Why Water Changes are Necessary

Like all living creatures, aquarium fish produce waste and this waste typically sinks to the bottom of the tank where it accumulates with other forms of organic debris like decomposing plant matter and uneaten fish food. Over time, this debris begins to break down and produces ammonia, a substance toxic to fish. Though the beneficial bacteria in an aquarium help to convert ammonia into less harmful substances, these bacteria can only do so much. Water changes are necessary to keep toxins in the tank under control – if you never performed a water change, the chemicals would simply build up in the tank water, making it unsuitable for aquarium fish. Water changes are also needed to replace the water lost through evaporation.

Proper Water Changing Procedure

gravel vacuuming

Though the size and frequency of necessary aquarium water changes may vary slightly according to the species of fish in the tank, most tanks require a weekly water change of 10% to 15% of the tank volume. These regular water changes should be accompanied by a larger 25% water change once a month. To perform a water change most effectively, use a gravel vacuum to siphon the substrate in your tank – this method will remove built-up detritus from the bottom of your tank along with the dirty tank water. If you were to simply scoop out a few gallons of water from the top of the tank you might succeed in diluting some of the toxins present in the water but the build-up in the substrate of the tank would continue to produce ammonia which would eventually lead to a decline in water quality.

Once you have removed the desired amount of water from the tank, the next step is to replace it with clean water. For freshwater tanks, regular tap water can be used as long as it has been dechlorinated. Aquarium hobbyists use a variety of methods to remove chlorine from tap water but the easiest and most effective method is to use a liquid water conditioner. Water conditioners work instantly to remove chlorine and chloramine from tap water, thus making it safe for aquarium fish. If you have a saltwater tank, your water changes may not be so quick or easy. You must mix the saltwater at least 24 hours before you perform the water change and it is best to add the water to the tank through a sump system rather than pouring it directly into the tank.

Tips for Water Changes

To make your water changes easier, select a gravel vacuum proportional to the size of your tank. If you have a small tank, a simple tube-shaped vacuum should be sufficient. For larger tanks, however, gravel vacuums that have wider heads are helpful. Though you cannot get away without ever performing a water change if you want your tank to stay clean and healthy, there are a few things you can do to reduce the frequency of necessary water changes. Adding an EcoBio-Stone to your tank is an easy way to keep your tank water fresh and clean and reducing maintenance needs. EcoBio-Stones are made from natural zeorite and special cement, and they can be added directly to the tank where the beneficial bacteria with which the stone is infused will immediately get to work. These bacteria will establish a colony in your tank, working to maintain the nitrogen cycle so the water in your tank stays clean and the water quality remains high. If you can maintain high water quality in your tank, you will find that you need to perform water changes less often.

Fish to Avoid in Planted Tanks

Silver dollar fish are one of the species most well-known for eating aquarium plants. Though many fish are likely to pick at algae growths or bits of sunken fish food on the leaves of aquarium plants, silver dollar fish will actually consume the plants themselves. These fish are voracious eaters when it comes to vegetable matter and they can work their way through an entire planted tank in just a few days. Some species of cichlid have also been known to eat aquarium plants, but these fish are more likely to dig in the substrate thus uprooting aquarium plants. While being temporarily uprooted may not kill the plants in your tank, it can inhibit their growth. Gouramis have also been known to engage in digging behavior which can affect the health and growth of live plants in an aquarium.

Recommended Species of Fish

Planted tank

When it comes to selecting the fish for your planted tank you cannot go wrong with most species of community fish. Community species of fish are peaceful not only toward other fish, but they do not tend to disturb aquarium plants or other tank decorations either. Some of the best small species of fish for planted tanks include livebearers, tetras, barbs and corydoras catfish. If you prefer slightly larger fish, dwarf gouramis and discus fish are recommended for planted tanks. To be sure that your plants are safe, it is wise to do some basic research on the species of fish you intend to purchase before you bring them home – check to be sure the conditions in your tank are right for that particular species and determine whether they are likely to eat your aquarium plants.

Tips for Maintaining Planted Tanks

To prevent your fish from turning to your aquarium plants for food, provide them with plenty of fresh vegetables. Fish enjoy blanched vegetables like peas, broccoli, spinach and zucchini and all of these foods are very high in nutrient content. Another way to keep your aquarium plants healthy and thriving is to introduce an EcoBio-Planter into your tank. EcoBio-Planters are made from natural zeolite and infused with beneficial bacteria. Once these bacteria form a colony in your tank they will begin breaking down built-up wastes and will help to maintain the nitrogen cycle, thus keeping the water in your tank clean and clear. EcoBio-Planters are conveniently shaped to accommodate small rooted plants and they are a great way to decorate your tank while still keeping up a natural appearance.

Purpose of Aquarium Lighting

The difference between your aquarium looking dull and lifeless or vibrant and colorful can sometimes be achieved through a simple change like installing a high quality lighting system. Aquarium lighting serves to illuminate your tank as well as your tank inhabitants, making them stand out and enhancing their natural colors. While the aesthetic function of aquarium lighting is not to be overlooked, aquarium lighting serves a practical purpose as well. Photosynthetic organisms like plants require light as an energy source in order to grow and function. Without proper lighting, your tank could not only look dull but your plants and other tank inhabitants could be negatively affected.

Types of Lighting

The most basic type of aquarium lighting is the standard fluorescent bulb. These lights are easy to use and come in a variety of sizes suitable for virtually any tank. One step up from the standard fluorescent bulb is the compact fluorescent. These bulbs are smaller and more powerful than standard fluorescent bulbs but they are still energy efficient and affordable. If compact fluorescent lights are not powerful enough, consider a T-5 HO or VHO lighting system. Both of these systems utilize fluorescent bulbs and both produce light of a much higher intensity than standard fluorescent bulbs.

T-5 HO, or T-5 High Output, bulbs are typically about 5/8” in diameter and are highly recommended for planted tanks. VHO, or Very High Output, lighting produces light up to three times more intense than standard fluorescent bulbs and they are available in a wide range of sizes. The main difference between these bulbs is that VHO bulbs run very hot and may require a chiller or auxiliary fan while T-5 HO lights do not. The most advanced type of aquarium lighting available is metal halide lighting. These bulbs produce wide-spectrum light and come in sizes up to 1000 watts. One more type of lighting that is still a fairly recent addition to the aquarium hobby is LED, or Light Emitting Diode, lighting. This type of lighting utilizes miniature bulbs that put out light from the blue and white end of the spectrum which creates a shimmering effect in the aquarium. Many LED lighting systems also incorporate lunar lighting, a type of lighting designed to mimic natural moonlight ideal for nocturnal species of fish and invertebrates.

Tips for Aquarium Lighting

When selecting an aquarium lighting system for your tank you need to choose not only the right type of lighting but the right wattage as well. Tanks housing fish only require no more than 1 or 2 watts of light per gallon while planted tanks need between 2 and 5 watts per gallon. To find out how many watts per gallon any given bulb will provide, simply divide the total wattage by the tank volume. You should also keep in mind that some lighting systems are better for planted tanks than others. Most fluorescent bulbs – including compact fluorescents, T-5 HO and VHO bulbs – are sufficient for planted tanks. If you have a very large or deep tank, however, or a densely planted tank, a metal halide lighting system may be the best choice for you.

While aquarium lighting is very important, it is only one aspect of maintaining a healthy aquarium. Keeping the water quality in your tank high and performing regular water changes are also necessary to keep your tank running smoothly. In order to make your job easier, consider installing an EcoBio-Stone in your aquarium. EcoBio-Stones are made from porous volcanic cement that has been infused with beneficial bacteria. Once released in your tank, these bacteria will work to maintain the nitrogen cycle, helping to keep your tank water clean and clear. These bacteria will also help to keep the phosphate levels in your tank stable by breaking down accumulated waste. If the phosphate levels in your tank spike and you are using a high-intensity lighting system, you could experience a sudden increase in algae growth which could affect your water quality.

Basics of Breeding Aquarium Fish

pregnant guppy

The first thing you need to know about breeding aquarium fish is that they can be divided into two categories based on the type of breeder they are – livebearer or egg layer. Livebearers undergo internal fertilization and give birth to live fry. Egg layers, on the other hand, may spawn via either internal or external fertilization and the young are born in eggs. If your fish are egg layers, you may need to delve a little deeper to determine which type of egg layer the species is. Egg laying species of fish may be egg scatterers – fish that scatter their eggs among fine-leaved plants – or they could be egg depositors which deposit their eggs on flat rocks or hide them in caves. Some species build nests for their eggs or actually take the eggs into their mouths where they will be protected until hatching.

Breeding Tank Requirements

While each species of fish may have certain requirements for breeding tanks, the general principles remain the same for most species. The breeding tank does not need to be large – a 15- or 20- gallon tank should be sufficient. In order to facilitate easy cleaning, keep the tank bottom bare with the exception of fine-leaved plants for egg scatterers and broad-leaved plants or flat rocks for egg depositors. Outfit the tank with an aquarium heater to help maintain a stable water temperature and install a sponge filter in one corner of the tank. A sponge filter will provide the necessary mechanical filtration and will provide a place for beneficial bacteria to grow while producing a current gentle enough that eggs and newly hatched fry will not be put at risk. Once you have the basic setup for your breeding tank completed you can make adjustments based on the specific requirements of the species.

Spawning Aquarium Fish

Before introducing your fish into the breeding tank it is wise to condition the breeding pair on healthy live foods for at least a week. Once you introduce the fish, keep a close watch on them to be sure they get along. Some fish will spawn readily upon being introduced into the breeding tank while others may require several hours or even days to breed. During this time, monitor your fish to be sure the male does not overly antagonize the female. After spawning has occurred you may want to remove the parent fish from the tank so they do not eat their eggs. Some species exhibit parental care behaviors, however, in guarding and feeding their young so do some research beforehand to determine whether your fish will do so.

Additional Tips and Considerations

As is true of any aquarium, maintaining high water quality in the breeding tank is extremely important. If the water quality in the tank is poor, your breeding pair may not be inclined to spawn. If spawning does occur, poor water quality could lead to an increased risk of the eggs succumbing to fungus. To keep the water in your breeding tank clean and clear, consider adding a mesh bag full of EcoBio-Pebbles to the aquarium. EcoBio-Pebbles are made from porous volcanic rock and are infused with beneficial bacteria and essential nutrients. After the bacteria have been introduced into your breeding tank they will multiply rapidly to form a colony that will help establish and maintain the nitrogen cycle, keeping your tank water pure and healthy. By keeping the EcoBio-Pebbles in a mesh bag you can keep the bottom of your breeding tank bare for easy cleaning while still benefiting from the water clarifying quality of the pebbles themselves.

How to Spot Healthy Fish

Local pet store's aquarium section

When you first set foot into your local pet store, before you even look at the fish they have available, take a look at the facilities. Do the stock tanks look clean or are they overgrown with algae? Do the tanks appear to be well maintained or are the water levels low due to evaporation? If the facilities in which the fish are kept do not appear to be clean, the chances of those fish being healthy are greatly diminished. If, however, the store itself is clean and the tanks are well-maintained you can move on to observing and examining the fish themselves.

Locate the tank housing the type of fish you are interested in purchasing. Observe the fish for a few minutes, looking for healthy activity and coloration. Healthy fish will be active and will not have any difficulty swimming – fish that appear lethargic or float near the top or bottom of the tank are likely affected by disease. The fish themselves should not have any visible deformities, the fins should be whole and there should be no patches of redness or discoloration on the fins, gills or scales. The eyes of healthy aquarium fish will be clear and, if you are able to observe the fish being fed, they should display an eagerness to eat.

Before Introducing New Fish

After selecting and purchasing your fish from the pet store there is one more thing you need to do before introducing them into your tank. Many aquarium hobbyists recommend quarantining all new fish for a minimum of two weeks before adding them to the main tank. Even if you have taken the time to observe and examine the fish before buying them, they could still be carriers of disease. Quarantining new fish is a simple and effective way to lessen the chances of your tank becoming exposed to disease. Keep your new fish in a quarantine tank for at least two weeks and, during that time, observe them for signs of illness. If, after the two weeks are up, the fish still appear to be healthy you can safely add them to your main tank.

Tips for Keeping Fish Healthy

Keeping your aquarium fish healthy does not need to be a complicated matter. If you are able to keep the water quality in your tank high and feed your fish a healthy, varied diet they are likely to thrive. To boost the health of your aquarium, and thus your fish, consider adding an EcoBio-Planter to your tank. EcoBio-Planters are made from porous volcanic cement and are conveniently shaped to accommodate a small live aquarium plant. In addition to providing a place for live plants to grow, EcoBio-Planters are also infused with beneficial bacteria that will multiply to establish a colony once added to your tank. These bacteria will help to maintain the nitrogen cycle in your tank, breaking down wastes and removing harmful toxins to keep your tank water clean and clear. In conjunction with the aforementioned precautions, an EcoBio-Planter can help keep the fish in your tank healthy by keeping the water quality in your tank high.

Measuring pH with a Meter

Water chemistry is a term used to describe the chemical and physical characteristics of tank water which can be measured using aquarium water test kits. Test kits are typically inexpensive and easy to use, making them an excellent tool for in-home use by aquarium hobbyists. These tests will help you to monitor the basic components of water chemistry – pH, water hardness and chemical content. While many species of freshwater fish are tolerant of a variety of tank conditions, it is always a good idea to keep an eye on the water chemistry in your tank. If the pH spikes or the water becomes too hard, your fish could become stressed and, as a result, could fall ill or even die. By learning the basics of water chemistry you can prevent such a disaster from happening in your tank.

Main Components of Water Chemistry

Perhaps the most important component of water chemistry is pH. PH is a measure of how acidic or alkaline the water in your tank is and it is measured on a scale from 0 to 14. A pH of 7.0 is considered neutral while anything above is alkaline and anything below is acidic. The recommended pH for a fish tank varies depending on the species of fish and the natural environment from which they come. Water hardness, or general hardness, is a measure of the concentration of dissolved ions in tank water. This hardness is measured in degrees – soft water typically measures between 0° and 3.36° degrees of general hardness (°GH) and hard water is between 6.78° and 10.08° GH. Another important aspect of water chemistry is buffering capacity – the ability of tank water to maintain a stable pH. When acids or bases are added to the tank, the buffering capacity of the water is what keeps the pH from spiking or dropping as a result of these additions. All aquariums are likely to contain trace amounts of chemicals and toxins such as ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Keeping an eye on the chemical levels in your tank is a good way to prevent ammonia poisoning and toxicity.

Testing Water Quality

Basic aquarium water test kits are available online and in pet stores, usually for $20 or less. These kits are easy to use and generally work in one of two ways. Some kits include test strips that you simply dip into a cup of tank water while others involve collecting individual water samples and adding drops of test solution. Once you have taken the samples, all you need to do is compare the color of the sample to the color chart included with the test kit in order to determine the measurement of whatever it is you are testing for. It is wise to perform water tests on a weekly basis and you should record the measurements in a journal in order to keep track of any changes.

Tips for Maintaining High Water Quality

The easiest and most effective way to keep the water quality in your tank high is to perform weekly 10% to 20% water changes. These water changes will help to control the waste build-up in your tank and will also ensure that your water chemistry stays stable. Another simple way to keep the water in your tank clean and the water chemistry stable is to introduce an EcoBio-Stone. These stones are made from porous volcanic cement and are infused with unique beneficial bacteria. Once introduced into the tank, these bacteria will multiply to form a colony of nitrifying bacteria which will help to maintain the nitrogen cycle. Placing the EcoBio-Stone will greatly reduce your maintenance needs – the bacteria will do most of the work in helping to keep your tank water clear and the water quality high.

Bacterial Diseases

Goldfish with Popeye

Poor water quality is the most common cause of bacterial infections and fish that are already stressed due to poor tank conditions or prior injury have an increased susceptibility to bacterial diseases. Bacterial infections may be either external or internal but external infections are the most common. External bacterial infections often produce symptoms like ragged or rotting fins, lethargy, reddening of the skin and ulcers. Internal infections may result in hemorrhaging and fluid build-up. Some of the most common bacterial infections include fin rot, dropsy, tuberculosis and red pest. Salt baths are a common treatment for bacterial infections, though medications such as potassium permanganate and chloramine-T are also effective.

Fungal Diseases

Fungal diseases are some of the most common among freshwater fish and examples of fungal diseases include cotton mouth, egg fungus and gill rot. Because fungal spores are already present in most aquariums, it only takes a decline in water quality for the disease to spread. Fish that are already stressed or injured are much more likely to contract fungal infections. Common symptoms of fungal diseases include white cottony growths, excessive mucus production and difficulty breathing or eating. Fungal infections are most often treated with antifungal agents such as phenoxyethanol and Malachite Green, though salt baths are also known to be effective.

Parasite Diseases

Parasite infections are caused by microscopic organisms which enter the bodies of fish and feed off of them, often killing the fish in the process. Common parasite infections include Ich, Hexamita, Chilodonella and Velvet. These diseases often produce symptoms such as ulcers, visible cysts or spots, loss of appetite and rubbing against tank objects. Increasing tank temperature can sometimes help to speed up the life cycle of the parasite but more common treatments include potassium permanganate, formalin and acriflavine.

Viral Diseases

Viral infections are some of the most difficult to diagnose and to treat because they are largely internal and cannot be treated directly. The most recognizable symptom of viral disease is wart-like growths, though red streaks or bruises on the skin and fins are also common. Some viral diseases may result in bloating, hemorrhaging, anorexia and lethargy. Fish pox, Lymphocystis and viral hemorrhagic septicemia are some of the most common viral infections. Most viral infections have no cure and even if the infected fish survives it may be a lifelong carrier of the disease.

Tips for Keeping Fish Healthy

You already know that keeping your fish tank clean is the key to keeping your fish healthy. What you may not realize, however, is that something as simple as adding an EcoBio-Stone to your tank can make a big difference in maintaining high water quality. EcoBio-Stones are made from porous volcanic cement and infused with beneficial bacteria. When the stone is immersed in water, the beneficial bacteria multiply to form a colony in your tank that will help maintain the nitrogen cycle and clarify the water. When combined with routine water changes and adequate filtration, an EcoBio-Stone can help to keep your aquarium clean and clear which will lower the chances of your fish contracting a disease.

Small Species of Fish

Neon Tetras

Many of the smaller species of freshwater fish you are likely to see in pet stores are hardy and tolerant of varying water conditions. Some of the most popular small species for beginning aquarists include neon tetras, danios, barbs and livebearers such as guppies, mollies and swordtails. Do not think that just because a species of fish is easy to care for that they are also boring – guppies, for example, are known for the vibrant colors and patterns displayed by males of the species. Mollies, platies and swordtails are also available in a wide variety of colors and can be mixed in different combinations to create a colorful array for your first tank. Keep in mind when selecting small species of fish for your first tank that many of these species prefer to be kept in groups with others of their kind and, because they are small, they should not be kept with large or aggressive fish.

Medium and Large Species

One of the most recognizable species of freshwater fish is the angelfish. Not only is this species very popular, but it is also a fairly hardy species, easy to maintain in the home aquarium. Another popular group of fish for new aquarium hobbyists is the gourami family. Gouramis can be found in many different color combinations and most species are hardy, peaceful fish well suited to the community tank. Pearl gouramis, for example, have a very mild temperament and exhibit beautiful coloration that can enhance the aesthetic appeal of any community tank. Another species recommended for new aquarium hobbyists is the plecostomus. Small plecostomus are great for community tanks and require little care because the majority of their diet is gleaned from algae growths and uneaten fish food. When stocking your tank with medium and large species, keep in mind that as these fish grow they may become territorial. This is particularly true regarding plecostomus and male gouramis.

Tips for Starting a New Tank

If you are starting your first tank, there are a few things you need to do in order to ensure that the tank is a safe and healthy environment for fish. Not only do you need to make sure you dechlorinate the tank water and install all of the necessary equipment, you also need to cycle the tank before you can add any fish. The nitrogen cycle is the process through which nitrifying bacteria in your tank convert harmful toxins like ammonia into nitrites and then into less harmful nitrates. Adding an EcoBio-Stone is a simple way to introduce some of these bacteria into your tank to help start a colony for maintaining the nitrogen cycle. EcoBio-Stones are made of porous volcanic cement and are infused with beneficial bacteria. Once these bacteria enter your tank they will multiply and work to keep the water clean and clear while also helping to maintain the nitrogen cycle. Though the species of fish previously mentioned are tolerant of changing water conditions, all fish are more likely to thrive in a clean tank where the water parameters remain stable.

Dietary Needs of Aquarium Fish

Like all living things, aquarium fish have certain nutritional needs that must be met if they are going to thrive and grow. The basic needs of all aquarium fish include protein, lipids (fats), carbohydrates, vitamins and minerals. Though all fish have these basic needs, certain kinds of fish require different amounts of certain nutrients. Carnivorous species of fish, for example, may require high-protein diets while herbivorous fish need more vegetables. It is important to keep in mind that you should feed your fish about 3% of their body weight once or twice a day. Because most species of fish are relatively small, this does not add up to a large amount of food. It becomes especially important, then, to feed your fish the right foods if they are to receive all the nutrients they require.

Types of Fish Food

While the most popular type of aquarium fish food – and also the most readily available – is flake food, this type is not necessarily the most nutritious. Generally, processed foods like flakes, pellets and granules lose a high percentage of their nutrients during processing and are thus not recommended as the staple foods in an aquarium fish diet. To keep your fish healthy, supplement a diet of processed foods with live, freeze-dried and frozen foods. Bloodworms, white worms, brine shrimp and daphnia are some of the most popular types of live foods and many of these foods are also available in frozen and freeze-dried forms. If you do choose to feed your fish flake foods, try to choose one that is specially formulated for the type of fish you have or at least select a vitamin- or mineral-enriched formula. Once you have accumulated a variety of fish foods, create a dietary routine – try to give your fish a different type of food each day of the week.

Tips for Healthy Fish

The amount you feed your fish is almost as important as the type of food you give them. If you overfeed your fish they may become obese and large quantities of uneaten fish food will build up along the bottom of your tank. This build-up of uneaten fish food will result in high levels of ammonia in your tank which could put your fish at risk for ammonia poisoning. Limit the amount of food you give your fish to a quantity they can consume in three to five minutes. This will keep your fish from overindulging and it will also reduce the amount of waste build-up in your substrate.

While controlling the amount of food you give your fish is a good way to reduce waste build-up, you cannot eliminate it completely. In order to keep up with your fish and to break down ammonia as it is produced, consider adding an EcoBio-Stone to your tank. These stones are made of porous volcanic sand and are infused with unique nitrifying bacteria. After these bacteria have been introduced into your tank they will multiply and grow, working to convert harmful ammonia into less harmful nitrates. In combination with routine water changes and controlled feedings, EcoBio-Stones are an easy way to keep your fish healthy while also keeping your tank clean and clear.

Mechanical Filtration

The most basic, and perhaps the most important, type of aquarium filtration is mechanical filtration. Mechanical filtration simply involves the physical removal of solid waste products from tank water. Generally, solid waste takes the shape of uneaten fish food, decaying plant matter and organic waste like feces. Aquarium filters that offer mechanical filtration usually operate by sucking the aquarium water up through an intake tube. The water is then filtered through some kind of sponge and released back into the aquarium. As the water passes through the sponge, solid waste products become lodged in the pores and are thus removed from the aquarium water. This type of filtration is essential in the home aquarium because, as solid waste accumulates along the bottom of the tank, it breaks down in a process that produces ammonia. Ammonia is a substance toxic to fish and if the ammonia levels in your tank become too high, your fish could become stressed, fall ill or even die.

Chemical Filtration

Chemical filtration is often combined with mechanical filtration as a means of removing dissolved wastes in addition to solid wastes from aquarium water. This type of filtration helps to remove a variety of wastes including proteins, hormones and metabolic waste as well as organic acids and compounds. As the filter takes tank water up through the intake tube, it passes through the sponge along with some type of filter media which removes the dissolved wastes. The most common type of filter media is activated carbon. Most modern filters which incorporate chemical filtration utilize filter cartridges that combine the mechanical filtration of a sponge with the chemical filtration of activated carbon. In order to maximize the effectiveness of these filters, the filter cartridge must be replaced every three to four weeks.

Biological Filtration

The third type of filtration, biological filtration, does not necessarily require any special equipment. Biological filtration is a term used to describe the process by which nitrifying bacteria break down wastes in your tank, converting harmful toxins like ammonia into less harmful nitrates. While mechanical filters work to remove solid wastes, there is likely to still be some build-up in your substrate. As these substances decompose, ammonia is produced. The nitrifying bacteria in your tank work to convert ammonia into nitrites then into nitrates, a process called the Nitrogen Cycle. While some filters incorporate a Bio-wheel designed to provide beneficial bacteria a place to grow, the most common places these bacteria grow is in tank substrate and on in-tank surfaces.

Tips for Aquarium Filtration

Regardless what type of filter you choose for your aquarium, you will be required to perform some basic maintenance tasks. It is wise to rinse your filter once in a while to remove any build-up of slime algae. It is also necessary to replace your filter media every three to four weeks to ensure that your filter will keep your aquarium water clean. In addition to these simple maintenance tasks, you can increase the effectiveness of your aquarium filter by adding an EcoBio-Stone to your tank. EcoBio-Block products are composed of porous volcanic sand and infused with beneficial bacteria. Once introduced into your tank, these bacteria multiply to form a colony of nitrifying bacteria which will help your filter to convert harmful toxins like ammonia into less harmful nitrates. EcoBio-Stones are easy to use and they are a great way to help keep your aquarium water clean and clear.