Aquarium and Pond Care with EcoBio-Block

Algae growth is a nuisance that most aquarium hobbyists have trouble with at one time or another. Excessive algae growth is something that can creep up slowly or it may suddenly take over your tank in the form of an algae bloom. If you hope to control algae growth in your tank, you first need to cultivate an understanding of the different types of aquarium algae. Once you know the basics you will be able to identify the algae growing in your tank and you will then be able to take the proper steps to control it.

Types of Algae in the Aquarium

from left: brown algae, green algae, and thread algae

Brown Algae = This is the most common type of aquarium algae and it is likely to be found in new tanks as well as aquariums with low lighting. Also called diatoms, brown algae presents in the shape of soft clumps that form on aquarium walls and décor. This type of algae can be easily removed by hand and it can be controlled through the introduction of live plants or algae eaters like aquarium snails and Otocinclus catfish.

Green Algae = This type of algae usually presents as green water in the aquarium and it is often a result of poor water quality. Green algae, also called an algae bloom, grows quickly in tanks that have too much light and in new tanks that haven’t been cycled correctly. Because it typically forms a film on tank walls and décor, green algae can easily be wiped off and it usually goes away on its own once the tank conditions have stabilized.

Cyanobacteria = Often called blue/green algae, cyanobacteria are actually microscopic organisms that spread throughout the tank in slimy blue/green sheets. This type of algae can be removed easily by hand and its growth should be controlled or it may result in the death of fish and aquarium plants.

Green Spot Algae = Presenting in the form of hard green spots on tank walls and plants, this type of algae is one of the most stubborn. Green spot algae is typically found in tanks exposed to too much light and tanks with low CO₂ and Phosphate levels. The best way to remove this type of algae is by scraping it away with a razor blade – few species of algae eaters are successful in removing green spot algae growths.

Red/Brush Algae = Brush algae, also called red algae, tends to collect on slow-growing aquarium plants. This type of algae can grow in either acidic or alkaline conditions and it is difficult to remove by hand. Siamese algae eaters are one of the only known species that are effective in controlling this type of algae growth.

Thread Algae = This type of algae takes the form of long threads which grow up to 30cm long and hang on to leaf edges. Thread algae is likely to grow in tanks that are low in iron and it can easily be removed by twirling the growths around a toothbrush. This type of algae can be controlled through the introduction of Siamese algae eaters into the tank.

Tips for Controlling Aquarium Algae

In order to keep algae levels low in your aquarium you need to limit the nutrients available and make the tank environment less ideal for algae growth. Keeping your tank clean through routine water changes and by limiting the amount of food you give your fish are two simple ways to limit the nutrients available to algae. Live aquarium plants are another great solution because plants will compete with algae for nutrients, thus limiting the ability of algae to grow. Keeping your tank out of direct sunlight and limiting your use of artificial light to 10 or 12 hours a day are the best ways to make your tank environment less likely to encourage algae growth.

Another simple way to keep your tank clean and clear is to introduce an EcoBio-Stone. An EcoBio-Stone is made of porous volcanic rock and is infused with unique beneficial bacteria. Once they have been introduced into your tank, these bacteria will multiply and help to maintain the nitrogen cycle. The nitrogen cycle is simply the process through which wastes are broken down and the resulting ammonia is converted into nitrates. Once you install an EcoBio-Stone in your tank, the beneficial bacteria will take over, helping to keep your tank water clean and clear. A clean aquarium is less likely to experience excess algae growth and it will be a healthier environment for your fish.

Many inexperienced aquarium hobbyists make the mistake of selecting the fish for their planted tank on a whim. They simply walk into the pet store, purchase a few species that they like and take them home. If you follow this method you may find that after a few days in your tank, or even a few hours, your fish will have devoured all of the plants you worked so hard to raise. In order to avoid this kind of disaster you should perform some basic research to determine which species of aquarium fish are not likely to eat the plants in your tank.

Types of Fish That Eat Aquarium Plants

While many species of aquarium fish are likely to nibble on the plants in your aquarium, some are capable of decimating your entire planted aquarium in a matter of hours. Silver dollar fish, for example, are particularly notorious plant eaters. Other species like mollies and swordtails may nibble at your plants but will rarely do any major damage. Though they may not actually eat your aquarium plants, some larger species like gouramis and cichlids may uproot and break apart the plants in your tank and algae eaters may chew holes in them.

Species of Fish Safe for Planted Tanks

If you have taken the time to cultivate a planted tank you should also make the effort to ensure that the fish you add to your tank will not destroy all of your hard work. Most small, community species of fish pose no threat to aquarium plants. Barbs, tetras, danios and guppies are all unlikely to do anything more than pick flakes of food from the leaves of aquarium plants. Even some of the slightly larger species like discus, killifish and dwarf gouramis are safe for planted tanks. Other species that are recommended for planted tanks include corydoras catfish, platties, gobies, minnows and betta fish.

Tips for Maintaining a Planted Tank

Healthy Planted Tank

There are many benefits to cultivating live aquarium plants in your tank. Not only do live plants enhance the aesthetic appeal of your tank but they can also increase the oxygen level and help filter out harmful toxins. In order to keep your aquarium plants healthy you need to provide a healthy aquarium environment. To create this type of environment you will need adequate light, nutrition and filtration.

In addition to these three things there is something else you can do to keep your tank a clean, healthy environment for your plants and fish. Introduce an EcoBio-Planter to your mid-size aquarium as a simple way to remove odors and clarify your tank water (for larger tanks, simply add another planter or a stone). EcoBio-Planters are made from natural zeolite and crushed stone which has been infused with beneficial bacteria. Once introduced to your tank, these bacteria will multiply and establish a colony that will then work to break down wastes, remove odors and speed up the nitrogen cycle. EcoBio-Planter is also terrific for your plants. Simply place a small root ball in the opening and the plant will grow and thrive, greatly adding to the beauty of your planted aquarium.

Aquarium Substrate

When it comes to setting up your aquarium for the first time one of the most important decisions you can make is what type of substrate to use. Many first-time aquarium hobbyists do not even realize that they have a choice beyond natural or colored gravel. While gravel serves its purpose well as an aquarium substrate, there are other options and some of these options have additional benefits for your tank. If you plan to keep live aquarium plants in your tank it is especially important for you to choose a substrate wisely.

Different Types of Substrates

Gravel : As one of the most readily available types of substrate, gravel is also one of the most popular. Not only is gravel easy to find and inexpensive to purchase but it comes in a variety of shapes and sizes which makes it a great option for hobbyists who want to customize their tank. Another benefit of gravel substrate is that it can be relatively easy to clean – you can simply remove it from the tank and rinse it in warm tap water until the water runs clear. Gravel can also serve as a base for the growth of beneficial bacteria but it does not provide any nutrients to support the growth of live aquarium plants.

Sand: Sea sand is not recommended for freshwater aquariums but it is popular for use in marine aquariums. This type of sand often contains impurities which can cloud the water and it may also contain pieces of shell or coral that can raise the pH in the tank. Play sand, however, makes an excellent substrate for freshwater aquariums because it has been sterilized and requires less-frequent cleaning than aquarium gravel. Aragonite is another popular type of sand substrate that is useful in buffering pH levels in saltwater aquariums.

Vermiculate: This substance is a substrate composed of the minerals aluminum, iron and magnesium. This substrate has a high cation exchange rate which helps aquarium plants to utilize nutrients. Vermiculate is an excellent substrate for planted tanks because it releases nutrients over a long period of time which negates the use of fertilizers. The best way to use this substrate is as a lower layer on the bottom of the tank covered or mixed with a layer of gravel.

Laterite: Laterite is a type of porous clay, often reddish in color, which can be used as a substrate in freshwater aquariums. This type of substrate attracts and holds nutrients, storing them until they can be utilized by aquarium plants. Like vermiculate, this substrate is best used as a lower layer in the home aquarium, covered by a layer of sand or gravel.

Tips for Using Aquarium Substrate

Do not think you need to limit yourself to one particular type of substrate. If you have a planted tank it is wise to combine several types of substrate, like vermiculate and laterite, with gravel or another substrate in order to provide the necessary nutrients. In conjunction with the right substrate, introducing an EcoBio-Stone is a great way to keep your tank clean and healthy. EcoBio-Block products are made from porous volcanic cement that has been infused with beneficial bacteria. Once introduced into your tank, these bacteria multiply and help to keep your tank water clear and odor-free which results in less maintenance on your part and a healthier environment for your fish.

Setting up a new tank

After purchasing an aquarium and bringing it home, many novice aquarium hobbyists mistakenly believe that the most difficult task is behind them. It can be very hard, after all, to choose just one tank from among a wide variety of choices in aquarium sizes and shapes. Once you get your new aquarium home, however, the real work begins. If you take time to make the necessary preparations and research the proper procedure, setting up your first freshwater aquarium will be less of a hassle and your job will be much easier down the line when it comes to routine care and maintenance.

Selecting a Location

Place your aquarium on top of a sturdy cabinet or aquarium stand and position it somewhere you will be able to enjoy it. When selecting a location for your tank, keep in mind that if you place it in direct sunlight you will have problems with algae growth. It is also important to consider accessibility when selecting a location for your tank so that routine cleaning and maintenance does not become difficult.

Basic Set-Up Tips

1. Rinse the aquarium along with any gravel, plants and decorations in warm tap water. When rinsing gravel or substrate, stir the gravel well and flush it with water until the overflow runs clear.

2. Attach your aquarium background to the back of the tank using clear tape.

3. Pour the clean gravel into the tank then fill it about 2/3 full with warm tap water. Place a flat rock in the center of the tank and pour the water in over the rock to avoid scattering the gravel.

4. Check the water temperature in the tank as you fill it using an in-tank thermometer, adding warmer or cooler water as needed to keep the temperature between 70° and 76° Fahrenheit.

5. Set up your power filter according to the manufacturer’s instruction, but do not plug it in.

6. Mount your submersible aquarium heater on the wall of the tank, but do not plug it in. Leave adequate space around the heater to ensure even distribution of heated water and do not rest any decorations up against the heater itself.

7. Install your decorations and plants in the aquarium. Position the tallest plants near the back of the aquarium and place smaller plants up front.

8. Fill the tank the rest of the way with warm tap water and add your choice of dechlorinating solution, following the instructions on the bottle to determine how much to use.

9. Plug in your heater and filter and adjust them to the appropriate settings. Read the instructions included with your filter to determine whether you need to fill the filter with water before plugging it in.

10. Wait at least 24 hours before adding any fish to your aquarium. This will give the tank temperature time to stabilize and the nitrogen cycling process time to begin.

Other Tips for a Healthy Aquarium

In order to keep your aquarium running properly you need to establish a base of beneficial bacteria – a process often referred to as cycling the tank. Adding a few fish to the tank at a time is one of the most common ways to begin building a colony of beneficial bacteria but installing an EcoBio-Stone to your tank can help you to jumpstart the process. EcoBio-Block products are made of porous volcanic cement block infused with beneficial bacteria that will multiply upon being introduced into your tank. These bacteria help to speed up the nitrogen cycle, keeping the water in your tank clean and clear for your fish to enjoy and reduce the frequency of necessary water changes.

Tropical Freshwater Aquarium

When it comes to the home aquarium, many people do not realize that there are more than two options: freshwater or saltwater. These two categories contain a number of different options for the experienced aquarium hobbyist to explore. The tropical community tank is generally recommended for novice aquarium hobbyists but those who have a great deal of experience with fishkeeping may enjoy moving on to the challenge of a coldwater or brackish aquarium. Along with the challenge of a new type of freshwater aquarium come new species of fish, new options for decorations and greater satisfaction.
Tropical Freshwater Aquariums

Many aquarium hobbyists choose the tropical freshwater aquarium because it is relatively inexpensive and easy to maintain. While saltwater tanks require specialized equipment like protein skimmers, most tropical freshwater tanks require only a submersible aquarium heater, filter and lighting. Most of this equipment can be programmed, making it a virtually hands-free system even the most inexperienced aquarium hobbyist can use without difficulty. In addition to these benefits, tropical freshwater fish are relatively easy to find in stores and there is, in general, a greater variety from which to choose in this category than in other categories of freshwater fish.
Coldwater Aquariums

Goldfish are the most commonly recognized species of coldwater fish but certain species of barbs, tetras and danios can tolerate water temperatures in the low 60’s as can guppies, white clouds and loaches. While some of these fish are not as brightly colored as the more popular tropical species, it may be worth it to simplify the aquarium set-up by eliminating the need for heating equipment. Just because an aquarium heater is not necessary, however, does not always mean that coldwater tanks are easier to manage than tropical freshwater tanks. You may need to purchase an aquarium chiller to keep the water temperature low enough for some species and some fish have specific needs that may require extra equipment. Goldfish, for example, have one of the highest waste outputs of any species of freshwater fish and require highly-oxygenated water which may necessitate an extra filter or an aerator.

Adding an EcoBio-Stone or EcoBio-Planter to your coldwater tank is an easy way to help keep a tank full of goldfish clean. EcoBio products are made from natural volcanic stone and are infused with beneficial bacteria. After being introduced into your tank, these bacteria multiply to create a colony of nitrifying bacteria which will help to break down wastes, keeping the water in your tank clean and clear between routine water changes for approximately 2 years.
Brackish Water Aquariums

The word brackish refers to a mix of saltwater and freshwater and it describes the type of aquatic environment found in estuaries, coastal streams and saltwater swamps. When it comes to setting up a brackish tank, the necessary equipment is generally the same as for a tropical freshwater tank – filter, heater and lighting. Where a brackish aquarium differs from a typical tropical freshwater tank is in the tank environment. Brackish aquariums are usually filled with a dark substrate like sand and live plants and driftwood which are the staples of brackish tank décor.

In order to create a true brackish environment, salt must be added to the water to achieve a specific gravity between 1.002 and 1.025 depending on the fish you plan to raise. Some popular species of brackish aquarium fish include swordtails, mollies, loaches, gobies and catfish. While several plants commonly used in tropical freshwater aquariums can survive in a brackish environment, plants like cabomba, vallisneria and mangroves are best-suited for this type of tank. Brackish water aquariums may be more difficult to care for than a simple tropical freshwater tank, but experienced aquarium hobbyists may appreciate the challenge.