Aquarium and Pond Care with EcoBio-Block

Stocking a fish tank may seem like an easy enough task – you simply go to the pet store, pick out the fish you like and bring them home. If this is the procedure you follow when stocking your tank, however, you should not be surprised if you encounter problems down the line. There are a variety of factors that should play into your decision regarding not only what type of fish you put in your tank, but the number of fish as well. If you overstock your tank, it could increase the biological load past the point that your beneficial bacteria can handle. When this happens, the water quality in your tank could drop, your ammonia levels could skyrocket and all of those new fish you just brought home may end up dying. To prevent this from happening, do your homework to be sure you stock your tank properly the first time you do it.

Important Factors to Consider

When deciding how many fish to keep in your tank, the number one factor to consider is of course, tank size. It should go without saying that large fish tanks are capable of accommodating a greater quantity of fish than smaller tanks, but this is not the only factor to consider. You must also think about the size of the fish you intend to stock your tank with. Beginning aquarium hobbyists are often encouraged to follow the “one inch of fish per gallon” rule. This rule is by no means perfect, but it is a good place to start. To follow this rule, take the full length of each fish at maturity and factor it into the gallon capacity of your tank. If you have a 30-gallon tank, for example, you could safely house fifteen fish that grow to a maximum of 2 inches in length. As it has been mentioned, this rule is not perfect. It does not account for the fact that some fish are more full-bodied than others and thus take up more space, nor does it account for the fact that some fish produce more waste than other species.

Tips for Stocking Your Tank

In order to properly stock your tank, it is wise to strive for a balance in the number and type of fish you purchase. Do not fill your tank with full-bodied fish like cichlids – rather, try to create a community tank using several different species. This may require you to purchase smaller numbers of fish but it will lead to greater harmony in your tank in the long run. You should also keep in mind that many tropical fish are schooling species and should be kept with no fewer than three of their own kind. If you plan to keep multiple species in your tank, be sure you do not overstock your tank just to meet the schooling needs of certain species. It is better to under-stock your tank at first and then to slowly add more fish, giving your tank and your current set of fish, time to acclimate.

Balance is the key to keeping an aquarium clean and healthy – a tank that is properly stocked is more likely to be in balance than an overstocked tank. In order to help your tank achieve that balance, consider adding an EcoBio-Stone to give your tank an extra boost in handling the biological load of your tank. EcoBio-Stones are made from porous volcanic rock and cement that has been infused with beneficial bacteria. Once introduced into your tank, these bacteria will multiply and immediately begin working to break down waste products and toxins in your tank, making it a cleaner and healthier environment for your fish. Over time, you will learn how many fish your tank can handle and the beneficial bacteria in your tank will adjust to any additions you make to keep it running smoothly.

Ammonia testing is essential for the fishkeeping hobby. Always have an ammonia testing kit on hand and be sure to test for ammonia levels about once a month.

Ammonia is a naturally-occurring chemical compound that can be found in every freshwater tank. You may not realize it, but as your fish eat and digest they may be releasing ammonia through their gills. This, on top of the natural production of ammonia that occurs during the breakdown of organic waste, can lead to high ammonia levels in your tank. Even though ammonia is a natural substance, it is still extremely dangerous for your fish. If the ammonia levels in your tank begin to approach 1ppm, your fish may suffer from ammonia poisoning and could die as a result. In order to keep your fish healthy and your tank water fresh and clean, it is wise to not only learn how ammonia gets into your tank in the first place, but how to get rid of it as well.

The Dangers of Ammonia

Many aquarium hobbyists do not know that, in addition to chlorine, their tap water may also contain ammonia. Chloramine is a type of water-purifying agent that is often used to treat tap water – it is formed by binding chlorine to ammonia. Many water conditioners designed to remove chlorine from tap water also result in the release of bonded ammonia atoms into tank water. Another possibility, if you find that the ammonia levels in your tank are getting out of control, is that you may not have a sufficient colony of beneficial bacteria in your tank. These bacteria are responsible for breaking down organic wastes and for converting ammonia and nitrites into less harmful substances called nitrates. If you do not have an adequate quantity of these bacteria in your tank, your ammonia levels could quickly get out of control. If the ammonia levels in your tank get too high your fish could begin to exhibit symptoms of ammonia poisoning which may include hemorrhaging in the gills, difficulty breathing, red streaking on the body and loss of appetite.

Preventing Ammonia Build-up

Because many regions are beginning to treat their tap water with chloramine rather than chlorine alone, it is wise to look for a water conditioner that removes both chlorine and ammonia. The purpose of a water conditioner is to remove toxic chemicals from tap water – if you use a conditioner that fails to treat one of the most dangerous chemicals for fish you will not be doing yourself or your fish any favors. Perhaps the easiest way to control ammonia build-up in your tank is to monitor the accumulation of organic waste. Organic waste includes decaying plant matter, dead fish, uneaten fish food and feces. Because ammonia is produced during the decomposition of these products, the more organic waste you have in your tank, the more ammonia will be produced when it is breaking down.

To keep the level of organic waste, and thus the level of ammonia, in your tank under control there are several things you can do. Avoid overfeeding your fish – only feed your fish as much as they can eat within one to three minutes and limit your feedings to twice a day. Always use a gravel vacuum to remove accumulated waste from the substrate of your tank when performing water changes and carefully treat your tap water to remove both chlorine and ammonia before refilling your tank. To ensure that you have a sufficiently large colony of beneficial bacteria in your tank to help with the conversion of ammonia, try adding an EcoBio-Stone to your tank. These stones are made from porous volcanic cement that has been infused with live beneficial bacteria along with the nutrients they need to thrive. EcoBio-Stones are available in several shapes and sizes so it is easy to find one that will match the décor in your tank. Once you add the stone to your tank, the bacteria will multiply rapidly, taking over maintenance of the nitrogen cycle and working to keep your tank clean and your ammonia levels under control.

Filtration is the key to keeping your aquarium a clean and healthy environment for your fish. When it comes to choosing a filter, however, it is easy to become overwhelmed by the sheer volume of options available. Before selecting a filter for your aquarium you need to understand the basics of aquarium filtration which includes understanding the three types of filtration. Different types of filters offer different types of filtration and, unless you understand the basics, you will not be equipped to select the right piece of equipment for your tank.

Mechanical Filtration

The most basic, and perhaps the most important, type of aquarium filtration is mechanical filtration. Mechanical filtration simply involves the physical removal of solid waste products from tank water. Generally, solid waste takes the shape of uneaten fish food, decaying plant matter and organic waste like feces. Aquarium filters that offer mechanical filtration usually operate by sucking the aquarium water up through an intake tube. The water is then filtered through some kind of sponge and released back into the aquarium. As the water passes through the sponge, solid waste products become lodged in the pores and are thus removed from the aquarium water. This type of filtration is essential in the home aquarium because, as solid waste accumulates along the bottom of the tank, it breaks down in a process that produces ammonia. Ammonia is a substance toxic to fish and if the ammonia levels in your tank become too high, your fish could become stressed, fall ill or even die.

Chemical Filtration

Chemical filtration is often combined with mechanical filtration as a means of removing dissolved wastes in addition to solid wastes from aquarium water. This type of filtration helps to remove a variety of wastes including proteins, hormones and metabolic waste as well as organic acids and compounds. As the filter takes tank water up through the intake tube, it passes through the sponge along with some type of filter media which removes the dissolved wastes. The most common type of filter media is activated carbon. Most modern filters which incorporate chemical filtration utilize filter cartridges that combine the mechanical filtration of a sponge with the chemical filtration of activated carbon. In order to maximize the effectiveness of these filters, the filter cartridge must be replaced every three to four weeks.

Biological Filtration

The third type of filtration, biological filtration, does not necessarily require any special equipment. Biological filtration is a term used to describe the process by which nitrifying bacteria break down wastes in your tank, converting harmful toxins like ammonia into less harmful nitrates. While mechanical filters work to remove solid wastes, there is likely to still be some build-up in your substrate. As these substances decompose, ammonia is produced. The nitrifying bacteria in your tank work to convert ammonia into nitrites then into nitrates, a process called the Nitrogen Cycle. While some filters incorporate a Bio-wheel designed to provide beneficial bacteria a place to grow, the most common places these bacteria grow is in tank substrate and on in-tank surfaces.

Tips for Aquarium Filtration

Regardless what type of filter you choose for your aquarium, you will be required to perform some basic maintenance tasks. It is wise to rinse your filter once in a while to remove any build-up of slime algae. It is also necessary to replace your filter media every three to four weeks to ensure that your filter will keep your aquarium water clean. In addition to these simple maintenance tasks, you can increase the effectiveness of your aquarium filter by adding an EcoBio-Stone to your tank. EcoBio-Block products are composed of porous volcanic sand and infused with beneficial bacteria. Once introduced into your tank, these bacteria multiply to form a colony of nitrifying bacteria which will help your filter to convert harmful toxins like ammonia into less harmful nitrates. EcoBio-Stones are easy to use and they are a great way to help keep your aquarium water clean and clear.

By Robert Paul Hudson

Did you know there are ways to promote the growth of healthy nitrifying bacteria in the aquarium and things to avoid which will adversely affect bacteria?

There are many strains of the nitrifying bacteria species and each may have varying tolerances, but in general, the following information applies to all of them:

Temperature

Temperature plays a role in the growth rate of bacteria.

• 77-86° F (25-30° C)  is the temperature for optimum growth of nitrifying bacteria
• At 64° F (18° C) the growth rate is decreased by 50%
• At 46-50° F. Growth rate is decreased by 75%
• No activity will occur at 39° F (4° C)
• Nitrifying bacteria will die at 32° F (0° C).
• Nitrifying bacteria will die at 120° F (49° C)

In cold water systems, careful attention should be given to monitor the levels of nitrite.

pH

The optimum pH range for Nitrosomonas is between 7.8-8.0, and for Nitrobacter is between 7.3-7.5. Below these ranges growth is slowed down. All nitrification ceases at a pH of 6.0 or lower. Ammonia levels should be closely monitored at a pH of 6.5 or lower.

Dissolved Oxygen

Oxygen levels have a direct effect on nitrifying bacteria. At very low levels the bacteria basically become inactive.  The bacteria reach their highest level of nitrification when dissolved oxygen levels reach 80% saturation.

Micronutrients

Just like plant life, bacteria need nutrients to feed on for energy and growth. Many micronutrients are used by bacteria including phosphorus which plays an important role in the conversion of ATP to energy for cellular functions. Phosphorus is usually present in the form of phosphate in tap water and from decaying fish foods or other decaying organic material, but if your aquarium has no measurable level of phosphate it would be a good idea to introduce a small amount by way of phosphoric acid, mono-sodium phosphate or di-sodium phosphate.

Other micronutrients, (minerals) are normally found in ample levels in tap water. RO, deionized, or distilled water that is completely stripped of all minerals is inhibitory to nitrifying bacteria. It is important if using this type of water to replenish the water with mineral salts for the overall health of the aquatic system.

You can use products like the EcoBio-Block line, which contain special beneficial bacteria (bacillus subtilis natto) that are already packaged with the micronutrients they need to keep levels of good bacteria high and cloudy water and odor non-existent. These bacterium can survive from the strong acid of pH 3 to the strong alkali of pH 11, and are active in temperatures from 50° F to 149° F.

Nitrifying bacteria play an important role in keeping a healthy and balanced aquarium, but are also dependent on a balanced environment in order to function and grow- as all life is.

You’ve spent a lot of money and time picking out the right fish for your aquarium and you think you’ve got it just right. Then you start losing some valuable fish. How does this happen and what can you do to prevent this tragedy?

There can be a lot of reasons why your fish are dying. Generally, it happens when a fish tank is new. It pays to buy an aquarium water test kit to determine how much ammonia, nitrites and nitrates are in the aquarium, and how high or low the pH is. These are the four most important tests for your tank.

In the nitrogen cycle of the fish tank, an important biological cycle, the fish give off nitrogenous wastes when they eliminate and these products break down into ammonia, which is very toxic to most fishes. In aquariums, this nitrogen product can build up into levels that are harmful to your fish. When you measure the ammonia level, it should be negligible.

The nitrogen cycle, is the process of getting rid of ammonia using nitrifying bacteria that convert the ammonia to nitrite and then to nitrate, which is not as hazardous. The cycle goes from ammonia to nitrite to nitrate. These bacteria are present everywhere and establish themselves eventually in your fish tank as soon as the ammonia builds up. It is a slow process, however, and you can lose fish in the meantime.

One way of improving the nitrogen status of your aquarium is to purchase an EcoBio-Block Products that contains the nitrifying bacteria within the block. You rinse the block and soak it in chlorine free water over night before placing it in your tank. Normally, in a few weeks or so, you can have your ammonia levels drop followed by drops in nitrite levels. You can safely put your fish in then and expect that they will survive.

The other thing is to take a couple of hardy and cheap fish and put them in your tank. Don’t overfeed the fish. More food means that more ammonia will build up. For freshwater fish, try some zebra danios or some barbs. For saltwater tanks, use damselfish. Don’t use feeder fish for your tank as they can introduce unwanted diseases in your tank. The initial cheap fish you put into the tank get the nitrogen cycle going and you can then add more delicate and expensive fish to your tank.

Use your test kit to determine the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate level in your tank and use this as a guide for how healthy your tank is. It takes time for the bacteria to develop unless you are using a EcoBio-Stone to speed up the nitrification process.

Poor pH can also be a cause of a loss of fish. The pH is a measure of how acidic or how alkaline a fish tank is. Ideally, the pH should be around 7.0, which is “neutral”. However, fish can generally tolerate pH of 5.5 to 8.0. You can get a test strip to measure the level and if you need to change it, look at ways to change the pH slowly.

If your water contains buffers, you will not be able to change the pH very easily. Remember, too, that fish can tolerate a wide range of pH levels but do not tolerate sudden changes in pH.  Sometimes it’s better to leave the pH alone as long as your fish are thriving.

If you still think you need to adjust the pH, one way to lower it slowly is to add some driftwood to your fish tank or to the tank. A cleaned off seashell or coral skeleton will gradually increase the pH of your aquarium. The downside of both these solutions is that they will stain the color of the water brown or yellow for quite a while, but it will alter the pH in a safe way.

Maintain your tank well and you can have a healthy, happy fish population.