove any build-up of slime algae. It is also necessary to replace your filter media every three to four weeks to ensure that your filter will keep your aquarium water clean. In addition to these simple maintenance tasks, you can increase the effectiveness of your aquarium filter by adding an EcoBio-Stone to your tank. EcoBio-Block products are composed of porous volcanic sand and infused with beneficial bacteria. Once introduced into your tank, these bacteria multiply to form a colony of nitrifying bacteria which will help your filter to convert harmful toxins like ammonia into less harmful nitrates. EcoBio-Stones are easy to use and they are a great way to help keep your aquarium water clean and clear.

Using an aquarium vacuum for partial water change

Using an aquarium vacuum for partial water change

One of the first things a novice aquarium owner hears from fish-keeping friends and/or pet store personnel is the need for partial water changes of about 20 percent every few weeks, preferably on the same day of the week so as to have a set interval each time. This news may cause the new owner of an aquarium some apprehension, as they look at the size of their tank and try to figure out just how they are going to change the water without making a big mess.

You have tank owners who do this the hard way. They catch their fish, which can often take a while, and place them in a bucket already filled with water from the tank. Next, they dip out all the water by hand, using a bucket or some other container to do so. They then remove all of the wet, often smelly gravel by hand as well.

By the time the inside walls of the aquarium are spotless, the filter has been cleaned, the gravel rinsed clean, and the water replaced either by walking back and forth from the nearest faucet with a heavy bucket of water, splashing it here and there, or by pulling a garden hose inside, the typical aquarium owner is exhausted.

Other tank owners take a shortcut, which eliminates a good portion of the tank maintenance work. They make use of an aquarium vacuum when they take care of their partial water changes every 21 days or so. The typical aquarium vacuum attaches to a faucet indoors or out, and removes the water with the help of the water pressure from the faucet.

A tube is attached to one end of the aquarium vacuum, and can be pushed into deep gravel to suck out all the mulm waste and uneaten food, leaving cleaner gravel behind. Typically, the entire gravel bed is cleaned in this manner, then the filter medium is changed, and water is re-added to the aquarium.

There are some people who are new to the hobby of keeping fish that assume if taking 20 percent of the water out of the tank, then doing a partial water change of 50 percent or more would be even better. Unfortunately, these folks learn the hard way that removing too much water from an aquarium is not a good thing to do.

Aquarium water has a different chemistry after fish have lived in it for a period of time. Uneaten fish food and the waste products excreted by the fish cause these changes. The fish get used to the water chemistry. When too much of this ìlived inî water is removed, the fish cannot cope with the change, and become quite stressed. The weaker fish will die, often just a short time after they are placed back into the freshly cleaned aquarium. Hardier fish will live longer, perhaps for a few weeks or a couple of months before they also die.

Those uninitiated in fish keeping will swear that their partial water change killed their fish, and harbor the belief that doing partial water changes is not a good thing. They firmly believe that partial water changes should not be done at all if you want your fish to stay alive!

A much easier solution for solving the problem is to make use of the EcoBio-Block family of products. The EcoBio-Block is made from a distinctive type of volcanic rock that has been populated with live, friendly bacteria. These bacteria will grow and reproduce for a two-year period of time as they feed on the uneaten food and fish waste. This helps to keep the water crystal clear and free from odor, and makes frequent water changes unnecessary. You will have much more free time to enjoy the antics of your fish in your beautifully clean aquarium when you use an EcoBio-Block.

You’ve spent a lot of money and time picking out the right fish for your aquarium and you think you’ve got it just right. Then you start losing some valuable fish. How does this happen and what can you do to prevent this tragedy?

There can be a lot of reasons why your fish are dying. Generally, it happens when a fish tank is new. It pays to buy an aquarium water test kit to determine how much ammonia, nitrites and nitrates are in the aquarium, and how high or low the pH is. These are the four most important tests for your tank.

In the nitrogen cycle of the fish tank, an important biological cycle, the fish give off nitrogenous wastes when they eliminate and these products break down into ammonia, which is very toxic to most fishes. In aquariums, this nitrogen product can build up into levels that are harmful to your fish. When you measure the ammonia level, it should be negligible.

The nitrogen cycle, is the process of getting rid of ammonia using nitrifying bacteria that convert the ammonia to nitrite and then to nitrate, which is not as hazardous. The cycle goes from ammonia to nitrite to nitrate. These bacteria are present everywhere and establish themselves eventually in your fish tank as soon as the ammonia builds up. It is a slow process, however, and you can lose fish in the meantime.

One way of improving the nitrogen status of your aquarium is to purchase an EcoBio-Block Products that contains the nitrifying bacteria within the block. You rinse the block and soak it in chlorine free water over night before placing it in your tank. Normally, in a few weeks or so, you can have your ammonia levels drop followed by drops in nitrite levels. You can safely put your fish in then and expect that they will survive.

The other thing is to take a couple of hardy and cheap fish and put them in your tank. Don’t overfeed the fish. More food means that more ammonia will build up. For freshwater fish, try some zebra danios or some barbs. For saltwater tanks, use damselfish. Don’t use feeder fish for your tank as they can introduce unwanted diseases in your tank. The initial cheap fish you put into the tank get the nitrogen cycle going and you can then add more delicate and expensive fish to your tank.

Use your test kit to determine the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate level in your tank and use this as a guide for how healthy your tank is. It takes time for the bacteria to develop unless you are using a EcoBio-Stone to speed up the nitrification process.

Poor pH can also be a cause of a loss of fish. The pH is a measure of how acidic or how alkaline a fish tank is. Ideally, the pH should be around 7.0, which is “neutral”. However, fish can generally tolerate pH of 5.5 to 8.0. You can get a test strip to measure the level and if you need to change it, look at ways to change the pH slowly.

If your water contains buffers, you will not be able to change the pH very easily. Remember, too, that fish can tolerate a wide range of pH levels but do not tolerate sudden changes in pH.  Sometimes it’s better to leave the pH alone as long as your fish are thriving.

If you still think you need to adjust the pH, one way to lower it slowly is to add some driftwood to your fish tank or to the tank. A cleaned off seashell or coral skeleton will gradually increase the pH of your aquarium. The downside of both these solutions is that they will stain the color of the water brown or yellow for quite a while, but it will alter the pH in a safe way.

Maintain your tank well and you can have a healthy, happy fish population.