Measuring pH with a Meter

Water chemistry is a term used to describe the chemical and physical characteristics of tank water which can be measured using aquarium water test kits. Test kits are typically inexpensive and easy to use, making them an excellent tool for in-home use by aquarium hobbyists. These tests will help you to monitor the basic components of water chemistry – pH, water hardness and chemical content. While many species of freshwater fish are tolerant of a variety of tank conditions, it is always a good idea to keep an eye on the water chemistry in your tank. If the pH spikes or the water becomes too hard, your fish could become stressed and, as a result, could fall ill or even die. By learning the basics of water chemistry you can prevent such a disaster from happening in your tank.

Main Components of Water Chemistry

Perhaps the most important component of water chemistry is pH. PH is a measure of how acidic or alkaline the water in your tank is and it is measured on a scale from 0 to 14. A pH of 7.0 is considered neutral while anything above is alkaline and anything below is acidic. The recommended pH for a fish tank varies depending on the species of fish and the natural environment from which they come. Water hardness, or general hardness, is a measure of the concentration of dissolved ions in tank water. This hardness is measured in degrees – soft water typically measures between 0° and 3.36° degrees of general hardness (°GH) and hard water is between 6.78° and 10.08° GH. Another important aspect of water chemistry is buffering capacity – the ability of tank water to maintain a stable pH. When acids or bases are added to the tank, the buffering capacity of the water is what keeps the pH from spiking or dropping as a result of these additions. All aquariums are likely to contain trace amounts of chemicals and toxins such as ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Keeping an eye on the chemical levels in your tank is a good way to prevent ammonia poisoning and toxicity.

Testing Water Quality

Basic aquarium water test kits are available online and in pet stores, usually for $20 or less. These kits are easy to use and generally work in one of two ways. Some kits include test strips that you simply dip into a cup of tank water while others involve collecting individual water samples and adding drops of test solution. Once you have taken the samples, all you need to do is compare the color of the sample to the color chart included with the test kit in order to determine the measurement of whatever it is you are testing for. It is wise to perform water tests on a weekly basis and you should record the measurements in a journal in order to keep track of any changes.

Tips for Maintaining High Water Quality

The easiest and most effective way to keep the water quality in your tank high is to perform weekly 10% to 20% water changes. These water changes will help to control the waste build-up in your tank and will also ensure that your water chemistry stays stable. Another simple way to keep the water in your tank clean and the water chemistry stable is to introduce an EcoBio-Stone. These stones are made from porous volcanic cement and are infused with unique beneficial bacteria. Once introduced into the tank, these bacteria will multiply to form a colony of nitrifying bacteria which will help to maintain the nitrogen cycle. Placing the EcoBio-Stone will greatly reduce your maintenance needs – the bacteria will do most of the work in helping to keep your tank water clear and the water quality high.

Did you know there are ways to promote the growth of healthy nitrifying bacteria in the aquarium and things to avoid which will adversely affect bacteria?

There are many strains of the nitrifying bacteria species and each may have varying tolerances, but in general, the following information applies to all of them:

Temperature

Temperature plays a role in the growth rate of bacteria.

• 77-86° F (25-30° C)  is the temperature for optimum growth of nitrifying bacteria
• At 64° F (18° C) the growth rate is decreased by 50%
• At 46-50° F. Growth rate is decreased by 75%
• No activity will occur at 39° F (4° C)
• Nitrifying bacteria will die at 32° F (0° C).
• Nitrifying bacteria will die at 120° F (49° C)

In cold water systems, careful attention should be given to monitor the levels of nitrite.

pH

The optimum pH range for Nitrosomonas is between 7.8-8.0, and for Nitrobacter is between 7.3-7.5. Below these ranges growth is slowed down. All nitrification ceases at a pH of 6.0 or lower. Ammonia levels should be closely monitored at a pH of 6.5 or lower.

Dissolved Oxygen

Oxygen levels have a direct effect on nitrifying bacteria. At very low levels the bacteria basically become inactive.  The bacteria reach their highest level of nitrification when dissolved oxygen levels reach 80% saturation.

Micronutrients

Just like plant life, bacteria need nutrients to feed on for energy and growth. Many micronutrients are used by bacteria including phosphorus which plays an important role in the conversion of ATP to energy for cellular functions. Phosphorus is usually present in the form of phosphate in tap water and from decaying fish foods or other decaying organic material, but if your aquarium has no measurable level of phosphate it would be a good idea to introduce a small amount by way of phosphoric acid, mono-sodium phosphate or di-sodium phosphate.

Other micronutrients, (minerals) are normally found in ample levels in tap water. RO, deionized, or distilled water that is completely stripped of all minerals is inhibitory to nitrifying bacteria. It is important if using this type of water to replenish the water with mineral salts for the overall health of the aquatic system.

You can use products like the EcoBio-Block line, which contain special beneficial bacteria (bacillus subtilis natto) that are already packaged with the micronutrients they need to keep levels of good bacteria high and cloudy water and odor non-existent. These bacterium can survive from the strong acid of pH 3 to the strong alkali of pH 11, and are active in temperatures from 50° F to 149° F.

Nitrifying bacteria play an important role in keeping a healthy and balanced aquarium, but are also dependent on a balanced environment in order to function and grow- as all life is.

To have a healthy freshwater aquarium, you need to be aware of the basic water parameters that constitute a healthy freshwater aquarium.  This will increase the chances that your fish will enjoy long and healthy lives.

The pH level of your water is vitally important. pH is the measurement of hydrogen ions in the water.  Increased hydrogen ions lead to a drop in pH, causing more acidic water as you would find in a car’s battery. Conversely, decreased hydrogen ions lead to a rise in pH, causing less acidic water as you would find in dish soap. Most types of fish can adapt to most pH levels, but it is especially shocking to their systems and dangerous to their health if the pH level is constantly changing.

Therefore, you should try to keep the pH level at one level at all times whenever possible. Additionally, drops in pH levels cause ammonia toxicity to be more deadly to fish and keep nitrifying bacteria from growing and being more productive, also negatively affecting the health of your fish and aquarium, so it’s also important that the pH levels of your aquarium are not too low or acidic.

Water hardness is made up of two factors:  general hardness (GH) and carbonate hardness (KH). GH primarily measures calcium and magnesium ions. KH primarily measures dissolved bicarbonate and carbonate ions and indicates how stable your pH level is, as more bonding of carbonate ion and hydrogen ions indicate a higher pH, while less bonding indicates a lower pH.

The nitrogen compounds of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate make up the Nitrogen Cycle, which is a very important process in having a healthy aquarium. Fish wastes, leftover food, and all other organic matter are decomposed by microorganisms, leaving toxic Ammonia. Bacteria known as Nitrosomonas turn this Ammonia Gas into Nitrite. This substance is also toxic for fish and the other inhabitants of the aquarium, but fortunately, nitrifying bacteria are able to transform Nitrite into Nitrate, a less toxic substance that can be used by fish and other inhabitants of the aquarium as well as plants. The nitrifying bacteria usually need two to six weeks before they are plentiful enough to completely handle the rigors of your aquarium.

The EcoBio-Block line of products can effectively promote the Nitrogen Cycle and keep your water’s ammonia levels from spiking and endangering the lives of your fish.  The EcoBio-Stone S is an especially good choice for a small freshwater and saltwater aquarium, while the EcoBio-Stone M and EcoBio-Stone L can accommodate medium and large freshwater and saltwater aquariums respectively.

Phosphates enter the aquarium through water changes using tap water and also through food and leaching carbon. Dying plants and algae also create phosphates while decaying. High pH will keep phosphates in an insoluble stage, while low pH will make these compounds water-soluble and available to the algae spores. It’s important to note that the variance in pH levels in an aquarium can have an effect on what stage the phosphates are in, and having some algae is critical to the life of your aquarium.

Silicates enter the aquarium through substrate, salt, water, and dying diatom algae. Filters used to keep them out will only last for a few days before they find their way through the membranes.  Decaying organic matter creates another type of silicate, silicid acid. As with phosphates, silicates become water-soluble at lower pH levels.

High chlorine and chloramine levels can cause fish to die because they destroy the oxygen-carrying cells in your fish.  Chlorine is less stable than chloramine and airs out in just a few days. Chloramine, a mixture of ammonia and chlorine, is much more stable and can pass through the fishís tissue directly into the bloodstream. Chloramine can kill all of the fish in an aquarium within 24 hours, so it is vital that you treat tap water before using it in your aquarium as most municipal water systems use chlorine or chloramine to treat the water.

As you can see, there are many water parameters you need to be aware of in order to have a healthy freshwater aquarium.  It is vital that you test these factors regularly and take immediate action to remedy any problems so that your fish and aquarium are not in danger. By following this information, you will be able to establish a healthy freshwater aquarium where your fish and other inhabitants will live long and healthy lives.

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This can happen due to poor water quality, especially elevated ammonia levels because of an unhealthy filtration system. It can also take place because the novice owner is still a bit clumsy at giving the aquarium and fish the proper sort of care.

Old Tank Syndrome has a telltale symptom, and that is a sense of complacency in a long time aquarium owner when it comes to the condition of his or her tank. All of the excitement of having this hobby has passed by this time, and the fish-lover could almost be said to take his aquarium for granted.

The tank is stable, the fish are well fed and in good health. There have been no changes in the aquarium for quite a while now. The fish are fed on schedule most of the time, and no new fish have been added to the aqua community. No water tests for ammonia or nitrites have been done, either. All those partial water changes that were done at the beginning of aquarium ownership have fallen by the wayside as well.

It is about now that the long-time aquarium owner begins to notice that his fish tank seems to be a bit “off”. He or she may decide to do a partial water change to try and rectify things. Alternately, the hobbyist discovers a dead fish, and decides to go and purchase a few new occupants for the aquarium. Either of these scenarios is going to upset the balance of the aquarium.

The present fish are used to the aquarium condition just the way it is. A partial water change could prove to be very stressful, and could even kill the fish. Every seasoned pet fish keeper has heard this tale of woe from a newbie, “We had just changed the water, and then all the fish started to die one by one.”

New fish will also upset the balance in the aquarium, but in a different way. They will create even more ammonia and nitrites, and this will upset the balance that the fish have slowly become used to. Either way, you stand a good chance of losing some fish.

Old tank syndrome can be avoided by maintaining the same schedule of water testing and frequent partial water changes that you did when your tank was brand new. Or, you can take advantage of one of the EcoBio-Block family of products, and spend the time you would have spent maintaining your aquarium admiring your fish! EcoBio-Block Products will keep the water quality in your tank healthy for your fish population as well as maintaining the water in a crystal clear condition.

Healthy aquarium

Those who have just begun the hobby of keeping freshwater aquarium fish may not realize the importance of keeping the aquarium water quality in their tanks crystal clean and pleasing to the eye. When the water has this appearance, and has no odor, you know that your aquarium is a good home for your fish. The aquarium water quality of the water you use can play a big role in the overall health and longevity of your fish.

You are responsible for the condition of your fish. In the wild, the different species of fish thrive in various kinds of environments. To be fair to your fish, it is up to you to provide an environment for them that will mimic what they would live in were they in their natural state.

The type of water you use is very important. Most people use whatever water is easiest for them. This means tap water to the majority of the population who have aquariums. The only thing needed is a dechlorinator or a chloramine remover. Tap water from a city source is more than likely chlorinated, and you must remove this chemical from the water to make it safe for your fish.

Other water types you can use in your aquarium if tap water is not an option include various types of bottled water. Since bottled water so frequently comes from a municipal source, just as tap water does, it is difficult to find a brand you can trust unless you become a habitual label reader.

If you use a water softener for your home, you should make sure that the softener media it requires is safe for your aquarium. Sometimes, fish owners want to collect rainwater, or use water from a lake or stream to fill their tank. There may be pathogens, pollution, or parasites in these water types that could harm your fish.

Tap water is generally safe, no matter where you may happen to live. The consensus among those who do not keep fish is that if it is good enough for human consumption, it should be good enough for a fish. While clean water is very important for people, aquarium fish do much better with the addition of some beneficial bacteria to their water.

What can beneficial bacteria do for the water in your aquarium, and the health of your fish? These bacteria can do many things to make the aquarium fish hobby one that you will thoroughly enjoy. Keeping fish is much easier when you have the right bacteria balance. Beneficial bacteria can clarify the cloudy water in your tank, keeping it healthy and clear. As long as there are beneficial bacteria present, your aquarium water quality will continue to improve.

Nowadays, it is easier than ever to keep fish happy and healthy. An EcoBio-Block is a block made of volcanic mixture that has been infused with the live, beneficial bacteria your fish tank needs. These bacteria will keep your tank water crystal clear and odor free. They will help a new aquarium to cycle faster, and almost eliminate the need for frequent partial water changes and substrate vacuuming.

EcoBio-Block is safe for your fish, and can last for up to two years. Anyone who enjoys keeping fish and has pondered over aquarium water quality dos and don’ts, owes it to themselves to try an EcoBio-Block, and see the difference in their tank water.

gravel siphone

One of the first tidbits of information many new aquarium owners get, often has to do with partial water changes. It is important to be aware of the importance of partial water changes for your freshwater aquarium. However, doing this tank maintenance the wrong way can be just as bad, or worse, than not doing anything at all about changing the water.

Many beginners think tank maintenance means that twice a month, you take out the fish, drain the water, take out the gravel and anything else in the tank, and wash everything except the fish thoroughly! This is rather extreme, and unfortunately, anyone who practices this method will be out of the fish hobby very quickly.

A partial water change takes place when you change a part of the water in your aquarium on a regular basis. The key word here is part. So many novice owners will take out half of the water or more, add back fresh water, and not bother to add any sort of water conditioner. Then they wonder why they usually have a fish death or two after each water change! Novices have been known to exclaim knowingly to others that changing the water in an aquarium will kill your fish!

Nothing could be further from the truth, but unless you know how to change the water properly, it could seem to be true. Your fish may seem to thrive without regular water changes and proper tank maintenance, but they will more than likely be very stressed due to the poor conditions they must live in.

How do you know when it is time to perform this sort of maintenance on your aquarium? Generally, aquarium hobbyists to prevent a drop in the water’s pH, or a spike of the nitrate values will change the water every week or so. If the sides of your tank have started to collect algae, this is another sign that a partial water change is needed. By paying close attention to the appearance of your aquarium, subtle changes are more easily seen.

So, how do we do these partial water changes, and do them correctly? You will need certain equipment to do this job. It is best to have a tool called a gravel siphon to help to drain the water and clean up part of the substrate at the same time. You will also need a couple of buckets, water conditioner, and a scrubbing pad made just for aquarium use.

How much water should be taken from the tank during a partial water change? Most of those who have experience in maintaining fish tanks will say that no more than one-fourth of the total amount of water in the aquarium should be removed. Of course, if you have gone too long between water changes, you may well have to remove more than this amount. This is why it is important to do these changes on a regular basis. Removing too much water stresses out the fish, and also upsets the bacterial balance of the water, which contributes to the stress felt by the fish.

That is why the addition of an EcoBio-Block to your aquarium is one of the best things you can do. The EcoBio-Block not only keeps the tank water crystal clear, but also establishes a friendly and beneficial bacterium that will multiply freely for about two years. Other nutrients and minerals are added to the water as well. You do not have to worry about the bacterial balance with an EcoBio-Block product! This product also dramatically decreases the number of times you will need to do a partial water change and vacuum the gravel. The water stays clean and clear, with no discernable odor, and you have saved both time and money. Using the EcoBio-Block can give the novice to the world of aquariums a good feeling about his new hobby.

Ammonia Test

What are some of the common problems with aquarium water chemistry? Many times, beginners to the aquarium hobby are uncertain as to what steps they need to take in order to get their tank off to a good start.

No matter how clear and sparkling that water may look in your new aquarium, do not be fooled! Remember that looks can frequently be deceptive. Many new owners think that it could not possibly hurt to go ahead and add some fish to their new aquarium setup once they have added the water. After all, it looks so clean and pure!

Wrong. That water you just poured into your tank is full of certain gases that can be toxic to your fish in the right amount. Compressed carbon dioxide gas is present in most city or tap water, along with chlorine, fluoride, and perhaps even some sulfides as well. There are also minerals, heavy metals, and chemicals in this water.

Some of these substances are added by the facilities that treat water in order to make it safe for human consumption. What is safe for a human can be quite unsafe for a fish. You must wait for the water in your aquarium to stabilize before you can add any fish to it. Often, people are advised to place one lone feeder fish in the tank in order to get the beneficial bacteria started up, cycle the tank, and also to see if the water quality is good enough for this fish to live in. While this seems like a good plan, you may be bringing diseases into your tank by doing so. There are much better ways to accomplish this task.

Test kits are available to tell you the condition of your aquarium water. Make sure you get the proper test to match your aquarium water, as the tests for freshwater and saltwater tanks can be a little different. You will want to test your tap water before proceeding to test the tank water. That first test will give you a baseline of sorts. Knowing the parameters of your tap water and comparing them to the parameters of your aquarium water can help you to decide if you need to do a partial water change or adjust the water parameters.

What sort of parameters do these kits test the water for? Normally, a simple water test kit will check the pH, Nitrite, Nitrate, Carbonate hardness and General hardness. You can also purchase kits that will test for ammonia. Tanks can be tested for KH or GH as well with a simple home kit. You can purchase products at your pet store to make the proper adjustments.

It does not take much ammonia to be toxic to fish, so the beginner hobbyist should strive to keep the levels in the tank at or near zero. However, during cycling, you will get high ammonia readings until there is enough bacteria in the tank to breakdown the ammonia into safer by-products. During this time, water changes of 10 –20% are suggested to keep the ammonia levels down. Different fish varieties need different pH readings, so a normal level will depend on the type of fish you are keeping. At one time, the only way to test your aquarium water was with a series of test kits and/or test strips. Whenever you suspected a problem, you would need to perform these tests on a daily basis. With the busy lifestyles so many of us have, it could be difficult to schedule this testing.

Fortunately, there is a solution that will save the hobbyist time, effort, and even some cash! The EcoBio-Block family of products can keep your aquarium water safe for your fish. These products contain a good bacteria that can last as long as two years. This bacteria will change ammonia into nitrates, which are safer for fish. Minerals and calcium are added to the water by the block, and the water is kept sparkling clear. Owning and using an EcoBio-Block product is a great way to help you reduce any problems you might have with your aquarium. Common problems with aquarium water chemistry are easily conquered when you are using the right tools.

There are three main emergencies that the saltwater tank owner needs to be prepared for if possible. Knowing what to do when faced with a leaking tank, an electrical outage, or a tank that is overheating can go a long way towards turning an emergency into a learning experience.

A leaking saltwater tank does not have to mean disaster for the carpet or floors in your home if you act quickly. If you discover a leak, bring out those clean five-gallon buckets you have collected just in case you needed them, and start dipping the salt water out of your aquarium. The idea is to save as much of the water as you can. Take a fish net, and gently catch your fish, then place them in the five-gallon buckets of aquarium water.

I hope that you have anticipated a saltwater tank problem, and have another aquarium that you can quickly set up. The longer your saltwater fish have to spend in those buckets, the greater are the chances that they may not survive. Once you get the spare tank set up, place your fish and their water into it, hook up your filters, heater, and lights, and all is well again.

If your power goes out during a storm, it could be off for ten minutes or ten days, depending on the severity of the storm and where you live. Prepare for this problem by obtaining an air pump that runs on batteries. This will help to keep the oxygen levels in your saltwater aquarium as close to normal as possible, as well as aerate the water. If it is cold, you will want to keep your fish as warm as you can. A heavy blanket wrapped around the tank will help keep the heat in.

If you live in an area where the power goes off routinely for a few days during storm season, a small portable generator of the kind used for camping could work out to be cheaper than batteries for you. You can plug the electrical accessories, such as your saltwater tank’s filtration system, heater and the like, right into the generator, which can run for several hours on a tank of fuel.

An aquarium heater that malfunctions can be dangerous to your fish if it is allowed to run unchecked. Make a habit of checking the temperature of the water on a daily basis. If you should discover that the water in your saltwater tank is too hot, immediately begin to remove some of the water in those five-gallon buckets we spoke of earlier. Set the buckets to one side once they are full, as you will be adding the water back to the tank when it is cooler.

Fill some plastic Ziploc bags with ice cubes, and float them in the aquarium. You must use the plastic bags, as regular ice cubes would dilute the salinity of your tank water. Monitor the temperature of the water in the tank as well as the water in the buckets. Remove the ice cubes when the tank water has cooled to around its usual temperature, and pour the water from the buckets back into the tanks once it is cool enough.

If you experience a saltwater tank problem like the ones mentioned here, try to stay calm and remember the procedures outlined in this article. Just by knowing what to do can keep a saltwater tank emergency from becoming a possible disaster.

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Planted Nano Aquarium

For the fish-lover, there is nothing as beautiful and peaceful as an aquarium. It brightens up any room in which it is placed, as well as giving the owner a low-maintenance pet. However, not everyone has the space for a large tank. For these people, there is the option of purchasing a smaller aquarium, anywhere from 1 to 15 gallons. Although this size of tank, otherwise known as a “nano aquarium”, is harder to maintain, it is still a good choice for many people. They just need to remember a few simple things. The most important thing to keep in mind about a small aquarium is not to let it get overcrowded. Keep the fish small and don’t put too many in the tank. Otherwise, it will be difficult to maintain the water quality. Also, take into account the fact that smaller amounts of water change temperature more quickly, which can be stressful for fish. Therefore, try to place your nano aquarium somewhere that keeps a constant temperature year round. And remember that even a small tank can weigh a lot when full, so put it somewhere where it won’t need to be moved. In a small tank, water quality can decrease very quickly. It is therefore important to test it every day and change 10-20% of the water as often as twice a week. While doing these changes, vacuum a section of the gravel. If you are busy or just don’t want the hassle of changing your water so often, you could try EcoBio-Stone S. Simply place the stone in the water and it will keep your water clear and healthy for years with beneficial bacteria, which keep the water in the aquarium perfectly balanced by breaking down the toxic ammonia and nitrite from fish waste and uneaten food, and re-supplying trace minerals from the stone. Additionally, be sure to change your filter regularly or else it may leak toxins into the water. If you do notice an issue, attend to it quickly. In a nano aquarium, small problems multiply rapidly. If you wait even one day to take care of them, you may find that your entire system has crashed Another important factor to be considered with a small tank is the oxygen level. One way to keep it high is to agitate the surface of the water with a small filter. For even more oxygen, put live plants in your tank instead of artificial ones. However, be sure to choose ones that don’t require a lot of light or you may find your water temperature increasing too much. Finally, do not overfeed the fish in your nano aquarium. This can cause poor water quality and place stress on your fish. If you remember to do all of these things and use a time-released water maintenance product such as EcoBio-Stone you will be able to enjoy keeping fish even if you have limited space.

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