Basics of Breeding Aquarium Fish

pregnant guppy

The first thing you need to know about breeding aquarium fish is that they can be divided into two categories based on the type of breeder they are – livebearer or egg layer. Livebearers undergo internal fertilization and give birth to live fry. Egg layers, on the other hand, may spawn via either internal or external fertilization and the young are born in eggs. If your fish are egg layers, you may need to delve a little deeper to determine which type of egg layer the species is. Egg laying species of fish may be egg scatterers – fish that scatter their eggs among fine-leaved plants – or they could be egg depositors which deposit their eggs on flat rocks or hide them in caves. Some species build nests for their eggs or actually take the eggs into their mouths where they will be protected until hatching.

Breeding Tank Requirements

While each species of fish may have certain requirements for breeding tanks, the general principles remain the same for most species. The breeding tank does not need to be large – a 15- or 20- gallon tank should be sufficient. In order to facilitate easy cleaning, keep the tank bottom bare with the exception of fine-leaved plants for egg scatterers and broad-leaved plants or flat rocks for egg depositors. Outfit the tank with an aquarium heater to help maintain a stable water temperature and install a sponge filter in one corner of the tank. A sponge filter will provide the necessary mechanical filtration and will provide a place for beneficial bacteria to grow while producing a current gentle enough that eggs and newly hatched fry will not be put at risk. Once you have the basic setup for your breeding tank completed you can make adjustments based on the specific requirements of the species.

Spawning Aquarium Fish

Before introducing your fish into the breeding tank it is wise to condition the breeding pair on healthy live foods for at least a week. Once you introduce the fish, keep a close watch on them to be sure they get along. Some fish will spawn readily upon being introduced into the breeding tank while others may require several hours or even days to breed. During this time, monitor your fish to be sure the male does not overly antagonize the female. After spawning has occurred you may want to remove the parent fish from the tank so they do not eat their eggs. Some species exhibit parental care behaviors, however, in guarding and feeding their young so do some research beforehand to determine whether your fish will do so.

Additional Tips and Considerations

As is true of any aquarium, maintaining high water quality in the breeding tank is extremely important. If the water quality in the tank is poor, your breeding pair may not be inclined to spawn. If spawning does occur, poor water quality could lead to an increased risk of the eggs succumbing to fungus. To keep the water in your breeding tank clean and clear, consider adding a mesh bag full of EcoBio-Pebbles to the aquarium. EcoBio-Pebbles are made from porous volcanic rock and are infused with beneficial bacteria and essential nutrients. After the bacteria have been introduced into your breeding tank they will multiply rapidly to form a colony that will help establish and maintain the nitrogen cycle, keeping your tank water pure and healthy. By keeping the EcoBio-Pebbles in a mesh bag you can keep the bottom of your breeding tank bare for easy cleaning while still benefiting from the water clarifying quality of the pebbles themselves.

Bacterial Diseases

Goldfish with Popeye

Poor water quality is the most common cause of bacterial infections and fish that are already stressed due to poor tank conditions or prior injury have an increased susceptibility to bacterial diseases. Bacterial infections may be either external or internal but external infections are the most common. External bacterial infections often produce symptoms like ragged or rotting fins, lethargy, reddening of the skin and ulcers. Internal infections may result in hemorrhaging and fluid build-up. Some of the most common bacterial infections include fin rot, dropsy, tuberculosis and red pest. Salt baths are a common treatment for bacterial infections, though medications such as potassium permanganate and chloramine-T are also effective.

Fungal Diseases

Fungal diseases are some of the most common among freshwater fish and examples of fungal diseases include cotton mouth, egg fungus and gill rot. Because fungal spores are already present in most aquariums, it only takes a decline in water quality for the disease to spread. Fish that are already stressed or injured are much more likely to contract fungal infections. Common symptoms of fungal diseases include white cottony growths, excessive mucus production and difficulty breathing or eating. Fungal infections are most often treated with antifungal agents such as phenoxyethanol and Malachite Green, though salt baths are also known to be effective.

Parasite Diseases

Parasite infections are caused by microscopic organisms which enter the bodies of fish and feed off of them, often killing the fish in the process. Common parasite infections include Ich, Hexamita, Chilodonella and Velvet. These diseases often produce symptoms such as ulcers, visible cysts or spots, loss of appetite and rubbing against tank objects. Increasing tank temperature can sometimes help to speed up the life cycle of the parasite but more common treatments include potassium permanganate, formalin and acriflavine.

Viral Diseases

Viral infections are some of the most difficult to diagnose and to treat because they are largely internal and cannot be treated directly. The most recognizable symptom of viral disease is wart-like growths, though red streaks or bruises on the skin and fins are also common. Some viral diseases may result in bloating, hemorrhaging, anorexia and lethargy. Fish pox, Lymphocystis and viral hemorrhagic septicemia are some of the most common viral infections. Most viral infections have no cure and even if the infected fish survives it may be a lifelong carrier of the disease.

Tips for Keeping Fish Healthy

You already know that keeping your fish tank clean is the key to keeping your fish healthy. What you may not realize, however, is that something as simple as adding an EcoBio-Stone to your tank can make a big difference in maintaining high water quality. EcoBio-Stones are made from porous volcanic cement and infused with beneficial bacteria. When the stone is immersed in water, the beneficial bacteria multiply to form a colony in your tank that will help maintain the nitrogen cycle and clarify the water. When combined with routine water changes and adequate filtration, an EcoBio-Stone can help to keep your aquarium clean and clear which will lower the chances of your fish contracting a disease.

Small Species of Fish

Neon Tetras

Many of the smaller species of freshwater fish you are likely to see in pet stores are hardy and tolerant of varying water conditions. Some of the most popular small species for beginning aquarists include neon tetras, danios, barbs and livebearers such as guppies, mollies and swordtails. Do not think that just because a species of fish is easy to care for that they are also boring – guppies, for example, are known for the vibrant colors and patterns displayed by males of the species. Mollies, platies and swordtails are also available in a wide variety of colors and can be mixed in different combinations to create a colorful array for your first tank. Keep in mind when selecting small species of fish for your first tank that many of these species prefer to be kept in groups with others of their kind and, because they are small, they should not be kept with large or aggressive fish.

Medium and Large Species

One of the most recognizable species of freshwater fish is the angelfish. Not only is this species very popular, but it is also a fairly hardy species, easy to maintain in the home aquarium. Another popular group of fish for new aquarium hobbyists is the gourami family. Gouramis can be found in many different color combinations and most species are hardy, peaceful fish well suited to the community tank. Pearl gouramis, for example, have a very mild temperament and exhibit beautiful coloration that can enhance the aesthetic appeal of any community tank. Another species recommended for new aquarium hobbyists is the plecostomus. Small plecostomus are great for community tanks and require little care because the majority of their diet is gleaned from algae growths and uneaten fish food. When stocking your tank with medium and large species, keep in mind that as these fish grow they may become territorial. This is particularly true regarding plecostomus and male gouramis.

Tips for Starting a New Tank

If you are starting your first tank, there are a few things you need to do in order to ensure that the tank is a safe and healthy environment for fish. Not only do you need to make sure you dechlorinate the tank water and install all of the necessary equipment, you also need to cycle the tank before you can add any fish. The nitrogen cycle is the process through which nitrifying bacteria in your tank convert harmful toxins like ammonia into nitrites and then into less harmful nitrates. Adding an EcoBio-Stone is a simple way to introduce some of these bacteria into your tank to help start a colony for maintaining the nitrogen cycle. EcoBio-Stones are made of porous volcanic cement and are infused with beneficial bacteria. Once these bacteria enter your tank they will multiply and work to keep the water clean and clear while also helping to maintain the nitrogen cycle. Though the species of fish previously mentioned are tolerant of changing water conditions, all fish are more likely to thrive in a clean tank where the water parameters remain stable.

Dietary Needs of Aquarium Fish

Like all living things, aquarium fish have certain nutritional needs that must be met if they are going to thrive and grow. The basic needs of all aquarium fish include protein, lipids (fats), carbohydrates, vitamins and minerals. Though all fish have these basic needs, certain kinds of fish require different amounts of certain nutrients. Carnivorous species of fish, for example, may require high-protein diets while herbivorous fish need more vegetables. It is important to keep in mind that you should feed your fish about 3% of their body weight once or twice a day. Because most species of fish are relatively small, this does not add up to a large amount of food. It becomes especially important, then, to feed your fish the right foods if they are to receive all the nutrients they require.

Types of Fish Food

While the most popular type of aquarium fish food – and also the most readily available – is flake food, this type is not necessarily the most nutritious. Generally, processed foods like flakes, pellets and granules lose a high percentage of their nutrients during processing and are thus not recommended as the staple foods in an aquarium fish diet. To keep your fish healthy, supplement a diet of processed foods with live, freeze-dried and frozen foods. Bloodworms, white worms, brine shrimp and daphnia are some of the most popular types of live foods and many of these foods are also available in frozen and freeze-dried forms. If you do choose to feed your fish flake foods, try to choose one that is specially formulated for the type of fish you have or at least select a vitamin- or mineral-enriched formula. Once you have accumulated a variety of fish foods, create a dietary routine – try to give your fish a different type of food each day of the week.

Tips for Healthy Fish

The amount you feed your fish is almost as important as the type of food you give them. If you overfeed your fish they may become obese and large quantities of uneaten fish food will build up along the bottom of your tank. This build-up of uneaten fish food will result in high levels of ammonia in your tank which could put your fish at risk for ammonia poisoning. Limit the amount of food you give your fish to a quantity they can consume in three to five minutes. This will keep your fish from overindulging and it will also reduce the amount of waste build-up in your substrate.

While controlling the amount of food you give your fish is a good way to reduce waste build-up, you cannot eliminate it completely. In order to keep up with your fish and to break down ammonia as it is produced, consider adding an EcoBio-Stone to your tank. These stones are made of porous volcanic sand and are infused with unique nitrifying bacteria. After these bacteria have been introduced into your tank they will multiply and grow, working to convert harmful ammonia into less harmful nitrates. In combination with routine water changes and controlled feedings, EcoBio-Stones are an easy way to keep your fish healthy while also keeping your tank clean and clear.

Quarantine tank with EcoBio-Stone S

When one of your fish falls ill it may only be a matter of time before the disease spreads to your other tank inhabitants. For this reason it is extremely important for you to keep an eye out for the early symptoms of disease. If you catch the disease early enough you will be able to quarantine the sick fish in a hospital tank to ensure a speedy recovery and to prevent your other fish from falling ill. A hospital tank, or quarantine tank, is a fairly basic set-up and it is generally easy to maintain.

Setting Up the Tank

Because you will usually keep just one fish in the hospital tank at a time it does not need to be large – 10 gallons is a sufficient size. The bottom of the tank should be kept bare of gravel or other substrate to facilitate easy cleaning and to prevent the build-up of disease-harboring bacteria. Do not over-decorate the tank – simply provide a few plants or an overturned terra cotta pot to give your fish places to hide. Hospital tanks have very few requirements other than clean water and adequate filtration but you need to choose wisely when selecting a filter for your tank. Power filters that have a low setting are generally recommended for hospital tanks because they provide both chemical and mechanical filtration without creating a current powerful enough to disturb your sick fish.

Using a Hospital Tank

When you notice the symptoms of disease beginning to manifest in your tank, set up your hospital tank as quickly as possible. Use as much water from the original tank as you can when filling the hospital tank in order to decrease the amount of stress your fish experience in switching tanks. Use an in-tank thermometer to monitor and control the water temperature in the tank and administer whatever medications your fish require on a regular basis.

Other Tips for Hospital Tanks

If you have a large tank with many fish, it may be wise to set up a permanent hospital tank. By doing this you can rest assured that if one of your fish happens to fall ill you will not be putting the rest of your fish at risk by delaying the removal of the sick fish from the tank. A hospital tank can also be used as a quarantine tank when you bring new fish home from the pet store. To prevent the spread of disease you should always quarantine new fish for at least seven days. This will ensure that the new fish do not pass an existing illness on to your other fish.

A quick and easy way to ensure that the water in your hospital tank stays clean and clear is to use an EcoBio-Stone. EcoBio-Stones are made from porous volcanic rock and cement block and they are infused with nutrients and beneficial bacteria designed to keep your tank healthy. Once introduced into your tank, these beneficial bacteria will multiply and work to speed up the nitrogen cycle, keeping your tank water clean and clear. Not only do EcoBi0-Block products help keep your tank healthy, they also reduce the amount of routine maintenance required.

No matter how careful you are in caring for your aquarium fish, the chances are good that you will eventually experience the outbreak of some kind of disease. By acting quickly in setting up and utilizing a hospital tank, however, you can effectively curtail the spread of this disease. Learning how to set up a hospital tank, and then putting that knowledge to use, is a simple way to ensure that your sick fish recover quickly and your other fish do not fall ill.

Platy fry

While several species of freshwater aquarium fish breed readily under a variety of circumstances, some have specific requirements that must be met before they are likely to spawn. The basics of breeding, however, are fairly uniform among most species of freshwater aquarium fish. The first thing you must do is to select a breeding pair, or a trio for some species, and quarantine them in a breeding tank. Once you have done so, you can begin the process of conditioning your fish for breeding.

Setting Up a Breeding Tank

The size of the breeding tank should depend on the size of the fish, but ten to twenty gallons is usually sufficient. The tank should be bare-bottomed in order to make it easier to clean and it should be decorated sparsely. It is wise to provide a few hiding places like large rocks or terra cotta pots in the event that the female needs a place to rest and recover from the male’s aggressive advances. Some species – egg-layers in particular – prefer a breeding tank stocked with live plants on which they will deposit their eggs.

Encouraging Your Fish to Spawn

Maintaining a steady temperature and providing a healthy, varied diet are two of the most important elements in encouraging your fish to spawn. The temperature of the breeding tank should be determined by the breed of fish but, in many cases, slowly raising the temperature encourages breeding behavior. In some species, however, the opposite is true. Corydoras catfish, for example, typically spawn after a recent rainfall has lowered the temperature in their native habitat, the Amazon River.

Offer your fish a varied diet consisting of small amounts of live, frozen, flake and pellets foods several times a day in order to condition them for breeding. After a few days you should begin to notice courtship and spawning behavior. The male of the species will often chase the female around the tank and some fish, like betta fish, will prepare a bubble nest and collect the eggs after spawning has occurred.

Caring for Fry

Some species of fish, such as cichlids, care for their fry after they have hatched but most freshwater fish are more likely to eat their own young. This being the case, it is wise to remove the parents from the breeding tank as soon as possible after spawning has occurred. If you are breeding an egg-laying species, dose the tank with methylene blue to prevent fungus from killing the eggs. Install a sponge filter in the corner of the tank to provide filtration without putting the fry at risk for being sucked up an intake valve.

For the first few days after hatching, the fry of most egg-laying species will subsist on the remainder of their yolk sacs. The fry of live-bearing species, however, should be started on a diet of newly hatched brine shrimp or a liquid fry food such as infusoria. During the first few weeks after hatching it is important to feed the fry small amounts several times a day. Once they have tripled in size you may begin to feed them finely crushed flake foods and, as they continue to grow, move them to a larger tank.

Tips for Breeding Success

If your fish are not in prime condition, they will be unlikely to spawn. In addition to a healthy diet, clean water is essential to the health and well-being of your fish. Establishing a colony of beneficial bacteria in your tank is one of the best ways to keep the water quality in your tank high. Install an EcoBio-Stone to begin a colony of nitrifying bacteria that will help to remove odor, break down wastes, and keep the water clear. EcoBio-Stones are made of natural volcanic rock infused with beneficial bacteria that will multiply readily upon being introduced into your tank. Not only is this product perfect for the breeding tank, but it can also be used in fry tanks where power filters are not recommended due to the danger they pose toward delicate fry.

Community fish tank

Regarding tropical fish compatibility, there are three major categories into which most species of fish fall: community; semi-aggressive and aggressive. Community fish are those species which are typically peaceful and get along well with most other fish. Danios, tetras, guppies, swordtails, platys and mollies are community fish that not only do well with a variety of other species but thrive best in groups, or schools, made up of their own species.

Semi-aggressive tropical fish are those which have a tendency to be territorial but generally tolerate community fish. Some examples of fish belonging to this category include barbs, gouramis, eels, loaches and sharks. In most cases, these species can co-exist happily with other species provided there is enough space in the tank to reduce the need of the semi-aggressive fish to defend its territory. Breeding is another major concern which factors into how well one fish will get along with another. Semi-aggressive and aggressive fish should be limited to one male of the species per tank. If two males of the same species are kept in one tank, the stronger male is likely to torment the other until it falls ill and dies.

Some of the most aggressive species of tropical fish are also the largest. Oscars and cichlids are the most common species belonging to this category and they do best when kept in large tanks with few other fish. Some species of cichlid can be extremely aggressive so it is important that you do your research or consult a professional at your local aquarium supply store before adding a cichlid to your aquarium. When they are small, plecostomus are generally fairly peaceful but medium and large plecostumus can be also very territorial and aggressive.

The key to keeping your fish happy and healthy is to reduce stress and one of the easiest ways to do so is to ensure that all of your fish get along. Choose carefully when purchasing the fish for your aquarium and use caution when introducing them. Rather than adding your fish all at once, especially when you first start your aquarium, add one species at a time and give each group enough time to adjust to the tank. Adding fish to the tank slowly will also give your filter and the beneficial bacteria in your tank time to adjust and accommodate for the new arrivals.

Maintain the harmony in your tank by keeping both your fish and your aquarium healthy. Adding to your tank an EcoBio-Stone, a product made of natural zeolite, is an easy way to improve water clarity. The stone introduces a colony of beneficial bacteria called bacillus subtillis natto which break down ammonia and nitrify the water in your aquarium, keeping it clean and clear. EcoBio-Block products help to reduce the frequency of necessary water changes and contribute to making your aquarium a more pleasant environment for your fish. When you provide your fish with a healthy environment in which to live and the right tank mates, they are sure to thrive.

Materials Needed:
Plastic embroidery canvas
Scissors
Plastic binding bars

To build a tank divider, measure the width of your aquarium from the front wall to the back, holding the measuring tape against the inside walls of the aquarium. Cut a piece of plastic embroidery canvas to the exact measurement and slide it vertically into the tank. The sides of the canvas should fit snugly against the front and back wall – there should be no gaps through which a betta fish might slip. Trim the top of the embroidery canvas so it sits just below the rim of the tank.

Slide a plastic binding bar onto all four edges of the embroidery canvas, trimming them to the length and width of the canvas. Place the divider back inside the tank to ensure that it fits. If adding the binding bars significantly increases the width of the divider you may need to trim the canvas slightly so that it sits flush with the tank walls.

Build up the substrate against the bottom of the tank divider to remove the possibility that your betta fish can burrow under it to the other side of the tank. If you can, dig a trench in the substrate before sliding the divider into place then fill in the trench once the bottom of the divider sits against the bottom of the tank. Check that the water level in the tank is at least two inches below the top of the divider before introducing your betta fish to their sections of the tank.

Other Considerations for a Divided Tank

While a divided tank is an excellent way to economize your use of tank space in keeping multiple bettas, there are some problems which you will need to address. Plastic embroidery canvas is filled with small holes which allow water to flow from one side of the tank to the other, but whichever side you place the filter on will benefit from higher water quality than the other. You might install your filter as close to the center of the tank as possible or use two smaller filters, one in each corner. Another alternative to this plan is to place a mesh bag full of EcoBio-Pebbles in the section of the tank furthest from the filter. EcoBio-Pebbles are made of porous volcanic rock infused with beneficial bacteria which break down ammonia and help to clarify and purify aquarium water. Once the bacteria have been introduced into your tank through the EcoBio-Pebbles they will multiply and continue to revitalize the water, lessening the frequency of necessary water changes and improving the water quality in your tank. By using EcoBio-Pebbles in your betta tank you can avoid having to purchase a second filter and both sides of the tank will benefit from clear, healthy water.

Keeping goldfish is popular for another reason as well. Watching goldfish swim around in their aquarium is beneficial due to the calming affect it seems to have on the mind. Goldfish keeping is one of the best ways to release stress and eliminate tension from your life. Watching your goldfish grow and live is surely a pleasurable experience.

Goldfish are an interesting species, which can live for as long as thirty years if proper care is taken of them. With so much to gain from goldfish keeping, the least you could do is look after them well.

In spite of the relative ease of goldfish keeping, mistakes are still made from time to time. However, if you take the time to learn the basics of goldfish keeping and the common problems involved, you and your goldfish are on your way to a long, beautiful friendship.

A. There are a few things you should know about goldfish keeping.

One of the first things you should know is that goldfish are dirty little creatures. They eat constantly and regurgitate much of their food as well as creating quite a bit of waste. They also have a habit of plowing up the bottom of their tanks for food, making the water dirty and muddy looking. Dirty water is harmful and often fatal to goldfish due to an increase in toxins and a decrease in oxygen.

Fortunately, products like EcoBio-Block are available to help reduce the amount of care and maintenance involved in providing a proper home for your goldfish. It contains beneficial bacteria living and multiplying in the block, which work to clarify cloudy aquarium water naturally.

It is important to understand that a goldfish aquarium is a delicate eco- system. Take your time as well as great care when you are setting up your goldfish’s home. You must ensure a proper balance of microorganisms to maintain a healthy aquarium for your beloved goldfish.

The water in your goldfish aquarium should be completely clean in addition to being well-oxygenated. You will need a good filter as well as an air pump. The oxygen in the aquarium will not only help your goldfish, but also the beneficial bacteria that the EcoBio-Block disperses into the water approximately every half-hour.

B. Illness Is Inevitable

Keeping goldfish healthy is generally obtainable through basic aquarium management. All you have to do is make sure the water is clean, appropriately oxygenated and maintaining a proper temperature. Giving your goldfish a good home and feeding it correctly is usually enough to avoid major problems.

However, even in the most diligently managed aquariums, goldfish do get sick from time to time. Fortunately, it is easy to recognize when something is wrong with your goldfish. Here is a list of some of the most common goldfish problems:

• Ichtyopthirius – bad water can lead to this parasite, which causes small salt-like grain on the fins, gills or skin
• Fin Rot – parts of your goldfish’s tails and fins will appear to be wasting away
• Fungus – a bacterial infection that strikes weak or injured goldfish in a poorly maintained aquarium
• Constipation – can occur from improper feeding

If left untreated, these problems may be fatal to your goldfish. However, if you notice something is wrong with your goldfish and it is promptly treated with the right care, goldfish will usually make a full recovery.

A common misconception many people have regarding winterizing your pond is that running water will somehow hurt your fish.  It’s important to keep in mind that fish are cold-blooded creatures and that they will adapt to whatever the water temperature is. In addition, running water freezes more slowly than still water, so you can run your waterfall well into winter as long as you take some precautions to make sure that your waterfall or filter outlet flow does not freeze and divert water out of the pond.

To help your fish survive during the winter, start introducing a vitamin and mineral supplement to their diet during the fall. This will help them to build up their immune systems and add the needed fat in order for them to make it through their hibernation cycles.

If the water temperature drops below 50 degrees, do not feed your fish. They go into a kind of hibernation and their bodies cannot absorb food at this time.

Many people think that a pond de-icer (heater) will help to protect their fish during the winter. A de-icer can help with the buildup of carbon dioxide under the surface of the ice that forms on the water.

A better option for winterizing your pond for your fish is to use an aerator/circulator decontaminator unit.  By using it all year round, you will greatly enhance the overall biological process by keeping algae at bay, plus you will continuously supply dissolved oxygen to the pond during the winter via the air bubbles that the decontaminator unit provides.

If you are using the EcoBio-Block line of products to help prevent ammonia build-up and to increase the presence of good bacteria that will keep the water clean and healthy for your fish, rest assured that the bacteria in the block will simply hibernate along with your fish until warmer weather when it will start producing again just when your pond is starting to need it.

Tropical plants will not make it through the winter if they are left in your pond. When the water temperature falls under 60 degrees Fahrenheit, they should be removed. Depending on the species of plant, you could keep them in your house as house plants or consider them as annuals and purchase new ones to fill your pond the following spring.

If you have an out-of-the pond biological filter, you can let it continue to run until there is a chance that the outlet water flow can freeze and divert water from the pond. If/when you shut it down, let the water drain via the siphon effect or via the drain plug.  Only clean the leaves and dead plant matter from it. If you have an in-the pond biological filter, remove it before winter begins. If you have a non-oil filled pump, you can leave it on during the winter so long as it is well under where the ice will form.

During the winter, you should check to make sure that everything is going well. If your pond has completely frozen over, NEVER break the ice by pounding on it. Keep in mind that the decontaminator unit is still providing oxygen and removing toxicants for your fish under the ice. To reopen the hole in the ice, either use a de-icer or pour hot water over a section of the ice until the hole reopens.

Preparing ahead of time to winterize your pond for your fish and plants can ensure that they will survive the winter and that the pond will be in optimal condition for them when they come out again in the spring.