Aquarium and Pond Care with EcoBio-Block

Once you have successfully built and set up your outdoor pond you may think that the hard part is over. While building your pond may indeed be the most difficult part of the process, you should also put a considerable amount of effort toward selecting the fish for your pond. You cannot simply go to the pet store and purchase a dozen feeder goldfish and expect them to thrive in your pond. There are only a few types of fish that are suited to living in outdoor ponds and each variety has certain requirements. Before you purchase the fish for your pond, perform some basic research to decide which type of pond fish is best for you and for your pond size.

Types of Pond Fish

Colorful koi

When it comes to outdoor ponds, koi are the most well-known species of ornamental fish used for stock. Koi come in a variety of shapes and colors including black, gold, red and orange. These fish look similar to goldfish but grow much larger and exhibit a wider variety of shapes in their fins and bodies. Because they grow to be quite large, koi require a pond capacity of at least 1000 gallons in order to thrive. These fish also require a variegated diet including fresh vegetables, fruit and specially formulated koi foods.

Goldfish come in a variety of shapes and colors which makes them a popular choice as a pond fish. Some of the most popular varieties of goldfish include Comets, Shubunkins and Orandas. Comets come in red, orange and white varieties – the calico varieties are called Shubunkin Comets. Orandas are a type of fancy goldfish known for the prominent hood that develops on top of its head.  In general, goldfish are a hearty species which does well in ponds with adequate filtration and aeration. Most goldfish prefer peaceful or slow-moving water and require a pond capacity of 250 gallons or more to thrive.

Precautions to Take with Pond Fish

Just as you should exercise caution when stocking your home aquarium, be careful when selecting the fish for your pond. Some species can grow very large or may become aggressive around other species. By doing some research before you purchase your pond fish you can prevent a disaster from happening later. Comets, for example, can be aggressive and should not be mixed with most other types of pond fish aside from koi. Goldfish and Orandas are generally peaceful species that can get along with a variety of species.

Tips for Keeping your Pond Healthy

A healthy pond requires routine maintenance in order to keep water quality high. Because goldfish and other pond fish are notoriously high producers of waste, adequate filtration is key to maintaining water quality. To give your pond a boost, consider installing one or more EcoBio-Block Waves. These blocks are infused with beneficial bacteria that multiply naturally to establish a colony in your pond. Once established, this colony of beneficial bacteria will help to break down organic waste products, remove odors and clarify cloudy pond water. While you should still maintain proper filtration and execute regular maintenance procedures, an EcoBio-Block Wave can help to keep your pond clean and healthy for your fish.

Many inexperienced aquarium hobbyists make the mistake of selecting the fish for their planted tank on a whim. They simply walk into the pet store, purchase a few species that they like and take them home. If you follow this method you may find that after a few days in your tank, or even a few hours, your fish will have devoured all of the plants you worked so hard to raise. In order to avoid this kind of disaster you should perform some basic research to determine which species of aquarium fish are not likely to eat the plants in your tank.

Types of Fish That Eat Aquarium Plants

While many species of aquarium fish are likely to nibble on the plants in your aquarium, some are capable of decimating your entire planted aquarium in a matter of hours. Silver dollar fish, for example, are particularly notorious plant eaters. Other species like mollies and swordtails may nibble at your plants but will rarely do any major damage. Though they may not actually eat your aquarium plants, some larger species like gouramis and cichlids may uproot and break apart the plants in your tank and algae eaters may chew holes in them.

Species of Fish Safe for Planted Tanks

If you have taken the time to cultivate a planted tank you should also make the effort to ensure that the fish you add to your tank will not destroy all of your hard work. Most small, community species of fish pose no threat to aquarium plants. Barbs, tetras, danios and guppies are all unlikely to do anything more than pick flakes of food from the leaves of aquarium plants. Even some of the slightly larger species like discus, killifish and dwarf gouramis are safe for planted tanks. Other species that are recommended for planted tanks include corydoras catfish, platties, gobies, minnows and betta fish.

Tips for Maintaining a Planted Tank

Healthy Planted Tank

There are many benefits to cultivating live aquarium plants in your tank. Not only do live plants enhance the aesthetic appeal of your tank but they can also increase the oxygen level and help filter out harmful toxins. In order to keep your aquarium plants healthy you need to provide a healthy aquarium environment. To create this type of environment you will need adequate light, nutrition and filtration.

In addition to these three things there is something else you can do to keep your tank a clean, healthy environment for your plants and fish. Introduce an EcoBio-Planter to your mid-size aquarium as a simple way to remove odors and clarify your tank water (for larger tanks, simply add another planter or a stone). EcoBio-Planters are made from natural zeolite and crushed stone which has been infused with beneficial bacteria. Once introduced to your tank, these bacteria will multiply and establish a colony that will then work to break down wastes, remove odors and speed up the nitrogen cycle. EcoBio-Planter is also terrific for your plants. Simply place a small root ball in the opening and the plant will grow and thrive, greatly adding to the beauty of your planted aquarium.

One of the most common problems new aquarium owners experience is unwanted algae growth. Algae growth is natural in the home aquarium and a small amount of it provides a healthy food source for fish and invertebrates. If algae growth is allowed to go uncontrolled, however, it can take over your tank and cause a number of problems. In addition to being unsightly, excess algae can decrease water quality which may in turn cause your fish to become stressed or to fall ill. One of the simplest ways to control algae growth in your tank is to introduce an algae eater.

Choosing an Algae Eater

When it comes to selecting an algae eater for your tank there are several options to choose from. Before you visit the pet store, however, there are a few things you should keep in mind. An algae eater is different from a bottom feeder – these two types of fish are both useful in the home aquarium but they serve different purposes. Bottom feeders primarily feed on uneaten fish food and sinking pellets. While some algae eaters perform this function as well, many are known for their suction cup-like mouths that enable them to clean algae off the glass and decorations in your tank.

Types of Algae Eaters

Pleco Fish

One of the most well-known types of algae eater is the plecostomus, often called the pleco. These fish are a species of semi-aggressive catfish and, provided enough space and food, they can grow to two feet in length. This type of algae eater is recommended for large tanks where they can be kept individually or with a small number of community fish. Another type of catfish, the Otocinclus affinis (Oto cat), is another popular algae eater. These fish generally stay under two inches in size which makes them the perfect algae eater for small aquariums. Oto cats are typically not aggressive so they do well in community tanks.

Another popular species of algae eater is the Siamese algae eater, or Crossocheilus oblongus. These fish are typically friendly, though as they age they may become aggressive toward others of their own species. Siamese algae eaters are unique among algae eaters because they feed on the red algae that many other algae eaters tend to avoid. Gyrinocheilus, or Chinese algae eaters, have large suction-cup mouths and can grow up to ten inches long. Though generally friendly in their youth, older fish of this species can become territorial and aggressive.

Tips for Keeping Algae at Bay

While introducing an algae eater into your tank is one of the easiest ways to control algae growth there are several other things you can do. Keep your tank out of direct sunlight and perform regular water changes to keep the water quality in the tank high. You can also install an EcoBio-Stone in your tank which will maintain good water quality and help to keep your tank clean and algae-free. EcoBio-Stones are made from porous volcanic stones and cement and are infused with special beneficial bacteria that multiply in your tank, working to break down wastes and speed up the nitrogen cycle. Combined with an algae eater and routine maintenance, an EcoBio-Stone is an easy way to keep your tank free of unwanted algae.

Quarantine tank with EcoBio-Stone S

When one of your fish falls ill it may only be a matter of time before the disease spreads to your other tank inhabitants. For this reason it is extremely important for you to keep an eye out for the early symptoms of disease. If you catch the disease early enough you will be able to quarantine the sick fish in a hospital tank to ensure a speedy recovery and to prevent your other fish from falling ill. A hospital tank, or quarantine tank, is a fairly basic set-up and it is generally easy to maintain.

Setting Up the Tank

Because you will usually keep just one fish in the hospital tank at a time it does not need to be large – 10 gallons is a sufficient size. The bottom of the tank should be kept bare of gravel or other substrate to facilitate easy cleaning and to prevent the build-up of disease-harboring bacteria. Do not over-decorate the tank – simply provide a few plants or an overturned terra cotta pot to give your fish places to hide. Hospital tanks have very few requirements other than clean water and adequate filtration but you need to choose wisely when selecting a filter for your tank. Power filters that have a low setting are generally recommended for hospital tanks because they provide both chemical and mechanical filtration without creating a current powerful enough to disturb your sick fish.

Using a Hospital Tank

When you notice the symptoms of disease beginning to manifest in your tank, set up your hospital tank as quickly as possible. Use as much water from the original tank as you can when filling the hospital tank in order to decrease the amount of stress your fish experience in switching tanks. Use an in-tank thermometer to monitor and control the water temperature in the tank and administer whatever medications your fish require on a regular basis.

Other Tips for Hospital Tanks

If you have a large tank with many fish, it may be wise to set up a permanent hospital tank. By doing this you can rest assured that if one of your fish happens to fall ill you will not be putting the rest of your fish at risk by delaying the removal of the sick fish from the tank. A hospital tank can also be used as a quarantine tank when you bring new fish home from the pet store. To prevent the spread of disease you should always quarantine new fish for at least seven days. This will ensure that the new fish do not pass an existing illness on to your other fish.

A quick and easy way to ensure that the water in your hospital tank stays clean and clear is to use an EcoBio-Stone. EcoBio-Stones are made from porous volcanic rock and cement block and they are infused with nutrients and beneficial bacteria designed to keep your tank healthy. Once introduced into your tank, these beneficial bacteria will multiply and work to speed up the nitrogen cycle, keeping your tank water clean and clear. Not only do EcoBi0-Block products help keep your tank healthy, they also reduce the amount of routine maintenance required.

No matter how careful you are in caring for your aquarium fish, the chances are good that you will eventually experience the outbreak of some kind of disease. By acting quickly in setting up and utilizing a hospital tank, however, you can effectively curtail the spread of this disease. Learning how to set up a hospital tank, and then putting that knowledge to use, is a simple way to ensure that your sick fish recover quickly and your other fish do not fall ill.

Aquarium Substrate

When it comes to setting up your aquarium for the first time one of the most important decisions you can make is what type of substrate to use. Many first-time aquarium hobbyists do not even realize that they have a choice beyond natural or colored gravel. While gravel serves its purpose well as an aquarium substrate, there are other options and some of these options have additional benefits for your tank. If you plan to keep live aquarium plants in your tank it is especially important for you to choose a substrate wisely.

Different Types of Substrates

Gravel : As one of the most readily available types of substrate, gravel is also one of the most popular. Not only is gravel easy to find and inexpensive to purchase but it comes in a variety of shapes and sizes which makes it a great option for hobbyists who want to customize their tank. Another benefit of gravel substrate is that it can be relatively easy to clean – you can simply remove it from the tank and rinse it in warm tap water until the water runs clear. Gravel can also serve as a base for the growth of beneficial bacteria but it does not provide any nutrients to support the growth of live aquarium plants.

Sand: Sea sand is not recommended for freshwater aquariums but it is popular for use in marine aquariums. This type of sand often contains impurities which can cloud the water and it may also contain pieces of shell or coral that can raise the pH in the tank. Play sand, however, makes an excellent substrate for freshwater aquariums because it has been sterilized and requires less-frequent cleaning than aquarium gravel. Aragonite is another popular type of sand substrate that is useful in buffering pH levels in saltwater aquariums.

Vermiculate: This substance is a substrate composed of the minerals aluminum, iron and magnesium. This substrate has a high cation exchange rate which helps aquarium plants to utilize nutrients. Vermiculate is an excellent substrate for planted tanks because it releases nutrients over a long period of time which negates the use of fertilizers. The best way to use this substrate is as a lower layer on the bottom of the tank covered or mixed with a layer of gravel.

Laterite: Laterite is a type of porous clay, often reddish in color, which can be used as a substrate in freshwater aquariums. This type of substrate attracts and holds nutrients, storing them until they can be utilized by aquarium plants. Like vermiculate, this substrate is best used as a lower layer in the home aquarium, covered by a layer of sand or gravel.

Tips for Using Aquarium Substrate

Do not think you need to limit yourself to one particular type of substrate. If you have a planted tank it is wise to combine several types of substrate, like vermiculate and laterite, with gravel or another substrate in order to provide the necessary nutrients. In conjunction with the right substrate, introducing an EcoBio-Stone is a great way to keep your tank clean and healthy. EcoBio-Block products are made from porous volcanic cement that has been infused with beneficial bacteria. Once introduced into your tank, these bacteria multiply and help to keep your tank water clear and odor-free which results in less maintenance on your part and a healthier environment for your fish.