Aquarium Care and EcoBio-Block

Planted Nano Aquarium

For the fish-lover, there is nothing as beautiful and peaceful as an aquarium. It brightens up any room in which it is placed, as well as giving the owner a low-maintenance pet. However, not everyone has the space for a large tank. For these people, there is the option of purchasing a smaller aquarium, anywhere from 1 to 15 gallons. Although this size of tank, otherwise known as a “nano aquarium”, is harder to maintain, it is still a good choice for many people. They just need to remember a few simple things. The most important thing to keep in mind about a small aquarium is not to let it get overcrowded. Keep the fish small and don’t put too many in the tank. Otherwise, it will be difficult to maintain the water quality. Also, take into account the fact that smaller amounts of water change temperature more quickly, which can be stressful for fish. Therefore, try to place your nano aquarium somewhere that keeps a constant temperature year round. And remember that even a small tank can weigh a lot when full, so put it somewhere where it won’t need to be moved. In a small tank, water quality can decrease very quickly. It is therefore important to test it every day and change 10-20% of the water as often as twice a week. While doing these changes, vacuum a section of the gravel. If you are busy or just don’t want the hassle of changing your water so often, you could try EcoBio-Stone S. Simply place the stone in the water and it will keep your water clear and healthy for years with beneficial bacteria, which keep the water in the aquarium perfectly balanced by breaking down the toxic ammonia and nitrite from fish waste and uneaten food, and re-supplying trace minerals from the stone. Additionally, be sure to change your filter regularly or else it may leak toxins into the water. If you do notice an issue, attend to it quickly. In a nano aquarium, small problems multiply rapidly. If you wait even one day to take care of them, you may find that your entire system has crashed Another important factor to be considered with a small tank is the oxygen level. One way to keep it high is to agitate the surface of the water with a small filter. For even more oxygen, put live plants in your tank instead of artificial ones. However, be sure to choose ones that don’t require a lot of light or you may find your water temperature increasing too much. Finally, do not overfeed the fish in your nano aquarium. This can cause poor water quality and place stress on your fish. If you remember to do all of these things and use a time-released water maintenance product such as EcoBio-Stone you will be able to enjoy keeping fish even if you have limited space.

Low Maintenance Aquarium with EcoBio-Stone L

Many pet owners refer to their animal companions as their children because just like youngsters, pets require care that can sometimes be tough and time-consuming. And just like other pets, aquarium fish demand and deserve considerable attention in terms of feeding, maintaining optimum habitats, and addressing health concerns.

Maintaining aquariums, however, does not have to be tedious. With a little foresight, the right equipment, and some helpful water quality innovations, fishkeeping can be a wonderful and rewarding experience. Here are tips on how to keep a low maintenance aquarium:

1. Bigger is better. Small aquariums are harder to maintain than large aquariums for the simple reason that a small quantity of water is much easier to pollute. This means a small tank must be monitored constantly and quickly attended to as soon as water quality is even slightly compromised
2. Location, location, location. The best place for an aquarium is where it does not receive direct sunlight, is not exposed to drafts or heating/cooling appliances, and is close to a water source. Sunlight promotes algae bloom; therefore, additional maintenance. Exposure to drafts and proximity to heating or cooling appliances can affect the temperature integrity of the aquarium and cause illness and death to the fish community. The ideal location keeps the tank stable and trouble-free. And being close to a water source minimizes the effort of lugging buckets of water across the living room or down the hall, and ruining carpet or wood floors in the process.
3. The right tools for the job. A stable aquarium environment relies on the efficiency of its support equipment—the overhead lights, filtration systems, heaters, and aerators. Sufficient lighting should automatically turn on and off at designated time intervals to optimize plant growth and the fish’s day/night cycles. Filtration systems should have adequate flow rates and filter media to handle the bio-load. Heaters and aeration systems should provide the right temperature and oxygenation levels in the tank. Efficient and adequate support systems are tools that help optimize habitat quality and avoid emergency and extraneous maintenance routines.
4. Compatibility is key. Compatibility is about fish living harmoniously together. It’s also about fish living in the appropriate size and type of environment. Keeping fish, that are not compatible with their tank parameters or their tank mates, upsets not just the health of the fishes but also the stability and integrity of the aquarium, leading to serious maintenance issues.
5. The invisible component: Bacteria. The success of fishkeeping is highly dependent on the nitrifying bacteria that process the fish’s waste matter into non-toxic form to keep a healthy aquarium environment. An innovative aquarium product that ensures the prolific growth of large colonies of beneficial bacteria is called EcoBio-Block Family Products. Mineral-rich volcanic stones from Japan, EcoBio-Blocks are embedded with the “bacillus subtilis natto”, beneficial bacteria that actively multiply every half hour, degrading organic matter and keeping the aquarium clear and odor-free for years.

Aquariums can be relatively low maintenance if the right conditions are in place. Keeping fish, or any pet for the matter, can occasionally be demanding, but with the help of the right equipment and novel solutions like EcoBio-Block, taking care of finned friends can always be fun and fulfilling.

Aquarium with Green Algae

Of all the irritating and unpleasant things that can happen to an aquarist, nothing is more likely to ruin his disposition and destroy his faith in the essentially benign purposes of nature than green water, particularly when it occurs, as it usually does, in a tank he is especially proud of or for some reason wants to watch closely.

The writer recalls vividly his own initial experience with this condition. He observed one morning that the water in his prize aquarium had lost its usual transparency. The next day it had a slightly green tinge. By the end of the week the contents of the tank had completely disappeared in a fog of pea soup, which the strongest light would not pierce. Hoping the condition was temporary and would clear itself up, he postponed doing anything about it, as the tank was a large one and cleaning it out would be no small job.

Finally deciding that further waiting was hopeless, he drew off all the water he could without removing about a hundred and fifty fish and replaced it with clear water. The improvement that resulted lasted only a few hours, and three days later the condition was worse than ever.

On the advice of more experienced friends the light was then cut down. The only result, after forty-eight hours, was to bring the fish to the surface gasping for air. Salt was added, likewise on the advice of friends. Effect-none. Other suggested remedies were tried without any improvement whatever, and finally the tank had to be cleaned out completely, washed, replanted and gotten off to a new start.

Following this experience an investigation was made which disclosed the following interesting facts:
Water everywhere in indoor aquariums as well as outdoor ponds, etc., is constantly receiving air borne spores of algae, yeasts, molds and other bacteria. When the water contains appreciable percentages of dissolved or suspended organic matter, the spores develop into bacteria, which break down this matter into its component salts. These salts are the food of plants, and when there is sufficient actively growing plant life in the aquarium the salts are absorbed by the plants practically as fast as they are formed. Under these conditions an aquarium is “balanced” and the water remains sweet and clear indefinitely.

When, however, the salts referred to are formed faster than the plants can absorb them, the algae spores (which in effect are microscopic plant seeds) find a foothold and tiny microscopic plants which swim about in the water develop in prodigious numbers. These algae take up the excess salts and keep the water sweet, but unfortunately they also create an unsightly appearance. Moreover they compete with the higher plants in the aquarium, robbing them of both food and light. In time the higher plants will succumb, leaving the algae in full possession.

It will be seen therefore that the development of green water arises in the first place from an unbalanced condition in the aquarium. The decay and dissolution of an undue quantity of uneaten food, dead snails, fish, plant leaves, excrement, etc., leads to a high bacterial content (indicated by cloudy or ill smelling water) which produces more food than can be consumed by the plant life present in the tank. The algae step in and the tank becomes green.

Cutting down the light kills the algae, removing the effect without touching the cause. This is true of any other remedy which merely kills the algae. The sudden death and rapid decomposition of a quantity of algae may foul the tank and kill the fish. The only logical, safe and permanent remedy for green water is to reduce the amount of decomposing organic matter in the tank or increase the number of plants. This means:

1. Find out whether the excess is caused by too many fish.
2. If not, watch your feeding and siphon off the bottom dirt more frequently.

Close attention and careful monitoring of your tank conditions should keep your aquarium clear and algae free. Products that increase beneficial bacteria in your tank, like the EcoBio-Block will help to keep your tank water “balanced” for 1.5 to 2 years and are added protection against “algae bloom”.

One of the biggest challenges for aquarium owners is an outbreak of single celled organisms called cyanobacteria. They are casually referred to as blue-green algae because they are typically bluish green in color (although sometimes black or red) and aquatic; they are, in fact, microscopic bacteria that, when prolific, form into shiny sheets that look like algae.

Cyanobacteria also act like algae because they create their own food through photosynthesis. Given enough light and nutrients in the water, cyanobacteria can cause a bacterial bloom that can lead to major problems in the aquarium.

A cyanobacterial bloom may be free-floating greenish brown particles that make the water look hazy. The bacteria may also colonize into ugly films of slimy looking growth covering rocks and plants in the aquarium. Uncontrolled, a bacterial bloom can gather into foam or scum on the surface of the tank and give off a nasty rotten smell. At any rate, the proliferation of cyanobacteria is an indication that the nutrients that feed it – organic matter and waste products – are excessive in the water, which can only mean that the fish are in grave danger.

Cyanobacteria problems can be prevented with good fishkeeping conditions and attentive maintenance. In the event that a cyanobacterial bloom occurs, several steps can be taken, the first of which is to reduce the amount of light exposure in the tank. Because cyanobacteria thrive through photosynthesis, depriving them of light curtails their growth.

Together with reduced lighting, an effective way to fight cyanobacteria is consecutive water changes. Water changes up to 20% every three to four days will reduce the concentration of phosphates and waste material that feed the cyanobacteria. Test kits for nitrates and cyanobacteria are helpful in determining when healthy levels have been achieved. And to prevent future problems, it is best to maintain the aquarium with just the right number of fish, highly efficient filtration, and no over-feedings.

At times, though, cyanobacterial bloom can be unrelenting enough to defy light deprivation and water changes. Some fishkeepers resort to antibacterial chemicals, which could be equally detrimental to fishes and plants. A greener, more eco-friendly solution is the EcoBio-Block Family Products, originally designed and currently being used to degrade toxins and pollutants from lakes, streams, and reservoirs in many Asian countries.

EcoBio-Blocks, EcoBio-Rocks, EcoBio-Stones, and EcoBio-Pebbles are porous, mineral-rich volcanic stones from Japan. They are embedded with prolific beneficial bacteria (“bacillus subtilis natto”) that can actively multiply every half hour into colonies that degrade organic matter and nitrify waste products in the water. Because they degrade the organic matter that feeds cyanobacteria, the internet radio show Pet Fish Talk feels strongly that EcoBio-Block helped clear up their cyanobacteria problem. (click hear the Special Pet Fish Talk titled “Cyanobacteria”)

Cyanobacteria cannot be totally eliminated from the aquarium. Overgrowth and its toxic consequences, however, can be prevented with optimum water conditions through diligent aquarium maintenance together with proven eco-friendly solutions like the EcoBio-Block products.

by Ruby Bayan

Community Fish Tank

Here’s a candid question from my friend Bob: “I just got a 20-gallon tank and was thinking about putting in about a dozen Neon Tetras, six to eight Mollies, a Plecostomus and perhaps introducing two to three Angelfish afterwards. Is this an acceptable plan?”

My answer was, “Bob, you’re inviting disaster into your aquarium! You will be defying at least four major guidelines in the book of ‘good fishkeeping’!”

Defiance 1: “The one-inch-per-gallon rule is baloney!”

Although not a strict rule, the one-inch-of-fish-per-gallon-of-water guideline is often a takeoff point for fishkeeping hobbyists aspiring for a stable bioload. However, factors like efficient filtration, fast-growing fishes, and aggressive or territorial breeds totally overhaul this “rule” giving rise to setups with more than one inch of fish per gallon, or with just a pair of two-inch fish for a 25-gallon tank.

In Bob’s planned 20-gallon setup, 12 Neons, 8 Mollies, 1 Pleco, and 3 Angels, even if they’re all less than an inch each, will surely overload his tank habitat, no matter how efficient his filtration is. But let’s say that on top of a truly efficient filter, he can be diligent enough to make regular water changes, his next problem will be what water parameters to maintain.

Defiance 2: “What natural habitat? I’ll give them their natural habitat!”

One of the primary objectives of fishkeepers is to provide a habitat that is closest to what the fishes have in the wild. The community that Bob is looking at putting together cannot occur naturally because the fishes he has chosen do not thrive in the same water conditions.

Although all the chosen fishes can be made accustomed to a common water temperature (around 77 degrees F), Neons prefer water that is slightly soft, with pH between 5.0 and 7.0. Mollies, on the other hand, live in slightly hard water with pH of 7.5 to 8.5.

In other words, either the Neons or the Mollies will suffer stress and eventually fall ill if brought together in one community tank because the water composition is outside the range ideal for them.

So, if Bob removes the Mollies from the equation and maintains a water composition ideal for the rest of the fishes, will the Neons, Pleco, and Angelfish be fine together? The answer is, again, “no.”

Defiance 3: “They don’t look aggressive to me!”

Angelfishes belong to the notoriously cranky group of cichlids. Highly territorial and potentially aggressive, Angels (an oxymoron?) are known to be “stealth” attackers. Swimming casually and almost in a delicately gentle manner, they can snap at a prey in a flash and swallow whatever fits their mouths. Full-grown Angels are known to feast on Neons.

So, maybe Bob can chuck the idea of adding Angels later on. Will his tank be safe now with the dozen Neons and one Plecostomus? Unfortunately, the Pleco may pose a whole new problem.

Defiance 4: “They’re just sooo cute!”

The Plecostomus is one of the fastest growing catfishes in captivity. A “cute” three-inch Pleco can double in length in six months and grow to a “horrendous” adult size of close to two feet in a couple of years. Their phenomenal growth is accompanied by their equally phenomenal rate of excretion that can easily overwork standard filtration systems. A Pleco will, therefore, be okay in a 20-gallon tank only in its first few months as a juvenile.

In other words, Bob’s 20-gallon tank is down to just a dozen Neons. That’s no fun, right? Well, a 20-gallon tank can’t really support a lot of fishes, and frankly, losing some to not having an acceptable plan is my definition of “no fun.”
Bob can still have a fun tank by choosing a combination of community fishes that are attractive together and thrive in a habitat that will remain stable indefinitely.

Here’s one suggestion: to join his Neons, he can add a pair of Rams (Ramirezis may be cichlids but they’re one of the more sedate ones), and instead of the Pleco he can choose a pair of Corys (corydoras) or Otos (otocinclus) that remain small even as adults.

Add to that some diligent monitoring, regular water changes (or better yet, an EcoBio-Block that conditions water so that changes are hardly necessary), and efficient equipment, and Bob can be well on his way to implementing a truly acceptable plan.