Aquarium and Pond Care and EcoBio-Block

One of the main concerns with having tropical fish is the diseases they can contract.  There are many different kinds of tropical fish diseases, most of which have treatments to remedy them.  It is certainly best to have your fish avoid the diseases in the first place, but even with good management, your fish may not always be able to avoid disease.

One type of tropical fish disease is ammonia poisoning.  As the name implies, there is too high a level of ammonia in your tank.  The main symptoms of ammonia poisoning are your fish turning a red-lilac color and they’re floating below the surface panting for air.

The remedy for ammonia poisoning is relatively simple to implement, but it’s important to do this right away or your fish’s health may be compromised on a long-term basis.  You need to understand the cycling process of a new tank to limit the ammonia level of the water, as well as to maintain the pH levels and water temperature of the tank.

An additional help is the EcoBio-Block, which can be very effective in keeping your tank from experiencing ammonia spikes that can cause harm to your fish.

Yet, another type of tropical fish disease is cataracts.  Eye-related infections are often caused by the level of waste in your tank.  Cataracts are usually just fungal growths covering the eyes.  Normal aquarium fungicide is usually a very effective form of treatment for cataracts.

To keep your fish from getting cataracts, it’s important to keep the levels of ammonia and nitrate at acceptable levels.  You can also use the EcoBio-Block products to effectively keep ammonia and nitrate levels at levels that are safe for your fish.

Corneybacteriosis is commonly referred to as bulging eyes because it looks like the fish who have corneybacteriosis have bulging eyes.  Additionally, these fish have swelling in their heads.

Corneybacteriosis is usually caused by a large amount of waste in the tank, which is often caused by having too many fish in the tank.  Keeping the level of waste at a low level is the best defense against your fish contracting corneybacteriosis.  Utilizing EcoBio-Blocks in your tank can establish the nitrogen cycle and keep your water clean and pure, thereby reducing the chances of your fish contracting corneybacteriosis.

Goldfish with dropsy

Another common tropical fish disease is dropsy.  Dropsy makes your fish look bloated and their scales appear to be bursting outward.  Dropsy is usually caused by an internal bacterial infection.

It is important to treat dropsy as quickly as possible; otherwise, further internal damage to your fish could be the result.  Anti-bacterial medication can help to treat the infection, along with raising the aquarium water temperature slightly over the next few weeks.

Ichthyophthiriasis, or what is commonly known as ich, ich is a type of tropical fish disease that is indicated by small white spots covering the fish’s body and fins.  A type of parasite is responsible for causing ich.

Cichlid with ich

Treatment for ich involves gradually raising the water temperature to prevent the spread of the parasites that cause ich.  Once the water becomes clear again, then lower the water temperature back to its previous level.  Anti-ich medication can also be helpful, as this will break the cycle of ich and treat the disease in the water.

As you can see, the main keys to preventing tropical fish diseases is paying attention to your fish and their normal appearances, keeping your aquarium’s ammonia and nitrate levels at acceptable levels, and keeping your water clear. Utilizing the line of Eco-Bio Block products (which need to be removed when using medications), can speed up the nitrogen cycle, minimize the number of times you need to change the aquarium water, and revitalize and clarify the water to avoid tropical fish diseases.

It is always exciting to go to a pet shop and choose new fish for your aquarium, especially if you are new to the hobby of keeping fish. Unfortunately, if you do not know how to choose healthy fish, you may face the unwelcome dilemma of death for your chosen fish as well as the other fish in your aquarium. The best way to prevent this is to learn what healthy fish look and act like before you bring them home.

The condition of the pet store itself can give you a good idea as to whether or not the fish they sell are healthy. If it is cluttered, or has a funky odor, the odds are good that the fish will not be bursting with good health. Take a look at the fish tanks in the store. If they are dirty, with cloudy water or algae on the sides, you do not want to purchase any fish! If you see many dead fish, any fish you buy from this merchant will more than likely die as well, for there is obviously some sort of fish disease being passed from one fish to another.

Let’s say you leave this pet store and go to another one in search of your new fish. You walk in, and the surroundings seem to be much cleaner and more orderly than the previous pet store. That’s a good sign, but you also need to take some time to watch the fish as they swim around in their tanks. Watch how they interact with their tank mates. Do any of the fish seem to be sluggish, swimming slowly while other fish zip around them effortlessly? If so, these fish are probably sick, and may soon infect the other fish in the tank.

Spend some time observing the fins on fish that otherwise seem to be healthy. Do you see any tears on the fins? If there are more than one or two tears, they could be an indication of stress or even sickness. Other fish will often bully fish who are becoming weak, which causes the excessive tearing of the fins. The uninitiated may see this bullying in action, feel sorry for the fish, and buy it to rescue it from a bad situation. Don’t make this mistake!

You will also want to make sure to look at the body of the fish you are interested in buying. If you see many missing scales, any sores or odd growths, you are probably looking at a sick fish. If the fish in the tank seem to be sprinkled with tiny white spots, they are suffering from a sick disease known as Ichthyophthirius Multifiliis, or Ich for short. Many people also call this disease Ick. Ich is caused by a protozoan, and is a common fish disease that can be hard to get rid of. Needless to say, if you take home a fish with Ich, your other fish will become infected as well. Take note of the eyes of the fish. They should not be cloudy or bulge out.

Once you get home with your healthy fish, you will want to keep them that way. One of the simplest methods of keeping a fish healthy is making sure their environment is also clean. Partial water changes are usually what are necessary to keep the water in an aquarium clean and the water clear. Instead of having to set aside time out of your busy schedule to complete this necessary task, why not try EcoBio-Block Products?

The EcoBio-Stone sits unobtrusively on the bottom of your aquarium. It is infused with friendly bacteria. These bacteria will keep your water healthy and crystal clear for up to two years. Using one of EcoBio-Block Products is an easy method to make sure that the water in your aquarium is low maintenance.

Betta Fish

If you have been in a pet store or any type of store that sells live pet fish, you have probably seen a display of small glass or plastic bowls or containers in the fish department. A closer look will reveal that each bowl or container holds a brightly colored fish with beautiful long, flowing fins. A nearby sign tells you that these are male Betta fish.

Betta Fish have the scientific name of Betta splendens, and are also known as Siamese Fighting Fish. The Betta originated in Thailand, and has been selectively bred for a long period of time in that country as well as in Southeast Asia. The goal of these breeders is to produce Betta fish that have stamina as well as the aggressive nature needed for fighting. Fighting ability is prized in the Betta, especially in their native countries, where people enjoy gambling on which male Betta will win a bout.

Betta Fish usually live for two or three years, with some reaching the age of five. The male Betta is the sex commonly kept as a pet. Female Bettas are smaller and have shorter fins than the males, although they do retain the gorgeous coloration that Bettas are noted for. Females also do not usually have the confrontational nature attributed to males. It is not unusual to see males only for sale in a pet shop, which is a shame. Female Bettas make delightful pets with great personalities, which is probably why more and more stores have decided to add the female to their inventory.

It is understood that you should not attempt to keep a male and a female Betta together full time. Females can be just as spunky as the males, and a fight could ensue unless it is breeding season. When the male Betta builds what is known as a bubble nest, he is trying to attract a female for breeding. If the female Betta is introduced to the tank when the nest is visible, breeding can take place. The bubbles are fashioned out of mucus, and are sticky. This allows the female’s eggs to stay in the nest.

Betta fish need a diet that is high in protein, but can get tired of eating the same food day after day. The key here is variety. There are freeze-dried products such as brine shrimp that are highly suitable for Bettas. If you should notice that your Betta is having trouble keeping his balance in the water, he could very well be constipated. Feeding tiny bits of a cooked pea over a period of one to two days is usually sufficient to banish this problem.

Many people keep their Betta in a large fish bowl or tank without any type of filtration. Unlike other commonly kept aquarium fish, the Betta does not need a filter to breathe. Nature has equipped the Betta with a labyrinth organ that allows them to get oxygen from the air above the surface of the water. If you do decide to use a filter in your Betta tank, make sure that the current from the filter is not too strong. Bettas detest the moving water that filtration creates, and a strong current can negatively affect their health.

These fish enjoy a water temperature of 78 to 80 degrees. A small, 25 watt heater can be used in Betta tanks that hold about a gallon of water. Larger tanks can of course use larger heaters. If you are keeping your Betta in a smaller tank or bowl, try to situate it in a warm room beneath a light so that the heat from the bulb can help heat the water.

You should clean your Betta bowl or tank on a weekly basis. Seasoned Betta owners will do a partial water change, removing around 20 to 30 percent of the water. Never change all of the water at once, as the shock can kill your Betta. Cloudy water can be a problem in Betta tanks. There are many remedies for this on the market, but with each of them, fully changing the water is necessary after treatment. Instead of using one of these remedies, why not use an EcoBio-Stone S to keep your Betta water clear as crystal?

The EcoBio Block family of products includes the EcoBio-Stone S and EcoBio-Pebbles, which are perfect for a small Betta tank or bowl. What do these stone do? They are infused with friendly bacteria, which reproduce for two years or longer. These bacteria are responsible for keeping the water in your Betta home clear and clean smelling. By using the EcoBio-Stone, the need for tank maintenance is lessened a great deal. Why not try the EcoBio-Stone S or EcoBio-Pebbles for your Betta today?

African Cichlid

If you are ready for something a little different and enjoy keeping freshwater fish, an African Cichlid aquarium could be for you. These beautifully patterned and colored finned friends have many admirers. Their distinctive personalities and innate intelligence have a way of endearing these fish to their owners. However, if you have never kept this variety of fish, you owe it to yourself to learn about their habits and needs while planning your African Cichlid aquarium.

Many things make this species of fish very special. African Cichlids are usually a very hardy fish that grow very fast, especially when compared to the growth rate of other fish species. However, the very thing that makes the African Cichlid special is what causes the need for would-be owners to plan carefully before purchasing their fish. A fish that grows as large as fast as an Oscar or a Jack Dempsey deserves a home that it will not outgrow!

You should definitely plan to buy the largest aquarium you can afford if you are planning to keep Cichlids. If the aquarium that you can see in your mind’s eye is a heavily planted one, you should probably rethink the desire you have to own this type of fish. Cichlids were probably archeologists in another life! They really enjoy digging in any kind of substrate you give them, and can make a big mess out of a carefully planted tank.

An African Cichlid aquarium should instead be outfitted with rock formations, overturned clay pots, and other places where the fish can hide and feel safe. Most African Cichlids are territorial around other fish to a certain extent. Some of these fish can co-exist in the same aquarium with other Cichlids, while some cannot. Other types of fish should not be housed in the same tank, as the Cichlid can be aggressive with them. It is most common for those who keep Cichlids to have a species-specific aquarium because of this aggressive and territorial nature.

Feeding your African Cichlid can be a bit more complicated than just shaking a few dried fish food flakes into the tank daily. In the wild, these fish are vegetarian as a rule. They will eat brine shrimp and daphnia as part of their staple diet, and will also nibble at bloodworms, though the latter are a little too rich for them.

A good Cichlid pellet along with a flaked vegetable-based food containing spirulina and kelp will keep your fish active and healthy. You can also feed African Cichlids human foods such as cooked peas minus their shell, spinach, zucchini, and dark green leaf lettuces like romaine.

You will definitely want to pay attention to the water quality in your African Cichlid aquarium. Cichlids prefer a hard, alkaline water pH of around 7, but a higher pH is well tolerated by these sturdy and colorful fish.

An easy way of keeping the aquarium water clean and clear (and your fish healthy!) without having to do frequent water changes and test the water on a regular basis, is with the use of an EcoBio-Stone, or Block. Your choice of product will depend upon the size of your aquarium. All the products in the EcoBio-Block family quickly establish a colony of beneficial bacteria, which break down the toxins which develop with organic waste, into safer by-products. These bacterial and mineral benefits of EcoBio Block products will help make your established African Cichlid aquarium a breeze to maintain.

African Cichlid

by Ruby Bayan

Community Fish Tank

Here’s a candid question from my friend Bob: “I just got a 20-gallon tank and was thinking about putting in about a dozen Neon Tetras, six to eight Mollies, a Plecostomus and perhaps introducing two to three Angelfish afterwards. Is this an acceptable plan?”

My answer was, “Bob, you’re inviting disaster into your aquarium! You will be defying at least four major guidelines in the book of ‘good fishkeeping’!”

Defiance 1: “The one-inch-per-gallon rule is baloney!”

Although not a strict rule, the one-inch-of-fish-per-gallon-of-water guideline is often a takeoff point for fishkeeping hobbyists aspiring for a stable bioload. However, factors like efficient filtration, fast-growing fishes, and aggressive or territorial breeds totally overhaul this “rule” giving rise to setups with more than one inch of fish per gallon, or with just a pair of two-inch fish for a 25-gallon tank.

In Bob’s planned 20-gallon setup, 12 Neons, 8 Mollies, 1 Pleco, and 3 Angels, even if they’re all less than an inch each, will surely overload his tank habitat, no matter how efficient his filtration is. But let’s say that on top of a truly efficient filter, he can be diligent enough to make regular water changes, his next problem will be what water parameters to maintain.

Defiance 2: “What natural habitat? I’ll give them their natural habitat!”

One of the primary objectives of fishkeepers is to provide a habitat that is closest to what the fishes have in the wild. The community that Bob is looking at putting together cannot occur naturally because the fishes he has chosen do not thrive in the same water conditions.

Although all the chosen fishes can be made accustomed to a common water temperature (around 77 degrees F), Neons prefer water that is slightly soft, with pH between 5.0 and 7.0. Mollies, on the other hand, live in slightly hard water with pH of 7.5 to 8.5.

In other words, either the Neons or the Mollies will suffer stress and eventually fall ill if brought together in one community tank because the water composition is outside the range ideal for them.

So, if Bob removes the Mollies from the equation and maintains a water composition ideal for the rest of the fishes, will the Neons, Pleco, and Angelfish be fine together? The answer is, again, “no.”

Defiance 3: “They don’t look aggressive to me!”

Angelfishes belong to the notoriously cranky group of cichlids. Highly territorial and potentially aggressive, Angels (an oxymoron?) are known to be “stealth” attackers. Swimming casually and almost in a delicately gentle manner, they can snap at a prey in a flash and swallow whatever fits their mouths. Full-grown Angels are known to feast on Neons.

So, maybe Bob can chuck the idea of adding Angels later on. Will his tank be safe now with the dozen Neons and one Plecostomus? Unfortunately, the Pleco may pose a whole new problem.

Defiance 4: “They’re just sooo cute!”

The Plecostomus is one of the fastest growing catfishes in captivity. A “cute” three-inch Pleco can double in length in six months and grow to a “horrendous” adult size of close to two feet in a couple of years. Their phenomenal growth is accompanied by their equally phenomenal rate of excretion that can easily overwork standard filtration systems. A Pleco will, therefore, be okay in a 20-gallon tank only in its first few months as a juvenile.

In other words, Bob’s 20-gallon tank is down to just a dozen Neons. That’s no fun, right? Well, a 20-gallon tank can’t really support a lot of fishes, and frankly, losing some to not having an acceptable plan is my definition of “no fun.”
Bob can still have a fun tank by choosing a combination of community fishes that are attractive together and thrive in a habitat that will remain stable indefinitely.

Here’s one suggestion: to join his Neons, he can add a pair of Rams (Ramirezis may be cichlids but they’re one of the more sedate ones), and instead of the Pleco he can choose a pair of Corys (corydoras) or Otos (otocinclus) that remain small even as adults.

Add to that some diligent monitoring, regular water changes (or better yet, an EcoBio-Block that conditions water so that changes are hardly necessary), and efficient equipment, and Bob can be well on his way to implementing a truly acceptable plan.