Aquarium and Pond Care with EcoBio-Block

Left: Nitrite level color chart
Right: Nitrate level color chart

Whether you have a freshwater or saltwater tank, nitrites and nitrates are something you are just going to have to deal with. Both of these substances are by-products of the nitrogen cycle so you can’t avoid having them in your tank but you should do your best to control them. If you let the nitrite or nitrate levels in your tank get out of control, it could have serious consequences for your fish. Luckily, controlling these substances is not a very difficult task – performing a few routine maintenance tasks and installing an EcoBio-Stone in your tank can make a huge difference.

Dangers of High Nitrite/Nitrate Levels

You may already be familiar with the dangers of ammonia poisoning but you may not realize that nitrite and nitrate can be just as dangerous for aquarium fish. In fact, nitrite poisoning is closely linked to ammonia poisoning because high levels of one are often linked to high levels of the other. Nitrite poisoning is often nicknamed “brown blood disease” because it results in increased levels of met hemoglobin in the blood of fish which can cause a brown discoloration. Discoloration of the blood is not the only problem associated with nitrite poisoning – this disease can also cause damage to the gills and inhibits the ability of blood cells to carry oxygen throughout the body. Fish suffering from nitrite poisoning may suffocate, even if the water in the tank has plenty of oxygen in it. Nitrite poisoning can also lead to stress in fish which can increase their susceptibility to disease – secondary infections like fin rot are common in fish that are already suffering from nitrite poisoning.

Though nitrate is less harmful than nitrite and ammonia, it can still be toxic for fish at high levels. The ideal level for nitrate in an aquarium is less than 30ppm, though most fish can tolerate levels up to 50ppm. When the nitrate levels in your tank reach 100ppm or higher, your fish will definitely start to feel the effects. Prolonged exposure to such high nitrate levels may cause increased stress, reduced reproductive capabilities and, in juvenile fish, stunted growth. In addition to affecting your fish, high nitrate levels in the tank could also contribute to increased algae growth. If algae growth is allowed to get out of control, it could have a negative impact on the water quality in your tank.

Tips for Control

As you know, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate are the by-products of the nitrogen cycle. As part of the nitrogen cycle, beneficial bacteria break down organic wastes like uneaten fish food and fish feces. It makes sense, then, that the less waste available in your tank, the lower the levels of ammonia, nitrite and nitrate will be. In order to minimize the amount of waste in your tank, make sure not to feed your fish more than necessary – only offer your fish as much as they can consume in 2 to 3 minutes and remove the uneaten portions of sinking wafers after an hour before they can fully dissolve. Another simple tip for controlling nitrite and nitrate in your tank is to install an EcoBio-Stone. These stones are made from volcanic stone and they are infused with beneficial bacteria as well as the nutrients they need to thrive. Adding extra beneficial bacteria to your tank through the EcoBio-Stone will help to maintain the nitrogen cycle, combatting high nitrite and nitrate levels in your tank. In combination with routine water changes, adding an EcoBio-Stone to your tank is an effective way to keep the water quality in your tank high and the nitrite/nitrate levels under control.

Cloudy fish tank water is one of the most common problems affecting novice and experienced aquarium hobbyists alike. This problem is not only common but it can also pop up unexpectedly – one day your tank could be perfectly clear and the next day it might look like you poured a cup of milk into the tank. Before you can remedy your tank’s problems with cloudy water, you need to learn the causes of this condition and explore the treatment options available.

Causes for Cloudy Fish Tank Water

Before you consider some of the more serious causes for cloudy tank water, you may want to check to be sure that it isn’t the result of something as simple as dirty substrate. If you do not thoroughly rinse your aquarium substrate before adding it to your tank it could not only introduce harmful contaminants into your tank but it could also cloud your tank water. Another possible cause for cloudy tank water is a bacterial bloom. When a sudden growth of bacteria results in a cloudy appearance in aquarium water, it is generally referred to as a bacterial bloom. These growths can occur suddenly and may be brought about by a variety of factors. If your tank has not cycled properly or if there is a significant accumulation of waste build-up in your substrate, your tank is likely to experience a bacterial bloom. In some cases, algae blooms can also cause cloudy tank water but these blooms generally turn the water green rather than milky white. Algae blooms are generally caused by excess lighting or carbon dioxide so controlling these elements in your tank will help to prevent an algae bloom.

Recommended Solutions

Many aquarium hobbyists assume that cloudy tank water can be remedied by replacing a large quantity of tank water. While removing the cloudy water from the tank might seem like a good idea, it may not solve the problem. Before you can solve your tank’s problems with cloudy water you need to determine its cause. Performing an aquarium water test should help you determine whether there is a chemical imbalance in your tank and, if there is, you will have a good idea what you need to do to fix it. High ammonia levels may indicate that your tank has not properly cycled or that organic waste is building up in the bottom of your tank. The simplest solution in either of these cases is to siphon your tank substrate, removing the accumulated debris. Once you have removed the accumulated debris you can replace the water you removed with fresh dechlorinated tap water. It may take a day or two for your tank to return to normal but, in most cases, this solution is sufficient to remedy problems with cloudy tank water.

Additional Tips and Tricks

If you want to ensure that your tank water stays clean and clear, think about adding an EcoBio-Stone to your freshwater tank. EcoBio-Stones are made from porous volcanic cement and they are infused with the beneficial bacteria your tank needs to maintain the nitrogen cycle. Once these bacteria are introduced into your tank, they will multiply and get to work breaking down waste products and eliminating harmful toxins like ammonia from your tank. Replacing your filter media once a month and testing your tank water on a weekly basis will also help to prevent a recurrence of cloudy tank water.

Measuring pH with a Meter

Water chemistry is a term used to describe the chemical and physical characteristics of tank water which can be measured using aquarium water test kits. Test kits are typically inexpensive and easy to use, making them an excellent tool for in-home use by aquarium hobbyists. These tests will help you to monitor the basic components of water chemistry – pH, water hardness and chemical content. While many species of freshwater fish are tolerant of a variety of tank conditions, it is always a good idea to keep an eye on the water chemistry in your tank. If the pH spikes or the water becomes too hard, your fish could become stressed and, as a result, could fall ill or even die. By learning the basics of water chemistry you can prevent such a disaster from happening in your tank.

Main Components of Water Chemistry

Perhaps the most important component of water chemistry is pH. PH is a measure of how acidic or alkaline the water in your tank is and it is measured on a scale from 0 to 14. A pH of 7.0 is considered neutral while anything above is alkaline and anything below is acidic. The recommended pH for a fish tank varies depending on the species of fish and the natural environment from which they come. Water hardness, or general hardness, is a measure of the concentration of dissolved ions in tank water. This hardness is measured in degrees – soft water typically measures between 0° and 3.36° degrees of general hardness (°GH) and hard water is between 6.78° and 10.08° GH. Another important aspect of water chemistry is buffering capacity – the ability of tank water to maintain a stable pH. When acids or bases are added to the tank, the buffering capacity of the water is what keeps the pH from spiking or dropping as a result of these additions. All aquariums are likely to contain trace amounts of chemicals and toxins such as ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Keeping an eye on the chemical levels in your tank is a good way to prevent ammonia poisoning and toxicity.

Testing Water Quality

Basic aquarium water test kits are available online and in pet stores, usually for $20 or less. These kits are easy to use and generally work in one of two ways. Some kits include test strips that you simply dip into a cup of tank water while others involve collecting individual water samples and adding drops of test solution. Once you have taken the samples, all you need to do is compare the color of the sample to the color chart included with the test kit in order to determine the measurement of whatever it is you are testing for. It is wise to perform water tests on a weekly basis and you should record the measurements in a journal in order to keep track of any changes.

Tips for Maintaining High Water Quality

The easiest and most effective way to keep the water quality in your tank high is to perform weekly 10% to 20% water changes. These water changes will help to control the waste build-up in your tank and will also ensure that your water chemistry stays stable. Another simple way to keep the water in your tank clean and the water chemistry stable is to introduce an EcoBio-Stone. These stones are made from porous volcanic cement and are infused with unique beneficial bacteria. Once introduced into the tank, these bacteria will multiply to form a colony of nitrifying bacteria which will help to maintain the nitrogen cycle. Placing the EcoBio-Stone will greatly reduce your maintenance needs – the bacteria will do most of the work in helping to keep your tank water clear and the water quality high.

By Robert Paul Hudson

Did you know there are ways to promote the growth of healthy nitrifying bacteria in the aquarium and things to avoid which will adversely affect bacteria?

There are many strains of the nitrifying bacteria species and each may have varying tolerances, but in general, the following information applies to all of them:

Temperature

Temperature plays a role in the growth rate of bacteria.

• 77-86° F (25-30° C)  is the temperature for optimum growth of nitrifying bacteria
• At 64° F (18° C) the growth rate is decreased by 50%
• At 46-50° F. Growth rate is decreased by 75%
• No activity will occur at 39° F (4° C)
• Nitrifying bacteria will die at 32° F (0° C).
• Nitrifying bacteria will die at 120° F (49° C)

In cold water systems, careful attention should be given to monitor the levels of nitrite.

pH

The optimum pH range for Nitrosomonas is between 7.8-8.0, and for Nitrobacter is between 7.3-7.5. Below these ranges growth is slowed down. All nitrification ceases at a pH of 6.0 or lower. Ammonia levels should be closely monitored at a pH of 6.5 or lower.

Dissolved Oxygen

Oxygen levels have a direct effect on nitrifying bacteria. At very low levels the bacteria basically become inactive.  The bacteria reach their highest level of nitrification when dissolved oxygen levels reach 80% saturation.

Micronutrients

Just like plant life, bacteria need nutrients to feed on for energy and growth. Many micronutrients are used by bacteria including phosphorus which plays an important role in the conversion of ATP to energy for cellular functions. Phosphorus is usually present in the form of phosphate in tap water and from decaying fish foods or other decaying organic material, but if your aquarium has no measurable level of phosphate it would be a good idea to introduce a small amount by way of phosphoric acid, mono-sodium phosphate or di-sodium phosphate.

Other micronutrients, (minerals) are normally found in ample levels in tap water. RO, deionized, or distilled water that is completely stripped of all minerals is inhibitory to nitrifying bacteria. It is important if using this type of water to replenish the water with mineral salts for the overall health of the aquatic system.

You can use products like the EcoBio-Block line, which contain special beneficial bacteria (bacillus subtilis natto) that are already packaged with the micronutrients they need to keep levels of good bacteria high and cloudy water and odor non-existent. These bacterium can survive from the strong acid of pH 3 to the strong alkali of pH 11, and are active in temperatures from 50° F to 149° F.

Nitrifying bacteria play an important role in keeping a healthy and balanced aquarium, but are also dependent on a balanced environment in order to function and grow- as all life is.