Aquarium and Pond Care with EcoBio-Block

Quarantine tank with EcoBio-Stone S

When one of your fish falls ill it may only be a matter of time before the disease spreads to your other tank inhabitants. For this reason it is extremely important for you to keep an eye out for the early symptoms of disease. If you catch the disease early enough you will be able to quarantine the sick fish in a hospital tank to ensure a speedy recovery and to prevent your other fish from falling ill. A hospital tank, or quarantine tank, is a fairly basic set-up and it is generally easy to maintain.

Setting Up the Tank

Because you will usually keep just one fish in the hospital tank at a time it does not need to be large – 10 gallons is a sufficient size. The bottom of the tank should be kept bare of gravel or other substrate to facilitate easy cleaning and to prevent the build-up of disease-harboring bacteria. Do not over-decorate the tank – simply provide a few plants or an overturned terra cotta pot to give your fish places to hide. Hospital tanks have very few requirements other than clean water and adequate filtration but you need to choose wisely when selecting a filter for your tank. Power filters that have a low setting are generally recommended for hospital tanks because they provide both chemical and mechanical filtration without creating a current powerful enough to disturb your sick fish.

Using a Hospital Tank

When you notice the symptoms of disease beginning to manifest in your tank, set up your hospital tank as quickly as possible. Use as much water from the original tank as you can when filling the hospital tank in order to decrease the amount of stress your fish experience in switching tanks. Use an in-tank thermometer to monitor and control the water temperature in the tank and administer whatever medications your fish require on a regular basis.

Other Tips for Hospital Tanks

If you have a large tank with many fish, it may be wise to set up a permanent hospital tank. By doing this you can rest assured that if one of your fish happens to fall ill you will not be putting the rest of your fish at risk by delaying the removal of the sick fish from the tank. A hospital tank can also be used as a quarantine tank when you bring new fish home from the pet store. To prevent the spread of disease you should always quarantine new fish for at least seven days. This will ensure that the new fish do not pass an existing illness on to your other fish.

A quick and easy way to ensure that the water in your hospital tank stays clean and clear is to use an EcoBio-Stone. EcoBio-Stones are made from porous volcanic rock and cement block and they are infused with nutrients and beneficial bacteria designed to keep your tank healthy. Once introduced into your tank, these beneficial bacteria will multiply and work to speed up the nitrogen cycle, keeping your tank water clean and clear. Not only do EcoBi0-Block products help keep your tank healthy, they also reduce the amount of routine maintenance required.

No matter how careful you are in caring for your aquarium fish, the chances are good that you will eventually experience the outbreak of some kind of disease. By acting quickly in setting up and utilizing a hospital tank, however, you can effectively curtail the spread of this disease. Learning how to set up a hospital tank, and then putting that knowledge to use, is a simple way to ensure that your sick fish recover quickly and your other fish do not fall ill.

Platy fry

While several species of freshwater aquarium fish breed readily under a variety of circumstances, some have specific requirements that must be met before they are likely to spawn. The basics of breeding, however, are fairly uniform among most species of freshwater aquarium fish. The first thing you must do is to select a breeding pair, or a trio for some species, and quarantine them in a breeding tank. Once you have done so, you can begin the process of conditioning your fish for breeding.

Setting Up a Breeding Tank

The size of the breeding tank should depend on the size of the fish, but ten to twenty gallons is usually sufficient. The tank should be bare-bottomed in order to make it easier to clean and it should be decorated sparsely. It is wise to provide a few hiding places like large rocks or terra cotta pots in the event that the female needs a place to rest and recover from the male’s aggressive advances. Some species – egg-layers in particular – prefer a breeding tank stocked with live plants on which they will deposit their eggs.

Encouraging Your Fish to Spawn

Maintaining a steady temperature and providing a healthy, varied diet are two of the most important elements in encouraging your fish to spawn. The temperature of the breeding tank should be determined by the breed of fish but, in many cases, slowly raising the temperature encourages breeding behavior. In some species, however, the opposite is true. Corydoras catfish, for example, typically spawn after a recent rainfall has lowered the temperature in their native habitat, the Amazon River.

Offer your fish a varied diet consisting of small amounts of live, frozen, flake and pellets foods several times a day in order to condition them for breeding. After a few days you should begin to notice courtship and spawning behavior. The male of the species will often chase the female around the tank and some fish, like betta fish, will prepare a bubble nest and collect the eggs after spawning has occurred.

Caring for Fry

Some species of fish, such as cichlids, care for their fry after they have hatched but most freshwater fish are more likely to eat their own young. This being the case, it is wise to remove the parents from the breeding tank as soon as possible after spawning has occurred. If you are breeding an egg-laying species, dose the tank with methylene blue to prevent fungus from killing the eggs. Install a sponge filter in the corner of the tank to provide filtration without putting the fry at risk for being sucked up an intake valve.

For the first few days after hatching, the fry of most egg-laying species will subsist on the remainder of their yolk sacs. The fry of live-bearing species, however, should be started on a diet of newly hatched brine shrimp or a liquid fry food such as infusoria. During the first few weeks after hatching it is important to feed the fry small amounts several times a day. Once they have tripled in size you may begin to feed them finely crushed flake foods and, as they continue to grow, move them to a larger tank.

Tips for Breeding Success

If your fish are not in prime condition, they will be unlikely to spawn. In addition to a healthy diet, clean water is essential to the health and well-being of your fish. Establishing a colony of beneficial bacteria in your tank is one of the best ways to keep the water quality in your tank high. Install an EcoBio-Stone to begin a colony of nitrifying bacteria that will help to remove odor, break down wastes, and keep the water clear. EcoBio-Stones are made of natural volcanic rock infused with beneficial bacteria that will multiply readily upon being introduced into your tank. Not only is this product perfect for the breeding tank, but it can also be used in fry tanks where power filters are not recommended due to the danger they pose toward delicate fry.

When it comes to selecting tropical fish for the home aquarium, many aquarists do not know that there is more to the process than simply picking the fish you like. In addition to taking the full size of the fish into consideration, you need to determine whether the species you are selecting will be able to get along. Tropical fish compatibility refers to the degree to which one species of fish can happily coexist with another. By learning the basics of this concept you will be more equipped to select the inhabitants for your aquarium so they will form a peaceful community where all fish are happy and thriving.

Community fish tank

Regarding tropical fish compatibility, there are three major categories into which most species of fish fall: community; semi-aggressive and aggressive. Community fish are those species which are typically peaceful and get along well with most other fish. Danios, tetras, guppies, swordtails, platys and mollies are community fish that not only do well with a variety of other species but thrive best in groups, or schools, made up of their own species.

Semi-aggressive tropical fish are those which have a tendency to be territorial but generally tolerate community fish. Some examples of fish belonging to this category include barbs, gouramis, eels, loaches and sharks. In most cases, these species can co-exist happily with other species provided there is enough space in the tank to reduce the need of the semi-aggressive fish to defend its territory. Breeding is another major concern which factors into how well one fish will get along with another. Semi-aggressive and aggressive fish should be limited to one male of the species per tank. If two males of the same species are kept in one tank, the stronger male is likely to torment the other until it falls ill and dies.

Some of the most aggressive species of tropical fish are also the largest. Oscars and cichlids are the most common species belonging to this category and they do best when kept in large tanks with few other fish. Some species of cichlid can be extremely aggressive so it is important that you do your research or consult a professional at your local aquarium supply store before adding a cichlid to your aquarium. When they are small, plecostomus are generally fairly peaceful but medium and large plecostumus can be also very territorial and aggressive.

The key to keeping your fish happy and healthy is to reduce stress and one of the easiest ways to do so is to ensure that all of your fish get along. Choose carefully when purchasing the fish for your aquarium and use caution when introducing them. Rather than adding your fish all at once, especially when you first start your aquarium, add one species at a time and give each group enough time to adjust to the tank. Adding fish to the tank slowly will also give your filter and the beneficial bacteria in your tank time to adjust and accommodate for the new arrivals.

Maintain the harmony in your tank by keeping both your fish and your aquarium healthy. Adding to your tank an EcoBio-Stone, a product made of natural zeolite, is an easy way to improve water clarity. The stone introduces a colony of beneficial bacteria called bacillus subtillis natto which break down ammonia and nitrify the water in your aquarium, keeping it clean and clear. EcoBio-Block products help to reduce the frequency of necessary water changes and contribute to making your aquarium a more pleasant environment for your fish. When you provide your fish with a healthy environment in which to live and the right tank mates, they are sure to thrive.

Betta fish, also called Siamese fighting fish, are known for being one of the most territorial and aggressive species of tropical fish. The males of this species cannot be kept in the same tank without one killing the other. Because these fish are so aggressive, they are typically kept individually in small bowls or tanks. If you are able to keep the fish separated, however, it is possible to keep multiple male bettas in one tank. By building a tank divider you can create several compartments within a single tank in which to house your betta fish.

Materials Needed:
Plastic embroidery canvas
Scissors
Plastic binding bars

To build a tank divider, measure the width of your aquarium from the front wall to the back, holding the measuring tape against the inside walls of the aquarium. Cut a piece of plastic embroidery canvas to the exact measurement and slide it vertically into the tank. The sides of the canvas should fit snugly against the front and back wall – there should be no gaps through which a betta fish might slip. Trim the top of the embroidery canvas so it sits just below the rim of the tank.

Slide a plastic binding bar onto all four edges of the embroidery canvas, trimming them to the length and width of the canvas. Place the divider back inside the tank to ensure that it fits. If adding the binding bars significantly increases the width of the divider you may need to trim the canvas slightly so that it sits flush with the tank walls.

Build up the substrate against the bottom of the tank divider to remove the possibility that your betta fish can burrow under it to the other side of the tank. If you can, dig a trench in the substrate before sliding the divider into place then fill in the trench once the bottom of the divider sits against the bottom of the tank. Check that the water level in the tank is at least two inches below the top of the divider before introducing your betta fish to their sections of the tank.

Other Considerations for a Divided Tank

While a divided tank is an excellent way to economize your use of tank space in keeping multiple bettas, there are some problems which you will need to address. Plastic embroidery canvas is filled with small holes which allow water to flow from one side of the tank to the other, but whichever side you place the filter on will benefit from higher water quality than the other. You might install your filter as close to the center of the tank as possible or use two smaller filters, one in each corner. Another alternative to this plan is to place a mesh bag full of EcoBio-Pebbles in the section of the tank furthest from the filter. EcoBio-Pebbles are made of porous volcanic rock infused with beneficial bacteria which break down ammonia and help to clarify and purify aquarium water. Once the bacteria have been introduced into your tank through the EcoBio-Pebbles they will multiply and continue to revitalize the water, lessening the frequency of necessary water changes and improving the water quality in your tank. By using EcoBio-Pebbles in your betta tank you can avoid having to purchase a second filter and both sides of the tank will benefit from clear, healthy water.

Goldfish are widely thought of as one of the lowest maintenance pets you can find. Goldfish keeping is practically a hassle free hobby. You do not have to worry about taking goldfish out on walks, nor do you have to worry about them chewing your furniture.

Keeping goldfish is popular for another reason as well. Watching goldfish swim around in their aquarium is beneficial due to the calming affect it seems to have on the mind. Goldfish keeping is one of the best ways to release stress and eliminate tension from your life. Watching your goldfish grow and live is surely a pleasurable experience.

Goldfish are an interesting species, which can live for as long as thirty years if proper care is taken of them. With so much to gain from goldfish keeping, the least you could do is look after them well.

In spite of the relative ease of goldfish keeping, mistakes are still made from time to time. However, if you take the time to learn the basics of goldfish keeping and the common problems involved, you and your goldfish are on your way to a long, beautiful friendship.

A. There are a few things you should know about goldfish keeping.

One of the first things you should know is that goldfish are dirty little creatures. They eat constantly and regurgitate much of their food as well as creating quite a bit of waste. They also have a habit of plowing up the bottom of their tanks for food, making the water dirty and muddy looking. Dirty water is harmful and often fatal to goldfish due to an increase in toxins and a decrease in oxygen.

Fortunately, products like EcoBio-Block are available to help reduce the amount of care and maintenance involved in providing a proper home for your goldfish. It contains beneficial bacteria living and multiplying in the block, which work to clarify cloudy aquarium water naturally.

It is important to understand that a goldfish aquarium is a delicate eco- system. Take your time as well as great care when you are setting up your goldfish’s home. You must ensure a proper balance of microorganisms to maintain a healthy aquarium for your beloved goldfish.

The water in your goldfish aquarium should be completely clean in addition to being well-oxygenated. You will need a good filter as well as an air pump. The oxygen in the aquarium will not only help your goldfish, but also the beneficial bacteria that the EcoBio-Block disperses into the water approximately every half-hour.

B. Illness Is Inevitable

Keeping goldfish healthy is generally obtainable through basic aquarium management. All you have to do is make sure the water is clean, appropriately oxygenated and maintaining a proper temperature. Giving your goldfish a good home and feeding it correctly is usually enough to avoid major problems.

However, even in the most diligently managed aquariums, goldfish do get sick from time to time. Fortunately, it is easy to recognize when something is wrong with your goldfish. Here is a list of some of the most common goldfish problems:

• Ichtyopthirius – bad water can lead to this parasite, which causes small salt-like grain on the fins, gills or skin
• Fin Rot – parts of your goldfish’s tails and fins will appear to be wasting away
• Fungus – a bacterial infection that strikes weak or injured goldfish in a poorly maintained aquarium
• Constipation – can occur from improper feeding

If left untreated, these problems may be fatal to your goldfish. However, if you notice something is wrong with your goldfish and it is promptly treated with the right care, goldfish will usually make a full recovery.