Aquarium and Pond Care with EcoBio-Block

Useful, interesting and must-know articles about aquarium and pond care

Choosing The Best Aquarium Filter For Your Fish

variety of aquarium filters

Variety of aquarium filters

Many people are choosing to have aquariums with many different types of fish in them. Certainly, they are beautiful and relaxing to look at, but it takes some knowledge and work to ensure that your fish remain healthy and that your aquarium looks as good as you envision it will. One of the ways to ensure that it does is by choosing the best aquarium filter for your fish.

Even before deciding upon the filter, you need to decide what type of aquarium you will have. If this will be your first aquarium, it’s advisable that you start with a small aquarium first, as they are a little easier to maintain. Plus, you can always upgrade to a larger aquarium if the need and desire arise later.

Second, you need to carefully consider what filter will work best with your chosen aquarium. The filter is vital equipment, as it removes impurities from the water of your aquarium either via fine physical obstacles or via chemical processes. Choosing the right type of filter now can save you from hours of backbreaking maintenance work later on.

You should consider all three types of filters: biological, chemical, and mechanical.

Wet-dry filters actually employ all three types of filtration systems mentioned above, leading to less maintenance requirements than other types of filters. Wet-dry filters are more expensive, however, so they may not be the best choice for people who have an aquarium for the first time and/or are on a limited budget.

The three types of filters use different types of processes in order to eliminate the impurities in the water and to make the water cleaner and safer for your fish. Biological filters use bacteria to crack ammonia and nitrites.  Chemical filters use activated charcoal in order to eliminate unwanted dissolved wastes from the water. Mechanical filters use filtering particles and filter floss in order to remove impurities from the water.

If you choose to use a biological filter, it’s important to add the filter to the aquarium BEFORE you add the fish. You should also NOT add too many fish to the aquarium too soon, as the bacteria from the biological filter needs time to reduce the ammonia and nitrate levels. Too many fish in the water will cause the biological filter to work overtime, and the bacteria won’t be able to keep up with the increased demand, leading to high ammonia levels and the deaths of your fish.

You can help to make sure that there are enough bacteria in the water by using EcoBio-Block® products, which regularly adds nitrifying bacteria to new aquariums so that the water in your aquarium is safer and more beneficial for your fish. This will keep your water clear and healthy and reduce maintenance work.

One of the best choices of aquarium filters, especially for new and inexperienced aquarium owners, is an undergravel filter. This type of filter is inexpensive and totally keeps out debris from the aquarium. It also pulls water that is rich in oxygen through the gravel to help make the aquarium environment more livable for your fish.

One other type of filtration for you to consider is a sponge filter.  This filter is one that provides both mechanical and biological filtration. It has a large foam rubber (like a sponge) block that is connected to a lift tube or small power head. Water is drawn through the sponge to remove small particles from the water and to help grow bacteria that will keep your pond in great condition for your fish and plants.

Having your own aquarium tank can be a wonderful experience, as the beautiful fish can mesmerize you and your guests for hours. Maintaining the health of your aquarium does take some work, but by choosing the proper filter for your aquarium, you are well on your way to creating a hospitable and beneficial environment for your fish so that they can mesmerize you for hours on end.

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March 21, 2011 at 12:00 PM Comments (0)

How To Winterize Your Pond

A common misconception many people have regarding winterizing your pond is that running water will somehow hurt your fish.  It’s important to keep in mind that fish are cold-blooded creatures and that they will adapt to whatever the water temperature is. In addition, running water freezes more slowly than still water, so you can run your waterfall well into winter as long as you take some precautions to make sure that your waterfall or filter outlet flow does not freeze and divert water out of the pond.

To help your fish survive during the winter, start introducing a vitamin and mineral supplement to their diet during the fall. This will help them to build up their immune systems and add the needed fat in order for them to make it through their hibernation cycles.

If the water temperature drops below 50 degrees, do not feed your fish. They go into a kind of hibernation and their bodies cannot absorb food at this time.

Many people think that a pond de-icer (heater) will help to protect their fish during the winter. A de-icer can help with the buildup of carbon dioxide under the surface of the ice that forms on the water.

A better option for winterizing your pond for your fish is to use an aerator/circulator decontaminator unit.  By using it all year round, you will greatly enhance the overall biological process by keeping algae at bay, plus you will continuously supply dissolved oxygen to the pond during the winter via the air bubbles that the decontaminator unit provides.

If you are using the EcoBio-Block line of products to help prevent ammonia build-up and to increase the presence of good bacteria that will keep the water clean and healthy for your fish, rest assured that the bacteria in the block will simply hibernate along with your fish until warmer weather when it will start producing again just when your pond is starting to need it.

Tropical plants will not make it through the winter if they are left in your pond. When the water temperature falls under 60 degrees Fahrenheit, they should be removed. Depending on the species of plant, you could keep them in your house as house plants or consider them as annuals and purchase new ones to fill your pond the following spring.

If you have an out-of-the pond biological filter, you can let it continue to run until there is a chance that the outlet water flow can freeze and divert water from the pond. If/when you shut it down, let the water drain via the siphon effect or via the drain plug.  Only clean the leaves and dead plant matter from it. If you have an in-the pond biological filter, remove it before winter begins. If you have a non-oil filled pump, you can leave it on during the winter so long as it is well under where the ice will form.

During the winter, you should check to make sure that everything is going well. If your pond has completely frozen over, NEVER break the ice by pounding on it. Keep in mind that the decontaminator unit is still providing oxygen and removing toxicants for your fish under the ice. To reopen the hole in the ice, either use a de-icer or pour hot water over a section of the ice until the hole reopens.

Preparing ahead of time to winterize your pond for your fish and plants can ensure that they will survive the winter and that the pond will be in optimal condition for them when they come out again in the spring.

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November 11, 2010 at 11:00 AM Comments (0)

Setting Up a Quarantine Tank for Saltwater Tropical Fish

Clownfish in a quarantine tank

If you have saltwater tropical fish, it is virtually essential that you have a quarantine tank for them. Why? This is because most saltwater tropical fish are mostly wild and are not used to captivity when they are caught. As a result, they are more susceptible to diseases than their freshwater counterparts. Therefore, a quarantine tank will be quite helpful for treating sick saltwater tropical fish, as just one diseased fish in an aquarium tank full of fish can wipe out the entire fish population in that tank.

In addition to a quarantine tank being more convenient for saltwater fish keepers to treat their diseased tropical fish, most saltwater fish keepers will also have invertebrates and live rock in their tanks that they will not want to cover with the harsh medicines that will be needed to treat their diseased tropical fish. Some harsh medicines can even wipe out all invertebrates in an aquarium tank, so it is especially vital to have a quarantine tank ready for your saltwater tropical fish when they contract a disease or infection.

It is relatively simple to set up a quarantine tank. A tank size of 10-20 gallons will be sufficient for most people, though if you have larger fish, you can turn a larger tank into a quarantine tank as well. The main items you will need for your quarantine tank are the following items:

  • Some type of filtration.
  • A heater.
  • A powerhead and/or airstone to increase surface agitation.
  • Aquarium test kits to test for nitrate, nitrite, ammonia, and pH levels.
  • A fish net, as you should use a different net for your quarantine tank than you do for your main tank.

You should first fill the quarantine tank with water from your main tank and then turn on your quarantine tank.

When you place newly acquired saltwater fish in a quarantine tank, you should monitor them closely for a period of two to three weeks. Monitor the water conditions with your test kits and see if there are any bacterial infections or parasites present.

If your newly acquired saltwater fish do contract something, youíll need to treat them with the appropriate medication and keep them in the quarantine tank for an additional two weeks to ensure that you have eradicated the infection or parasite. If no problems are present after those two weeks, then you can acclimate them to the main tank and introduce them to the other fish.

If your saltwater tropical fish develop an infection or disease while in the main tank, net them and place them into the quarantine tank. This is why it’s important to use water from your main tank in the quarantine tank, you don’t have to acclimate them to the quarantine tank. Diagnose the infection or disease, treat them accordingly, then hold the fish in the quarantine tank an extra week to ensure that the fish have been completely treated before introducing them back into the main tank.

To help keep your tanks clean and risk of infection low, use the EcoBio-Block line of products in your tanks. EcoBio-Blocks are available in different sizes to keep your home aquariums clean and healthy for your fish. Be careful not to put these blocks in your quarantine tank, however; as the beneficial bacteria in the Blocks may not survive any medication necessary for treating your fish.

It’s important for owners of saltwater tropical fish to have a ready supply of saltwater on hand in case of an emergency. You don’t want to have to mix up a batch of saltwater in the middle of an emergency. Additionally, freshly mixed saltwater can be quite toxic to many saltwater tropical fish, as well as be very difficult to get accurate readings of the water with your hydrometer. Therefore, you should always have a supply of extra saltwater on hand just in case.

As you can see, having saltwater tropical fish virtually necessitates having a quarantine tank for treating your fish when they contract a disease or infection. Failure to act in removing them from the fish population could wipe out your entire population. Additionally, the treatments used to treat these diseases and infections could have adverse effects on invertebrates and/or live rocks you have in your tank.  It’s relatively easy to create a quarantine tank to help treat your fish when they become ill.  Having an additional supply of saltwater on hand is also good to deal with emergencies when they occur. By following the information here, you can increase the chances that your saltwater tropical fish will live long, healthy lives.

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September 24, 2010 at 11:16 AM Comments (0)

Good Bacteria in Aquariums

fish_aquariumwebThose who are new to the aquarium hobby are often surprised to learn that in order for the water in their tank to stay sparkling clear and their fish to stay healthy, bacteria in the water is vital. It seems almost backwards to them, as knowing the necessity of keeping the water clean for the best results, it seems odd that bacteria is an essential part of aquarium care.

When it is explained that these are the good bacteria, and that these tiny little microorganisms can clean the water and improve their environment, understanding dawns. Usually, once folks understand the process, they are eager to incorporate these bacteria in their aquarium water.

Unfortunately, that takes some time if you go about it the natural way. The ideal situation for aquarium water is one that mimics earth’s natural method at its best. In order for the water to reach that perfect stage in nature, it must go through quite the process, always teetering on the perilous edge of being unbalanced by some adverse happening along the way.

We have it easier in the world of aquaria. These friendly bacteria are what help a newly set up aquarium to cycle. We simulate nature by adding several small community fish to this newly established tank in order to start the cycle.
If possible, we also try to add some water or filter medium from an already established tank to seed the beneficial bacteria which ensure a successful cycle. The waste matter of the community fish creates ammonia for the bacteria to eat, and your bacteria (seeds) are going to contribute to helping good bacteria to become established.

After six to eight weeks of partial water changes and water tests for ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates, most aquarists would agree that the tank has totally cycled. Cloudy water can be a problem during the cycling period and beyond, and it can take some real tweaking to get the water quality just the way you want it to be.

All that can seem as if it takes an eternity, to someone who wants to be able to just sit back and enjoy his or her new aquarium. Nowadays, there is a much easier way to bring these beneficial bacteria into the tanks of aquarists everywhere. The EcoBio-Block family of products gets the nod from those who are new to the hobby of aquariums as well as those who have many years of experience with keeping fish.
These phenomenal rocks, which house a colony of beneficial bacteria which multiply and disperse about every 30 minutes, are made out of volcanic stone, which is known to be quite rich in minerals. These minerals are as good for the fish as they are for the friendly bacteria that this stone is infused with.

Using one of the EcoBio products, whether they are the EcoBio-Stones, EcoBio-Pebbles, or EcoBio-Rock, is the key to having crystal clear aquarium water without all of the maintenance work involved. Those who have experienced the difference that this product has made in the quality of their aquarium water and in the health of their fish recommend it highly.

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April 9, 2010 at 1:22 PM Comments (0)

Overcrowded Aquarium – Consider Upgrading to Larger Tank

Avoid overcrowding and keep your fish healthy

Avoid overcrowding and keep your fish healthy

Being an aquarium owner is one of the most rewarding hobbies ever! There are so many different types of fish to choose from, and watching your fish with their striking colors swim about the tank is a pleasure you can enjoy every day.

Some aquarium owners are unaware of the need to prevent overcrowding in their fish tanks, and are unable to tell if their fish are ready for a larger tank.
A novice owner can commit this no-no easily. The fish that they purchased when first starting out in the aquarium hobby may have become too large for their original tank. Enthused about this new hobby, the newbie may have also added more fish than the size of the usual beginner 10-gallon tank can handle. No matter what the circumstances, it does not take long for an overcrowded tank to begin to show signs of trouble as the level of toxins in the water rise.

A high toxin load in your aquarium is definitely going to stress out your fish, and can even kill them if it is allowed to continue for too long. You can try to keep up with partial water changes, which can help the condition of the tank water, but that can be a lot of work.

The overcrowded aquarium requires much more oxygen than the aquarium that is properly stocked and well maintained. This means that the fish in a tank that is too small to house them properly are deprived of the oxygen they need.
If you are dealing with an overcrowded aquarium, then ammonia and nitrite levels should be monitored frequently.

Another aspect of overcrowding is the fact that any diseases or parasites your fish may have will affect every fish in the aquarium in a very short time. All fish have parasites and bacteria on the surface of their bodies. When fish are stressed, they are much more apt to fall victim to either or both.

It can be simple to take care of one or two fish that have developed some sort of fungus, or who are spotted with Ich. However, having a small aquarium full of sick fish is not a pleasant scenario. By the time you are able to get all of the fish out of the aquarium and into a safe place, well over half of them could be dead or dying.

You may think that a larger tank is out of your budget. Ask friends if they have or know of anyone with a spare aquarium in their garage. Watch the classified section of your daily newspaper for used tanks, or even better, look around the online classifieds for your area. You may be lucky enough to find the exact type and size of tank you need

Once you have located what you think would be a suitable tank for your fish, make sure that you have found the size that you need. Freshwater fish will generally need about a gallon of water for every inch. Saltwater fish need one square foot for every three inches, so do keep the proper figures in mind as you shop for a larger tank.

Your larger tank will be a lot of fun to accessorize, but why not make one of those accessories a highly functional one? Placing an EcoBio-Stone L in that new to you, larger aquarium will help to keep the water beautifully clear. This product also gets rid of any funky odors the tank water may have, and can really cut down on the frequency of water changes.

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March 9, 2010 at 11:05 AM Comments (0)