Aquarium and Pond Care with EcoBio-Block

By Robert Paul Hudson

Did you know there are ways to promote the growth of healthy nitrifying bacteria in the aquarium and things to avoid which will adversely affect bacteria?

There are many strains of the nitrifying bacteria species and each may have varying tolerances, but in general, the following information applies to all of them:

Temperature

Temperature plays a role in the growth rate of bacteria.

• 77-86° F (25-30° C)  is the temperature for optimum growth of nitrifying bacteria
• At 64° F (18° C) the growth rate is decreased by 50%
• At 46-50° F. Growth rate is decreased by 75%
• No activity will occur at 39° F (4° C)
• Nitrifying bacteria will die at 32° F (0° C).
• Nitrifying bacteria will die at 120° F (49° C)

In cold water systems, careful attention should be given to monitor the levels of nitrite.

pH

The optimum pH range for Nitrosomonas is between 7.8-8.0, and for Nitrobacter is between 7.3-7.5. Below these ranges growth is slowed down. All nitrification ceases at a pH of 6.0 or lower. Ammonia levels should be closely monitored at a pH of 6.5 or lower.

Dissolved Oxygen

Oxygen levels have a direct effect on nitrifying bacteria. At very low levels the bacteria basically become inactive.  The bacteria reach their highest level of nitrification when dissolved oxygen levels reach 80% saturation.

Micronutrients

Just like plant life, bacteria need nutrients to feed on for energy and growth. Many micronutrients are used by bacteria including phosphorus which plays an important role in the conversion of ATP to energy for cellular functions. Phosphorus is usually present in the form of phosphate in tap water and from decaying fish foods or other decaying organic material, but if your aquarium has no measurable level of phosphate it would be a good idea to introduce a small amount by way of phosphoric acid, mono-sodium phosphate or di-sodium phosphate.

Other micronutrients, (minerals) are normally found in ample levels in tap water. RO, deionized, or distilled water that is completely stripped of all minerals is inhibitory to nitrifying bacteria. It is important if using this type of water to replenish the water with mineral salts for the overall health of the aquatic system.

You can use products like the EcoBio-Block line, which contain special beneficial bacteria (bacillus subtilis natto) that are already packaged with the micronutrients they need to keep levels of good bacteria high and cloudy water and odor non-existent. These bacterium can survive from the strong acid of pH 3 to the strong alkali of pH 11, and are active in temperatures from 50° F to 149° F.

Nitrifying bacteria play an important role in keeping a healthy and balanced aquarium, but are also dependent on a balanced environment in order to function and grow- as all life is.

You’ve spent a lot of money and time picking out the right fish for your aquarium and you think you’ve got it just right. Then you start losing some valuable fish. How does this happen and what can you do to prevent this tragedy?

There can be a lot of reasons why your fish are dying. Generally, it happens when a fish tank is new. It pays to buy an aquarium water test kit to determine how much ammonia, nitrites and nitrates are in the aquarium, and how high or low the pH is. These are the four most important tests for your tank.

In the nitrogen cycle of the fish tank, an important biological cycle, the fish give off nitrogenous wastes when they eliminate and these products break down into ammonia, which is very toxic to most fishes. In aquariums, this nitrogen product can build up into levels that are harmful to your fish. When you measure the ammonia level, it should be negligible.

The nitrogen cycle, is the process of getting rid of ammonia using nitrifying bacteria that convert the ammonia to nitrite and then to nitrate, which is not as hazardous. The cycle goes from ammonia to nitrite to nitrate. These bacteria are present everywhere and establish themselves eventually in your fish tank as soon as the ammonia builds up. It is a slow process, however, and you can lose fish in the meantime.

One way of improving the nitrogen status of your aquarium is to purchase an EcoBio-Block Products that contains the nitrifying bacteria within the block. You rinse the block and soak it in chlorine free water over night before placing it in your tank. Normally, in a few weeks or so, you can have your ammonia levels drop followed by drops in nitrite levels. You can safely put your fish in then and expect that they will survive.

The other thing is to take a couple of hardy and cheap fish and put them in your tank. Don’t overfeed the fish. More food means that more ammonia will build up. For freshwater fish, try some zebra danios or some barbs. For saltwater tanks, use damselfish. Don’t use feeder fish for your tank as they can introduce unwanted diseases in your tank. The initial cheap fish you put into the tank get the nitrogen cycle going and you can then add more delicate and expensive fish to your tank.

Use your test kit to determine the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate level in your tank and use this as a guide for how healthy your tank is. It takes time for the bacteria to develop unless you are using a EcoBio-Stone to speed up the nitrification process.

Poor pH can also be a cause of a loss of fish. The pH is a measure of how acidic or how alkaline a fish tank is. Ideally, the pH should be around 7.0, which is “neutral”. However, fish can generally tolerate pH of 5.5 to 8.0. You can get a test strip to measure the level and if you need to change it, look at ways to change the pH slowly.

If your water contains buffers, you will not be able to change the pH very easily. Remember, too, that fish can tolerate a wide range of pH levels but do not tolerate sudden changes in pH.  Sometimes it’s better to leave the pH alone as long as your fish are thriving.

If you still think you need to adjust the pH, one way to lower it slowly is to add some driftwood to your fish tank or to the tank. A cleaned off seashell or coral skeleton will gradually increase the pH of your aquarium. The downside of both these solutions is that they will stain the color of the water brown or yellow for quite a while, but it will alter the pH in a safe way.

Maintain your tank well and you can have a healthy, happy fish population.

Suffice it to say that Old Tank Syndrome is the opposite of New Tank Syndrome. To refresh the memory, let us remember that New Tank Syndrome takes place when an eager newcomer to the aquarium hobby starts to lose fish at about the six-week anniversary of aquarium ownership.

This can happen due to poor water quality, especially elevated ammonia levels because of an unhealthy filtration system. It can also take place because the novice owner is still a bit clumsy at giving the aquarium and fish the proper sort of care.

Old Tank Syndrome has a telltale symptom, and that is a sense of complacency in a long time aquarium owner when it comes to the condition of his or her tank. All of the excitement of having this hobby has passed by this time, and the fish-lover could almost be said to take his aquarium for granted.

The tank is stable, the fish are well fed and in good health. There have been no changes in the aquarium for quite a while now. The fish are fed on schedule most of the time, and no new fish have been added to the aqua community. No water tests for ammonia or nitrites have been done, either. All those partial water changes that were done at the beginning of aquarium ownership have fallen by the wayside as well.

It is about now that the long-time aquarium owner begins to notice that his fish tank seems to be a bit “off”. He or she may decide to do a partial water change to try and rectify things. Alternately, the hobbyist discovers a dead fish, and decides to go and purchase a few new occupants for the aquarium. Either of these scenarios is going to upset the balance of the aquarium.

The present fish are used to the aquarium condition just the way it is. A partial water change could prove to be very stressful, and could even kill the fish. Every seasoned pet fish keeper has heard this tale of woe from a newbie, “We had just changed the water, and then all the fish started to die one by one.”

New fish will also upset the balance in the aquarium, but in a different way. They will create even more ammonia and nitrites, and this will upset the balance that the fish have slowly become used to. Either way, you stand a good chance of losing some fish.

Old tank syndrome can be avoided by maintaining the same schedule of water testing and frequent partial water changes that you did when your tank was brand new. Or, you can take advantage of one of the EcoBio-Block family of products, and spend the time you would have spent maintaining your aquarium admiring your fish! EcoBio-Block Products will keep the water quality in your tank healthy for your fish population as well as maintaining the water in a crystal clear condition.

Healthy aquarium with EcoBio-Block L

One of the first lessons a fishkeeping hobbyist learns is that preparing a good habitat for aquatic pets is all about breeding beneficial bacteria. The famous “New Tank Syndrome” or “Cycling” of a new aquarium setup basically describes the period when bacteria colonies are initially propagated in the aquatic habitat. In effect, the overall health of a fish tank and its inhabitants relies heavily on the steady and sustained growth and proliferation of bacteria.

Two types of beneficial bacteria are required to keep ideal water conditions in a fish tank. The first type is called “nitrosomonas,” which are aerobic bacteria that convert deadly ammonia (generated by fish waste and decaying food) into another toxic substance called nitrites. The second type is called “nitrobacter,” which converts the toxic nitrites into less harmful nitrates. Microbes in gravel in established tanks can process nitrates into nitrogen gas which then dissipates (which in large volumes will also stress the fish); can be absorbed by aquatic plants (and algae) as fertilizer; or can be removed from the tank through regular partial water changes.

In a new fish tank, ammonia must be present to start the nitrosomonas colonies, but the ammonia levels should be just enough to feed the bacteria because excesses will harm the fish. The same is true with the nitrobacter – they proliferate in the presence of nitrites but until there are enough colonies to process the nitrites, excesses will cause distress to the fishes. Therefore, the tank’s ability to sustain more fishes improves as the colonies of beneficial bacteria increase.

Because the speed of aquarium cycling depends on how quickly bacterial colonies grow, fishkeeping experts suggest several ways to rapidly proliferate bacteria. The most common method is to migrate bacterial colonies from disease-free established aquariums by moving gravel, décor, or filter media to the new tank.

If migrating established bacterial colonies from existing tanks is not feasible, there is always the “canned bacteria” option. Preserved nitrosomonas and nitrobacter bacteria can be purchased from reputable fish hobby vendors. Some providers claim that their bottled bacteria colonies can jumpstart the cycling process as well as revitalize a failing or overstocked aquarium.

Another bacteria-proliferation option is the EcoBio-Block Family Products. These porous volcanic stones are mineral-rich and imbedded with a type of beneficial bacteria called “bacillus subtilis natto” from Japan. These bacteria, which multiply every half hour, perform the nitrification process required for a stable fish tank, effectively degrading organic matter and making the tank clear and odor-free. Bacteria-rich EcoBio-Block products are used to speed up cycling and maintain a clear and healthy tank for years.

Undoubtedly, setting up a fish tank involves not just acquiring an aquarium setup but also growing and sustaining large colonies of beneficial bacteria to render the water habitable to aquatic pets. Whether the bacteria colonies are from a friend’s tank, the bottled variety, or the EcoBio-Block strain, as long as they are fed, aerated, and prolific, they will do their job to ensure the health and success of the fish community in their environment.
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Aquariums are wonderful additions to any home, but problems can arise from the fact that essential life functions within the aquarium are facilitated by electricity – namely, oxygen and temperature regulation. Strong winds, lightning, falling tree branches and floods can all cause unexpected power outages, and in small towns or rural areas even automobile accidents that involve power poles can plunge households into darkness as the only means of electricity has to be shut down. Here are a few tips on how to safeguard your beloved aquarium in the event of a power outage.

The most important thing to keep going in the aquarium is the oxygen exchange. Beneficial bacteria in the tank require a lot of oxygen, so once a filter and aerator stop working the dissolved oxygen depletes very quickly. Once oxygen is depleted the bacteria colonies begin dying off or becoming inactive, allowing ammonia levels to rise. Hardy strains of bacteria such as the bacillus subtilis natto strain used in EcoBio-Block will mostly become inactive, but return to actively breaking down ammonia as soon as proper oxygen levels are restored. This can happen within an hour or two of losing power, depending on stocking levels. Additionally, a lot of beneficial bacteria lives in filter media so if you have a canister filter or HOB filter that keeps the media out of the main body of water a large portion of the aquarium’s bacteria may be unavailable instantly.

This is where planning ahead can be a real lifesaver…and back saver! If your power goes out and you don’t have a generator, having all your aquarium equipment plugged into an uninterrupted power supply is possibly one of the best ways to keep going for short-term outages. Battery-powered aerators are available online and in many pet stores as well and can be a great asset during outages or when traveling with fish. If none of these are available, you can manually facilitate oxygen exchange by filling a pitcher from the tank (here’s where the back comes in) and dumping the water back in, then repeating at regular intervals until power comes back.

Now for temperature control; in cold weather, a watertight container filled with boiling water (provided you have a gas range or access to a wood-burning stove) makes a great heater that will keep fish near it warm. In hot weather, a water-tight container or two or three ziplock baggies inside each other (to prevent leaks) with ice cubes in it will keep water near it cool enough for the fish.

If the power is out for extended periods of time you may have to watch the water parameters closely when the aquarium is functioning again as a lot of beneficial bacteria can die from oxygen deprivation, causing ammonia spikes. To control these you’ll either need to do water changes every day to keep ammonia levels down until the bacteria catches up again, or you can add some new bacteria from products such as EcoBio-Block or BioSpira. BioSpira is a bottled bacteria culture that works well, but has to be refrigerated and has a limited shelf life so it may not be the best for emergency preparation. EcoBio-Block is a water maintenance product that lasts about 1 1/2-2 years in the aquarium; this product introduces and promotes the growth of beneficial bacteria as well as keeps the water parameters healthy, which can reduce fish stress in an emergency. EcoBio-Block is a very valuable maintenance product that will keep the aquarium water healthy every day in addition to emergency uses, but it can take up to a couple of weeks to start working initially so it should already be in place to be effective in an emergency.

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