Aquarium and Pond Care with EcoBio-Block

One of the most common problems new aquarium owners experience is unwanted algae growth. Algae growth is natural in the home aquarium and a small amount of it provides a healthy food source for fish and invertebrates. If algae growth is allowed to go uncontrolled, however, it can take over your tank and cause a number of problems. In addition to being unsightly, excess algae can decrease water quality which may in turn cause your fish to become stressed or to fall ill. One of the simplest ways to control algae growth in your tank is to introduce an algae eater.

Choosing an Algae Eater

When it comes to selecting an algae eater for your tank there are several options to choose from. Before you visit the pet store, however, there are a few things you should keep in mind. An algae eater is different from a bottom feeder – these two types of fish are both useful in the home aquarium but they serve different purposes. Bottom feeders primarily feed on uneaten fish food and sinking pellets. While some algae eaters perform this function as well, many are known for their suction cup-like mouths that enable them to clean algae off the glass and decorations in your tank.

Types of Algae Eaters

Pleco Fish

One of the most well-known types of algae eater is the plecostomus, often called the pleco. These fish are a species of semi-aggressive catfish and, provided enough space and food, they can grow to two feet in length. This type of algae eater is recommended for large tanks where they can be kept individually or with a small number of community fish. Another type of catfish, the Otocinclus affinis (Oto cat), is another popular algae eater. These fish generally stay under two inches in size which makes them the perfect algae eater for small aquariums. Oto cats are typically not aggressive so they do well in community tanks.

Another popular species of algae eater is the Siamese algae eater, or Crossocheilus oblongus. These fish are typically friendly, though as they age they may become aggressive toward others of their own species. Siamese algae eaters are unique among algae eaters because they feed on the red algae that many other algae eaters tend to avoid. Gyrinocheilus, or Chinese algae eaters, have large suction-cup mouths and can grow up to ten inches long. Though generally friendly in their youth, older fish of this species can become territorial and aggressive.

Tips for Keeping Algae at Bay

While introducing an algae eater into your tank is one of the easiest ways to control algae growth there are several other things you can do. Keep your tank out of direct sunlight and perform regular water changes to keep the water quality in the tank high. You can also install an EcoBio-Stone in your tank which will maintain good water quality and help to keep your tank clean and algae-free. EcoBio-Stones are made from porous volcanic stones and cement and are infused with special beneficial bacteria that multiply in your tank, working to break down wastes and speed up the nitrogen cycle. Combined with an algae eater and routine maintenance, an EcoBio-Stone is an easy way to keep your tank free of unwanted algae.

Quarantine tank with EcoBio-Stone S

When one of your fish falls ill it may only be a matter of time before the disease spreads to your other tank inhabitants. For this reason it is extremely important for you to keep an eye out for the early symptoms of disease. If you catch the disease early enough you will be able to quarantine the sick fish in a hospital tank to ensure a speedy recovery and to prevent your other fish from falling ill. A hospital tank, or quarantine tank, is a fairly basic set-up and it is generally easy to maintain.

Setting Up the Tank

Because you will usually keep just one fish in the hospital tank at a time it does not need to be large – 10 gallons is a sufficient size. The bottom of the tank should be kept bare of gravel or other substrate to facilitate easy cleaning and to prevent the build-up of disease-harboring bacteria. Do not over-decorate the tank – simply provide a few plants or an overturned terra cotta pot to give your fish places to hide. Hospital tanks have very few requirements other than clean water and adequate filtration but you need to choose wisely when selecting a filter for your tank. Power filters that have a low setting are generally recommended for hospital tanks because they provide both chemical and mechanical filtration without creating a current powerful enough to disturb your sick fish.

Using a Hospital Tank

When you notice the symptoms of disease beginning to manifest in your tank, set up your hospital tank as quickly as possible. Use as much water from the original tank as you can when filling the hospital tank in order to decrease the amount of stress your fish experience in switching tanks. Use an in-tank thermometer to monitor and control the water temperature in the tank and administer whatever medications your fish require on a regular basis.

Other Tips for Hospital Tanks

If you have a large tank with many fish, it may be wise to set up a permanent hospital tank. By doing this you can rest assured that if one of your fish happens to fall ill you will not be putting the rest of your fish at risk by delaying the removal of the sick fish from the tank. A hospital tank can also be used as a quarantine tank when you bring new fish home from the pet store. To prevent the spread of disease you should always quarantine new fish for at least seven days. This will ensure that the new fish do not pass an existing illness on to your other fish.

A quick and easy way to ensure that the water in your hospital tank stays clean and clear is to use an EcoBio-Stone. EcoBio-Stones are made from porous volcanic rock and cement block and they are infused with nutrients and beneficial bacteria designed to keep your tank healthy. Once introduced into your tank, these beneficial bacteria will multiply and work to speed up the nitrogen cycle, keeping your tank water clean and clear. Not only do EcoBi0-Block products help keep your tank healthy, they also reduce the amount of routine maintenance required.

No matter how careful you are in caring for your aquarium fish, the chances are good that you will eventually experience the outbreak of some kind of disease. By acting quickly in setting up and utilizing a hospital tank, however, you can effectively curtail the spread of this disease. Learning how to set up a hospital tank, and then putting that knowledge to use, is a simple way to ensure that your sick fish recover quickly and your other fish do not fall ill.

Platy fry

While several species of freshwater aquarium fish breed readily under a variety of circumstances, some have specific requirements that must be met before they are likely to spawn. The basics of breeding, however, are fairly uniform among most species of freshwater aquarium fish. The first thing you must do is to select a breeding pair, or a trio for some species, and quarantine them in a breeding tank. Once you have done so, you can begin the process of conditioning your fish for breeding.

Setting Up a Breeding Tank

The size of the breeding tank should depend on the size of the fish, but ten to twenty gallons is usually sufficient. The tank should be bare-bottomed in order to make it easier to clean and it should be decorated sparsely. It is wise to provide a few hiding places like large rocks or terra cotta pots in the event that the female needs a place to rest and recover from the male’s aggressive advances. Some species – egg-layers in particular – prefer a breeding tank stocked with live plants on which they will deposit their eggs.

Encouraging Your Fish to Spawn

Maintaining a steady temperature and providing a healthy, varied diet are two of the most important elements in encouraging your fish to spawn. The temperature of the breeding tank should be determined by the breed of fish but, in many cases, slowly raising the temperature encourages breeding behavior. In some species, however, the opposite is true. Corydoras catfish, for example, typically spawn after a recent rainfall has lowered the temperature in their native habitat, the Amazon River.

Offer your fish a varied diet consisting of small amounts of live, frozen, flake and pellets foods several times a day in order to condition them for breeding. After a few days you should begin to notice courtship and spawning behavior. The male of the species will often chase the female around the tank and some fish, like betta fish, will prepare a bubble nest and collect the eggs after spawning has occurred.

Caring for Fry

Some species of fish, such as cichlids, care for their fry after they have hatched but most freshwater fish are more likely to eat their own young. This being the case, it is wise to remove the parents from the breeding tank as soon as possible after spawning has occurred. If you are breeding an egg-laying species, dose the tank with methylene blue to prevent fungus from killing the eggs. Install a sponge filter in the corner of the tank to provide filtration without putting the fry at risk for being sucked up an intake valve.

For the first few days after hatching, the fry of most egg-laying species will subsist on the remainder of their yolk sacs. The fry of live-bearing species, however, should be started on a diet of newly hatched brine shrimp or a liquid fry food such as infusoria. During the first few weeks after hatching it is important to feed the fry small amounts several times a day. Once they have tripled in size you may begin to feed them finely crushed flake foods and, as they continue to grow, move them to a larger tank.

Tips for Breeding Success

If your fish are not in prime condition, they will be unlikely to spawn. In addition to a healthy diet, clean water is essential to the health and well-being of your fish. Establishing a colony of beneficial bacteria in your tank is one of the best ways to keep the water quality in your tank high. Install an EcoBio-Stone to begin a colony of nitrifying bacteria that will help to remove odor, break down wastes, and keep the water clear. EcoBio-Stones are made of natural volcanic rock infused with beneficial bacteria that will multiply readily upon being introduced into your tank. Not only is this product perfect for the breeding tank, but it can also be used in fry tanks where power filters are not recommended due to the danger they pose toward delicate fry.

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Tropical Freshwater Aquarium

When it comes to the home aquarium, many people do not realize that there are more than two options: freshwater or saltwater. These two categories contain a number of different options for the experienced aquarium hobbyist to explore. The tropical community tank is generally recommended for novice aquarium hobbyists but those who have a great deal of experience with fishkeeping may enjoy moving on to the challenge of a coldwater or brackish aquarium. Along with the challenge of a new type of freshwater aquarium come new species of fish, new options for decorations and greater satisfaction.
Tropical Freshwater Aquariums

Many aquarium hobbyists choose the tropical freshwater aquarium because it is relatively inexpensive and easy to maintain. While saltwater tanks require specialized equipment like protein skimmers, most tropical freshwater tanks require only a submersible aquarium heater, filter and lighting. Most of this equipment can be programmed, making it a virtually hands-free system even the most inexperienced aquarium hobbyist can use without difficulty. In addition to these benefits, tropical freshwater fish are relatively easy to find in stores and there is, in general, a greater variety from which to choose in this category than in other categories of freshwater fish.
Coldwater Aquariums

Goldfish are the most commonly recognized species of coldwater fish but certain species of barbs, tetras and danios can tolerate water temperatures in the low 60’s as can guppies, white clouds and loaches. While some of these fish are not as brightly colored as the more popular tropical species, it may be worth it to simplify the aquarium set-up by eliminating the need for heating equipment. Just because an aquarium heater is not necessary, however, does not always mean that coldwater tanks are easier to manage than tropical freshwater tanks. You may need to purchase an aquarium chiller to keep the water temperature low enough for some species and some fish have specific needs that may require extra equipment. Goldfish, for example, have one of the highest waste outputs of any species of freshwater fish and require highly-oxygenated water which may necessitate an extra filter or an aerator.

Adding an EcoBio-Stone or EcoBio-Planter to your coldwater tank is an easy way to help keep a tank full of goldfish clean. EcoBio products are made from natural volcanic stone and are infused with beneficial bacteria. After being introduced into your tank, these bacteria multiply to create a colony of nitrifying bacteria which will help to break down wastes, keeping the water in your tank clean and clear between routine water changes for approximately 2 years.
Brackish Water Aquariums

The word brackish refers to a mix of saltwater and freshwater and it describes the type of aquatic environment found in estuaries, coastal streams and saltwater swamps. When it comes to setting up a brackish tank, the necessary equipment is generally the same as for a tropical freshwater tank – filter, heater and lighting. Where a brackish aquarium differs from a typical tropical freshwater tank is in the tank environment. Brackish aquariums are usually filled with a dark substrate like sand and live plants and driftwood which are the staples of brackish tank décor.

In order to create a true brackish environment, salt must be added to the water to achieve a specific gravity between 1.002 and 1.025 depending on the fish you plan to raise. Some popular species of brackish aquarium fish include swordtails, mollies, loaches, gobies and catfish. While several plants commonly used in tropical freshwater aquariums can survive in a brackish environment, plants like cabomba, vallisneria and mangroves are best-suited for this type of tank. Brackish water aquariums may be more difficult to care for than a simple tropical freshwater tank, but experienced aquarium hobbyists may appreciate the challenge.