Aquarium and Pond Care and EcoBio-Block

One of the main concerns with having tropical fish is the diseases they can contract.  There are many different kinds of tropical fish diseases, most of which have treatments to remedy them.  It is certainly best to have your fish avoid the diseases in the first place, but even with good management, your fish may not always be able to avoid disease.

One type of tropical fish disease is ammonia poisoning.  As the name implies, there is too high a level of ammonia in your tank.  The main symptoms of ammonia poisoning are your fish turning a red-lilac color and they’re floating below the surface panting for air.

The remedy for ammonia poisoning is relatively simple to implement, but it’s important to do this right away or your fish’s health may be compromised on a long-term basis.  You need to understand the cycling process of a new tank to limit the ammonia level of the water, as well as to maintain the pH levels and water temperature of the tank.

An additional help is the EcoBio-Block, which can be very effective in keeping your tank from experiencing ammonia spikes that can cause harm to your fish.

Yet, another type of tropical fish disease is cataracts.  Eye-related infections are often caused by the level of waste in your tank.  Cataracts are usually just fungal growths covering the eyes.  Normal aquarium fungicide is usually a very effective form of treatment for cataracts.

To keep your fish from getting cataracts, it’s important to keep the levels of ammonia and nitrate at acceptable levels.  You can also use the EcoBio-Block products to effectively keep ammonia and nitrate levels at levels that are safe for your fish.

Corneybacteriosis is commonly referred to as bulging eyes because it looks like the fish who have corneybacteriosis have bulging eyes.  Additionally, these fish have swelling in their heads.

Corneybacteriosis is usually caused by a large amount of waste in the tank, which is often caused by having too many fish in the tank.  Keeping the level of waste at a low level is the best defense against your fish contracting corneybacteriosis.  Utilizing EcoBio-Blocks in your tank can establish the nitrogen cycle and keep your water clean and pure, thereby reducing the chances of your fish contracting corneybacteriosis.

Goldfish with dropsy

Another common tropical fish disease is dropsy.  Dropsy makes your fish look bloated and their scales appear to be bursting outward.  Dropsy is usually caused by an internal bacterial infection.

It is important to treat dropsy as quickly as possible; otherwise, further internal damage to your fish could be the result.  Anti-bacterial medication can help to treat the infection, along with raising the aquarium water temperature slightly over the next few weeks.

Ichthyophthiriasis, or what is commonly known as ich, ich is a type of tropical fish disease that is indicated by small white spots covering the fish’s body and fins.  A type of parasite is responsible for causing ich.

Cichlid with ich

Treatment for ich involves gradually raising the water temperature to prevent the spread of the parasites that cause ich.  Once the water becomes clear again, then lower the water temperature back to its previous level.  Anti-ich medication can also be helpful, as this will break the cycle of ich and treat the disease in the water.

As you can see, the main keys to preventing tropical fish diseases is paying attention to your fish and their normal appearances, keeping your aquarium’s ammonia and nitrate levels at acceptable levels, and keeping your water clear. Utilizing the line of Eco-Bio Block products (which need to be removed when using medications), can speed up the nitrogen cycle, minimize the number of times you need to change the aquarium water, and revitalize and clarify the water to avoid tropical fish diseases.

Using an aquarium vacuum for partial water change

One of the first things a novice aquarium owner hears from fish-keeping friends and/or pet store personnel is the need for partial water changes of about 20 percent every few weeks, preferably on the same day of the week so as to have a set interval each time. This news may cause the new owner of an aquarium some apprehension, as they look at the size of their tank and try to figure out just how they are going to change the water without making a big mess.

You have tank owners who do this the hard way. They catch their fish, which can often take a while, and place them in a bucket already filled with water from the tank. Next, they dip out all the water by hand, using a bucket or some other container to do so. They then remove all of the wet, often smelly gravel by hand as well.

By the time the inside walls of the aquarium are spotless, the filter has been cleaned, the gravel rinsed clean, and the water replaced either by walking back and forth from the nearest faucet with a heavy bucket of water, splashing it here and there, or by pulling a garden hose inside, the typical aquarium owner is exhausted.

Other tank owners take a shortcut, which eliminates a good portion of the tank maintenance work. They make use of an aquarium vacuum when they take care of their partial water changes every 21 days or so. The typical aquarium vacuum attaches to a faucet indoors or out, and removes the water with the help of the water pressure from the faucet.

A tube is attached to one end of the aquarium vacuum, and can be pushed into deep gravel to suck out all the mulm waste and uneaten food, leaving cleaner gravel behind. Typically, the entire gravel bed is cleaned in this manner, then the filter medium is changed, and water is re-added to the aquarium.

There are some people who are new to the hobby of keeping fish that assume if taking 20 percent of the water out of the tank, then doing a partial water change of 50 percent or more would be even better. Unfortunately, these folks learn the hard way that removing too much water from an aquarium is not a good thing to do.

Aquarium water has a different chemistry after fish have lived in it for a period of time. Uneaten fish food and the waste products excreted by the fish cause these changes. The fish get used to the water chemistry. When too much of this ìlived inî water is removed, the fish cannot cope with the change, and become quite stressed. The weaker fish will die, often just a short time after they are placed back into the freshly cleaned aquarium. Hardier fish will live longer, perhaps for a few weeks or a couple of months before they also die.

Those uninitiated in fish keeping will swear that their partial water change killed their fish, and harbor the belief that doing partial water changes is not a good thing. They firmly believe that partial water changes should not be done at all if you want your fish to stay alive!

A much easier solution for solving the problem is to make use of the EcoBio-Block family of products. The EcoBio-Block is made from a distinctive type of volcanic rock that has been populated with live, friendly bacteria. These bacteria will grow and reproduce for a two-year period of time as they feed on the uneaten food and fish waste. This helps to keep the water crystal clear and free from odor, and makes frequent water changes unnecessary. You will have much more free time to enjoy the antics of your fish in your beautifully clean aquarium when you use an EcoBio-Block.

You’ve spent a lot of money and time picking out the right fish for your aquarium and you think you’ve got it just right. Then you start losing some valuable fish. How does this happen and what can you do to prevent this tragedy?

There can be a lot of reasons why your fish are dying. Generally, it happens when a fish tank is new. It pays to buy an aquarium water test kit to determine how much ammonia, nitrites and nitrates are in the aquarium, and how high or low the pH is. These are the four most important tests for your tank.

In the nitrogen cycle of the fish tank, an important biological cycle, the fish give off nitrogenous wastes when they eliminate and these products break down into ammonia, which is very toxic to most fishes. In aquariums, this nitrogen product can build up into levels that are harmful to your fish. When you measure the ammonia level, it should be negligible.

The nitrogen cycle, is the process of getting rid of ammonia using nitrifying bacteria that convert the ammonia to nitrite and then to nitrate, which is not as hazardous. The cycle goes from ammonia to nitrite to nitrate. These bacteria are present everywhere and establish themselves eventually in your fish tank as soon as the ammonia builds up. It is a slow process, however, and you can lose fish in the meantime.

One way of improving the nitrogen status of your aquarium is to purchase an EcoBio-Block Products that contains the nitrifying bacteria within the block. You rinse the block and soak it in chlorine free water over night before placing it in your tank. Normally, in a few weeks or so, you can have your ammonia levels drop followed by drops in nitrite levels. You can safely put your fish in then and expect that they will survive.

The other thing is to take a couple of hardy and cheap fish and put them in your tank. Don’t overfeed the fish. More food means that more ammonia will build up. For freshwater fish, try some zebra danios or some barbs. For saltwater tanks, use damselfish. Don’t use feeder fish for your tank as they can introduce unwanted diseases in your tank. The initial cheap fish you put into the tank get the nitrogen cycle going and you can then add more delicate and expensive fish to your tank.

Use your test kit to determine the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate level in your tank and use this as a guide for how healthy your tank is. It takes time for the bacteria to develop unless you are using a EcoBio-Stone to speed up the nitrification process.

Poor pH can also be a cause of a loss of fish. The pH is a measure of how acidic or how alkaline a fish tank is. Ideally, the pH should be around 7.0, which is “neutral”. However, fish can generally tolerate pH of 5.5 to 8.0. You can get a test strip to measure the level and if you need to change it, look at ways to change the pH slowly.

If your water contains buffers, you will not be able to change the pH very easily. Remember, too, that fish can tolerate a wide range of pH levels but do not tolerate sudden changes in pH.  Sometimes it’s better to leave the pH alone as long as your fish are thriving.

If you still think you need to adjust the pH, one way to lower it slowly is to add some driftwood to your fish tank or to the tank. A cleaned off seashell or coral skeleton will gradually increase the pH of your aquarium. The downside of both these solutions is that they will stain the color of the water brown or yellow for quite a while, but it will alter the pH in a safe way.

Maintain your tank well and you can have a healthy, happy fish population.

Betta Fish

If you have been in a pet store or any type of store that sells live pet fish, you have probably seen a display of small glass or plastic bowls or containers in the fish department. A closer look will reveal that each bowl or container holds a brightly colored fish with beautiful long, flowing fins. A nearby sign tells you that these are male Betta fish.

Betta Fish have the scientific name of Betta splendens, and are also known as Siamese Fighting Fish. The Betta originated in Thailand, and has been selectively bred for a long period of time in that country as well as in Southeast Asia. The goal of these breeders is to produce Betta fish that have stamina as well as the aggressive nature needed for fighting. Fighting ability is prized in the Betta, especially in their native countries, where people enjoy gambling on which male Betta will win a bout.

Betta Fish usually live for two or three years, with some reaching the age of five. The male Betta is the sex commonly kept as a pet. Female Bettas are smaller and have shorter fins than the males, although they do retain the gorgeous coloration that Bettas are noted for. Females also do not usually have the confrontational nature attributed to males. It is not unusual to see males only for sale in a pet shop, which is a shame. Female Bettas make delightful pets with great personalities, which is probably why more and more stores have decided to add the female to their inventory.

It is understood that you should not attempt to keep a male and a female Betta together full time. Females can be just as spunky as the males, and a fight could ensue unless it is breeding season. When the male Betta builds what is known as a bubble nest, he is trying to attract a female for breeding. If the female Betta is introduced to the tank when the nest is visible, breeding can take place. The bubbles are fashioned out of mucus, and are sticky. This allows the female’s eggs to stay in the nest.

Betta fish need a diet that is high in protein, but can get tired of eating the same food day after day. The key here is variety. There are freeze-dried products such as brine shrimp that are highly suitable for Bettas. If you should notice that your Betta is having trouble keeping his balance in the water, he could very well be constipated. Feeding tiny bits of a cooked pea over a period of one to two days is usually sufficient to banish this problem.

Many people keep their Betta in a large fish bowl or tank without any type of filtration. Unlike other commonly kept aquarium fish, the Betta does not need a filter to breathe. Nature has equipped the Betta with a labyrinth organ that allows them to get oxygen from the air above the surface of the water. If you do decide to use a filter in your Betta tank, make sure that the current from the filter is not too strong. Bettas detest the moving water that filtration creates, and a strong current can negatively affect their health.

These fish enjoy a water temperature of 78 to 80 degrees. A small, 25 watt heater can be used in Betta tanks that hold about a gallon of water. Larger tanks can of course use larger heaters. If you are keeping your Betta in a smaller tank or bowl, try to situate it in a warm room beneath a light so that the heat from the bulb can help heat the water.

You should clean your Betta bowl or tank on a weekly basis. Seasoned Betta owners will do a partial water change, removing around 20 to 30 percent of the water. Never change all of the water at once, as the shock can kill your Betta. Cloudy water can be a problem in Betta tanks. There are many remedies for this on the market, but with each of them, fully changing the water is necessary after treatment. Instead of using one of these remedies, why not use an EcoBio-Stone S to keep your Betta water clear as crystal?

The EcoBio Block family of products includes the EcoBio-Stone S and EcoBio-Pebbles, which are perfect for a small Betta tank or bowl. What do these stone do? They are infused with friendly bacteria, which reproduce for two years or longer. These bacteria are responsible for keeping the water in your Betta home clear and clean smelling. By using the EcoBio-Stone, the need for tank maintenance is lessened a great deal. Why not try the EcoBio-Stone S or EcoBio-Pebbles for your Betta today?

It’s easy to see that aquariums for kids are always extremely popular. For proof, take a look anytime you are out in public where aquariums are located. Doctor’s offices, especially pediatricians, often have aquariums, and you will usually see kids flocked around the tank observing the fish as they wait for their appointments. Pet stores are another place where you will see children. They will be gathered around the assorted aquariums and enjoying the swimming fish, seemingly hypnotized by them. This love of aquariums for kids can also extend into your home. You may even choose to place a fish tank in your child’s room.

There are several things that parents of these children who enjoy observing the aquatic life that goes on in fish tanks should know before bringing an aquarium into their home. Too many parents believe that caring for the aquarium should be the child’s responsibility. While this is true, very young children will not be able to do what is required, and also have a tendency to overfeed the fish without close supervision. Parental homework is necessary to avoid a fishy tragedy that could traumatize an impressionable child.

What should you know before bringing an aquarium for your kids into your home? First of all, don’t assume that because your child is small, a larger aquarium would not be suitable for them. Parents need to know that the bigger the tank, the better! Though most aquarium novices don’t realize it, the fact is that larger aquariums are easier to maintain than the small ones that hold less than ten gallons of water.

If the aquarium will be in the child’s room, or in a room where playtime takes place, you may want to think twice about purchasing a tank made from glass, which of course is breakable. An acrylic aquarium is much more suited for a space where children will be present.

You will of course want tank decor. Children enjoy and appreciate bright colors, and you will find many of these colors when shopping for gravel and plants. It is better for all concerned to choose tank decor that is similar in color to the areas that fish in the wild call home. The fish will be happier, and there will be less of a chance that a child will be tempted to remove any of the decor because the color appeals to them.

Now that you have brought home your aquarium and its accessories, don’t give in to your children’s pleas to go and buy fish for it immediately! Water quality is crucial when it comes to a healthy environment for fish. In order to create that environment, the tank must be set up and the filter allowed to operate for several days. This gives the water a chance to aerate, and also helps the temperature in the tank to stabilize.

The size of the aquarium you chose will dictate how many fish you will be able to add to it. The general rule for newbies to the aquarium hobby is one inch of fish for every gallon of water. However, at first, you only need three inexpensive fish like goldfish to help your tank cycle. After three weeks, you can then add more fish if your water quality is of sufficiently good quality.

If you are using tap water to fill your new aquarium, you will need to add a product that removes the chlorine, ammonia and other matter from the water. There are many such products available, both in liquid and tablet form. One product that will save you much tank maintenance time, and also help you to reduce the length of time you will have “New Tank Syndrome” is the EcoBio-Block Products. It is a perfect accessory to add to aquariums for kids. There are good bacteria living in these blocks, which help to keep the tank water crystal clear and odor free. These bacteria grow and multiply for a two-year period of time, keeping the water quality as well as the fish healthy. If you want an aquarium for kids that is always inviting and clean, check out the EcoBio-Block.