One type of tropical fish disease is ammonia poisoning.  As the name implies, there is too high a level of ammonia in your tank.  The main symptoms of ammonia poisoning are your fish turning a red-lilac color and they’re floating below the surface panting for air.

The remedy for ammonia poisoning is relatively simple to implement, but it’s important to do this right away or your fish’s health may be compromised on a long-term basis.  You need to understand the cycling process of a new tank to limit the ammonia level of the water, as well as to maintain the pH levels and water temperature of the tank.

An additional help is the EcoBio-Block, which can be very effective in keeping your tank from experiencing ammonia spikes that can cause harm to your fish.

Yet, another type of tropical fish disease is cataracts.  Eye-related infections are often caused by the level of waste in your tank.  Cataracts are usually just fungal growths covering the eyes.  Normal aquarium fungicide is usually a very effective form of treatment for cataracts.

To keep your fish from getting cataracts, it’s important to keep the levels of ammonia and nitrate at acceptable levels.  You can also use the EcoBio-Block products to effectively keep ammonia and nitrate levels at levels that are safe for your fish.

Corneybacteriosis is commonly referred to as bulging eyes because it looks like the fish who have corneybacteriosis have bulging eyes.  Additionally, these fish have swelling in their heads.

Corneybacteriosis is usually caused by a large amount of waste in the tank, which is often caused by having too many fish in the tank.  Keeping the level of waste at a low level is the best defense against your fish contracting corneybacteriosis.  Utilizing EcoBio-Blocks in your tank can establish the nitrogen cycle and keep your water clean and pure, thereby reducing the chances of your fish contracting corneybacteriosis.

Goldfish with dropsy

Another common tropical fish disease is dropsy.  Dropsy makes your fish look bloated and their scales appear to be bursting outward.  Dropsy is usually caused by an internal bacterial infection.

It is important to treat dropsy as quickly as possible; otherwise, further internal damage to your fish could be the result.  Anti-bacterial medication can help to treat the infection, along with raising the aquarium water temperature slightly over the next few weeks.

Ichthyophthiriasis, or what is commonly known as ich, ich is a type of tropical fish disease that is indicated by small white spots covering the fish’s body and fins.  A type of parasite is responsible for causing ich.

Cichlid with ich

Treatment for ich involves gradually raising the water temperature to prevent the spread of the parasites that cause ich.  Once the water becomes clear again, then lower the water temperature back to its previous level.  Anti-ich medication can also be helpful, as this will break the cycle of ich and treat the disease in the water.

As you can see, the main keys to preventing tropical fish diseases is paying attention to your fish and their normal appearances, keeping your aquarium’s ammonia and nitrate levels at acceptable levels, and keeping your water clear. Utilizing the line of Eco-Bio Block products (which need to be removed when using medications), can speed up the nitrogen cycle, minimize the number of times you need to change the aquarium water, and revitalize and clarify the water to avoid tropical fish diseases.

Healthy pond with aeration

To maintain a healthy pond, you need to make sure that your pond has good-quality aeration.  A lack of good aeration can lead to a green-colored, algae-filled pond, while good aeration can lead to a crystal-clear and thriving fish pond.

Many kinds of fish require clean, cool, well-oxygenated water.  Water that is not properly aerated will have a low level of dissolved oxygen and will often have stratified water columns, or water that varies in water quality depending on the depth and level of the water.

Finding out the proper level of aeration often takes a trial-and-error approach.  A commonly accepted method of finding the proper aeration is to pump the entire pond through the filter at least once per hour.  This does not guarantee sufficient aeration, however, as the shape, size, and structure of your fish pond could necessitate a different level of aeration in order for the pond to be properly aerated.

An external filter could have the flow returned to the pond using a stream or waterfall.  This can diffuse the current, which can lead to low-flow areas on the opposite side of the pond.  Adding an additional outlet to the flow can usually correct this problem.  Many people will add supplemental flow through an air pump or dedicated pump to ensure proper air flow throughout the entire pond.

Without proper aeration, there will be low dissolved oxygen levels in the water.  If the dissolved oxygen levels are too low, it can cause many problems, with the most dangerous problem being that fish can die if a certain parts per million (ppm) of dissolved oxygen is not maintained.

Additionally, noxious odors can come from the pond when there are low levels of dissolved oxygen in the water.  This is due to the breakdown of organic waste shifting from an aerobic process to a slower anaerobic process, which results in the formation of hydrogen sulfide (that produces the odor).  If the pond is deeper, the lack of oxygen will also create an unusable layer at the bottom of the pond, a place where fish cannot inhabit.  As a result, their living space is reduced and the oxygenated water in that living space is stressed even more because it alone has to sustain the fish.

The most common cause of low oxygen levels is an overabundance of aquatic plants, especially algae.  A moderate number of aquatic plants can be beneficial to the pond because they do release water into the pond.  Planktonic algae are the first step in the food chain of a pond, so their presence is also critical.  However, having too many of them will harm the pond’s environment; while planktonic algae do provide oxygen to the pond during the day, they will also consume oxygen at night.  As a result, heavy algae blooms or thick aquatic vegetation can lead to dangerous low levels of oxygen for the fish, often leading to their deaths.

Poor dissolved oxygen levels also come from high organic waste loads.  Dead vegetation, fertilizer run-off, fish food, and fish waste can all contribute to the amount of organic waste load.  These elements can be naturally broken down in a pond due to the presence of beneficial bacteria, but like most things, that bacteria needs oxygen in order to do it, which is why it is critical that you keep the oxygen levels at acceptable levels or higher.

To do this, you need to consider the two main types of aeration systems:  surface aeration and bottom based aeration.  To decide which would be more beneficial for your pond, consider the depth of your pond.  If your pond is less than six feet deep, a surface aeration system is likely best, while deeper ponds should utilize a bottom based aeration system.

The main difference between the two types of aeration systems is that surface aerators are usually floating aeration units that pull in water from the top foot or two of the pond and splash it into the air.  As the water falls back to the pond, oxygen transfer and the venting of gases occur.  This means that the aeration is taking place just at the surface, which is why this method of aeration works best for smaller ponds.

Conversely, bottom based aeration systems or diffused aeration involves pushing air down to the bottom of the pond or lake and allowing the bubbles to rise naturally to the surface of the water.  The bubbles provide the bulk of the aeration, which makes bottom based aeration systems the ideal choice for larger ponds and lakes.  As the bubbles rise, they de-stratify the water, which eliminates that oxygen-poor zone down at the bottom of the pond or lake.  The oxygen rich water helps to create a healthier water column.

Proper aeration will not only keep your fish alive, but will also stimulate beneficial pond bacteria that can break down waste and reduce the bottom muck layer.  Aerobic bacteria will also be more numerous than anaerobic bacteria, which will reduce the odor that your pond produces.  Phosphates, which algae thrive on, are eliminated, preventing the algae from accumulating in your pond.  Your overall water quality will also be improved.  Gasses like carbon dioxide and hydrogen sulfide can be easily vented.  Quality aeration systems can also keep fish from dying in ponds in northern states during the winter, as the pond’s surface will not freeze over, allowing gasses to be vented during the winter, which is critical to the survival of your fish.

To further aid the presence and growth of aerobic bacteria, you should utilize EcoBio-Block nsM and/or EcoBio-Block Wave.  These products have been shown to increase the presence of nitrifying bacteria and decrease the time it takes to establish the denitrification cycle in your pond.  This will help to reduce the odor emanating from your pond and it has been established as safe for all fish and plants.

As you can see, pond aeration is critical to the survival of your fish and to the presence of aerobic bacteria, which can break down waste more quickly and with less odor than anaerobic bacteria.  There are two main types of aeration:  surface aeration and bottom based aeration.  Surface aeration is best for ponds that are less than six feet, as aeration only occurs at the surface.  For deeper ponds and lakes, bottom based aeration is best, since this keeps the bottom part of the pond/lake enriched with oxygen, critical to the water level remaining high and allowing your fish to live throughout the whole area.  By carefully considering and implementing the proper aeration system, your fish can remain healthy and add to the landscape of your pond.

Clear and healthy pond

In order to maintain a pond of healthy fish, it is essential that you keep your pond water healthy and clear.  There are several factors you must pay attention to and maintain in order to achieve this.

Many people make the mistake of overfeeding their fish.  It is suggested that you only feed your fish twice a day for 3-5 minutes, whatever they can eat in that amount of time.  Any food that they do not eat should be removed immediately afterwards.  Leaving leftover food in the pond will lead to the accumulation of bacteria, which will lead to an explosion of algae, which results in the pond water turning green and a depletion of the oxygen in the water, which can endanger the lives of your fish.

You should add oxygenating plants or submerged plants to your pond.  These plants act as natural filters and remove nutrients from the pond. Algae need nutrients, specifically nitrates and phosphates, in order to reproduce.  Therefore, if there is a higher level of nutrients in the water, there will be more algae.  That is why it would be advantageous for you to have as many oxygenating and submerged plants in the water as possible to keep the nutrient level low, and as a result, the algae level of your pond.  It’s also important to have as many submerged plants as possible because many types of fish tend to eat the submerged plants, but provided there aren’t too many fish, the plants should be able to reproduce faster than the fish are able to eat them.

Adding floating plants to your pond, such as water lettuce, water hyacinths, and water lilies will provide shade for your pond.  This is important because algae need sunlight in order to reproduce.  The shade will inhibit the algae from producing in your pond and turning the water green and cloudy.  Additionally, floating plants will compete with the algae for nutrients in the water, further inhibiting the algae from taking over your pond and endangering your fish.

It is critical that you have the proper equipment to maintain the health of your pond.  You must have a pump and filter that is able to work 24 hours a day, 7 days a week continuously.  It is important that you obtain the right size for your pond.  The pump you obtain should at least be able to move the full volume of the water of the pond each hour.

It is a good idea to fill the bottom of your pond with smooth river gravel or pebbles, as beneficial and helpful bacteria will grow on the gravel and pebbles.  You want these bacteria to be present, as they help to digest fish waste and plant matter that settles to the bottom of the pond and decays.  Fish waste can throw off the delicate pH balance of your pond due to the ammonia that it gives off, making the water more basic (i.e. pH level rises), which allows algae to flourish in your pond more easily and harder for your fish to survive.

In addition, EcoBio-Block nsM and/or EcoBio-Block Wave can help to clear your pond of cloudy pond water and fill your pond with helpful bacteria that will maintain the health of your pond and fish.  Its special formula maintains clear pond water, decomposes organic matter, reduces the need for water changing, quickly establishes nitrifying bacteria, removes odors, is easy to use, safe for your fish, and produces results in as little as 2-6 weeks.

Maintaining a clear and healthy pond is essential for the long-term survival of your fish.  Algae is the primary nemesis to the long-term survival of your fish, as they take up most of the nutrients and the space in the ponds.  The best ways to combat the growth of algae is through reducing the nutrients in the water with floating plants and submerged plants, only feeding your fish a few times a day and removing any excess food, having the right pump and filter for your pond, and utilizing EcoBio-Block products to increase the number of nitrifying bacteria and maintaining the healthy pH levels of your pond.  By doing these things, you can have a beautiful looking pond with a healthy complement of fish in it for a long time to come.

Waterlily

Did you know that plants are an essential element of the ecological system of your pond? Water plants are also an important part of the maintenance of your pond. If you haven’t planned to have plants in your pond, you might want to rethink that decision.

Many people do prefer the rather stark look in pond design, and are very happy with a no-live-plant pond. However, if you do not have plants in your pond, it will soon become full of algae, which is not a pretty sight. The reason for this is that algae vie with the plants for all of the different nutrients that are in the water.

Plants are beautiful, and they can do even more for your pond if you do decide to use them. A varied selection of plants in your pond will help to filter the water by turning the fish waste into food for the plants. Plants will also provide oxygen for your fish, and by covering the surface of the water, will protect your plants from predators. By having plants in your pond, your fish will have a perfect habitat for spawning.

Aquatic plants perform many essential jobs while at the same time adding beauty to your pond. In the daytime, the plants in your pond take in carbon dioxide, and then release oxygen into the air. At night, water plants do the exact opposite, and take in oxygen, then release carbon dioxide into the air.

Mother Nature has her own system for making pond water that has become cloudy clear again, and for purifying water in general. This is done in nature via the use of beneficial bacteria. The bacteria break down the organic waste that any pond naturally will have, and then returns it back from whence it came. You can give Mother Nature a boost by using EcoBio-Block nsM, a product that makes use of this system of nature. The beneficial bacteria live and multiply in the block, and keep your pond populated with beneficial bacteria that will make your pond‘s environment clear and healthy.

The Eco-Bio Block nsM and EcoBio-Block Wave does not take the place of plants. Nor does it take the place of proper pond maintenance. What it will do is cut down on the amount of maintenance that your pond will need. The block decomposes organic matter, which clarifies the water in your pond so that it is beautiful and clear, while eliminating odors . The nitrifying bacteria in the Eco-Bio Block nsM establishes itself quickly in new pond setups as well as in ponds that have been in place for some time.

You’ll find that the Eco-Bio Block nsM is easy to use. All you must do is rinse the block well and soak it in a container overnight, then place it in your pond near anywhere the water is flowing. An Eco-Bio Block nsM will give you more than 2 years of improved water quality in your pond. Since the Eco-Bio Block nsM was originally used in Japan to clear up pollution in rivers, canals, and even the ocean, it will do an amazing job for you in your backyard pond.

Before you go out in your backyard with a shovel and start to dig, there is some pondering to do. It goes without saying that the size, depth, and design of the pond you buy should be decided upon well before you purchase the materials needed to make it. You will also want to make your mind up concerning the types of fish or other aquatic life that you want to add to your pond.

You may want to choose a natural pond design, one built and landscaped so as to give the initial impression that the pond has been there for many years. This design can take many forms if the person making it remembers to follow the natural curves and forms of ponds found naturally in nature. Roughly hewn rocks look fantastic in a design such as this, and you can choose plants that are taller and that appear more like what you would see in a nature setting.

You may be more interested in a more formal pond. This design is usually a geometric form, chosen to work well with the design of your house and any outbuildings you may have. Most of the time, it will be symmetrical and have an edge that is either of smooth, flat stone or paved. You can most definitely use plants with this type of pond, but the look is more subtle than the wild plantings more suited to a natural pond. Your formal pond may work best for you if it is raised off the ground, though it does cost more to build this design.

Remember what we spoke of above? We mentioned how maintenance is necessary to keep the water in your pond looking clear and clean. You can cut down a lot on the pond maintenance that would normally be necessary by making use of the EcoBio-Block nsM or the EcoBio-Block Wave products.

Choosing an EcoBio-Block product is one of the easiest methods around for keeping your pond water clear. Both have beneficial bacteria inside of them that will live and reproduce for more than two years. This naturally helps to keep the pond water clear, as these bacteria will also get rid of any organic matter by decomposing it. It also discourages algae which can also discourage mosquito larvae. It is safe for your fish and your plants, and will really save you a lot of time – time that can be spent enjoying the sight and sound of your new pond.

Click here to view the embedded video.

Click here to view the embedded video.

Using an aquarium vacuum for partial water change

One of the first things a novice aquarium owner hears from fish-keeping friends and/or pet store personnel is the need for partial water changes of about 20 percent every few weeks, preferably on the same day of the week so as to have a set interval each time. This news may cause the new owner of an aquarium some apprehension, as they look at the size of their tank and try to figure out just how they are going to change the water without making a big mess.

You have tank owners who do this the hard way. They catch their fish, which can often take a while, and place them in a bucket already filled with water from the tank. Next, they dip out all the water by hand, using a bucket or some other container to do so. They then remove all of the wet, often smelly gravel by hand as well.

By the time the inside walls of the aquarium are spotless, the filter has been cleaned, the gravel rinsed clean, and the water replaced either by walking back and forth from the nearest faucet with a heavy bucket of water, splashing it here and there, or by pulling a garden hose inside, the typical aquarium owner is exhausted.

Other tank owners take a shortcut, which eliminates a good portion of the tank maintenance work. They make use of an aquarium vacuum when they take care of their partial water changes every 21 days or so. The typical aquarium vacuum attaches to a faucet indoors or out, and removes the water with the help of the water pressure from the faucet.

A tube is attached to one end of the aquarium vacuum, and can be pushed into deep gravel to suck out all the mulm waste and uneaten food, leaving cleaner gravel behind. Typically, the entire gravel bed is cleaned in this manner, then the filter medium is changed, and water is re-added to the aquarium.

There are some people who are new to the hobby of keeping fish that assume if taking 20 percent of the water out of the tank, then doing a partial water change of 50 percent or more would be even better. Unfortunately, these folks learn the hard way that removing too much water from an aquarium is not a good thing to do.

Aquarium water has a different chemistry after fish have lived in it for a period of time. Uneaten fish food and the waste products excreted by the fish cause these changes. The fish get used to the water chemistry. When too much of this ìlived inî water is removed, the fish cannot cope with the change, and become quite stressed. The weaker fish will die, often just a short time after they are placed back into the freshly cleaned aquarium. Hardier fish will live longer, perhaps for a few weeks or a couple of months before they also die.

Those uninitiated in fish keeping will swear that their partial water change killed their fish, and harbor the belief that doing partial water changes is not a good thing. They firmly believe that partial water changes should not be done at all if you want your fish to stay alive!

A much easier solution for solving the problem is to make use of the EcoBio-Block family of products. The EcoBio-Block is made from a distinctive type of volcanic rock that has been populated with live, friendly bacteria. These bacteria will grow and reproduce for a two-year period of time as they feed on the uneaten food and fish waste. This helps to keep the water crystal clear and free from odor, and makes frequent water changes unnecessary. You will have much more free time to enjoy the antics of your fish in your beautifully clean aquarium when you use an EcoBio-Block.

The condition of the pet store itself can give you a good idea as to whether or not the fish they sell are healthy. If it is cluttered, or has a funky odor, the odds are good that the fish will not be bursting with good health. Take a look at the fish tanks in the store. If they are dirty, with cloudy water or algae on the sides, you do not want to purchase any fish! If you see many dead fish, any fish you buy from this merchant will more than likely die as well, for there is obviously some sort of fish disease being passed from one fish to another.

Let’s say you leave this pet store and go to another one in search of your new fish. You walk in, and the surroundings seem to be much cleaner and more orderly than the previous pet store. That’s a good sign, but you also need to take some time to watch the fish as they swim around in their tanks. Watch how they interact with their tank mates. Do any of the fish seem to be sluggish, swimming slowly while other fish zip around them effortlessly? If so, these fish are probably sick, and may soon infect the other fish in the tank.

Spend some time observing the fins on fish that otherwise seem to be healthy. Do you see any tears on the fins? If there are more than one or two tears, they could be an indication of stress or even sickness. Other fish will often bully fish who are becoming weak, which causes the excessive tearing of the fins. The uninitiated may see this bullying in action, feel sorry for the fish, and buy it to rescue it from a bad situation. Don’t make this mistake!

You will also want to make sure to look at the body of the fish you are interested in buying. If you see many missing scales, any sores or odd growths, you are probably looking at a sick fish. If the fish in the tank seem to be sprinkled with tiny white spots, they are suffering from a sick disease known as Ichthyophthirius Multifiliis, or Ich for short. Many people also call this disease Ick. Ich is caused by a protozoan, and is a common fish disease that can be hard to get rid of. Needless to say, if you take home a fish with Ich, your other fish will become infected as well. Take note of the eyes of the fish. They should not be cloudy or bulge out.

Once you get home with your healthy fish, you will want to keep them that way. One of the simplest methods of keeping a fish healthy is making sure their environment is also clean. Partial water changes are usually what are necessary to keep the water in an aquarium clean and the water clear. Instead of having to set aside time out of your busy schedule to complete this necessary task, why not try EcoBio-Block Products?

The EcoBio-Stone sits unobtrusively on the bottom of your aquarium. It is infused with friendly bacteria. These bacteria will keep your water healthy and crystal clear for up to two years. Using one of EcoBio-Block Products is an easy method to make sure that the water in your aquarium is low maintenance.

There can be a lot of reasons why your fish are dying. Generally, it happens when a fish tank is new. It pays to buy an aquarium water test kit to determine how much ammonia, nitrites and nitrates are in the aquarium, and how high or low the pH is. These are the four most important tests for your tank.

In the nitrogen cycle of the fish tank, an important biological cycle, the fish give off nitrogenous wastes when they eliminate and these products break down into ammonia, which is very toxic to most fishes. In aquariums, this nitrogen product can build up into levels that are harmful to your fish. When you measure the ammonia level, it should be negligible.

The nitrogen cycle, is the process of getting rid of ammonia using nitrifying bacteria that convert the ammonia to nitrite and then to nitrate, which is not as hazardous. The cycle goes from ammonia to nitrite to nitrate. These bacteria are present everywhere and establish themselves eventually in your fish tank as soon as the ammonia builds up. It is a slow process, however, and you can lose fish in the meantime.

One way of improving the nitrogen status of your aquarium is to purchase an EcoBio-Block Products that contains the nitrifying bacteria within the block. You rinse the block and soak it in chlorine free water over night before placing it in your tank. Normally, in a few weeks or so, you can have your ammonia levels drop followed by drops in nitrite levels. You can safely put your fish in then and expect that they will survive.

The other thing is to take a couple of hardy and cheap fish and put them in your tank. Don’t overfeed the fish. More food means that more ammonia will build up. For freshwater fish, try some zebra danios or some barbs. For saltwater tanks, use damselfish. Don’t use feeder fish for your tank as they can introduce unwanted diseases in your tank. The initial cheap fish you put into the tank get the nitrogen cycle going and you can then add more delicate and expensive fish to your tank.

Use your test kit to determine the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate level in your tank and use this as a guide for how healthy your tank is. It takes time for the bacteria to develop unless you are using a EcoBio-Stone to speed up the nitrification process.

Poor pH can also be a cause of a loss of fish. The pH is a measure of how acidic or how alkaline a fish tank is. Ideally, the pH should be around 7.0, which is “neutral”. However, fish can generally tolerate pH of 5.5 to 8.0. You can get a test strip to measure the level and if you need to change it, look at ways to change the pH slowly.

If your water contains buffers, you will not be able to change the pH very easily. Remember, too, that fish can tolerate a wide range of pH levels but do not tolerate sudden changes in pH.  Sometimes it’s better to leave the pH alone as long as your fish are thriving.

If you still think you need to adjust the pH, one way to lower it slowly is to add some driftwood to your fish tank or to the tank. A cleaned off seashell or coral skeleton will gradually increase the pH of your aquarium. The downside of both these solutions is that they will stain the color of the water brown or yellow for quite a while, but it will alter the pH in a safe way.

Maintain your tank well and you can have a healthy, happy fish population.

Betta Fish

If you have been in a pet store or any type of store that sells live pet fish, you have probably seen a display of small glass or plastic bowls or containers in the fish department. A closer look will reveal that each bowl or container holds a brightly colored fish with beautiful long, flowing fins. A nearby sign tells you that these are male Betta fish.

Betta Fish have the scientific name of Betta splendens, and are also known as Siamese Fighting Fish. The Betta originated in Thailand, and has been selectively bred for a long period of time in that country as well as in Southeast Asia. The goal of these breeders is to produce Betta fish that have stamina as well as the aggressive nature needed for fighting. Fighting ability is prized in the Betta, especially in their native countries, where people enjoy gambling on which male Betta will win a bout.

Betta Fish usually live for two or three years, with some reaching the age of five. The male Betta is the sex commonly kept as a pet. Female Bettas are smaller and have shorter fins than the males, although they do retain the gorgeous coloration that Bettas are noted for. Females also do not usually have the confrontational nature attributed to males. It is not unusual to see males only for sale in a pet shop, which is a shame. Female Bettas make delightful pets with great personalities, which is probably why more and more stores have decided to add the female to their inventory.

It is understood that you should not attempt to keep a male and a female Betta together full time. Females can be just as spunky as the males, and a fight could ensue unless it is breeding season. When the male Betta builds what is known as a bubble nest, he is trying to attract a female for breeding. If the female Betta is introduced to the tank when the nest is visible, breeding can take place. The bubbles are fashioned out of mucus, and are sticky. This allows the female’s eggs to stay in the nest.

Betta fish need a diet that is high in protein, but can get tired of eating the same food day after day. The key here is variety. There are freeze-dried products such as brine shrimp that are highly suitable for Bettas. If you should notice that your Betta is having trouble keeping his balance in the water, he could very well be constipated. Feeding tiny bits of a cooked pea over a period of one to two days is usually sufficient to banish this problem.

Many people keep their Betta in a large fish bowl or tank without any type of filtration. Unlike other commonly kept aquarium fish, the Betta does not need a filter to breathe. Nature has equipped the Betta with a labyrinth organ that allows them to get oxygen from the air above the surface of the water. If you do decide to use a filter in your Betta tank, make sure that the current from the filter is not too strong. Bettas detest the moving water that filtration creates, and a strong current can negatively affect their health.

These fish enjoy a water temperature of 78 to 80 degrees. A small, 25 watt heater can be used in Betta tanks that hold about a gallon of water. Larger tanks can of course use larger heaters. If you are keeping your Betta in a smaller tank or bowl, try to situate it in a warm room beneath a light so that the heat from the bulb can help heat the water.

You should clean your Betta bowl or tank on a weekly basis. Seasoned Betta owners will do a partial water change, removing around 20 to 30 percent of the water. Never change all of the water at once, as the shock can kill your Betta. Cloudy water can be a problem in Betta tanks. There are many remedies for this on the market, but with each of them, fully changing the water is necessary after treatment. Instead of using one of these remedies, why not use an EcoBio-Stone S to keep your Betta water clear as crystal?

The EcoBio Block family of products includes the EcoBio-Stone S and EcoBio-Pebbles, which are perfect for a small Betta tank or bowl. What do these stone do? They are infused with friendly bacteria, which reproduce for two years or longer. These bacteria are responsible for keeping the water in your Betta home clear and clean smelling. By using the EcoBio-Stone, the need for tank maintenance is lessened a great deal. Why not try the EcoBio-Stone S or EcoBio-Pebbles for your Betta today?