Aquarium and Pond Care with EcoBio-Block

Cichlids are a group of over 2,000 species of freshwater fish. These fish are some of the most colorful species of fish in the world and also some of the most popular in the aquarium trade. What makes cichlids so special? Aside from their unique and vibrant coloration, cichlids are also a joy to keep in the home aquarium. Many species develop personalities and attachments to their owners. Many species are also very easy to breed. If you plan to breed your cichlids, you should first take the time to learn about the breeding habits of the particular species you have. Then, learn what you will need to do in order to raise the cichlid fry.

Basics of Cichlid Breeding

Cichlids lay eggs rather than giving birth to live fry – because of this, some species can lay hundreds of eggs in one clutch because they are much smaller than live-born fry. Certain species of cichlid lay their eggs on flat surfaces while others bury them in substrate – some even hold the eggs in their mouths, protecting them until they hatch. Before you breed your cichlids, take the time to research their breeding methods so you can prepare the breeding tank accordingly. You should also set up a nursery tank for your fry so the tank is ready as soon as your cichlids spawn.

The Early Stages

After your cichlids have spawned, many species will care for the eggs and fry until (and sometimes for several days after) they hatch. If you find that your cichlids are not caring for the eggs, it is best to remove them from the tank so they don’t eat the eggs. Cichlids that brood the eggs in their mouths should not be disturbed until the fry have been released. Once the eggs have hatched, you can remove the adults from the tank and begin rearing the fry on your own.

A nursery tank for cichlid fry does not need to be large at first. You may not even need to feed the fry for several days until their bodies absorb what is left of the yolk sac. Once this happens you will need to feed the fry very small foods such as infusoria several times a day. After a week or so, the fry should have grown sufficiently to accept newly hatched brine shrimp (called nauplii). At this time it may also be safe to begin performing water changes in the nursery tank to keep the water clean.

The Later Stages

Once your cichlid fry have grown large enough to accept brine shrimp you may want to think about separating them between different grow-out tanks. Dividing the fry between multiple tanks will provide them with adequate space to grow. A grow-out tank should be about 20 gallons in capacity and it should be sparsely decorated to facilitate easy cleaning. Maintain a stable water temperature in the tank and check the water quality on a regular basis. Continue to feed your cichlid fry protein-rich foods, eventually incorporating finely crushed flakes or granules into their diet as well.

Other Tips

After your cichlid fry have grown to be at least an inch long, you can start thinking about transferring them to a community tank or selling them to a pet store. Do not add the fry to an existing tank until they are too large to be considered prey by other fish. In order to make sure that your cichlid fry grow quickly, it is important to keep the tank environment clean. You may find it helpful to add an EcoBio-Stone S  to your fry tank. EcoBio-Block Products are infused with live beneficial bacteria colonies as well as the nutrients they need to multiply and maintain the nitrogen cycle in your tank. Once the nitrogen cycle has been established, the beneficial bacteria will work with your aquarium filter to help keep your tank water clean and clear.

Breeding aquarium fish can be an exciting endeavor but it can also be quite challenging – it is not something you can just jump into without doing any research beforehand. If you were to attempt to breed your betta fish without doing any research, for example, you may not even realize that, when it comes to breeding, there are two different types of bettas. Betta fish species can be divided into two groups according to breeding behavior – bubble-nesting species and mouth-brooding species. In order to successfully breed your betta fish you need to not only know which category they fall into but you must also understand how to encourage breeding in that particular type of fish.

Mouth-Brooding Bettas

Bettas belonging to the mouth-brooding group of species do not build nests for their eggs – they actually take the eggs into their mouths and hold them until the fry hatch. During mating, the male of the species will wrap its body around the female, releasing his sperm as the female releases the eggs. As the eggs are dropped, the male catches them in his fins and the female picks them up in her mouth – the female then spits the eggs out for the male to catch in his mouth. Once spawning is complete and the male has gathered all the eggs he will hold them, or incubate them, for 9 to 16 days until they hatch. While incubating the eggs, male betta fish may eat very little. During this time it is important to prevent your betta from becoming stressed because, if he does, he might end up swallowing the eggs or releasing them before they have hatched. Once the fry have hatched, the male might exhibit some level of parental care but, at that point, it is okay to remove the parents from the tank to raise the fry alone.

Bubble-nesting bettas

Bubble-Nesting Bettas

This group of betta fish builds nests to keep their eggs in after spawning. During mating periods, the male of the species can be seen blowing air bubbles near the surface of the tank to create a sort of “nest” out of bubbles. Once the nest is completely, spawning may occur. Up until the point of spawning, breeding behavior in bubble-nesting species of betta fish is very similar to that of mouth-brooding species. During breeding, the male of the pair wraps his body around the female – the female releases the eggs simultaneously with the male releasing his sperm. After the eggs are fertilized, the female catches them in her fins and gives them to the male who transfers them to the bubble nest he prepared. The spawning process may be repeated several times until all of the eggs have been released and transferred to the bubble nest. After transferring the eggs, the male will guard the nest for one to two days until they hatch. At that point the fry may remain in the nest for another 3 or 4 days until they have absorbed their yolk sacs and become free-swimming.

Tips for Breeding Betta Fish

As is true of any species, betta fish are more likely to breed successfully when provided with the ideal conditions. In addition to a healthy diet, betta fish also require a clean and healthy tank environment. To help keep the water quality in your betta breeding tank high, consider adding an EcoBio-Stone S to your tank. EcoBio-Stones are made from porous volcanic cement and they are infused with beneficial bacteria colonies. These bacteria rapidly multiply in your tank, working to maintain the nitrogen cycle which will help to keep the water in your tank clean and clear. The cleaner your tank and the higher the water quality, the more likely your betta fish are to spawn successfully.

Platies

One of the most popular groups of freshwater aquarium fish, particularly among novice aquarium hobbyists, is the livebearers. Included in this group are guppies, mollies, platies and swordtails – all of which are some of the most colorful species of freshwater aquarium fish. This group of fish was so named because, rather than laying eggs like many species, they produce live young. The fry produced by livebearers are often larger than the fry of egg-laying species just after birth and they tend to grow very quickly if fed properly. If you plan to breed the livebearers in your tank, take the time to read these tips and tricks.

Conditioning Tips for Fish

Before you can expect your livebearers to breed you need to properly condition them. The process of conditioning fish for breeding involves feeding them a healthy, varied diet – typically one that is high in protein. In addition to their traditional diet of commercial flakes or pellets, offer your fish small amounts of fresh, frozen and freeze-dried foods. Over time, you should notice the color of your fish becoming more vibrant. Males of livebearing species often develop intense color when they are ready for breeding and females may exhibit similar behavior. To increase your chances of success, condition the males and females in separate tanks and do not introduce them into the breeding tank until they are ready to spawn.

Tips for Encouraging Spawning

Once your fish are properly conditioned you can introduce them to the breeding tank. The breeding tank should be set up to match the conditions of the main tank, having the same water chemistry so your fish can make the transition seamlessly. You may also want to keep the bottom of the tank bare to facilitate easier cleanings and to make it easier to spot the fry once your fish have spawned. In many cases, fish that have been properly conditioned will mate very quickly after being introduced into the breeding tank. If your fish need a little encouragement, however, you might try raising the temperature in the tank by a degree or two. You may also find it helpful to provide two or three females for every male of a given species – this will reduce aggression between males and increase your chances of achieving a successful spawning.

Raising the Young

Once spawning has occurred it is wise to remove the parent fish from the tank so they do not eat their young. While some egg-laying species of fish exhibit parental care, livebearers typically do not so it is best to raise the fry on their own. Because fry are very small when they are first born they will not be able to accept traditional flake foods. Start your fry off on a diet of very small live foods like infusoria and brine shrimp nauplii. Offer the fry several small feedings per day to encourage quick growth during their first few days of life. After two weeks, begin performing weekly 25% water changes to keep the tank clean. As the fry grow you will be able to transition into larger foods like daphnia and eventually finely crushed flake foods.

Other Tips

One of the most important aspects of breeding aquarium fish is maintaining high water quality. If the water quality in your tank declines, not only are your fish likely to become stressed but they are also less likely to breed. In order to ensure success in breeding your livebearers, consider adding an EcoBio-Stone to your tank. EcoBio-Stones are made from porous volcanic cement and they are infused with beneficial bacteria. These bacteria will rapidly multiply in your tank, working to maintain the nitrogen cycle which will help to keep the water in your tank clean and clear. The cleaner the water is in your breeding tank, the more likely you are to be successful in breeding your livebearers.

Colorful Discus Fish

One of the greatest satisfactions involved in cultivating an aquarium is being able to enjoy the beauty of your fish. Tropical aquarium fish come in a rainbow of colors and patterns – some have colorful spots or stripes while others have long, flowing fins and bright scales. Unfortunately, there may come a time when your fish simply don’t look their best. There are many things that may lead to a loss of coloration in your fish but, in order to fix the problem, you first need to discover its cause. Once you know what is wrong with your fish, you can take the necessary steps to help them recover.

Aquarium Fish Diseases

Throughout their lives, most aquarium fish are exposed to disease in some form or another. Different aquarium fish diseases manifest in different ways, but loss of coloration is a symptom common to many different diseases. When fish become ill, they are likely to also lose their appetite which can lead to a general dulling of color. Certain diseases, particularly fungal and parasite infections, can also lead to discoloration in fish. Some diseases cause fish to develop bloody red streaks on their fins and body and may also result in discolored patches on the skin. In order to deal with problems with loss of coloration due to disease, you first need to identify the disease from which your fish are suffering. Take the time to observe your fish for additional symptoms then perform a little basic research in order to make a diagnosis. The treatment regimen will vary according to the specific disease, but many fungal and parasite infections can be treated with a salt bath or with medication.

Nutritional Deficiency

If you do not feed your fish a healthy, balanced diet not only will they fail to thrive but they may also fail to look their best. This problem is especially common in juvenile fish – when they are not given enough food or the right kind of food, they may grow very slowly and might not develop their full coloration. The key to treating and preventing this problem is to offer your fish a balanced diet composed of a variety of different foods. Offer your fish a staple diet of commercial flake or pellet food formulated to meet their basic nutritional needs. To fill in the gaps and to provide your fish with extra nutrition, offer a supplemental diet of various live, frozen and freeze-dried foods. Try to vary the type of food you offer your fish and only offer small amounts of live and frozen foods at a time because they can be very rich and may cause digestive issues.

Tips and Tricks

Even if you feed your fish a healthy diet and protect them from exposure to disease, they could still suffer a loss of coloration at some point. Stress can also have a significant impact on the health and appearance of your fish. Not only do fish become more susceptible to disease when they become stressed, they may also suffer a loss of coloration. Poor water quality is the most common cause of stress in aquarium fish and it is also a very easy problem to solve. Simply performing weekly water changes and replacing your filter media once a month can work wonders in improving your water quality. Another thing you might try is installing an EcoBio-Stone in your tank. EcoBio-Stones are made from porous volcanic cement and they are infused with beneficial bacteria. These bacteria rapidly multiply in your tank, working to maintain the nitrogen cycle which will help to keep the water in your tank clean and clear.

Marne tank

If you are an experienced aquarium hobbyist, you have probably dealt with your fair share of Ich outbreaks. What you may not realize, however, is that there are significant differences between freshwater and marine Ich. Both diseases are caused by a parasite but they can affect your tank and spread throughout your aquarium in different ways. If you have a saltwater tank, it would be beneficial for you to learn the basics about marine Ich so that you are prepared to deal with it, if needed

Symptoms

While freshwater Ich is caused by the parasite Ichthyophthirius multifiliis, marine Ich is caused by the parasite Cryptocaryon irrita. Like freshwater Ich, marine Ich typically manifests in form of small white spots covering the bodies, fins and gills of saltwater aquarium fish. These spots are actually encysted parasites and, while attached to the bodies of fish, they are feeding on the fish in preparation for the next stage of their life cycle. Though white spots are the most obvious symptom of marine Ich, this disease may also cause fish to develop cloudy eyes, pale gills or ragged fins. In response to the parasite infection, some fish may experience an increase in mucus production on their skin which could also contribute to a change in skin coloration. In addition to these physical symptoms, fish may also exhibit behavioral changes such as lethargy, abnormal swimming behavior, labored breathing or rubbing against tank objects (flashing).

Transmission and Spread

Marine Ich has the potential to spread very quickly throughout the saltwater tank. By the time you notice the symptoms of the disease, the parasite may already be widely distributed throughout the tank. When the parasite is attached to the host body it is in the feeding and growing stage and, in this stage, it is called a trophont. Once the parasite matures, it detaches itself from the host body and becomes a tomont. During this stage, the parasite will attach itself to the tank substrate or other tank objects and form a cyst. Inside this cyst, the tomont divides up to 10 times, producing many tiny tomites which will eventually break out of the cyst and infect the entire tank, seeking host bodies to attach to in order to restart the entire life cycle. Unlike freshwater Ich, marine Ich is not affected by water temperature. A common treatment for freshwater Ich is to increase the tank temperature in order to speed up the life cycle of the parasite so that it becomes vulnerable to medication. Marine Ich, however, is not sensitive to temperature and it is likely to spread quickly in tanks that have poor water quality.

Treatment Options

The most common treatment for marine Ich is copper or copper sulfate. To administer this treatment properly, dose your tank at a rate of between 0.15 to 0.24 mg/liter. In most cases, this treatment is effective within a few weeks – do not prolong the treatment more than necessary because excess exposure to copper can be harmful for fish. Another option is a medication called Coppersafe which is a stabilized form of chelated copper that is safe for both freshwater and saltwater aquarium fish. This medication is effective against several kinds of external parasites and one dose lasts for 4 weeks. As an alternative to copper treatment, you could also try raising the salinity of your tank to 11 or 12 ppt. Be careful when using this treatment, however, because some fish may be sensitive to changes in salinity.

In addition to treating the infection, you may also want to take steps to improve the water quality in your tank. Fish become stressed when the water quality in the tank declines and that stress often results in increased susceptibility to disease – the happier your fish are, the healthier they will be. A simple way to improve the water quality in your tank is to add an EcoBio-Stone. These stones are made from volcanic stone and they are infused with beneficial bacteria. Once added to your tank, the beneficial bacteria from the EcoBio-Stone will rapidly multiply, working to maintain the nitrogen cycle in your tank, thus keeping your tank water clean and clear.