Aquarium and Pond Care with EcoBio-Block

If you are new to the aquarium hobby you may think that breeding aquarium fish involves some complicated procedure that only experienced hobbyists can handle. The truth is, however, that even beginning aquarium hobbyists can achieve success in breeding aquarium fish if they are equipped with the proper knowledge. In order to spawn your fish you simply need to learn the basics about breeding and apply that knowledge to the specific requirements of the species you are trying to breed.

Basics of Breeding Aquarium Fish

pregnant guppy

The first thing you need to know about breeding aquarium fish is that they can be divided into two categories based on the type of breeder they are – livebearer or egg layer. Livebearers undergo internal fertilization and give birth to live fry. Egg layers, on the other hand, may spawn via either internal or external fertilization and the young are born in eggs. If your fish are egg layers, you may need to delve a little deeper to determine which type of egg layer the species is. Egg laying species of fish may be egg scatterers – fish that scatter their eggs among fine-leaved plants – or they could be egg depositors which deposit their eggs on flat rocks or hide them in caves. Some species build nests for their eggs or actually take the eggs into their mouths where they will be protected until hatching.

Breeding Tank Requirements

While each species of fish may have certain requirements for breeding tanks, the general principles remain the same for most species. The breeding tank does not need to be large – a 15- or 20- gallon tank should be sufficient. In order to facilitate easy cleaning, keep the tank bottom bare with the exception of fine-leaved plants for egg scatterers and broad-leaved plants or flat rocks for egg depositors. Outfit the tank with an aquarium heater to help maintain a stable water temperature and install a sponge filter in one corner of the tank. A sponge filter will provide the necessary mechanical filtration and will provide a place for beneficial bacteria to grow while producing a current gentle enough that eggs and newly hatched fry will not be put at risk. Once you have the basic setup for your breeding tank completed you can make adjustments based on the specific requirements of the species.

Spawning Aquarium Fish

Before introducing your fish into the breeding tank it is wise to condition the breeding pair on healthy live foods for at least a week. Once you introduce the fish, keep a close watch on them to be sure they get along. Some fish will spawn readily upon being introduced into the breeding tank while others may require several hours or even days to breed. During this time, monitor your fish to be sure the male does not overly antagonize the female. After spawning has occurred you may want to remove the parent fish from the tank so they do not eat their eggs. Some species exhibit parental care behaviors, however, in guarding and feeding their young so do some research beforehand to determine whether your fish will do so.

Additional Tips and Considerations

As is true of any aquarium, maintaining high water quality in the breeding tank is extremely important. If the water quality in the tank is poor, your breeding pair may not be inclined to spawn. If spawning does occur, poor water quality could lead to an increased risk of the eggs succumbing to fungus. To keep the water in your breeding tank clean and clear, consider adding a mesh bag full of EcoBio-Pebbles to the aquarium. EcoBio-Pebbles are made from porous volcanic rock and are infused with beneficial bacteria and essential nutrients. After the bacteria have been introduced into your breeding tank they will multiply rapidly to form a colony that will help establish and maintain the nitrogen cycle, keeping your tank water pure and healthy. By keeping the EcoBio-Pebbles in a mesh bag you can keep the bottom of your breeding tank bare for easy cleaning while still benefiting from the water clarifying quality of the pebbles themselves.

Measuring pH with a Meter

Water chemistry is a term used to describe the chemical and physical characteristics of tank water which can be measured using aquarium water test kits. Test kits are typically inexpensive and easy to use, making them an excellent tool for in-home use by aquarium hobbyists. These tests will help you to monitor the basic components of water chemistry – pH, water hardness and chemical content. While many species of freshwater fish are tolerant of a variety of tank conditions, it is always a good idea to keep an eye on the water chemistry in your tank. If the pH spikes or the water becomes too hard, your fish could become stressed and, as a result, could fall ill or even die. By learning the basics of water chemistry you can prevent such a disaster from happening in your tank.

Main Components of Water Chemistry

Perhaps the most important component of water chemistry is pH. PH is a measure of how acidic or alkaline the water in your tank is and it is measured on a scale from 0 to 14. A pH of 7.0 is considered neutral while anything above is alkaline and anything below is acidic. The recommended pH for a fish tank varies depending on the species of fish and the natural environment from which they come. Water hardness, or general hardness, is a measure of the concentration of dissolved ions in tank water. This hardness is measured in degrees – soft water typically measures between 0° and 3.36° degrees of general hardness (°GH) and hard water is between 6.78° and 10.08° GH. Another important aspect of water chemistry is buffering capacity – the ability of tank water to maintain a stable pH. When acids or bases are added to the tank, the buffering capacity of the water is what keeps the pH from spiking or dropping as a result of these additions. All aquariums are likely to contain trace amounts of chemicals and toxins such as ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Keeping an eye on the chemical levels in your tank is a good way to prevent ammonia poisoning and toxicity.

Testing Water Quality

Basic aquarium water test kits are available online and in pet stores, usually for $20 or less. These kits are easy to use and generally work in one of two ways. Some kits include test strips that you simply dip into a cup of tank water while others involve collecting individual water samples and adding drops of test solution. Once you have taken the samples, all you need to do is compare the color of the sample to the color chart included with the test kit in order to determine the measurement of whatever it is you are testing for. It is wise to perform water tests on a weekly basis and you should record the measurements in a journal in order to keep track of any changes.

Tips for Maintaining High Water Quality

The easiest and most effective way to keep the water quality in your tank high is to perform weekly 10% to 20% water changes. These water changes will help to control the waste build-up in your tank and will also ensure that your water chemistry stays stable. Another simple way to keep the water in your tank clean and the water chemistry stable is to introduce an EcoBio-Stone. These stones are made from porous volcanic cement and are infused with unique beneficial bacteria. Once introduced into the tank, these bacteria will multiply to form a colony of nitrifying bacteria which will help to maintain the nitrogen cycle. Placing the EcoBio-Stone will greatly reduce your maintenance needs – the bacteria will do most of the work in helping to keep your tank water clear and the water quality high.

When you are first starting out in the aquarium hobby it is wise to stock your tank with hardy species that are tolerant of varying water conditions. Because it may take some time before you get the hang of maintaining stable water chemistry, you should only keep species of fish that will be forgiving of the mistakes you are likely to make. If, for example, the pH in your tank fluctuates or your heater malfunctions and the temperature in your tank drops several degrees in one day, hardy species of fish will be better equipped to handle these conditions than more delicate species. Whereas delicate or sensitive species of fish could become stressed in either of these situations – or even die as a result of the changes in water chemistry – hardy species of fish will simply adapt to the changes.

Small Species of Fish

Neon Tetras

Many of the smaller species of freshwater fish you are likely to see in pet stores are hardy and tolerant of varying water conditions. Some of the most popular small species for beginning aquarists include neon tetras, danios, barbs and livebearers such as guppies, mollies and swordtails. Do not think that just because a species of fish is easy to care for that they are also boring – guppies, for example, are known for the vibrant colors and patterns displayed by males of the species. Mollies, platies and swordtails are also available in a wide variety of colors and can be mixed in different combinations to create a colorful array for your first tank. Keep in mind when selecting small species of fish for your first tank that many of these species prefer to be kept in groups with others of their kind and, because they are small, they should not be kept with large or aggressive fish.

Medium and Large Species

One of the most recognizable species of freshwater fish is the angelfish. Not only is this species very popular, but it is also a fairly hardy species, easy to maintain in the home aquarium. Another popular group of fish for new aquarium hobbyists is the gourami family. Gouramis can be found in many different color combinations and most species are hardy, peaceful fish well suited to the community tank. Pearl gouramis, for example, have a very mild temperament and exhibit beautiful coloration that can enhance the aesthetic appeal of any community tank. Another species recommended for new aquarium hobbyists is the plecostomus. Small plecostomus are great for community tanks and require little care because the majority of their diet is gleaned from algae growths and uneaten fish food. When stocking your tank with medium and large species, keep in mind that as these fish grow they may become territorial. This is particularly true regarding plecostomus and male gouramis.

Tips for Starting a New Tank

If you are starting your first tank, there are a few things you need to do in order to ensure that the tank is a safe and healthy environment for fish. Not only do you need to make sure you dechlorinate the tank water and install all of the necessary equipment, you also need to cycle the tank before you can add any fish. The nitrogen cycle is the process through which nitrifying bacteria in your tank convert harmful toxins like ammonia into nitrites and then into less harmful nitrates. Adding an EcoBio-Stone is a simple way to introduce some of these bacteria into your tank to help start a colony for maintaining the nitrogen cycle. EcoBio-Stones are made of porous volcanic cement and are infused with beneficial bacteria. Once these bacteria enter your tank they will multiply and work to keep the water clean and clear while also helping to maintain the nitrogen cycle. Though the species of fish previously mentioned are tolerant of changing water conditions, all fish are more likely to thrive in a clean tank where the water parameters remain stable.

Algae growth is a nuisance that most aquarium hobbyists have trouble with at one time or another. Excessive algae growth is something that can creep up slowly or it may suddenly take over your tank in the form of an algae bloom. If you hope to control algae growth in your tank, you first need to cultivate an understanding of the different types of aquarium algae. Once you know the basics you will be able to identify the algae growing in your tank and you will then be able to take the proper steps to control it.

Types of Algae in the Aquarium

from left: brown algae, green algae, and thread algae

Brown Algae = This is the most common type of aquarium algae and it is likely to be found in new tanks as well as aquariums with low lighting. Also called diatoms, brown algae presents in the shape of soft clumps that form on aquarium walls and décor. This type of algae can be easily removed by hand and it can be controlled through the introduction of live plants or algae eaters like aquarium snails and Otocinclus catfish.

Green Algae = This type of algae usually presents as green water in the aquarium and it is often a result of poor water quality. Green algae, also called an algae bloom, grows quickly in tanks that have too much light and in new tanks that haven’t been cycled correctly. Because it typically forms a film on tank walls and décor, green algae can easily be wiped off and it usually goes away on its own once the tank conditions have stabilized.

Cyanobacteria = Often called blue/green algae, cyanobacteria are actually microscopic organisms that spread throughout the tank in slimy blue/green sheets. This type of algae can be removed easily by hand and its growth should be controlled or it may result in the death of fish and aquarium plants.

Green Spot Algae = Presenting in the form of hard green spots on tank walls and plants, this type of algae is one of the most stubborn. Green spot algae is typically found in tanks exposed to too much light and tanks with low CO₂ and Phosphate levels. The best way to remove this type of algae is by scraping it away with a razor blade – few species of algae eaters are successful in removing green spot algae growths.

Red/Brush Algae = Brush algae, also called red algae, tends to collect on slow-growing aquarium plants. This type of algae can grow in either acidic or alkaline conditions and it is difficult to remove by hand. Siamese algae eaters are one of the only known species that are effective in controlling this type of algae growth.

Thread Algae = This type of algae takes the form of long threads which grow up to 30cm long and hang on to leaf edges. Thread algae is likely to grow in tanks that are low in iron and it can easily be removed by twirling the growths around a toothbrush. This type of algae can be controlled through the introduction of Siamese algae eaters into the tank.

Tips for Controlling Aquarium Algae

In order to keep algae levels low in your aquarium you need to limit the nutrients available and make the tank environment less ideal for algae growth. Keeping your tank clean through routine water changes and by limiting the amount of food you give your fish are two simple ways to limit the nutrients available to algae. Live aquarium plants are another great solution because plants will compete with algae for nutrients, thus limiting the ability of algae to grow. Keeping your tank out of direct sunlight and limiting your use of artificial light to 10 or 12 hours a day are the best ways to make your tank environment less likely to encourage algae growth.

Another simple way to keep your tank clean and clear is to introduce an EcoBio-Stone. An EcoBio-Stone is made of porous volcanic rock and is infused with unique beneficial bacteria. Once they have been introduced into your tank, these bacteria will multiply and help to maintain the nitrogen cycle. The nitrogen cycle is simply the process through which wastes are broken down and the resulting ammonia is converted into nitrates. Once you install an EcoBio-Stone in your tank, the beneficial bacteria will take over, helping to keep your tank water clean and clear. A clean aquarium is less likely to experience excess algae growth and it will be a healthier environment for your fish.

Many inexperienced aquarium hobbyists make the mistake of selecting the fish for their planted tank on a whim. They simply walk into the pet store, purchase a few species that they like and take them home. If you follow this method you may find that after a few days in your tank, or even a few hours, your fish will have devoured all of the plants you worked so hard to raise. In order to avoid this kind of disaster you should perform some basic research to determine which species of aquarium fish are not likely to eat the plants in your tank.

Types of Fish That Eat Aquarium Plants

While many species of aquarium fish are likely to nibble on the plants in your aquarium, some are capable of decimating your entire planted aquarium in a matter of hours. Silver dollar fish, for example, are particularly notorious plant eaters. Other species like mollies and swordtails may nibble at your plants but will rarely do any major damage. Though they may not actually eat your aquarium plants, some larger species like gouramis and cichlids may uproot and break apart the plants in your tank and algae eaters may chew holes in them.

Species of Fish Safe for Planted Tanks

If you have taken the time to cultivate a planted tank you should also make the effort to ensure that the fish you add to your tank will not destroy all of your hard work. Most small, community species of fish pose no threat to aquarium plants. Barbs, tetras, danios and guppies are all unlikely to do anything more than pick flakes of food from the leaves of aquarium plants. Even some of the slightly larger species like discus, killifish and dwarf gouramis are safe for planted tanks. Other species that are recommended for planted tanks include corydoras catfish, platties, gobies, minnows and betta fish.

Tips for Maintaining a Planted Tank

Healthy Planted Tank

There are many benefits to cultivating live aquarium plants in your tank. Not only do live plants enhance the aesthetic appeal of your tank but they can also increase the oxygen level and help filter out harmful toxins. In order to keep your aquarium plants healthy you need to provide a healthy aquarium environment. To create this type of environment you will need adequate light, nutrition and filtration.

In addition to these three things there is something else you can do to keep your tank a clean, healthy environment for your plants and fish. Introduce an EcoBio-Planter to your mid-size aquarium as a simple way to remove odors and clarify your tank water (for larger tanks, simply add another planter or a stone). EcoBio-Planters are made from natural zeolite and crushed stone which has been infused with beneficial bacteria. Once introduced to your tank, these bacteria will multiply and establish a colony that will then work to break down wastes, remove odors and speed up the nitrogen cycle. EcoBio-Planter is also terrific for your plants. Simply place a small root ball in the opening and the plant will grow and thrive, greatly adding to the beauty of your planted aquarium.