Quarantine tank with EcoBio-Stone S

When one of your fish falls ill it may only be a matter of time before the disease spreads to your other tank inhabitants. For this reason it is extremely important for you to keep an eye out for the early symptoms of disease. If you catch the disease early enough you will be able to quarantine the sick fish in a hospital tank to ensure a speedy recovery and to prevent your other fish from falling ill. A hospital tank, or quarantine tank, is a fairly basic set-up and it is generally easy to maintain.

Setting Up the Tank

Because you will usually keep just one fish in the hospital tank at a time it does not need to be large – 10 gallons is a sufficient size. The bottom of the tank should be kept bare of gravel or other substrate to facilitate easy cleaning and to prevent the build-up of disease-harboring bacteria. Do not over-decorate the tank – simply provide a few plants or an overturned terra cotta pot to give your fish places to hide. Hospital tanks have very few requirements other than clean water and adequate filtration but you need to choose wisely when selecting a filter for your tank. Power filters that have a low setting are generally recommended for hospital tanks because they provide both chemical and mechanical filtration without creating a current powerful enough to disturb your sick fish.

Using a Hospital Tank

When you notice the symptoms of disease beginning to manifest in your tank, set up your hospital tank as quickly as possible. Use as much water from the original tank as you can when filling the hospital tank in order to decrease the amount of stress your fish experience in switching tanks. Use an in-tank thermometer to monitor and control the water temperature in the tank and administer whatever medications your fish require on a regular basis.

Other Tips for Hospital Tanks

If you have a large tank with many fish, it may be wise to set up a permanent hospital tank. By doing this you can rest assured that if one of your fish happens to fall ill you will not be putting the rest of your fish at risk by delaying the removal of the sick fish from the tank. A hospital tank can also be used as a quarantine tank when you bring new fish home from the pet store. To prevent the spread of disease you should always quarantine new fish for at least seven days. This will ensure that the new fish do not pass an existing illness on to your other fish.

A quick and easy way to ensure that the water in your hospital tank stays clean and clear is to use an EcoBio-Stone. EcoBio-Stones are made from porous volcanic rock and cement block and they are infused with nutrients and beneficial bacteria designed to keep your tank healthy. Once introduced into your tank, these beneficial bacteria will multiply and work to speed up the nitrogen cycle, keeping your tank water clean and clear. Not only do EcoBi0-Block products help keep your tank healthy, they also reduce the amount of routine maintenance required.

No matter how careful you are in caring for your aquarium fish, the chances are good that you will eventually experience the outbreak of some kind of disease. By acting quickly in setting up and utilizing a hospital tank, however, you can effectively curtail the spread of this disease. Learning how to set up a hospital tank, and then putting that knowledge to use, is a simple way to ensure that your sick fish recover quickly and your other fish do not fall ill.

Platy fry

While several species of freshwater aquarium fish breed readily under a variety of circumstances, some have specific requirements that must be met before they are likely to spawn. The basics of breeding, however, are fairly uniform among most species of freshwater aquarium fish. The first thing you must do is to select a breeding pair, or a trio for some species, and quarantine them in a breeding tank. Once you have done so, you can begin the process of conditioning your fish for breeding.

Setting Up a Breeding Tank

The size of the breeding tank should depend on the size of the fish, but ten to twenty gallons is usually sufficient. The tank should be bare-bottomed in order to make it easier to clean and it should be decorated sparsely. It is wise to provide a few hiding places like large rocks or terra cotta pots in the event that the female needs a place to rest and recover from the male’s aggressive advances. Some species – egg-layers in particular – prefer a breeding tank stocked with live plants on which they will deposit their eggs.

Encouraging Your Fish to Spawn

Maintaining a steady temperature and providing a healthy, varied diet are two of the most important elements in encouraging your fish to spawn. The temperature of the breeding tank should be determined by the breed of fish but, in many cases, slowly raising the temperature encourages breeding behavior. In some species, however, the opposite is true. Corydoras catfish, for example, typically spawn after a recent rainfall has lowered the temperature in their native habitat, the Amazon River.

Offer your fish a varied diet consisting of small amounts of live, frozen, flake and pellets foods several times a day in order to condition them for breeding. After a few days you should begin to notice courtship and spawning behavior. The male of the species will often chase the female around the tank and some fish, like betta fish, will prepare a bubble nest and collect the eggs after spawning has occurred.

Caring for Fry

Some species of fish, such as cichlids, care for their fry after they have hatched but most freshwater fish are more likely to eat their own young. This being the case, it is wise to remove the parents from the breeding tank as soon as possible after spawning has occurred. If you are breeding an egg-laying species, dose the tank with methylene blue to prevent fungus from killing the eggs. Install a sponge filter in the corner of the tank to provide filtration without putting the fry at risk for being sucked up an intake valve.

For the first few days after hatching, the fry of most egg-laying species will subsist on the remainder of their yolk sacs. The fry of live-bearing species, however, should be started on a diet of newly hatched brine shrimp or a liquid fry food such as infusoria. During the first few weeks after hatching it is important to feed the fry small amounts several times a day. Once they have tripled in size you may begin to feed them finely crushed flake foods and, as they continue to grow, move them to a larger tank.

Tips for Breeding Success

If your fish are not in prime condition, they will be unlikely to spawn. In addition to a healthy diet, clean water is essential to the health and well-being of your fish. Establishing a colony of beneficial bacteria in your tank is one of the best ways to keep the water quality in your tank high. Install an EcoBio-Stone to begin a colony of nitrifying bacteria that will help to remove odor, break down wastes, and keep the water clear. EcoBio-Stones are made of natural volcanic rock infused with beneficial bacteria that will multiply readily upon being introduced into your tank. Not only is this product perfect for the breeding tank, but it can also be used in fry tanks where power filters are not recommended due to the danger they pose toward delicate fry.

Community fish tank

Regarding tropical fish compatibility, there are three major categories into which most species of fish fall: community; semi-aggressive and aggressive. Community fish are those species which are typically peaceful and get along well with most other fish. Danios, tetras, guppies, swordtails, platys and mollies are community fish that not only do well with a variety of other species but thrive best in groups, or schools, made up of their own species.

Semi-aggressive tropical fish are those which have a tendency to be territorial but generally tolerate community fish. Some examples of fish belonging to this category include barbs, gouramis, eels, loaches and sharks. In most cases, these species can co-exist happily with other species provided there is enough space in the tank to reduce the need of the semi-aggressive fish to defend its territory. Breeding is another major concern which factors into how well one fish will get along with another. Semi-aggressive and aggressive fish should be limited to one male of the species per tank. If two males of the same species are kept in one tank, the stronger male is likely to torment the other until it falls ill and dies.

Some of the most aggressive species of tropical fish are also the largest. Oscars and cichlids are the most common species belonging to this category and they do best when kept in large tanks with few other fish. Some species of cichlid can be extremely aggressive so it is important that you do your research or consult a professional at your local aquarium supply store before adding a cichlid to your aquarium. When they are small, plecostomus are generally fairly peaceful but medium and large plecostumus can be also very territorial and aggressive.

The key to keeping your fish happy and healthy is to reduce stress and one of the easiest ways to do so is to ensure that all of your fish get along. Choose carefully when purchasing the fish for your aquarium and use caution when introducing them. Rather than adding your fish all at once, especially when you first start your aquarium, add one species at a time and give each group enough time to adjust to the tank. Adding fish to the tank slowly will also give your filter and the beneficial bacteria in your tank time to adjust and accommodate for the new arrivals.

Maintain the harmony in your tank by keeping both your fish and your aquarium healthy. Adding to your tank an EcoBio-Stone, a product made of natural zeolite, is an easy way to improve water clarity. The stone introduces a colony of beneficial bacteria called bacillus subtillis natto which break down ammonia and nitrify the water in your aquarium, keeping it clean and clear. EcoBio-Block products help to reduce the frequency of necessary water changes and contribute to making your aquarium a more pleasant environment for your fish. When you provide your fish with a healthy environment in which to live and the right tank mates, they are sure to thrive.

Materials Needed:
Plastic embroidery canvas
Scissors
Plastic binding bars

To build a tank divider, measure the width of your aquarium from the front wall to the back, holding the measuring tape against the inside walls of the aquarium. Cut a piece of plastic embroidery canvas to the exact measurement and slide it vertically into the tank. The sides of the canvas should fit snugly against the front and back wall – there should be no gaps through which a betta fish might slip. Trim the top of the embroidery canvas so it sits just below the rim of the tank.

Slide a plastic binding bar onto all four edges of the embroidery canvas, trimming them to the length and width of the canvas. Place the divider back inside the tank to ensure that it fits. If adding the binding bars significantly increases the width of the divider you may need to trim the canvas slightly so that it sits flush with the tank walls.

Build up the substrate against the bottom of the tank divider to remove the possibility that your betta fish can burrow under it to the other side of the tank. If you can, dig a trench in the substrate before sliding the divider into place then fill in the trench once the bottom of the divider sits against the bottom of the tank. Check that the water level in the tank is at least two inches below the top of the divider before introducing your betta fish to their sections of the tank.

Other Considerations for a Divided Tank

While a divided tank is an excellent way to economize your use of tank space in keeping multiple bettas, there are some problems which you will need to address. Plastic embroidery canvas is filled with small holes which allow water to flow from one side of the tank to the other, but whichever side you place the filter on will benefit from higher water quality than the other. You might install your filter as close to the center of the tank as possible or use two smaller filters, one in each corner. Another alternative to this plan is to place a mesh bag full of EcoBio-Pebbles in the section of the tank furthest from the filter. EcoBio-Pebbles are made of porous volcanic rock infused with beneficial bacteria which break down ammonia and help to clarify and purify aquarium water. Once the bacteria have been introduced into your tank through the EcoBio-Pebbles they will multiply and continue to revitalize the water, lessening the frequency of necessary water changes and improving the water quality in your tank. By using EcoBio-Pebbles in your betta tank you can avoid having to purchase a second filter and both sides of the tank will benefit from clear, healthy water.

Keeping goldfish is popular for another reason as well. Watching goldfish swim around in their aquarium is beneficial due to the calming affect it seems to have on the mind. Goldfish keeping is one of the best ways to release stress and eliminate tension from your life. Watching your goldfish grow and live is surely a pleasurable experience.

Goldfish are an interesting species, which can live for as long as thirty years if proper care is taken of them. With so much to gain from goldfish keeping, the least you could do is look after them well.

In spite of the relative ease of goldfish keeping, mistakes are still made from time to time. However, if you take the time to learn the basics of goldfish keeping and the common problems involved, you and your goldfish are on your way to a long, beautiful friendship.

A. There are a few things you should know about goldfish keeping.

One of the first things you should know is that goldfish are dirty little creatures. They eat constantly and regurgitate much of their food as well as creating quite a bit of waste. They also have a habit of plowing up the bottom of their tanks for food, making the water dirty and muddy looking. Dirty water is harmful and often fatal to goldfish due to an increase in toxins and a decrease in oxygen.

Fortunately, products like EcoBio-Block are available to help reduce the amount of care and maintenance involved in providing a proper home for your goldfish. It contains beneficial bacteria living and multiplying in the block, which work to clarify cloudy aquarium water naturally.

It is important to understand that a goldfish aquarium is a delicate eco- system. Take your time as well as great care when you are setting up your goldfish’s home. You must ensure a proper balance of microorganisms to maintain a healthy aquarium for your beloved goldfish.

The water in your goldfish aquarium should be completely clean in addition to being well-oxygenated. You will need a good filter as well as an air pump. The oxygen in the aquarium will not only help your goldfish, but also the beneficial bacteria that the EcoBio-Block disperses into the water approximately every half-hour.

B. Illness Is Inevitable

Keeping goldfish healthy is generally obtainable through basic aquarium management. All you have to do is make sure the water is clean, appropriately oxygenated and maintaining a proper temperature. Giving your goldfish a good home and feeding it correctly is usually enough to avoid major problems.

However, even in the most diligently managed aquariums, goldfish do get sick from time to time. Fortunately, it is easy to recognize when something is wrong with your goldfish. Here is a list of some of the most common goldfish problems:

• Ichtyopthirius – bad water can lead to this parasite, which causes small salt-like grain on the fins, gills or skin
• Fin Rot – parts of your goldfish’s tails and fins will appear to be wasting away
• Fungus – a bacterial infection that strikes weak or injured goldfish in a poorly maintained aquarium
• Constipation – can occur from improper feeding

If left untreated, these problems may be fatal to your goldfish. However, if you notice something is wrong with your goldfish and it is promptly treated with the right care, goldfish will usually make a full recovery.

A common misconception many people have regarding winterizing your pond is that running water will somehow hurt your fish.  It’s important to keep in mind that fish are cold-blooded creatures and that they will adapt to whatever the water temperature is. In addition, running water freezes more slowly than still water, so you can run your waterfall well into winter as long as you take some precautions to make sure that your waterfall or filter outlet flow does not freeze and divert water out of the pond.

To help your fish survive during the winter, start introducing a vitamin and mineral supplement to their diet during the fall. This will help them to build up their immune systems and add the needed fat in order for them to make it through their hibernation cycles.

If the water temperature drops below 50 degrees, do not feed your fish. They go into a kind of hibernation and their bodies cannot absorb food at this time.

Many people think that a pond de-icer (heater) will help to protect their fish during the winter. A de-icer can help with the buildup of carbon dioxide under the surface of the ice that forms on the water.

A better option for winterizing your pond for your fish is to use an aerator/circulator decontaminator unit.  By using it all year round, you will greatly enhance the overall biological process by keeping algae at bay, plus you will continuously supply dissolved oxygen to the pond during the winter via the air bubbles that the decontaminator unit provides.

If you are using the EcoBio-Block line of products to help prevent ammonia build-up and to increase the presence of good bacteria that will keep the water clean and healthy for your fish, rest assured that the bacteria in the block will simply hibernate along with your fish until warmer weather when it will start producing again just when your pond is starting to need it.

Tropical plants will not make it through the winter if they are left in your pond. When the water temperature falls under 60 degrees Fahrenheit, they should be removed. Depending on the species of plant, you could keep them in your house as house plants or consider them as annuals and purchase new ones to fill your pond the following spring.

If you have an out-of-the pond biological filter, you can let it continue to run until there is a chance that the outlet water flow can freeze and divert water from the pond. If/when you shut it down, let the water drain via the siphon effect or via the drain plug.  Only clean the leaves and dead plant matter from it. If you have an in-the pond biological filter, remove it before winter begins. If you have a non-oil filled pump, you can leave it on during the winter so long as it is well under where the ice will form.

During the winter, you should check to make sure that everything is going well. If your pond has completely frozen over, NEVER break the ice by pounding on it. Keep in mind that the decontaminator unit is still providing oxygen and removing toxicants for your fish under the ice. To reopen the hole in the ice, either use a de-icer or pour hot water over a section of the ice until the hole reopens.

Preparing ahead of time to winterize your pond for your fish and plants can ensure that they will survive the winter and that the pond will be in optimal condition for them when they come out again in the spring.

Clownfish in a quarantine tank

If you have saltwater tropical fish, it is virtually essential that you have a quarantine tank for them. Why? This is because most saltwater tropical fish are mostly wild and are not used to captivity when they are caught. As a result, they are more susceptible to diseases than their freshwater counterparts. Therefore, a quarantine tank will be quite helpful for treating sick saltwater tropical fish, as just one diseased fish in an aquarium tank full of fish can wipe out the entire fish population in that tank.

In addition to a quarantine tank being more convenient for saltwater fish keepers to treat their diseased tropical fish, most saltwater fish keepers will also have invertebrates and live rock in their tanks that they will not want to cover with the harsh medicines that will be needed to treat their diseased tropical fish. Some harsh medicines can even wipe out all invertebrates in an aquarium tank, so it is especially vital to have a quarantine tank ready for your saltwater tropical fish when they contract a disease or infection.

It is relatively simple to set up a quarantine tank. A tank size of 10-20 gallons will be sufficient for most people, though if you have larger fish, you can turn a larger tank into a quarantine tank as well. The main items you will need for your quarantine tank are the following items:

• Some type of filtration.
• A heater.
• A powerhead and/or airstone to increase surface agitation.
• Aquarium test kits to test for nitrate, nitrite, ammonia, and pH levels.
• A fish net, as you should use a different net for your quarantine tank than you do for your main tank.

You should first fill the quarantine tank with water from your main tank and then turn on your quarantine tank.

When you place newly acquired saltwater fish in a quarantine tank, you should monitor them closely for a period of two to three weeks. Monitor the water conditions with your test kits and see if there are any bacterial infections or parasites present.

If your newly acquired saltwater fish do contract something, youíll need to treat them with the appropriate medication and keep them in the quarantine tank for an additional two weeks to ensure that you have eradicated the infection or parasite. If no problems are present after those two weeks, then you can acclimate them to the main tank and introduce them to the other fish.

If your saltwater tropical fish develop an infection or disease while in the main tank, net them and place them into the quarantine tank. This is why it’s important to use water from your main tank in the quarantine tank, you don’t have to acclimate them to the quarantine tank. Diagnose the infection or disease, treat them accordingly, then hold the fish in the quarantine tank an extra week to ensure that the fish have been completely treated before introducing them back into the main tank.

To help keep your tanks clean and risk of infection low, use the EcoBio-Block line of products in your tanks. EcoBio-Blocks are available in different sizes to keep your home aquariums clean and healthy for your fish. Be careful not to put these blocks in your quarantine tank, however; as the beneficial bacteria in the Blocks may not survive any medication necessary for treating your fish.

It’s important for owners of saltwater tropical fish to have a ready supply of saltwater on hand in case of an emergency. You don’t want to have to mix up a batch of saltwater in the middle of an emergency. Additionally, freshly mixed saltwater can be quite toxic to many saltwater tropical fish, as well as be very difficult to get accurate readings of the water with your hydrometer. Therefore, you should always have a supply of extra saltwater on hand just in case.

As you can see, having saltwater tropical fish virtually necessitates having a quarantine tank for treating your fish when they contract a disease or infection. Failure to act in removing them from the fish population could wipe out your entire population. Additionally, the treatments used to treat these diseases and infections could have adverse effects on invertebrates and/or live rocks you have in your tank.  It’s relatively easy to create a quarantine tank to help treat your fish when they become ill.  Having an additional supply of saltwater on hand is also good to deal with emergencies when they occur. By following the information here, you can increase the chances that your saltwater tropical fish will live long, healthy lives.

One type of tropical fish disease is ammonia poisoning.  As the name implies, there is too high a level of ammonia in your tank.  The main symptoms of ammonia poisoning are your fish turning a red-lilac color and they’re floating below the surface panting for air.

The remedy for ammonia poisoning is relatively simple to implement, but it’s important to do this right away or your fish’s health may be compromised on a long-term basis.  You need to understand the cycling process of a new tank to limit the ammonia level of the water, as well as to maintain the pH levels and water temperature of the tank.

An additional help is the EcoBio-Block, which can be very effective in keeping your tank from experiencing ammonia spikes that can cause harm to your fish.

Yet, another type of tropical fish disease is cataracts.  Eye-related infections are often caused by the level of waste in your tank.  Cataracts are usually just fungal growths covering the eyes.  Normal aquarium fungicide is usually a very effective form of treatment for cataracts.

To keep your fish from getting cataracts, it’s important to keep the levels of ammonia and nitrate at acceptable levels.  You can also use the EcoBio-Block products to effectively keep ammonia and nitrate levels at levels that are safe for your fish.

Corneybacteriosis is commonly referred to as bulging eyes because it looks like the fish who have corneybacteriosis have bulging eyes.  Additionally, these fish have swelling in their heads.

Corneybacteriosis is usually caused by a large amount of waste in the tank, which is often caused by having too many fish in the tank.  Keeping the level of waste at a low level is the best defense against your fish contracting corneybacteriosis.  Utilizing EcoBio-Blocks in your tank can establish the nitrogen cycle and keep your water clean and pure, thereby reducing the chances of your fish contracting corneybacteriosis.

Goldfish with dropsy

Another common tropical fish disease is dropsy.  Dropsy makes your fish look bloated and their scales appear to be bursting outward.  Dropsy is usually caused by an internal bacterial infection.

It is important to treat dropsy as quickly as possible; otherwise, further internal damage to your fish could be the result.  Anti-bacterial medication can help to treat the infection, along with raising the aquarium water temperature slightly over the next few weeks.

Ichthyophthiriasis, or what is commonly known as ich, ich is a type of tropical fish disease that is indicated by small white spots covering the fish’s body and fins.  A type of parasite is responsible for causing ich.

Cichlid with ich

Treatment for ich involves gradually raising the water temperature to prevent the spread of the parasites that cause ich.  Once the water becomes clear again, then lower the water temperature back to its previous level.  Anti-ich medication can also be helpful, as this will break the cycle of ich and treat the disease in the water.

As you can see, the main keys to preventing tropical fish diseases is paying attention to your fish and their normal appearances, keeping your aquarium’s ammonia and nitrate levels at acceptable levels, and keeping your water clear. Utilizing the line of Eco-Bio Block products (which need to be removed when using medications), can speed up the nitrogen cycle, minimize the number of times you need to change the aquarium water, and revitalize and clarify the water to avoid tropical fish diseases.

The condition of the pet store itself can give you a good idea as to whether or not the fish they sell are healthy. If it is cluttered, or has a funky odor, the odds are good that the fish will not be bursting with good health. Take a look at the fish tanks in the store. If they are dirty, with cloudy water or algae on the sides, you do not want to purchase any fish! If you see many dead fish, any fish you buy from this merchant will more than likely die as well, for there is obviously some sort of fish disease being passed from one fish to another.

Let’s say you leave this pet store and go to another one in search of your new fish. You walk in, and the surroundings seem to be much cleaner and more orderly than the previous pet store. That’s a good sign, but you also need to take some time to watch the fish as they swim around in their tanks. Watch how they interact with their tank mates. Do any of the fish seem to be sluggish, swimming slowly while other fish zip around them effortlessly? If so, these fish are probably sick, and may soon infect the other fish in the tank.

Spend some time observing the fins on fish that otherwise seem to be healthy. Do you see any tears on the fins? If there are more than one or two tears, they could be an indication of stress or even sickness. Other fish will often bully fish who are becoming weak, which causes the excessive tearing of the fins. The uninitiated may see this bullying in action, feel sorry for the fish, and buy it to rescue it from a bad situation. Don’t make this mistake!

You will also want to make sure to look at the body of the fish you are interested in buying. If you see many missing scales, any sores or odd growths, you are probably looking at a sick fish. If the fish in the tank seem to be sprinkled with tiny white spots, they are suffering from a sick disease known as Ichthyophthirius Multifiliis, or Ich for short. Many people also call this disease Ick. Ich is caused by a protozoan, and is a common fish disease that can be hard to get rid of. Needless to say, if you take home a fish with Ich, your other fish will become infected as well. Take note of the eyes of the fish. They should not be cloudy or bulge out.

Once you get home with your healthy fish, you will want to keep them that way. One of the simplest methods of keeping a fish healthy is making sure their environment is also clean. Partial water changes are usually what are necessary to keep the water in an aquarium clean and the water clear. Instead of having to set aside time out of your busy schedule to complete this necessary task, why not try EcoBio-Block Products?

The EcoBio-Stone sits unobtrusively on the bottom of your aquarium. It is infused with friendly bacteria. These bacteria will keep your water healthy and crystal clear for up to two years. Using one of EcoBio-Block Products is an easy method to make sure that the water in your aquarium is low maintenance.

Betta Fish

If you have been in a pet store or any type of store that sells live pet fish, you have probably seen a display of small glass or plastic bowls or containers in the fish department. A closer look will reveal that each bowl or container holds a brightly colored fish with beautiful long, flowing fins. A nearby sign tells you that these are male Betta fish.

Betta Fish have the scientific name of Betta splendens, and are also known as Siamese Fighting Fish. The Betta originated in Thailand, and has been selectively bred for a long period of time in that country as well as in Southeast Asia. The goal of these breeders is to produce Betta fish that have stamina as well as the aggressive nature needed for fighting. Fighting ability is prized in the Betta, especially in their native countries, where people enjoy gambling on which male Betta will win a bout.

Betta Fish usually live for two or three years, with some reaching the age of five. The male Betta is the sex commonly kept as a pet. Female Bettas are smaller and have shorter fins than the males, although they do retain the gorgeous coloration that Bettas are noted for. Females also do not usually have the confrontational nature attributed to males. It is not unusual to see males only for sale in a pet shop, which is a shame. Female Bettas make delightful pets with great personalities, which is probably why more and more stores have decided to add the female to their inventory.

It is understood that you should not attempt to keep a male and a female Betta together full time. Females can be just as spunky as the males, and a fight could ensue unless it is breeding season. When the male Betta builds what is known as a bubble nest, he is trying to attract a female for breeding. If the female Betta is introduced to the tank when the nest is visible, breeding can take place. The bubbles are fashioned out of mucus, and are sticky. This allows the female’s eggs to stay in the nest.

Betta fish need a diet that is high in protein, but can get tired of eating the same food day after day. The key here is variety. There are freeze-dried products such as brine shrimp that are highly suitable for Bettas. If you should notice that your Betta is having trouble keeping his balance in the water, he could very well be constipated. Feeding tiny bits of a cooked pea over a period of one to two days is usually sufficient to banish this problem.

Many people keep their Betta in a large fish bowl or tank without any type of filtration. Unlike other commonly kept aquarium fish, the Betta does not need a filter to breathe. Nature has equipped the Betta with a labyrinth organ that allows them to get oxygen from the air above the surface of the water. If you do decide to use a filter in your Betta tank, make sure that the current from the filter is not too strong. Bettas detest the moving water that filtration creates, and a strong current can negatively affect their health.

These fish enjoy a water temperature of 78 to 80 degrees. A small, 25 watt heater can be used in Betta tanks that hold about a gallon of water. Larger tanks can of course use larger heaters. If you are keeping your Betta in a smaller tank or bowl, try to situate it in a warm room beneath a light so that the heat from the bulb can help heat the water.

You should clean your Betta bowl or tank on a weekly basis. Seasoned Betta owners will do a partial water change, removing around 20 to 30 percent of the water. Never change all of the water at once, as the shock can kill your Betta. Cloudy water can be a problem in Betta tanks. There are many remedies for this on the market, but with each of them, fully changing the water is necessary after treatment. Instead of using one of these remedies, why not use an EcoBio-Stone S to keep your Betta water clear as crystal?

The EcoBio Block family of products includes the EcoBio-Stone S and EcoBio-Pebbles, which are perfect for a small Betta tank or bowl. What do these stone do? They are infused with friendly bacteria, which reproduce for two years or longer. These bacteria are responsible for keeping the water in your Betta home clear and clean smelling. By using the EcoBio-Stone, the need for tank maintenance is lessened a great deal. Why not try the EcoBio-Stone S or EcoBio-Pebbles for your Betta today?